92-94 Point Wines

wines

The 2019 Corton Clos-du-Roi Grand Cru offers slightly more red fruit than the other two Cortons from Dubreuil-Fontaine, and smells spicier, with touches of cumin and clove. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins. This has the finest balance and the most elegance of the three Cortons tasted, demonstrating more terroir expression toward the finish, and a prudent sprinkling of white pepper on the aftertaste. Glorious.Vinous Media | 92-94 VM(Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine Corton-Clos du Roi Grand Cru Red) Exceptionally ripe aromas include those of prune, cassis, warm earth and roasted fruit that seem a bit flat. There is much better freshness and verve on the palate of the mineral-suffused medium weight flavors that are relatively refined thanks to the fine-grained tannins shaping the firm, youthfully austere and beautifully long finish. The nose does not appeal to me though the palate impression is attractive, and the key question is how this will evolve and that is hard to predict. My rating offers the benefit of the doubt that the nose will eventually freshen. (Drink starting 2031)Burghound | 91 BH

The 2019 Beaune 1er Cru Grèves has turned out beautifully, bursting from the glass with aromas of plums, sweet berries, spices, woodsmoke and orange rind. Medium to full-bodied, ample and velvety, it’s a charming, lively wine that’s open and expressive out of the gates.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

The 2019 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is the usual blend of vineyards: two-thirds in Charmes-Chambertin itself and one-third in Mazoyères. It contains 60% whole bunch and 66% new oak. Very generous and opulent on the nose of dark cherries plus hints of baked gingerbread and clementine; this is very intense. The palate is medium-bodied with a structured opening. The Mazoyères component feels more influential than the Charmes, and the grippy, overtly saline finish does not want to let go. This will be fascinating to watch develop. I love the sense of control throughout.Vinous Media | 94-96 VM(Domaine Dugat-Py Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru Red) A markedly floral nose is quite pretty with its array of earth, liqueur-like dark berries and lovely spice wisps. There is again outstanding volume to the beautifully textured large-scaled flavors that exude a bracing salinity on the sneaky long and well-balanced if overtly austere finale that displays absolutely stunning length. Here too plenty of patience will be required. (Drink starting 2037)Burghound | 96 BHAromas of orange rind, red cherries, plums, licorice, spices and peonies introduce the 2019 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, a full-bodied, ample and layered wine that’s deep and concentrated, with a generous core of fruit, melting tannins and a long, rose-inflected finish. As ever, this is the domaine’s most immediate, sensual grand cru.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RP

The 2019 Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru has an attractive nose, more extrovert than others from this climat, displaying scents of yellow plum, pressed white flower, crushed rock and subtle Granny Smith apple. The palate is clean and fresh, a dab of bitter lemon on the entry combining neatly with the silver bead of acidity. Quite tensile toward the finish, which lingers in the mouth. This may warrant a higher score with bottle age. Very fine.Vinous Media | 92+ VM

The 2019 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru has a very pretty bouquet of yellow flowers, honeysuckle and light white truffle scents, plus a touch of flint in the background. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. This is certainly one of the more elegant Grand Crus in 2019, displaying admirable poise and a touch of spice toward the lingering finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The 2019 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Boudots 1er Cru, aged in 50% new oak, has an intense bouquet of floral and violet aromas joined by dark berry fruit and a touch of tobacco. The palate is medium-bodied and quite mineral-driven, with gentle grip and a savory, earthy, quite broody finish. This should be fascinating to watch evolve in bottle.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM(Domaine Georges Noëllat Nuits St. Georges "Les Boudots" 1er Cru Red) This is also notably ripe with its blend of plum, dark raspberry, range of spice elements and an exotic tea nuance. There is very good freshness and vibrancy to the delicious medium weight plus flavors that exude a discreet minerality on the dusty, moderately austere and firm but not rigid finale. This will need at least a few years to develop better depth and shed some of its tannic spine. (Drink starting 2029)Burghound | 89-92 BH

The 2019 Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 1er Cru, matured in 80% new oak, has a very detailed, focused bouquet of blackberry, briar, raspberry jam and light orange peel aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly tarry opening, a smear of dark chocolate combining nicely with the dark berry fruit, but it is unapologetically backward and surly on the finish compared with the Echézeaux or the Vosne Les Chaumes, so give it some serious cellaring.Vinous Media | 93-95 VM(Domaine Georges Noëllat Vosne-Romanée "Les Beaux Monts" 1er Cru Red) A ripe but cool and even spicier nose offers up notes of anise and hoisin on the pretty aromas of black pinot fruit and violet nuances. The sleek, refined and beautifully detailed middle weight flavors are not especially dense though there is enough sap to buffer the moderately firm supporting tannins on the balanced finish. This isn’t quite as vibrant as the Petits Monts but it’s attractive in a riper fashion. (Drink starting 2029)Burghound | 89-92 BH

