92-94 Point Wines

wines

The elegant red from Toro, the 2019 Aciano was produced with the grapes from a three-hectare plot of old ungrafted vines planted in 1919 on sand, sandstone and limestone soils. It’s aromatic, perfumed and elegant, with moderate ripeness (for the zone), 14% alcohol and very good freshness and balance, coming through as fine-boned and medium-bodied with very fine tannins. It fermented with 100% full clusters that were foot trodden daily during the fermentation with indigenous yeasts and then only wetting the cap, with a soft and very long maceration that lasted some 45 to 60 days. It matured in 500- and 800-liter oak barrels and 1,500- and 2,100-liter oak foudres for 12 months, followed by a further 12 months in concrete. Delicious and super elegant Toro! 8,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in February 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPA touch of nice funk and freshly turned soil adds interest to the aromas of salted plums, peppercorns and cherries. Quite honest, with a distinctive texture to the palate. Naturally juicy and fresh, with firm tannins that tightly coat the palate. Slight bitterness at the end. Tinta de toro. From organically grown grapes. Drink now.James Suckling | 92 JS

The 2019 Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard is one of the more aromatic wines in this range. It is also incredibly tight at this stage. Crushed rocks, dried flowers, mint, earthiness white pepper and sweet red cherry are some of the many notes that grace this decidedly sinewy, taut Pinot. More exotic spice, blood orange and dried herb notes emerge over time. The 2019 needs a ton of air, as such it is an easy wine to underestimate.Vinous Media | 94 VMPlum, dried strawberry and rose stem aromas. Full-bodied, layered and savory with fine tannins and a long and flavorful finish. Juicy and bright. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSShowing lighter in the glass, this bottling from 1988 vines offers dark mulberry fruit on the complex nose alongside turned earth, juniper and toasty cappuccino notes. The gamy elements are well integrated on the palate, where coffee bean, roasted plum and bay leaf extend into a caramel-kissed finish.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WERedolent of blood and cloves, brown spices and sanguine tinges, this wine is fascinating if a bit unformed. The flavors are concentrated and the spice runs deep, surrounding its core, so, if you don’t cellar this, consider decanting it an hour before pouring with a dish with melded flavors, like lamb tagine. Wine & Spirits Magazine | 93 W&SWell-proportioned, with a juicy core of black cherry and mulberry fruit flanked by judicious toast. Sleek acidity drives the finish, where red tea and spice accents fill in. Built for cellaring. Drink now through 2030. 1,936 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

This wine opens generously with layered aromas of black cherry, plum and currant, roasted coffee, unsweetened cacao, crushed violets, vanilla and nutmeg. Driven by energetic acidity, the palate is tied together by firm tannins, also integrating a glycerin-like, rounded body from the alcohol. Find additional notes of black pepper, star anise, clove and an animalistic umami in the background.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

