92-94 Point Wines

wines

An abundance of Chablis typicity is present on the aromas of mineral reduction, white orchard fruit, citrus zest and tidal pool. There is again very good volume and density to the medium-bodied flavors that are unusually powerful for Fourchaume, all wrapped in a lemony and almost salty finish. This is quite promising and particularly so for a négociant offering.Burghound | 90-93 BH(Chablis “Fourchaume”- Domaine William Fèvre (Domaine vines)) The Fourchaume from the estate’s own holdings in Fourchaume (all of which lie in Vaulorent) is a notable step up in the 2020 vintage from the bottling made from purchased fruit. The nose is pure, deep and precise, delivering scents of pear, apple, lime blossoms, just a touch of paraffin, spring flowers and a very complex base of limestone minerality. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, racy and rock solid at the core, with a bit more of a reserved personality than the above wine, but more backend lift, cut and grip. This wine has great focus and balance and will be stunning once it starts to blossom in four or five years. (Drink between 2026 - 2060)John Gilman | 93+ JGQuite a lot of weight here. A tad overripe perhaps? Less precision than the other wines so far. Big, powerful example of Fourchaume. Loads of acidity to keep everything fresh, should age well, perhaps not in quite such an elegant way.Decanter | 92 DEC

The 2022 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru has a very impressive bouquet with wonderful marine-inflected malic scents, quite strict and focused, leaning more to traditional old school Chablis. The palate is very well balanced with a sapid entry, linear and strict with a twist of sour lemon on the finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 93 VMCool and restrained, not showing a lot at the moment, but has a fine balance between fruit ripeness and a fine thread of acidity. Precise, this will need time. Samuel Billaud has one plot in Chapelot and one in Montée de Tonnerre.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECFresh mid lemon. Very classy on the nose, with the extra fruit-driven intensity. A brilliant core with the extra fruit from this sunny site making it more accessible. A tropical take on grapefruit promotes a lovely aftertaste Drink from 2027-2036. Tasted Jun 2024.Jasper Morris | 93 JMAn elegant, pure and beautifully airy nose presents ripe but wonderfully fresh aromas of mineral reduction, acacia blossom and oyster shell trimmed in enough wood to merit mentioning. The racy and borderline painfully intense middleweight flavors exude a bracing minerality that adds a sense of lift to the detailed, focused and lingering finale that is neither especially dry nor austere. Other than a trace of backend warmth, this is a classic MdT though one that could use better depth, so a few years of patience will be necessary.Burghound | 92 BH

Starts ripe and fleshy in the mouth, then the minerality comes through. Fresh and direct, a very nicely balanced wine which, although approachable now, will age. The vines here lie on very steep slopes with full exposition to the sun. Early harvesting is the key to freshness.Decanter | 93 DECA small lot so better to assemble early, which has just been done. A fresh green light shines through the clouds nonetheless. Picked among the first, a little yellow fruit plums and fresh white peaches. Salty rather than saline, with a fine firm backbone. The finish is particularly impressive, with the fruit becoming ever fresher at the back of the palate. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted: June 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-96 JMSlightly more evident wood can be found on the cool and elegant aromas of mineral reduction, spiced pear and pretty floral whiffs along with a plenitude of classic Chablis elements. The understated, pure and borderline delicate flavors are at once supple yet beautifully detailed as well as almost aggressively mineral-driven on the superbly long finish. This is pretty much textbook Vaudésir.Burghound | 92-94 BHThe 2022 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru has a less immediate nose than the Bougros, with hints of lanolin and estuarine scents, lemon verbena and fern. This builds with confidence in the glass. The palate is well-balanced with fine delineation and cohesion, a welcome sour lemon edge, and salinity with a primal grapefruit finish. Again, this will require time once in bottle.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

The domaine’s 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume, a parcel selection in Vaulorent, opens in the glass with notes of sweet citrus fruit, white flowers and oyster shell, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and pillowy palate that’s cool and fleshy, concluding with a saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