Bursting with aromas of apples, pears, almonds, warm bread and dried fruits, the 2019 Méthode Ancestrale Une Bulle is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and concentrated, with lively acids and a pillowy mousse. It’s a touch drier than its 2018 counterpart.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

The 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre unwinds to reveal aromas of citrus oil, warm pastry, crisp green orchard fruit and vanilla pod. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and precise, it’s lively and mineral, concluding with a saline finish. Tightly wound and gently patinated by its élevage, this will develop well with time in bottle.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93+ RPThe 2019 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru, from vines on white and blue clay, has a backward nose that mixes struck flint with Granny Smith apples, suggesting old-school Chablis. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity and beautifully composed, maybe the most harmonious of Droin’s Premier Crus. A little spiciness manifests on the finish. Superb.Vinous Media | 93 VM(Domaine Jean-Paul et Benoit Droin Chablis "Montée de Tonnerre" 1er Cru White) An equally pure and elegant nose is quite different as here there is much more smoky reduction to the citrus-inflected pear and shellfish scents. The rich yet nicely restrained medium weight flavors brim with minerality and excellent detail, all wrapped in a slightly more complex finish. This is only a touch better than the Vaulorent but overall, it’s just a bit more complete. (Drink starting 2025)Burghound | 93 BH

A lifted but guarded sense of lemon zest plays on this wine’s nose, forthright at one moment, restrained the next. The palate channels concentrated but creamy lemon peel, mouthwatering in its frankness but buffered by lovely chalkiness. Lemony limestone freshness rings long after the last sip.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEThe 2019 Chablis Vau de Vey 1er Cru has an intriguing, melted candle wax and white flower nose, showing touches of apple peel and chalk dust. This seems to grow in complexity in the glass. The palate is well balanced and spicy, with a fine bead of acidity. Orange peel and touches of bitter lemon give way to a slightly oily-textured finish. This is a very engaging Vau de Vey that will be fascinating to see mature in bottle.Vinous Media | 92 VMHere the expressive nose is blessed with more evident Chablis character in the form of iodine, oyster shell and citrus along with ripe pear and apple whiffs. There is fine underlying tension to the impressive dense and stony medium weight flavors that are not especially complex, but the citrus-tined finish is refreshing plus there is enough underlying material to suggest that more depth should develop in time.Burghound | 90 BH

A ripe and generous Corton-Charlemagne with a caramelized-pear aroma, but the stony character that’s typical for the site is the dominant aspect of the wine. Serious structure here! Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSFrom holdings located in the south-facing climat Les Languettes, Drouhin produced three barrels of the 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (Domaine), a medium to full-bodied, layered and nicely concentrated wine that’s bright and structured, evocative of white flowers, pomelo, orange oil and buttery pastry.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru was a small yield this year, with just three barrels produced instead of the usual six. It has an understated bouquet of light dandelion and patisserie aromas. The well-balanced palate displays fine delineation and a tang of marmalade toward the finish. This is a nicely composed Corton-Charlemagne, though I wager it will be best consumed within its first decade. Vinous Media | 92-94 VMProminent aromas of mineral reduction and floral elements are laced with hints of wood toast, citrus peel, apple and anise. The sleekly muscular and stony big-bodied flavors are also nicely refined yet powerful while possessing excellent delineation on the youthfully austere finale. This is clearly ripe yet manages to retain the style of a classic CC.Burghound | 92-94 BHFrom a 0.33ha, domaine-owned parcel in Aloxe with an eastern exposition and densely planted 40-year-old vines on thin soils over the limestone bedrock. The fruit is pressed as whole bunches and fermented on native yeasts in cask (one-quarter new) to give a lovely definition of fruit that stretches from green apple to apricot, with hints of smoke, spice, and mineral. On the palate, the texture is broad yet well balanced by firm acidity on the lingering finish. Drinking Window 2024 - 2039.Decanter | 93 DEC

Produced from 2.5 ha of domaine vines around the village of Beaune, notably the young vines of the Clos des Mouches, along with some purchased must. The grapes are pressed gently as whole clusters, lightly settled and fermented in cask (20% new). The wine has a lovely, buttery nose, with a ripe apple fruit and rich, nutty aromas that develop with time. Drinkable now, this will definitely continue to improve. Drinking Window: 2021 - 2029Decanter | 92 DEC