Aromas of pear, hazelnuts, crisp green apple, fresh peach and orange oil, framed by a touch of youthful reduction, preface Leflaive’s 2019 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières, a medium to full-bodied, ample and incisive wine with a fleshy and enveloping core of fruit that’s underpinned by a tangy spine of acidity that animates the long, saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru has a little more amplitude compared to the Clavaillon, scents of Granny Smith apples and dewy meadow on a cold morning. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, a little more weight and girth than the Clavaillon, not to mention a touch more salinity and race on the persistent finish. Excellent. Closure: Diam 30Vinous Media | 94 VMLeflaive farms three parcels in Folatières totalling 1.26 hectares. The site has very little soil, and the vines are almost right on the limestone. This precocious site is often the first to be picked. In 2019 it delivered a wine that shows ripe aromas of passionfruit and ripe Cavaillon melon. The modest use of new oak (20%) assures purity of fruit. There is still enough acidity here to balance, and the wine is extremely seductive yet also extremely ageworthy. Ideally for mid-term drinking.Decanter | 94 DECHere the beautifully layered nose flirts with the exotic in the form of white and yellow peach, dried apricot, jasmine tea and a similar array of spice wisps. The ripe yet restrained and more obviously mineral-driven flavors possess excellent depth and persistence on the very lemon tinged finale. This too is noticeably firmer and should reward a decade plus of keeping.Burghound | 92-94 BHFine pure fresh lemon colour. A wonderfully clear nose with a depth of fruit and enough precision. The little touches of yellow fruit which this vintage gives. Ripe citrus notes, then more of a white fruit finish. Even just a touch of grapefruit. An interesting complex wine which avoids being too juicy. Tasted: May 2022.Jasper Morris | 94 JMA lean, bracing white, revealing floral, lemon, green apple, sour plum and baking spice flavors. Racy, finding its balance in the end and staying long, detailed on the finish. Best from 2023 through 2028. 65 cases made, 13 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The 2019 Laforge has really filled out nicely. Black cherry, plum, chocolate, tobacco, licorice and lavender build beautifully with some aeration. The 2019 is sumptuous, bold and racy, Laforge is an absolute joy to taste today. This flamboyant, racy Saint-Émilion will be a jewel to drink now and over the next few years.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe 2019 Château Laforge is more up-front and charming, with medium-bodied aromas and flavors of savory red and black fruits, leafy herbs, iron, and tobacco. It has good acidity, ripe tannins, and, as with all of the releases from Malthus, is beautifully balanced. Drink this already complex, layered, seamless 2019 over the coming 15+ years.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDLots of lovely fruit and freshness in this red with blackberry and cherry character, medium body and a round, juicy finish. Very attractive already. Drink after 2023.James Suckling | 92 JSThis is a fine wine with great black fruits and an impressive density. Spice and ripe tannins make for a wine for aging. Drink from 2025. Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEMedium to deep garnet-purple colored, the 2019 Laforge opens with notions of pencil shavings, rose hip tea, crushed rocks and cedar chest over a core of warm black and red plums, boysenberries and spice cake. The medium to full-bodied palate is charged with freshness and energy, offering finely grained tannins to support the red and black fruit layers, finishing long and fragrant.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RP

A well-rounded, easily enjoyable sparkling rosé, this offers a persistent fine-bubbled mousse structure, resulting in an overall smooth drinking experience. You will find nuanced aromas and flavors of citrus blossom, grapefruit, watermelon, white strawberries, dewy morning grass, and a wet stone minerality, with just a hint of those autolytic toasty notes. The finish lingers with additional florals of pink roses and fresh daisies.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEMore savory than sweet and wonderfully complex, the 2019 Brut Rosé North Coast bursts from the glass with toasty notes of fresh baguette and almonds, giving way to crushed apples and gingery spice. This rushes the palate with an elegant bead of silken bubbles. It is creamy yet energetic, and mineral-tinged orchard fruits add further tension. The 2019 leaves the senses wonderfully refreshed through the long, crunchy finale, as white strawberry and spice cookie notes fade. The Brut Rosé is a pleasure bomb, yet it’s wonderfully balanced throughout. - Eric GuidoVinous Media | 92 VMOffers pretty peach and strawberry flavors and a luscious, lingering texture as this takes on spice and orange peel accents on the crisp yet plush finish. Drink now. 19,350 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