Didier Séguier notes that Montmains, with it’s deep clay soil, imparts extra richness. A favourite cuvée for Séguier, this is very mineral in character, tempering the richness and power on the palate. Fèvre owns 3.8ha of Montmains, coming from 10 plots across all three sub-climats.Decanter | 93 DECClear lemon and lime colour. Just a very light coquillage reduction. Then the wine builds a beautiful level of intensity on the palate, a lime thread, very salivating for its dry finish. An impeccable balance, this is faultless. And so persistent! Nothing heavy, nothing over sunny. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted: June 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-95 JMThe cool and almost reticent nose makes clear that it could be from nowhere but Chablis with its array of prominent mineral reduction, shellfish and iodine-scented pear and floral aromas. The more refined if perhaps slightly less generous middleweight flavors possess both good volume and vibrancy on the lightly stony, persistent and balanced finish. This lovely effort should be more than capable of delivering 7 to 10 years of cellaring potential.Burghound | 90-93 BHThe 2022 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru has a tightly wound bouquet, maybe a little reduced now, rendering it challenging to read. The palate is well-balanced with a malic entry, fine acidity, and modest depth, with a peppery touch lingering on the aftertaste. This needs a little more personality and engagement.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

Always one of the more quintessentially Chablisien wines in the range, the 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys offers up notes of citrus oil, white flowers, wet stones and oyster shell, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and pure palate that’s suave but incisive, concluding with a saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPWith its particular northerly exposition within Vaillons, you would expect Les Lys to be very successful in 2022. And it is. A fine blend of freshness allied to sun-drenched ripeness, with a pronounced mineral finish. A great example of the distinctive terroir of Les Lys. Long, mineral, salty tail.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECThe 2022 Chablis Les Lys 1er Cru comes from north/northwest-facing vines. This complex and detailed bouquet of yellow fruit, lemon verbena and lemon thyme is quite minerally and focused. The well-balanced palate has a fine acidic spine, more sapidity than the Vaillons and a persistent and detailed finish as it fans out. Superb.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMThere is a certain coolness to the otherwise ripe aromas of apple, pear, sea breeze and quinine. The succulent and unusually rich middleweight flavors are also nicely refined while flashing a bead of minerality on the youthfully austere, balanced and lilting finale that could use better depth. This citrusy effort is really quite good and one that should benefit markedly from a few years of keeping.Burghound | 91 BHJust assembled so cloudy, as all the lees remain in suspension. The bouquet is less fine but shows nonetheless a wealth of pure white fruit which is attractive. Lots of marl with a mix of portlandian and kimmeridgian soils, the former adding the body, the latter leaving the lick of salinity. Good length. Drink from 2026-2034. Tasted Jun 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JM

Top notes of lanolin and vanilla are backed by honeysuckle, peach and lemon tart flavors in this youthful white. With air, this gains freshness and elegance, leaving a salty, mineral element to mingle with the oak spice on the finish. Best from 2027 through 2038. 60 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThere is a lovely, opulent balance between the richness of this wine and the elegance of its acid structure. The initial attack is redolent of grapefruit and quince with hints of hawthorn flowers and chalk. The texture is tightly wound and powerful, yet the wine is silky and very fine, even at this stage. The grapes are from the heart of the Vaillon lieu-dit and were planted in 1933 by Fabien Moreau’s grandfather Guy. One third was fermented in cask, two-thirds in tank; aged for a total of 18 months before bottling.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECThe 2023 Chablis Vaillon 1er Cru Cuvée Guy Moreau, which comes from 90-year-old vines, did not finish its fermentation until the following June. It is a little broader on the nose compared to the regular cuvée and this displays a touch more depth. The palate is well balanced and fresh with a bead of acidity and hints of toffee apple and white peach toward the finish. This is very fine.Vinous Media | 91 VMHere too a whiff of the exotic can be found on the slightly riper and lightly oaky aromas of pear, apple and citrus confit plus just enough Chablis typicity to be interesting. As is usually the case, the old vines are in evidence on the middle weight plus flavors thanks to the abundance of sappy dry extract that coats the palate on the seductively textured finish. This does however need better depth so at least some patience is recommended.Burghound | 91 BHLively lemon and lime. The oak ageing means that the bouquet is more hidden in youth. There is a suggestion of greater depth of fruit, along with a little biscuity touch. Some decent acidity, but soft white fruit and flesh dominates the palate. Fair length, not so much tension. Hovering on 13% alcohol. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted Jun 2025.Jasper Morris | 90 JM