The 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Sécher has turned out beautifully, mingling notions of orange oil and peach with hints of beeswax and rock salt. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with fine depth at the core, tangy acids and an intensely saline finish, it will require some time to unwind.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RP

The 2019 Meursault Genevrières 1er Cru has a very expressive bouquet of grilled almond and walnut aromas that burst forth from the glass. The palate is vibrant on the entry, offering orange zest and apricot; yellow plum and light ginger notes surface with time. I like the finish, which brims over with tension and feels long and tender. Superb. Vinous Media | 92-94 VMAn impressive Meursault with ripe-orange and pear aromas, plus a hint of exotic-fruit character. Generous and concentrated with animating acidity that keeps this light on its feet. Bold finish with a ton of minerality that makes a serious statement. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSot domaine, now racked to tank. Attractive classic Genevrières nose with its little herbal touches. Not too powerful, the fruit builds very well to the back of the palate, ripe yellow fruit, but distinguished and fresh enough at the finish. Very persistent.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JMAromas of pear, orange oil, baking spices and nutmeg introduce Drouhin’s 2019 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières, a medium to full-bodied, bright and lively wine with promising depth and energy. Still a little introverted when I visited, this hadn’t yet been bottled.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPThis is also aromatically cool and pure with its array of naturally exotic acacia blossom, lavender, white orchard fruit and jasmine tea nuances. The texture of the sleek and vibrant mineral-driven flavors is also sophisticated and refined though the finish is not quite as persistent as that of the Pucelles. Even so, this also offers fine development potential. A Genevrières of finesse and delicacy.Burghound | 92 BH

The 2019 Marsannay Clos de Jeu is limpid in color. It presents an enticing mix of red and black fruit, rose petal and violet aromas. The palate is fleshy on the entry with fine grip, and quite saline, leading to a lovely savory finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM(Domaine Joseph Roty Marsannay "Les Clos du Jeu" Villages Red) An even more complex nose offers up markedly ripe yet fresh notes of herbal tea, forest floor, plum, red and dark raspberry, violet and earth, all of which is trimmed in nuances of wood. The succulent and slightly bigger-bodied flavors possess a plush mid-palate mouthfeel along with good minerality, all wrapped in an impressively complex and persistent finish. While this possesses even denser tannins, the borderline creamy mouthfeel should permit this beauty of a Marsannay to be approachable after only 5 to 7 years of bottle age. Well worth considering. (Drink starting 2027)Burghound | 92 BHThe 2019 Marsannay Clos de Jeu offers up aromas of cherries, raspberries and loamy soil, framed by a deft touch of oak. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and seamless, it’s supple and layered, uniting upfront charm with aging potential.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP(Marsannay “Clos de Jeu”- Domaine Joseph Roty) The Clos de Jeu will also be promoted eventually to premier cru and it too is showing its lovely potential in this 2019 bottling from Domaine Roty. The nose jumps from the glass in a complex blend of sweet dark berries, black cherries, smoked meats, a touch of licorice, a fine base of soil tones, woodsmoke and a touch of new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and tangy in personality, with a rock solid core of fruit, lovely mineral drive and grip, well-integrated tannins and a long, complex finish. Fine, fine juice. (Drink between 2027-2050)John Gilman | 91+ JG

Fresh, cooling tones of lemon and grapefruit are accented by burnt butterscotch in this robust yet sharply honed white. Reflective of an intensely hot vintage, it’s broad shouldered and weighty yet firmly anchored by a steely, smoky mineral undertow. Tight in youth, the wine should mature beautifully and be at peak from 2024 through 2035.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEThe 2019 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru has an intense bouquet that shrugs off the reduction to deliver crushed pebbles and honeysuckle and jasmine scents. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh. The elegant finish just needs to develop a little more persistence on the aftertaste. But overall, this is very promising.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMPlump and also juicy, this white borders on orange framing the core peach and melon flavors. A mineral note grounds this version as it plays out on the lingering finish. Fine balance, with a lemon aftertaste. Drink now through 2026.Wine Spectator | 92 WSAn expressive and decidedly ripe yet fresh nose reflects notes of honey, dried yellow orchard fruit and just enough Chablis typicity to make one remember where this is from. There is fine volume and richness to the palate soaking medium-bodied flavors that are shaped by bright acidity on the dry, youthfully austere and lingering finale. The nose is certainly not classic but I very much like the palate impression.Burghound | 91 BH

This is quite ripe though not flat with its combination of backed plum, warm earth, spice and whiffs of the sauvage. The rich and relatively full-bodied flavors possess good if not special density as well as focused power on the sappy, austere and highly persistent finish. I suspect that this very firm effort will age slowly and deliberately but should very much be worth the wait. (Drink starting 2034)Burghound | 92-95 BH

