92-94 Point Wines

wines

The 2019 Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 1er Cru, matured in 80% new oak, has a very detailed, focused bouquet of blackberry, briar, raspberry jam and light orange peel aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly tarry opening, a smear of dark chocolate combining nicely with the dark berry fruit, but it is unapologetically backward and surly on the finish compared with the Echézeaux or the Vosne Les Chaumes, so give it some serious cellaring.Vinous Media | 93-95 VM(Domaine Georges Noëllat Vosne-Romanée "Les Beaux Monts" 1er Cru Red) A ripe but cool and even spicier nose offers up notes of anise and hoisin on the pretty aromas of black pinot fruit and violet nuances. The sleek, refined and beautifully detailed middle weight flavors are not especially dense though there is enough sap to buffer the moderately firm supporting tannins on the balanced finish. This isn’t quite as vibrant as the Petits Monts but it’s attractive in a riper fashion. (Drink starting 2029)Burghound | 89-92 BH

ean-Nicolas Méo’s 2020 Clos Vougeot is really, really refined this year. The wine delivers a complex and very pure aromatic constellation of red and black cherries, plums, dark chocolate, gamebird, violets, a touch of fresh nutmeg, complex soil tones and a nice foundation of new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a lovely core of sappy fruit, excellent mineral undertow and grip, ripe, buried tannins and impeccable balance on the long, suave and classy finish. Fine, fine juice. (Drink between 2035 - 2095)John Gilman | 94+ JGApart from 2017, Jean-Nicolas Méo only makes one commercially available cuvée of his substantial holding of Clos de Vougeot. Even purple throughout. This is a sturdy, weighty, richly dark fruited, multi-layered wine, with great potential for the long term. Ripe but not exaggerated. Tasted: December 2021.Jasper Morris | 94-97 JMThe 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is very promising, unfurling in the glass with aromas of wild berries, cherries, orange rind, potpourri and loamy soil. Full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, it’s seamless and complete, with superb depth at the core and a long, resonant finish. It will be fascinating to compare with the 2019 rendition in two decades’ time.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru had to shake off a little reduction before revealing its minerally blackberry, raspberry and cassis fruit. Wilted rose petal emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, nicely focused yet surprisingly strict and linear at the moment. This will gain "shoulders" once in bottle.Vinous Media | 92-95 VMDiscreet but still perceptible wood-suffuses the ripe aromas of black cherry, currant, newly turned earth and a floral top note. There is a lovely sense of underlying tension to the palate coating and nicely detailed medium weight plus flavors that offers excellent depth and persistence on the relatively refined if youthfully austere finale. This is more structured than it usually is and is a wine that is going to require at least a decade of aging first.Burghound | 92-94 BH

Aromas of raspberries, cassis, forest floor, espresso toast, spices and orange zest introduce the 2021 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, a medium to full-bodied, ample and layered wine with lively acids, ripe tannins and a broad, saline, peony-inflected finish. This is a beautiful middle-weight in the making.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2021 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru sported quite hefty reduction on the nose that made it difficult to read during my visit at the Domaine. The palate is medium-bodied with a smooth, slightly lactic entry, powdery texture, tight and firm. Maybe not quite the complexity or amplitude of Dugat’s other cuvées on the finish, but it will evolve with time in bottle. A bit stoic at the momentVinous Media | 92-94 VMFirm reduction. The round and seductively textured medium-bodied flavors are not especially dense, but they do offer excellent length on the balanced finish. As it usually does at this point, this will need to add depth, but more should almost certainly develop as the Dugat Charmes has an excellent aging track record.Burghound | 91-93 BH

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru, the usual blend of Crapiots and Perrières, has a beautifully defined bouquet with dark cherries, bergamot and wild hedgerow, very focused and classy. The palate is medium-bodied with a powdery texture, just a very small reduction at play, though that does not disguise the structure and substance on the finish. Wonderful.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMWafting from the glass with notes of smoky berries, sweet soil tones, spices and orange zest, the 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru is medium to full-bodied, lively and elegant, with bright acids and sweet, powdery tannins, concluding with a mineral finish. Once again, it’s the usual blend chez Dugat of premiers crus Craipillot and Perrières.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RPHere too the nose is firmly reduced. More interesting are the delicious and vibrant middleweight flavors that possess slightly better density while delivering solid length on the punchy and mildly austere finale. Good mid-term development potential here.Burghound | 90-92 BH

There are only three barrels of the 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques, but its quality is some compensation for the lack of quantity. Exhibiting complex aromas of raspberries and cassis mingled with sweet spices, orange zest and smoke, it’s medium to full-bodied, layered and fleshy, with excellent concentration, powdery tannins and lively acids.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPThe 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru shows a bit of reduction on the nose, yet it still offers quite delineated, brambly red fruit and conspicuous crushed rock aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with tensile tannins, strict and what you might call as "vertical" in style. This feels as if it is keeping everything under wraps on the finish. Very fine.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMFirm reduction is all that is discernible though there is again excellent vibrancy and freshness to the relatively supple, if more concentrated, medium weight flavors that flash evident minerality on the lingering and moderately austere finish that firms up noticeably as it sits on the palate. Dugat almost never misses with this wine and the 2021 vintage continues that streak.Burghound | 91-93 BH