Pale lemon with a lime tint. The bouquet is sublime, with all the class of Clos yet in a refined way. The marine fossils are at work. There is adequate flesh but it is better controlled here, leading to a tighter finish. Understated, showing the sunshine in a balanced form, and pleasingly persistent. Drink from 2027-2036. Tasted Jun 2025.Jasper Morris | 94 JMRipe, elegant and relatively cool aromas include those of acacia, oyster shell, iodine and a slightly more moderate dollop of wood that can also be found on the intense big-bodied flavors that exude evident minerality on the impressively long finale where the only nit is a touch of warmth. I would add that the wood influence is sufficient such that there is a borderline tannic quality to the finish. Patience strongly advised.Burghound | 93 BHThis is a ripe style, revealing a flash of pineapple, along with peach, mirabelle plum and melon, plus a hint of seashore. Unfolds effortlessly on the palate. Fresh finish. Drink now through 2033. 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSThe 2023 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a neutral, stony nose that is outperformed by the Valmur this year. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. Fresh clementines intermix with gooseberry and red apple notes. It is quite peppery and admirably persistent toward the finish. Give this a couple of years in bottle.Vinous Media | 91+ VM

The Valmur from Domaine Christian Moreau is a vivacious wine with abundant aromas of ripe pear and melon, hints of acacia blossoms and spice underpinned with a flinty minerality. The texture has tension and snap, yet there a rich, almost plump side here that remains perfectly balanced with the crisp acidity; the finish echoes with a hint of ’beautiful bitterness’. The grapes are mostly from the 0.70ha parcel facing southeast; there is a bit from the northeast-facing side for balance. Undoubtedly charming on release, this will effortlessly age for 20 years or more.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECThe 2023 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru is more old school, with greener, apple-like fruit. It’s quite stony and more reserved than the Vaudésir. The palate is fresh and vibrant, with a lively thread of acidity. This is composed, with a dash of spice toward the finish that has put on a bit of weight since last year. The 2023 is very promising.Vinous Media | 93 VMBroad and shaded by oak spice, this white exhibits lemon, apple, honeysuckle and salty mineral flavors, all delineated by lively acidity. Fades briefly before returning with echoes of fruit and flowers on the finish. Best from 2027 through 2040. 20 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSA pungent nose of smoky reduction, citrus and moderate wood toast is all that can be discerned at present so be sure to give this some air if you’re tempted to open a bottle young. Otherwise, the rich, powerful and concentrated broad-shouldered flavors also possess plenty of sappy dry extract before concluding in a lemony, dry and moderately austere finale. This is a big and firmly structured wine that is quite promising.Burghound | 93 BHPale lemon and lime colour. A tighter bouquet with a light reduction. Good tension here, thanks to the lower alcohol perhaps. Some muscles but all in a discreet fashion. 12.3% alcohol. Drink from 2027-2036. Tasted Jun 2025.Jasper Morris | 93 JM

Very pale with a green tint. Immediately saline on the nose. Medium bodied, white fruit, greater intensity at the finish and just a little bit more tension which is a bonus. 12.8% alcohol. Drink from 2027-2036. Tasted Jun 2025.Jasper Morris | 93 JMThe 2023 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru has a tightly wound bouquet with scents of tangerine, freshly picked gooseberry and flinty aromas. The palate is taut and fresh, mixing red apple with orange rind and light white tea notes. This is a well-crafted Vaudésir with satisfying weight on the finish.Vinous Media | 92 VMA ripe style, this white offers peach, apple and light citrus flavors, with a stony, mineral undertow. Starts out plump and fleshy, then the cleansing acidity sweeps in. Excellent length. Drink now through 2033. 20 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSA deft application of wood sets off ripe but not really exotic aromas of white peach, acacia, citrus zest and a touch of algae. There is both fine intensity and a lovely texture to the mineral-driven medium weight flavors that deliver very good length on the balanced, refined and notably more complex finale. Lovely.Burghound | 92 BH