(Domaine François Lamarche La Grande Rue Grand Cru Red) An elegant mix of upper and medium register aromas centers mostly on the red side of the fruit spectrum along with hints of exotic tea, spice and pretty floral elements along with a hint of menthol. There is lovely detail and underlying tension to the moderately powerful medium-bodied flavors that possess plenty of punch on the dusty and youthfully austere finish that exhibits first-rate length. This beautifully balanced effort is a lovely combination of power and refinement and a wine that will also need extended aging though not as much as the Grands Ech. (Drink starting 2034).Burghound | 93-95 BHThis 1.65ha Lamarche monopole next to La Tâche was planted 40 years ago. Lamarche has destemmed the fruit and gently fermented this with an eye toward restraint, before ageing over two winters in cask (80% new). The result has a seductive, pronounced red and black fruit character on the attack, with notes of liquorice and smoke. The wine has pleasant heft, but there are no rough edges or heaviness and the substantial extract is balanced by good, fresh acidity. Lovely in every respect. Drinking Window 2024 - 2049.Decanter | 95 DECThe 2019 La Grande Rue Grand Cru is aromatically tailored in a similar vein to the domaine’s other Grand Crus: ethereal and floral in style with rose-petal-infused red fruit, the quintessential Pinoté, and hints of crushed rock developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, cohesive and poised, gaining weight with aeration toward a very pixelated finish and leaving a ferrous aftertaste. Very fine, very feminine.Vinous Media | 92-94 VM

A lifted intensity of lemon and hazelnut on this wine’s subtle nose promises concentration. The palate presents lemon zestiness and a yeasty texture that seems to fizz with freshness. It has lemony resonance, mouthwatering brightness and a rounded body to back it all up. Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEThe 2019 Chablis Saint Martin, which had already been bottled, has a charming nose of fragrant yellow flowers, caramelized pear and hints of chalk, all very well defined. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh, revealing a twist of sour lemon toward the finish. This is a very fine entry-level Chablis that deserves your consideration.Vinous Media | 91 VMThis special cuvée pays homage to the relics of St Martin, kept in the C9 cellars now owned by Domaine Laroche. This is a pretty strident example of Chablis with powerful acidity that is a little dominant at the moment. Ripe, sunny, peach fruit characters promise a bright future but this really needs 6-12 months to settle down. Drinking Window 2022 - 2026.Decanter | 90 DEC

Old vines grown on a warm, exposed slope (important in Chablis) give this wine its richness and textured concentration. Ripe apple and tangy lime flavors complement a tight edge that will soften as the wine matures. Drink from 2023. Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEDomaine Laroche traces its beginnings back to AD867. This high-quality example of Premier Cru Chablis Vieilles Vignes shows purity of fruit, density of flavour and some subtle, judicious, oak maturation adding some extra layers of complexity. With a mineral aftertaste, this also has intriguing hints of honey and lemon curd on the nose and palate. Drinking Window 2022 - 2028.Decanter | 93 DECThe 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaillons Vieilles Vignes unwinds in the glass with aromas of green orchard fruit, pastry cream, fresh bread and light reduction. Medium to full-bodied, ample and saline, it’s bright and chiseled, with a classically Chablisien tang.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2019 Chablis Les Vaillons Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru has a crisp nose of Granny Smith apples, freshly sliced Nashi pear, wild fennel, green olives and touches of crushed limestone. The palate is fresh and crisp on the entry, demonstrating admirable weight. A little viscosity toward the finish betrays the warmth of the summer, yet the acidity keeps it fresh and tensile. Delicious.Vinous Media | 91 VMAn inflection of green herbs and green fruit marks this round, lively white, with apple, yellow plum and earth notes completing the profile. Excellent length. Drink now through 2025. 1,500 cases made, 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

