92-94 Point Wines

wines

Beautifully layered aromas are composed by notes of citrus confit, white and yellow orchard fruit, dried apricot and traces of both wood and acacia. There is excellent density and richness to the powerful, palate coating and hugely long finish. This balanced but very firm effort completely transcends the rest of the range though note well that it’s going to require extended patience before it will reveal its full potential.Burghound | 93-95 BH

Bottled in late July. Pale lemon colour. A pure and fresh bouquet, mostly white fruit. Particularly stony this year behind a raft of white apple fruit, plenty of energy, starting to soften at the back. Middleweight plus, quite attractive. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 92 JM

Fine lemon and lime colour. The bouquet is very alluring and signals a yellow fruit style. Guillaume thinks the plant material is earlier ripening here than in Vergers. The fruit is sunny, the finish remains all lemons and limes. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JMThe 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes 1er Cru has an impressive sense of delineation and poise on the nose, yellow fruit commingling with sea spray and linseed aromas, and a touch of chai tea. The palate is well-balanced with a fine line of acidity, taut and fresh with subtle stem ginger notes towards the Meursault-like finish. Good potential.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

For many years now I have felt that Alex Moreau produces the very finest example of Chassagne-Montrachet villages in the entire commune and his 2022 is once again, an outstanding bottle of wine. The bouquet is deep, precise and complex, wafting from the glass in a refined blend of apple, pear, a touch of almond, a beautiful base of chalky soil tones, vanillin oak and a topnote of orange blossoms. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a beautiful core of fruit, excellent soil signature and grip, a fine spine of acidity and a long, well balanced and youthful finish. Like many of the best 2022 white Burgundies, this wine is already quite tasty, but it will be an even better drink if given three or four years’ worth of bottle age to allow it to fully blossom. Fine juice. (Drink between 2025-2050)John Gilman | 92 JGAn even lemon and lime colour. Energy on the nose, not yet so much detail. The palate delivers its usual resounding success, a mass of pure white fruit which builds in intensity to the back and finishes with the lightest of toasty notes which is complementary. Excellent length. Not only is this really good, there are 100 barrels of it! Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMMoreau’s production has diminished to the extent that space is no longer a constraint, meaning that he can afford the 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc a longer élevage on the lees than was hitherto the case. The wine is shaping up nicely, revealing aromas of pear, green apple, white flowers and toasted nuts, followed by a medium to full-bodied, lively and attractively complete palate.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RPThe 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Village has a very composed bouquet with yellow plum, fresh pear and light lemon verbena scents that gain momentum in the glass. The well-balanced palate is harmonious and focused, with a keen line of acidity and a dab of orange rind and peach skin on the finish. A delight.Vinous Media | 89-91 VMSmoke and petrol nuances add breadth to the aromas of rosemary oil, pear and soil tones. There is impressive volume to the dense and seductively textured medium weight flavors thanks to the abundant amount of dry extract that imparts a sappy quality to the lingering, powerful and balanced finale. This is noticeably less refined, indeed it’s mildly rustic, but offers excellent quality for its level. Recommended.Burghound | 89-92 BH

Aromas of honeyed orchard fruits, buttery pastry, peaches, toasted nuts and spices introduce the 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Marquis de Laguiche, a medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny wine that’s rich, glossy and unctuous, with all the fat and texture typical of this bottling.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPPicked between 2nd and 5th September. A very pretty clean lemon and lime. The oak is very well integrated into the classy nose. Plenty of energy but also light on its feet for Morgeot without betraying the appellation, and the fruit persists particularly well on the palate. Drink from 2030-2037. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JMThe 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru (Marquis de Laguiche), picked September 2 to 5, has a delineated bouquet with apple blossom, peach skin and light honeysuckle aromas that bloom in the glass. The palate is well-balanced with good substance and a better acidic spine than the preceding Meursault Genevrières. There is commendable weight and depth on the finish. Drink over the next 12 to 15 years.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMThis is also quite floral in style with its aromas of petrol, white orchard fruit and discreet hint of rosemary oil, all of which is trimmed in much more subtle wood treatment. There is more volume and power to the bigger-bodied flavors that are rich to the point of opulence while delivering fine length. This isn’t refined but it doesn’t lack for body and character.Burghound | 91-93 BH

Here the nose is relatively firmly reduced to if you’re going to crack a bottle young, be sure to give it some air first. Otherwise, there is both excellent freshness and verve suffusing the sleek, detailed and beautifully textured medium-bodied flavors that brim with sappy dry extract that buffers the moderately firm acid spine shaping the bitter lemon-inflected and bone-dry finish. This is very compact at present and a wine that definitely needs at least a few years of patience.Burghound | 92 BH