Sourced from an east-facing slope that yields one of the racier and more ethereal wines in the range, the 2023 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses opens with aromas of oyster liquor, orange peel, white flowers and lemon oil. Medium- to full-bodied, taut and tensile, it is nakedly chalky, incisive and searingly saline. The site is so steep that special cable equipment is employed for its cultivation.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2023 Chablis “les Preuses” from the domaine is simply superb on both the nose and palate. The utterly complex bouquet wafts from the glass in a mix of apple, fresh lime, anise, citrus zest, a touch of paraffin and a stunning foundation of chalky minerality. On the palate the wine is pure, precise, full-bodied and utterly defined by its underlying minerality, with a great core of fruit, a fine spine of acidity, laser-like focus and a long, complex and beautifully balanced finish. A great example of les Preuses. (Drink between 2033-2070)John Gilman | 95+ JGAn airy, expressive and beautifully layered nose speaks primarily of citrus, acacia blossom, iodine and shellfish nuances. There is excellent volume and better mid-palate density to the solidly powerful and intense medium-bodied flavors that possess a sappy texture that carries over to the balanced, long and quite serious finale. This too is very classy and a wine that should amply repay up to a decade of keeping.Burghound | 94 BHThis wine has an intriguing duality. Enticing aromas of dried summer field grass and fall-picked red apple open on the nose punctuated by hints of green pear and forest floor. The rich and fulsome palate parades around a reserved fruit core that projects strength.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEA stunning nose, a little wrapping of seaweed around the stones. Perfectly balanced, then just when you are enjoying the subtlety, you sense the huge block of central white fruit as well. Only a little bit spicy, in fact even quite juicy at the finish. A long-term keeper, potentially a magnificent Preuses. The texture of a silk cravat suggests Didier Seguier. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted Jun 2024.Jasper Morris | 94-96 JMThis is rich and interwoven with peach, yellow plum, earth, stone and oyster shell aromas and flavors. Tangy and mouthwatering, with terrific harmony and a long, citrus- and mineral-tinged aftertaste. Drink now through 2033. 120 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThe 2023 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru comes from 2.5 hectares of vines split over two parcels. Scents of grapefruit, white flowers, and crushed stone. A touch of sea spray comes through with time and eventually gains admirable intensity. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry, fine acidity, maybe not quite as complex as the Côte Bouguerots. A little more understated on the finish. But this will age well in bottle.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