(Domaine Leflaive Meursault-Blagny "Sous le Dos d’Âne" 1er Cru White) A cool, pure and airy nose is comprised by notes of apple, citrus and white peach. There is once again fine punch and delineation to the middle weight flavors that exude a subtle minerality on the linear, youthfully austere and bone-dry finale. This is going to need at least a few years of patience to further flesh out the finish as it’s quite compact at present. (Drink starting 2027)Burghound | 90-93 BHThe 2019 Meursault 1er Cru Sous le Dos d’Ane is also a touch reductive out of the gates, unwinding to reveal aromas of crisp green orchard fruit, hazelnuts, dried white flowers and smoke. Medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny, with lively acids and a long, saline finish, it’s a seamless, elegant wine from a parcel located just above Pierre Morey’s Meursault Perrières.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2019 Meursault Sous le Dos l’Ane 1er Cru has a very Puligny-like bouquet, well defined, quite poised with traces of yellow plum and apricot, very pretty. The palate is quite edgy on the opening. There is a small reduction at play here, but fine weight and concentration with a tensile, stem ginger-tinged finish that is very satisfying. Maybe not long-term, but utterly delicious. Closure: Diam 30Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon has turned out very nicely, mingling aromas of pear and citrus oil with hints of wheat toast, fresh bread and hazelnuts in an inviting bouquet. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and concentrated, with terrific cut and a long, saline finish, it's taut and incisive, showing promise for the cellar.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP(Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon 1er Cru White) The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon 1er Cru has an austere nose that demands coaxing from the glass; struck flint and sea spray scents, cool, calm and collected. The palate is taut on the entry, then fans out with glee, notes of dessicated orange peel, white peach and tangerine, a lovely bitterness that counterbalances the concentration on the finish. Exccellent. Closure: Diam 30Vinous Media | 93 VM(Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet "Clavoillon" 1er Cru White) An overtly floral suffused nose displays notes of pear compote, citrus confit and subtle spice wisps. There is excellent vibrancy to the attractively textured medium weight flavors that also exude a refreshing salinity on the citrusy, dry and notably more complex finish that is perceptibly firmer. This should age well. (Drink starting 2029)Burghound | 91-94 BH

Aromas of pear, hazelnuts, crisp green apple, fresh peach and orange oil, framed by a touch of youthful reduction, preface Leflaive’s 2019 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières, a medium to full-bodied, ample and incisive wine with a fleshy and enveloping core of fruit that’s underpinned by a tangy spine of acidity that animates the long, saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru has a little more amplitude compared to the Clavaillon, scents of Granny Smith apples and dewy meadow on a cold morning. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, a little more weight and girth than the Clavaillon, not to mention a touch more salinity and race on the persistent finish. Excellent. Closure: Diam 30Vinous Media | 94 VMLeflaive farms three parcels in Folatières totalling 1.26 hectares. The site has very little soil, and the vines are almost right on the limestone. This precocious site is often the first to be picked. In 2019 it delivered a wine that shows ripe aromas of passionfruit and ripe Cavaillon melon. The modest use of new oak (20%) assures purity of fruit. There is still enough acidity here to balance, and the wine is extremely seductive yet also extremely ageworthy. Ideally for mid-term drinking.Decanter | 94 DECHere the beautifully layered nose flirts with the exotic in the form of white and yellow peach, dried apricot, jasmine tea and a similar array of spice wisps. The ripe yet restrained and more obviously mineral-driven flavors possess excellent depth and persistence on the very lemon tinged finale. This too is noticeably firmer and should reward a decade plus of keeping.Burghound | 92-94 BHFine pure fresh lemon colour. A wonderfully clear nose with a depth of fruit and enough precision. The little touches of yellow fruit which this vintage gives. Ripe citrus notes, then more of a white fruit finish. Even just a touch of grapefruit. An interesting complex wine which avoids being too juicy. Tasted: May 2022.Jasper Morris | 94 JMA lean, bracing white, revealing floral, lemon, green apple, sour plum and baking spice flavors. Racy, finding its balance in the end and staying long, detailed on the finish. Best from 2023 through 2028. 65 cases made, 13 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

Fullish yellow. The complex nose shows the power of the vintage, a few drier tannins behind, fair acidity. I find this backward and difficult to judge. I think the Clos character is there, but it is reticent today. The palate does deliver detail and layers of fruit though. The finish does also suggest the necessary class. Really good length here.Jasper Morris | 94 JM

Ample but not dominant wood doesn’t completely mask the equally exotic white and yellow orchard fruit scents that exhibit enough Chablis typicity to be persuasive. There is once again very impressive volume and mid-palate density to the long, caressing and balanced finale where a refreshing touch of bitter lemon character slowly emerges. This is a powerful Preuses that will require at least a few years to fully integrate the wood treatment and to develop more overall depth.Burghound | 94 BHThe 2019 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru has a clean, precise bouquet, quite tight at the moment but displaying focus and admirable delineation. The palate is well balanced with a crisp line of acidity, fresh and vibrant, tapering away a little toward the finish, which offers bright citrus fruit laced with orange peel and truffle but needs a tad more depth and grip.Vinous Media | 91 VMA lean, wiry white, with a touch of oak spice framing apple, lemon and lanolin flavors. It’s bracing and moderately long. Drink now through 2025. 90 cases made, 30 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WS