This has chocolate, cedar and walnuts as well as some currant aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied with some lovely fruit and juiciness. 55.8% cabernet sauvignon, 38.8% merlot and 5.4% petit verdot. Attractive now but another year or two will make it even better.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2019 Pauillac is a serious wine. Dark cherry, plum, gravel, incense, licorice and pomegranate are all dialed up in this wonderfully deep, fleshy Pauillac. Deep and resonant, with fine balance, the 2019 captures all the natural radiance of the year. This is really quite stellar and delicious. A recent bottle of the 2009 reminded me how pleasurable the Latour Pauillac can be.Vinous Media | 93 VMA rocking little Pauillac, the 2019 Le Pauillac De Château Latour has ripe, upfront aromatics of red and black currants, smoke tobacco, and spicy wood that carry to a medium-bodied, supple, layered, nicely balanced wine that has enough tannins to evolve for 20 years or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 92 JDThe 2019 Le Pauillac de Château Latour is another impressive rendition of this bottling from Latour. Offering up notes of sweet berry fruit, plums, spices and pencil shavings, it’s medium to full-bodied, rich and fleshy, with a ripe core of fruit, lively acids and powdery tannins. This year, it includes some declassified lots from Les Forts de Latour. I’m sure it will show even better when it’s released in a few years.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90+ RPEvident ripeness to the fruits here, giving pretty high open berry aromatics even at this early stage. This is a frank and gourmet style of Pauillac de Latour and will be an early-to-medium term drinker with excellent potential for getting a taste of one of the few unquestionably good quality 3rd wines of Bordeaux. The hot summer meant there were patches of water stress on the sandier soils outside of the main L’Enclos de Latour, leading to more 3rd wine than usual, and it accounts for 25% of production in 2019, from unusually high yields of 44.7hl/ha. 72IPT.Decanter | 90 DEC

Aromas of cherries, cacao and dried flowers follow through to a medium body with fine tannins and a fresh and savory finish. Better in a year or two.James Suckling | 93 JS

Made with organically farmed grapes, the Collosorbo 2019 Brunello has inviting aromas of plum, new leather, lavender and Mediterranean scrub. On the concentrated, velvety palate, tightly knit, close-grained tannins envelop black cherry extract, liquor soaked prune, licorice and tobacco before a mocha finish. It’s delicious but also rather one-dimensional. Drink 2027–2034. Abv: 15% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KOThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a bouquet that blends savory herbs and worn leather with crushed wild berries. It’s softly textured and round, with a pretty inner sweetness and juicy red fruits cascading under rosy inner florals. The 2019 tapers off long and gently tannic, as a bump of residual acidity maintains an energetic feel.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 2019 Luigi Einaudi Barbaresco is a little closed at first, but some notes of cherry, chalk and smoke emerge. It is firmly structured with lots of tannins - prominent but not harsh - and a fine, silty texture. The dark cherry fruit is hidden in the dense structure but persists on the finish along with lots of fresh juiciness. It has a quite long and angular "Giacometti" shape to the wine, and a smoky, chalky austerity. It needs another 2-3 years to begin to unravel but it should keep for 20 years plus.The Wine Independent | 94 TWIA very subtle and pretty 2019 Barbaresco with plum and orange peel, as well as floral undertones. Medium body, fine tannins and an attractive finish. Subtle and rather elegant. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 92 JS

The 2019 Barolo opens to good balance between tart berry fruit and secondary aromas of toasted spice. Spaced out nicely in between are floral tones, crushed stone and rusty nail. The wine shows rich concentration and lots of dark fruit, yet it also gives room for the more nuanced and fleeting side of Nebbiolo. There is a salty or mineral note that adds a feeling of dryness to the polished finish. Some 15,000 bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPAlessandria’s 2019 Barolo is gorgeous. Sweet dark cherry, kirsch, cinnamon, rose petal, mint and orange peel lead into a core of soft, open-knit fruit. Silky tannins and soft contours add to its overall appeal. The aromatics alone are beguiling, but it is the wine’s overall balance that is most impressive of all.Vinous Media | 94 VM

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino wafts up with a dark and dusty bouquet as dried flowers and crushed stone give way to red currants. It’s soft textured with tactile mineral tones up front, adding a crunchy character to the tart wild berry fruits within. The 2019 finishes long and staining, leaving a tinge of balsamic spice and a liquid stone sensation that mellows over a bed of fine tannins. This is a brighter style for Mocali, and I like it quite a bit.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe Mocali 2019 Brunello opens with earthy, enticing aromas of new leather, blue flower, baked plum and forest floor. On the enveloping palate, tightly woven, close-grained tannins accompany fleshy black cherry, licorice, orange rind and nutmeg before a firm finish. Drink 2027–2034. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KOThis is a richly textured Sangiovese with sweet plum, cooked cherry, spice and crème de cassis. The Mocali 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is a wine focused mostly on texture and mouthfeel. It imparts nice weight to the palate with fine, chalky tannins.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPStarts with black cherries, violets and bark, followed by a hint of crushed rock. Medium-bodied with stringent tannins. Still tight and a little lean now, this needs more time to soften. Better after 2025.James Suckling | 92 JS