The Fèvre bottling of premier cru Beauroy is teeming with wonderful aromas of lime peel and green apple, touched with a bit of smoky reduction and a lovely salty edge on the finish. The texture is lively and fresh, but there is also density here. The grapes come from three parcels located in part of the Beauroy climat called Troésmes. There are two parcels of old vines (up to 50 years of age) and one of young vines. The grapes are fermented and aged partly in tank and partly in cask (40–50%).Decanter Magazine | 94 DECThis sunny white is broad and fleshy, evoking peach, yellow plum, orange peel and neroli aromas and flavors. An undercurrent of lively acidity and mineral keeps this defined and propels the long aftertaste. Drink now through 2033. 40 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSA step up in tension, the 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy, sourced from a high-maturity site planted with 60-year-old vines, delivers notes of white flowers, pear, peach and honeysuckle. Medium- to full-bodied, ample and textural, the palate is lively and charming. A notably sunny terroir, Beauroy—like Vaillons and Vaudésir—is harvested on the early side to preserve balance and freshness.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPThe 2023 Chablis “Beauroy” from Domaine Fèvre is a very pretty example of the vintage. The wine’s nose is complex and nicely succulent in personality, offering up notes of pear, tart orange, wet stone minerality, lime peel and a topnote of fruit blossoms. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, zesty and nicely reserved in profile today, with a good core of the vintage’s beautiful fruit, good acids and grip and a long, soil-driven and beautifully balanced finish. This will be one of the earlier-drinking premier crus in the stables this year and will make an excellent addition to a well-stocked wine list. (Drink between 2026-2050)John Gilman | 91+ JGBlended yesterday with its lees, so troubled. Will stay on lees through to the spring, but the upheaval dumbs down the nose and fattens the palate, so it is hard to taste with exactitude today. Even so, the central core is in place with attractive flavours to finish, and enough acidity. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted Jun 2024.Jasper Morris | 90-92 JMThe 2023 Chablis Beauroy 1er Cru had just been pumped so it was extremely cloudy in the glass as they keep the lees. The bouquet is well defined with light marine/oyster shell scents. The palate is balanced with pleasing fatness on the entry, not a steely or austere Beauroy. A sunny Chablis that has a "smile" on the finish.Vinous Media | 88-90 VMA slightly riper yet still attractively fresh nose combines notes of white peach and passion fruit with those of iodine and shellfish. There is a lovely texture to the rich and sappy medium-bodied flavors that also conclude in a lingering if mildly warm finale. Once again, this should drink well after only a few years of keeping.Burghound | 88-90 BH

Sourced from a north-facing site beneath forest cover with clay-rich soils, a parcel selection in Vaillons, the 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys is among the most quintessentially Chablisien wines in the portfolio and is harvested around a week later than the fruit that enters the Vaillons bottling. It offers aromas of oyster juice, white flowers, lemon oil and Granny Smith apple, followed by a medium- to full-bodied, incisive and pure palate that is elegant yet racy and fresh, concluding with a long, saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPI love Domaine Fèvre’s Les Lys bottling, year in and year out, and the 2023 is another absolutely superb premier cru in the making. The exposition of this vineyard is plain north, which may account why it acquits itself so well so often in this age of global warming. The 2023 Les Lys is a beautiful wine on both the nose and palate, offering up a complex blend of lime, pear, stony minerality, a touch of anise, dried flowers and an exotic touch of mossiness in the upper register that recall a bit the Abtsberg vineyard from Maximin Grünhaus. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, precise and complex, with a great core of pure fruit, a lovely girdle of acidity, fine minerality and a long, vibrant and impeccably balanced finish. (Drink between 2029-2060)John Gilman | 93+ JGThe 2023 Chablis Les Lys 1er Cru comes from a single hectare of vines. Lime, red apple and touches of orange pith and peach skin develop in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a taut line of acidity, silky smooth, very composed with a lot of finesse on the finish. This is one of the domaine’s hidden gems and should not be under-estimated.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMThis ripe white’s peach, apricot and melon flavors are accented by earth, citrus peel and vanilla notes. Airy in texture and mouthwatering on the finish. Drink now through 2033. 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WSThis is also quite fresh though a bit cooler with its array of pretty floral, citrus confit, iodine and oyster shell nuances. There is unusually good richness and volume for Les Lys to the sappy and succulent flavors that terminate in a sappy, powerful and lightly bitter lemon-inflected finale. Good if not special quality here.Burghound | 90 BHClear pale lemon yellow. The nose is taking coaxing but has the precision. Very good tension, still with delicacy despite the concentration, nothing dilute here, good tension with a little bitterness at the back. Very promising. Drink from 2027-2034. Tasted Jun 2024.Jasper Morris | 90-92 JM