An exuberantly fresh nose of spicy purple fruit, exotic tea, violet and hints of cinnamon and sandalwood are trimmed in discreet but not invisible wood. There is both good richness and punch to the supple medium-bodied flavors that conclude in a lightly austere but impressively long and harmonious finale. This could use better depth but like the VRBM, the Rouget Ech has an excellent track record for aging well.Burghound | 92-94 BHThe 2021 Echézeaux Grand Cru, aged in 100% new oak, is tasted from two barrels as one is heavily reduced, while the other shows fine delineation: crushed strawberry, wild mint and loam. The palate is heavily reduced at first, quite dense and broad-shouldered, black cherries mixed with cassis, a little chocolaty towards the finish.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

Although this is slightly closed on the initial attack, there is a crisply refreshing high-toned fruit character (cranberry, raspberry, pomegranate), with notes of peony and spice. The texture is fresh, tannic and grippy, and the compact, expressive fruit has an admirably chiselled character. The wine is from 75-year-old vines planted at the top of the slope above Richebourg and Cros Parantoux — the ’baby Richebourg’ according to Anne Gros. This wine will drink well from three to five years after the vintage.Decanter | 93 DECThe 2022 Vosne-Romanée Les Barreaux, which Paul Gros said the family considers a Premier Cru close to Cros Parantoux and Richebourg, is based on poor shallow limestone soils. The nose takes time to open and evolves lovely raspberry and wild strawberry scents laced with oyster shells. The palate is medium-bodied with good substance on the entry. This is more structured than you might presuppose. It has a silver bead of acidity, and the finish feels pixelated for a Village Cru. Bon vin.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMA solid core of ruby purple. What a beautiful nose! Global warming says a friendly hello to cooler sites such as Les Barreaux. More oak this year because of the shortage of one year old barrels, and that shows a touch at the back at the moment but will all integrate. Very lively and extremely fine, with a greater depth of fruit than the Chambolle. The pinot fin plant selection is showing its class here. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted: November 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMIn contrast to the expressiveness of the prior wines, here the nose is firmly reduced and reveals nothing. More interesting are the fresh, vibrant and beautifully textured medium-bodied flavors that already possess solid depth and very fine length on the balanced if firmly structured finale. Lovely.Burghound | 89-91 BH

The 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin La Marie, named after the lieu-dit close to the Château de Gevrey, has a fragrant bouquet with red cherries, wild strawberries and touches of quince, vivacious and beautifully focused. Saline in the mouth with plenty of energy, gradually building towards a well-proportioned, slightly peppery finish that might deceive you into thinking there were stems in the mix. A level up from the previous vintages.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMThe 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin La Marie is ampler and fuller than the regular Gevrey, unfurling in the glass with notes of dark berries, cherries, warm spices and sweet soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, rich and layered, with a succulent core of fruit and powdery tannins, it’s built to age with grace.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RPThis is the one wine in the range that was reduced and it’s enough to push the underlying fruit to the background. More interesting are the bigger-bodied and more concentrated flavors that brim with dry extract on the sneaky long and well-balanced finale. This is presently very backward, indeed it’s a bit grumpy, yet the potential for extended cellaring is clearly present. If you have the patience, and can find it, don’t hesitate.Burghound | 90-92 BH

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Champerrier is very pure and sensual on the nose, with generous red cherry and crushed strawberry fruit tones that envelop the senses. The palate is well balanced with a gentle grip, but there is more energy and greater frisson toward the finish than the Vieilles Vignes, which beckons you back for another sip. This is excellent.Vinous Media | 93 VMHere too there is just enough wood to merit pointing out suffusing the compositionally similar, if less expressive, nose. The succulent and rounded medium weight flavors still manage to retain good detail on the solidly powerful, youthfully austere and moderately rustic finish that is both compact and robust. This is an excellent Gevrey villages that is worth your interest.Burghound | 90 BH

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru has an expressive bouquet with pure red cherry, raspberry and strawberry fruit tones bounding from the glass with nascent energy. The oak is neatly integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. It has more depth than the Lavaux—a little broader in the mouth. This is very harmonious toward the finish with greater backbone. It’s excellent.Vinous Media | 94 VMAn even crimson ruby colour. The fruit is more immediate than the Ruchottes. This is seamless across the palate and leaves a gorgeously balanced feeling of little red fruits at the finish, entirely covering the tannins, which in any case are refined. There is a little minerality too as befits Cazetiers. Really a lovely stylish finale. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Nov 2024.Jasper Morris | 94-96 JMSubtle wood influence can be found on the spicy and ripe aromas of poached plum and floral nuances, especially violet. The sleek, delineated and powerful flavors are a mix of the refinement and minerality of the Estournelles St. Jacques with the power and muscle of the Lavaut St. Jacques, all wrapped in a more complex, longer and more structured finale. This is excellent and warmly recommended.Burghound | 93 BH