The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Fairendes is showing especially well, revealing aromas of pear and crisp white peach mingled with hints of matchstick, toasted nuts and flowers. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, it’s unctuous and elegant, with terrific purity and a penetrating finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93+ RP5 barrels are kept separate from the Morgeot blend. Pale colour, attractive energy to this, more upper slope class than the Morgeot mix. A wealth of fruit across the palate, generous and charming together, with energy behind. A complete white fruit wine that is worth taking time over. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted Nov 2024.Jasper Morris | 93 JMThis is even more floral-suffused with notes of acacia, white rose and gardenia adding breadth to the ripe yet cool aromas of pear, apple and crushed fennel. The rich, generously proportioned and solidly powerful larger-bodied flavors manage to remain nicely refined on the sappy and palate staining finish. This is also worth checking out.Burghound | 92 BH

The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet “Boudriotte” from Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard is not quite as buttoned up behind its structure as the lovely la Grande Montagne, but it too is going to need a couple of years in the cellar before drinking in earnest. The wine offers up a lovely bouquet of apple, lime, wet stone minerality, a touch of almond, vanillin oak and a Ramonet-like hint of peppermint in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep. full-bodied, complex and beautifully balanced, with a fine core, lovely acids and grip and a long, well balanced and zesty finish. Fine juice. (Drink between 2029-2060)John Gilman | 93 JGThe 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet La Boudriotte 1er Cru comes from lower down the slope. It has a taut and fresh bouquet—a little austere at first—but gradually reveals its energy. The palate is well balanced with a brisk, edgy opening and citrus-fresh orange zest notes toward the penetrating finish. This has great potential. I can imagine it marrying perfectly with fruits de mer.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMThis is also quite firmly reduced though here too there is both good freshness and vibrancy to the slightly bigger-bodied and more powerful, if less mineral-driven, flavors that also offer acceptable depth and persistence though here, the finish isn’t as awkward. Again, I attribute the slight lack of harmony to the very recent bottling.Burghound | 91 BH

I drink Chassagne “Caillerets” so seldom these days, but there was a time when I was a wine merchant that I probably drank wines from this beautiful premier cru more often than any other in the Côte de Beaune. So, I am always delighted to taste a great example, as is the 2023 from the Fontaine family. The wine is young and still a touch reductive on the nose, but with swirling reveals a beautiful bouquet of lime, pear, apple, a gorgeously complex base of chalky minerality, a hint of fresh almond, spring flowers and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, pure, full-bodied and mineral-driven, with a great core of fruit, superb girdle of acidity, laser-like focus and a very long, complex and racy finish. This wine has perfect balance. (Drink between 2030-2070)John Gilman | 95 JGThe 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru has a very harmonious bouquet, fine mineralité and terroir expression and touches of oyster shell infusing the citrus fruit. The palate is well balanced with a rounded texture. There’s a fine silver bead of acidity here, a little richer in style, fanning out marvelously on the finish. This is excellent.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMSmoky and vaguely exotic aromas include those of white peach, passion fruit, citrus confit and a hint of wet stone. There is evident minerality to the delicious middle weight flavors that possess a lovely texture before delivering excellent length on the balanced finale that, once again, could use better depth. One to consider. (Drink starting 2030)Burghound | 92 BH

The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Vergers 1er Cru has a bright nose with yellow plum, white peach and light sea spray scents that opens beautifully in the glass. The palate is very well balanced and quite intense with a bit more body than other cuvées. It’s a little honeyed toward the finish but the acidity keeps everything in check. This is a charming Chassagne.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeots 1er Cru has a little more mineralité on the nose than the Vergers. Its bouquet contains light hints of clementine and beeswax aromas. The palate is well balanced, fresh and concentrated with a slightly viscous opening. It just needs a little more terroir to shape the finish.Vinous Media | 90 VM

More yellow in the colour, a waxy flesh, slight evolution in the sample, I cannot quite see the stones up front. They do appear on the palate and the wine extends very well through to a flinty finish, with some saline notes right at the back. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted Nov 2024.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JMThe 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet En Cailleret 1er Cru has a strict, almost sullen nose that demands coaxing from the glass, with hints of chamomile interlacing the orchard fruit, though I seek just a little more mineralité. The palate is well balanced with tropical notes of passionfruit and guava on the entry. Smooth in texture with countervailing acidity, the 2023 finishes open and easy-drinking. Drink just a year after bottling and enjoy this in its youth.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

A beautifully layered nose subtly blends notes of poached pear, just sliced apple, spice and a touch of citrus confit. There is an equally beautiful texture to the seductive and caressing medium weight flavors that possess sneaky good length on the balanced finale. This is lovely and while it’s not particularly intense, it remains refreshing and inviting as well as a wine that could be enjoyed on the younger side if desired.Burghound | 92 BHThe 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Chenevottes 1er Cru has a lovely bouquet with citrus peel and light floral scents. It’s a little more reductive than other cuvées, but that’s no bad thing. The palate is well-balanced with a fine bead of acidity, building nicely in the mouth with just a hint of peach skin on the finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMPale lemon and lime. There is a touch of citrus with the minor reduction. Firm at the finish which is no bad thing as there is a considerable volume of white orchard fruit which needs to be kept in place. Easy of access once again. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