Crushed stone and green apple mingle on the nose that rests against a wall of baby’s breath and muddled white blossom. The steely palate accentuates purity of fruit while elevating freshness on the finish that is lifted by a nervy layer of acidity. Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEThe 2023 Chablis “Vaillons” from Domaine William Fèvre is another absolutely classic expression of this fine premier cru vineyard. The bouquet is bright and complex, wafting from the glass in a lovely mix of lemon, pink grapefruit, anise, citrus peel, chalky minerality, white flowers and a gentle topnote of beeswax. On the palate the wine is vibrant, full-bodied and focused, with a great core of fruit, lovely bounce and grip, seamless balance and a long, mineral-driven and complex finish. First class Vaillons! (Drink between 2028-2055)John Gilman | 93 JGSourced from a sunny, precocious site that is typically among the first to be harvested, the 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons delivers aromas of beeswax, orange oil, pear and honeysuckle. Full-bodied, enveloping and charming, it is underpinned by ripe yet vibrant acidity and concludes with a saline finish, reflecting the personality of the warm vintage. The wine is derived from 3.5 hectares, the majority of which lies within Vaillons proper.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RPLinear in profile, yet with a fleshy texture enveloping flavors of lemon cake, yellow plum and apple. There’s an underlying flintiness that, coupled with the acidity, brings clarity to the citrus-tinged aftertaste. Excellent length. Drink now through 2033. 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSThe 2023 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru has much more composure than the Montmains, more harmonious and poised. Light sea spray scents mixed with Crustacea come through with aeration. The palate is well balanced with fine delineation, quite linear and malic with a concentrated finish. I prefer this to the Montmains this year.Vinous Media | 90-92 VMAn exuberantly fresh nose features notes of essence of apple, sea breeze, pink grapefruit and oyster shell. The delicious, fleshy and solidly concentrated medium weight flavors deliver good if not truly special length on the lightly stony, balanced and bitter lemon-inflected finale. This is sufficiently rich to allow for early accessibility but it also has the stuffing to repay 6 to 10 years of cellaring.Burghound | 89-91 BHMid lemon yellow. A little headier in bouquet than the Montmains, balanced by a reductive note. Richer than usual for Vaillons but still with some balance. A little youthful bitterness. Not quite in place today. Drink from 2026-2033. Tasted Jun 2024.Jasper Morris | 89-91 JM

This charming village-level Chablis is a faithful (and delicious) reflection of the 2023 growing season in Chablis, featuring ripe aromas of white peach and nectarine, a hint of hawthorn flowers, and a suggestion of spice. The wine is a true cuvée ronde, reflecting the entire appellation, since Benoît Droin blended it from 40 parcels that total 9.33ha. The grapes are fermented on native yeasts and aged in stainless-tanks to preserve the purity of the fruit. This wine will drink well on release.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECAromas of apples, peach, toasted nuts and iodine introduce the 2023 Chablis Village, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and suave wine that’s round and seamless, concluding with a sapid finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

Forward aromas of lemon peel, green apple and pear are accented with flint, chalk and spice notes. The texture is lively and taut, and the tension draws the wine to a dynamic finish. The grapes are from a 0.33ha plot on the right bank, very near the grands crus in thin, stony soils over a compact layer of Kimmeridgian – classic Chablis. Benoît Droin says of this wine, ’it’s not to drink, it’s to wait 15 years’, but wine lovers will be forgiven for jumping the gun.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECThe 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent offers up aromas of white peach, flowers and oyster shells, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered palate that’s suave and ethereal, with racy acids and a saline finish. This is especially good in 2023.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93+ RPThe 2023 Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru has a vibrant, minerally bouquet with a sea spray/oyster shell scent that becomes more intense with aeration. Very precise. The palate is smooth on the entry, very detailed with a fine bead of acidity, subtle praline and chai notes towards the elegant and seductive finish. Not long term perhaps, but beautifully crafted.Vinous Media | 93 VMAs with the Montmains, a discreet application of wood sets off ripe orchard fruit, especially pear, suffused with oyster shell, lemon zest and cool floral wisps. There is fine density to the intense and succulent medium weight flavors that deliver very good persistence on the citrusy, balanced and sappy finale. As it often is chez Droin, this is really quite stylish if perhaps slightly more forward than it usually is. Either way, it is lovely.Burghound | 92 BHBenoît uses 30% barrel vinification here with younger wood given the intrinsic power of Vaulorent. Lots of stones show in the nose. After this austere start there is a wealth of richer white fruit, infused with minerals, leading to a generous finish without any tropical notes. This should develop into a classic. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted Jun 2024.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JM

