92-94 Point Wines

wines

(Domaine Dujac Bonnes Mares Grand Cru Red) A broad-ranging and distinctly cool nose features aromas of orange pekoe tea, white flowers, pomegranate and plenty of earthiness, all of which is trimmed in discreet but not invisible wood nuances. There is an equally cool and restrained mouth feel to the big-bodied, intense and muscular flavors that possess outstanding mid-palate concentration along with a beautiful sense of vibrancy and harmony to the gorgeously persistent finish. This overtly powerful effort will also need plenty of patience but should absolutely be worth the wait. (Drink starting 2028).Burghound | 95 BH(Bonnes-Mares- Domaine Dujac) The 2013 Domaine Dujac Bonnes-Mares is excellent, as it offers up a superb bouquet of plums, cherries, gamebirds, a marvelously complex base of soil, woodsmoke, roses, a dollop of fresh thyme and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and very transparent in personality, with fine-grained tannins, lovely focus and a very long, poised and youthful finish. Classic Bonnes-Mares in the making. (Drink between 2025-2075).John Gilman | 95 JGDeep red. Pungent cherry, licorice and wild herbs on the nose, lifted by exhilarating treble notes of blood orange and peony. Sharply delineated and tightly wound, dominated by its structure today. A more savory style than either the Clos Saint-Denis or Clos de la Roche, with dark berry, mineral and wild herb flavors carrying impressively on the extremely long, saline aftertaste.Vinous Media | 94 VMThe 2013 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a beautiful bouquet with superb definition and seamlessly integrated oak, touches of truffle in the background and "mucking around" with the ebullient dark cherry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with silky smooth tannins. There is a fine seam of acidity here, the tannins a little rigid at the moment with a linear but with a precise finish. This is a well-crafted Bonnes-Mares fulfilling exactly what a Bonnes-Mares ought to be. Look forward to seeing how it turns out in bottle.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 93-95 RP-NM

(Clos St. Denis- Domaine Dujac) When we started to taste the quite reserved 2013 Clos St. Denis, Jeremy Seysses chuckled, as he observed that “this wine was wide open yesterday and it was the Clos de la Roche that was shut down, and now today, it is the inverse.” In any case, this closed and grumpy wine is clearly going to be just fine in the fullness of time, as with some coaxing it reluctantly reveals an aromatic constellation of cherries, red plums, cloves, herb tones, woodsmoke, gamebirds, superb soil nuances and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and tightly-knit, with a great soil signature, ripe tannins, bright acids and fine length and grip on the closed, but intensely flavored finish. All this needs is time. (Drink between 2023-2060)John Gilman | 94+ JGFull, dark red. Captivating rose petal lift to the aromas of red fruits, iron and minerals; less earthy and more ethereal than the Clos de la Roche. Also juicier and tighter in the mouth, showing less early sweetness but terrific acid spine and lift to the sappy flavors of raspberry and salty minerals. This wine has really put on weight since its bottling, noted Diane Snowden. But it still boasts terrific cut and inner-mouth tension. Lay this one down.Vinous Media | 94+ VMThe 2013 Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru has a slight reduction on the nose, but underneath that there is a floral note and what appears to be fine minerality. The palate is medium-bodied and takes time to coalesce in the glass, but it eventually finds good structure and an intriguing coconut note on the finish. Quite dense in the mouth, there is an appealing salinity within this Grand Cru, but I would give it 4 or 5 years before broaching a bottle.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 93-95 RP-NM(Domaine Dujac Clos St. Denis Grand Cru Red) This is both more aromatically restrained and more elegant than the Clos de la Roche with its reluctant nose of rose petal, spiced tea and red and dark berry fruit aromas. There is a really lovely mouth feel to the refined middle weight flavors that exude a discreet bead of minerality that adds a bit of lift to the intense, balanced, focused and beautifully balanced finish. Textbook Clos St. Denis. (Drink starting 2025)Burghound | 92-95 BH

The 2013 Charmes-Chambertin from the Drouhin family was one of the few grand crus that I tasted that had already been bottled at the time of my visit in December. This is one of the great, unsung grand crus in the domaine’s portfolio, for though the vines are not owned by the domaine, the family has been buying grapes from this particular vigneron for more than forty years. The 2013 is another outstanding success, offering up a pure and complex nose of cherries, red plums, grilled meats, cocoa, dark soil tones, lovely fresh herb tones and a deft touch of new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, beautifully transparent and tangy, with a lovely core of sappy fruit, great focus and grip and a very long, pure and vibrant finish. Given this was just bottled, it would not surprise me if my score ultimately proves conservative! (Drink between 2023 - 2060)John Gilman | 94+ JGA concentrated, intense red, with cherry, strawberry, iron, tobacco and spice flavors locked up tight within the solid structure. All the components are in the right place, and the finish is long. Just needs time. Best from 2019 through 2032. 15 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