The 2024 Chassagne-Montrachet Maltroye 1er Cru has a clean, fresh bouquet with simmering mineralité that comes through with time, a little Puligny-like in style. The palate is well balanced, the one-third new oak neatly integrated, not a powerful Chassagne but there is a sense of nervosité that runs through this wine that I appreciate.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 2024 Chassagne-Montrachet Vergers 1er Cru has an expressive nose with walnut and light fumé scents filtering through the citrus fruit. Good intensity. The palate has a subtle reduction on the entry, good intensity, more citrus-driven than the Clos des Murées with a sorbet-fresh finish that leaves a dab of ginger on the aftertaste. Excellent.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The 2024 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a delightful bouquet with crushed stone infusing the bright citrus fruit, tightly coiled but opening with time in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, quite saline in the mouth with oyster shell on the weighty finish. There is real weight and presence here. No wonder it has the highest sugar level among all the Domaine’s cuvées - the power is palpable in this Criots.Vinous Media | 94-96 VM

The 2024 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos Saint-Jean 1er Cru is very aromatic and generous on the nose, with scents of white flowers, mirabelle and light beeswax aromas that blossom in the glass. The palate is very well balanced, with more body and depth than the Maltroie. Really good mineralité in this Clos Saint-Jean, very persistent in the mouth; this is exactly where the vintage excels in the Côte d’Or. Recommended.Vinous Media | 94 VMPale lemon colour. More biscuit than fruit at first on the nose, though ripe enough. First year for Rebichets replanting. A softer style of white fruit than Chenevottes. A little more depth to the colour, medium length, a little touch of acidity. Drink from 2028-2032. Tasted Oct 2025.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

Pale lemon colour. The bouquet has a little extra concentration, firm footed fruit. The white fruit blossoms rather more on the palate, delivering an attracting middle weight Chassagne, extending further at the finish. The Chenevottes was a little riper at the harvest, coming in at 12% before chaptalisation.Jasper Morris | 92 JM

The 2024 Chassagne-Montrachet Maltroie 1er Cru has a very aromatic and quite floral bouquet, with enticing scents of yellow flower mixed with wild peach and just a hint of acacia in the background. The palate is well balanced with a pleasing texture, a little pithiness coming through, a dash of ginger complementing the dried apricot and orange pith notes. Fine weight on the finish, with more persistence than the Village cru, this should give up to 15 years’ drinking pleasure.Vinous Media | 92 VMPale lemon, a little tension on the nose, some waxed and candied citrus, a little biscuit once again, medium weight, with attractive length. Drink from 2028-2032. Tasted Oct 2025.Jasper Morris | 90 JM

Once again the recent bottling is present in the form of enough reduction to overshadow the fruit but not the wood toast. More interesting are the gorgeously textured, if not super-dense, flavors that possess a succulent mouthfeel along with good power on the lingering and well-balanced finale. Like several wines in the range, this would benefit from developing better depth.Burghound | 92 BH

Once again there is a touch of post-bottling reduction that’s enough to push the fruit to the background. More interesting are the strikingly textured, concentrated and powerful larger-bodied flavors that are borderline aggressively mineral that adds an additional sense of lift to the firm, superbly long and impeccably well-balanced finale. This is a knockout and highly recommended.Burghound | 94 BHMore lemon than yellow in colour, with a limestone upper hillside touch, and just a tendril or two of riper peach notes, notwithstanding that the core is well anchored. The finish fleshes out just a little in this excellent En Remilly. Drink from 2030-2035. Tasted Oct 2025.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JMThe 2024 Chassagne-Montrachet En Remilly 1er Cru has more reduction on the nose, which makes it tricky to read at the moment. The palate is better than the nose thanks to that acidity. Fresh and saline, with just a touch of orange rind and bitter lemon here that together lend tension on the finish. Give it a couple of years in bottle.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

Glowing mid yellow. The bouquet is once again relatively discreet, but the sheer class of La Romanée expresses itself beautifully on the palate. This has more backbone than the others, even Cailleret, while the fruit profile has scarcely formed as yet. I am taking my time to taste this to watch it develop. A little barrel toast comes along as well. Drink from 2030-2035. Tasted Oct 2025.Jasper Morris | 93-95 JMHere too there is just enough post-bottling reduction to push the underlying fruit to the background but again, I doubt that it will last. There is a bit more size and weight to the bigger-bodied flavors that exude both evident minerality and obviously power on the medium dry, focused, balanced and lingering finale that isn’t quite as structured. This could use better depth so a few years of keeping should help.Burghound | 92 BHThe 2024 Chassagne-Montrachet La Romanée 1er Cru is another cuvée that is a tad reserved on the nose, a bit smokier with just a hint of reduction. The palate is well balanced with a bit more "cut" than the En Cailleret, though it remains conservative and linear towards the finish when you are willing it to kick on. Not bad overall though.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

Tasting note not provided. | 93 BH