With its pale lemon yellow colour, pronounced aromas of citrus and ripe nectarine and touches of smoky reduction and hay, this grand cru shows lovely concentration and lively acidity that bring depth and carry it through an impressively long finish. The grapes come from five parcels in Les Clos that total 3.2ha. Gently crushed before fermentation; aged in stainless steel. Although approachable young, this has the substance to age.Decanter Magazine | 93 DEC

Here there is enough reduction to push the underlying fruit to the background at present. There is an appealing tension and refinement to the succulent middle weight flavors that are supported by lemon-tinged acidity on the refreshingly dry, youthfully austere and intensely mineral-driven finale. This isn’t especially dense but it’s silky and certainly firm enough to need at least moderate patience. In a word, lovely.Burghound | 91-93 BHThe 2023 Chablis Blanchots Grand Cru is matured entirely in tank. Green apple, Anjou pear. A brioche-tinged bouquet gains intensity with aeration. The palate is well balanced with slightly lower acidity, a little waxy in texture with good weight on the finish. The 2022 is more complex but this should still give a decade of drinking pleasure.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

The 2023 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru is raised in used barrels. The nose here is much more reticent than the Bougros, demanding coaxing from the glass. Given a few swirls, eventually, it offers quite attractive yellow fruit, beeswax and lanolin scents. The palate is well balanced with a more exotic white peach and apricot. This more-of-a-crowd-pleasing Les Clos doesn’t possess the acidity of the previous vintage, but there is certainly weight and length. It will be one of the earlier-drinking Les Clos.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMModerate wood frames more prominent floral influence on the aromas of algae, citrus confit and oyster shell. The succulent yet nicely tension-filled broad-shouldered flavors are quite rich and generously proportioned where the wood telegraphed by the nose is picked up by the solidly long and borderline chewy finale that is refreshingly dry. This isn’t what I would describe as a classic Les Clos but it’s impressive in its fashion and should age accordingly yet be approachable young.Burghound | 90-93 BH

The 2024 Montée de Tonnerre had also been bottled in November of 2025. Guillaume Michel noted that they had almost fifty percent of normal yields in this vineyard in 2024, which was excellent by the draconian standards of the vintage. The wine is brilliant, offering up a deep and complex bouquet of lemon, pear, wet stone minerality, dried flowers and a topnote of orange peel. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and racy, with a gorgeous core of fruit, beautiful mineral drive, laser-like focus and a very, very long, perfectly balanced and complex finish. Great juice. (Drink between 2028-2060)John Gilman | 94 JGThe 2024 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre is more tightly knit and simultaneously slightly less demonstrative than Vaillons, exhibiting aromas of lemon confit, Granny Smith apple, orange peel and white flowers. On the palate, it is medium- to full-bodied, concentrated and vibrant, with a tightly coiled profile and a long, chalky finish. It is one of Michel’s sites that suffered least from frost and hail in 2024.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RPThe 2024 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru has a well-defined bouquet with just a very light reduction, though there is slightly more mineralité compared to the Vaillons or Vaulorent. The palate is well balanced and cohesive, with a fine bead of acidity and a touch of sour lemon perking up the finish. The 2024 is worth looking out for.Vinous Media | 90-92 VMA classic Chablis nose freely offers up its combination of citrus, iodine, mineral reduction, white flower and a background whiff of phenolic character. The notably denser middle weight flavors possess good volume and a succulent mouthfeel before terminating in a dry, youthfully austere and impressively persistent finale. This is really quite classy and one to consider buying.Burghound | 90-93 BHMid lemon yellow. Remarkably lactic on the nose. Flesh on the nose, and a biscuity touch, I would definitely have said oaked if tasted blind. Lacks a bit of energy behind. Tasted Jun 2025.Jasper Morris | 88-90 JM