So much purple fruit here like blueberries as well as minerals and black pepper. Full body, firm and silky tannins. Tight and compressed style with great persistence. Better in 2020, but so gorgeous now.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2012 Proprietary Red Blend (79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 4% Malbec and 1% Petit Verdot) is fabulous with complex notes of plum, blackcurrants, blueberries, raspberries, licorice and very subtle background oak followed by a full-bodied, opulently textured wine. This has voluptuous texture, tremendous opulence and is a sexy beast. Perfect purity also highlights this marvelous wine that can be drunk now or cellared for 15 more years.Robert Parker | 94 RPA real knock-out, the 2013 Proprietary Red is just as impressive from bottle as it was from barrel. A wine of tension, energy and opulence, the 2013 has all the signatures of the vintage in spades. Red cherry jam, smoke, licorice, spices and white pepper are some of the notes that meld into the super-expressive, delineated finish. The 2013 is the first vintage of the Proprietary Red that is more than 50% estate, while the rest of fruit was sourced from Stagecoach and Rancho Chimiles.Vinous Media | 94 VMAn amped-up style, with overt blackberry, açaí berry and black currant preserves, though time has settled this down just a touch, allowing for floral, wood spice and apple wood nuances to peek in. On the finish, the toast still holds sway, with roasted cedar and baker’s chocolate having the upper hand on the fruit. Fans of the showy style will dig this, for sure. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Blind 2013 California Cabernet retrospective (February 2023). Drink now through 2030. 4,900 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSA powerfully rich and concentrated Bordeaux-style blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller percentages of four other Bordeaux varieties, this wine presents itself as juicy and fresh on entry, with high-toned sparks of cranberry, cherry and cassis. It takes on more strength and structure as it opens, suggesting its worth for the cellar. Hold until 2023–2028. Wine Enthusiast | 94 WE

Healthy dark red. Highly complex but youthfully restrained nose offers scents of black fruits, violet, chocolate, menthol and minerals, along with some faintly liqueur-like high tones. Boasts outstanding density of texture, not to mention great lift and power for this bottling, with almost exotic fruit ripeness leavened by strong acidity. Finishes with spectacular lingering perfume of violet, bitter chocolate, wild herbs and mint. An amazingly strong, bulletproof Volnay for the year--or for any vintage, for that matter.Vinous Media | 94 VMThis red offers well-defined cherry, currant and spice flavors, supported by vibrant acidity. Saturated with pure, ripe cherry fruit midpalate, this firms up, yet remains balanced and mouthwatering on the long finish, showing spice and chalk accents. Best from 2018 through 2030. 95 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The 2013 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, which will contain some new oak although I tasted from a used barrel, has a tightly knit bouquet that at the moment is less expressive than the Mazis-Chambertin. The palate is crisp and pure, quite tensile, with a spiciness that becomes more prominent toward the fleshy, harmonious finish. Curiously, even from a used barrel the texture feels as if there is some new oak, but that is just the concentration of fruit coming through. Frédéric enthused about this wine and I suspect that it may surpass my expectations once in bottle.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2013 Clos de la Roche from Domaine Rousseau saw ten percent new wood in this vintage, with the remainder of the barrels used for the elevage primarily one wine casks. The wine was a touch reduced at the time of my visit, but opened up with some swirling to reveal a promising bouquet of red and black cherries, meaty tones, dark soil, woodsmoke, a touch of mustard seed and a discreet base of nutty oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, long and very pure on the attack, with a fine core, ripe tannins and a long, youthfully reticent and tangy finish. This will be a lovely vintage for this wine, but like the Mazy, it deserves a decade in the cellar to really come into its own. (Drink between 2023 - 2055)John Gilman | 92-93+ JGAn unusually high-toned nose is comprised by a pretty array of red berry fruit, earth and Asian style tea nuances. There is really lovely detail and vibrancy to the middle weight flavors that exude a fine bead of minerality on the restrained and lingering finish. This delivers surprisingly good flavor authority given that this is not nearly as concentrated as the best in the range. In sum this is a beautifully well-delineated wine of harmony if not power that should reward mid to longer-term aging as the supporting tannins are also dense but fine.Burghound | 91-93 BHThe 2013 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru was impressive from barrel, but in bottle I found it coming up a bit short. Firstly, it is extremely reduced on the nose and after two or three hours there is little change. It is dense and muscular, very concentrated in style (perhaps atypically for this cuvée from Rousseau) and yet the finish feels a bit chunky and lacks finesse. Yes, it is too young, but here it is easily surpassed by Cathiard’s Malconsorts. Tasted at 21 Boulevard restaurant in Beaune.Vinous Media | 90 VM

A blend of crushed plums and cherry sauce is complicated by sage and hints of camphor as the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino opens in the glass. Silky and refined, the 2013 is significantly more energetic and sleek than expected, with masses of tart wild berries and inner herbal tones that saturate. It finishes with medium length and is still lightly structured, leaving a saline tinge and hints of tangerine to slowly fade. This is entering a lovely place in its evolution.Vinous Media | 93 VMMastrojanni’s 2013 Brunello di Montalcino reveals a very precise and focused aromatic profile. This is a signature touch from this outstanding estate that, year in and year out, produces some of the best Brunello you can buy. Wild berries and cherries rise from the bouquet in an elegant flutter. Those tones are followed by spice, leather, rosemary and medicinal herb. The wine is streamlined, polished and smooth in terms of mouthfeel. Some 54,000 bottles were produced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThis is plump, with cherry, plum, iron and tobacco flavors, nicely balanced by a dense matrix of tannins. Tips slightly toward the dry side on the finish, yet stays fresh and long. Best from 2022 through 2036. 1,170 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSAgronomist/oenologist Andrea Machetti has been managing this property since 1992, although it was purchased by the Illy coffee group in 2008. The vineyards are close to Castelnuovo dell’Abate, where the soil is predominantly clay with a complex mix of marine salt, tuff, river pebbles and sand. Besides flavours of tobacco, dried sage and forest berries, this has a saline edge and a tanginess that gives plenty of vibrancy and length. Nicely framed by well-managed tannins.Decanter | 92 DECPlenty of dried fruits on the nose with cedar and flowers that follow through to a full body, layered tannins and an intense finish. Hints of raisins. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 92 JSForest floor, tobacco leaf, new leather and balsamic aromas unfold in the glass. The structured palate delivers dried black cherry, prune marinated in spirits and star anise framed in firm fine-grained tannins. Drink 2021–2028.Wine Enthusiast | 91 WE