Made with organically farmed grapes, the 2019 Brunello from Villa I Cipressi is a fantastic wine, with classic Sangiovese aromas of violet, woodland berry, new leather and the barest whiff of truffle. Full-bodied and smooth, the savory palate doles out mature black cherry, blackberry, cake spice and licorice framed in firm, velvety tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it nicely balanced. Drink 2029–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KOFresh and sweet berries with some floral and matchstick character on the nose. Medium body, fine tannins and a crisp finish. From organically grown grapes. Nice now, but will age nicely. Better in a year or two.James Suckling | 92 JSDusty violet florals, cloves, chalk dust and medicinal blackberries form an intense display as the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino opens in the glass. This sweeps across the palate with lifted textures and floral-laced wild berry fruits, while hints of licorice and orange come forward toward the close. This tapers off staining and long with a slightly bitter note and gently grippy tannins that resonate.Vinous Media | 90 VM

Offering dark fruit and an articulate bouquet with elements of ripeness and balsamic herb, the Fanti 2019 Brunello di Montalcino releases its aromas in swells of licorice, dark plum, cured tobacco and sweet potting soil. In terms of palate, this Brunello delivers much of its intensity in an upfront manner with a blast of ripe fruit that fades quietly over the mid-palate. The tannins are softly integrated. This wine, with a production of 49,000 bottles, will be almost ready to drink after its release in January 2024.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPA firm and silky Brunello with some berry, cherry and cedar character, as well as meat. It’s medium-bodied and rather tight, but shows some polish. Better after 2026.James Suckling | 93 JSAromas of exotic brown spice, violet, new leather and eucalyptus form the nose Fanti’s 2019 Brunello. Intense and full-bodied, the palate delivers raspberry compote, mature cherry, cake spice and a hint of espresso. Tightly woven, close-grained tannins provide velvety support. Drink 2017–2034. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KOBalsam herbs and dark chocolate aromas give way to dried black cherries and pine shavings as the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino pulls the taster close to the glass. This is a sleek and racy effort, with cool-toned acidity and dark red fruits that flow across a silken textural wave. It finishes spicy and long, also remarkably fresh, with edgy tannins that resonate as salted licorice hints slowly taper off. The balance within is stunning, yet don’t let the giving nature of the 2019 fool you; this is a wine for the cellar.Vinous Media | 92 VMLocated near the village of Castelnuovo dell’Abate, Fanti counts 45 hectares dedicated to Sangiovese, of which just 10 are authorised for Brunello. The estate bottling comes from 20- to 30-year-old vines ranging in altitude from 150 to 450 metres. Aged in a combination of barriques and 30 hectolitre casks, the 2019 is forward and profuse in aromas. Sun-soaked oily herbs and grilled Mediterranean shrub echo the late Tuscan summer. Mint and rosemary repeat on the full-bodied, hearty palate. Tannins are mostly ripe though a slight astringency gives a pleasant tug. More rustic than elegant but this will surely have its fans.Decanter | 91 DEC

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Poggio Cerrino grumbles up from the glass with an earthy bouquet that blends crushed rocks with savory herbs, olive and clove. This displays textures of pure silk offset by cooling acidity as ripe red and black fruit slowly saturate. A bitter dark chocolate tinge develops through the close as the 2019 finishes youthfully tense and structured with fine tannins that frame the experience nicely.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe 2019 Tiezzi Vigna Poggio Cerrino is glossier and more refined than the Vigna Soccorso, offering aromas of iris, lavender, wild berry and a whiff of new leather. Linear and polished, the savory palate features juicy Morello cherry, strawberry compote, star anise and crushed mint alongside taut, fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced and lifted. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KO