92-94 Point Wines

wines

A great wine that has put on considerable weight and continues to show more and more depth and complexity, the dark plum/ruby colored 1996 Pape Clement has a gorgeous nose of barbecue spices intermixed with black currant, plum, coffee, and a hint of white chocolate. The wine is exceptionally rich, fill-bodied, and a fabulous success, particularly in the Pessac-Leognan sector. The tannin is sweet and the wine full-bodied, with tremendous richness and length. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2020. Last tasted, 4/02.Robert Parker | 94 RP(Château Pape Clément) In 1996, Pape Clément was still very much a classically styled claret and the wine shows very good potential to eventually blossom from behind the substantial tannins of the vintage and turn into a lovely wine. The nose is a youthfully complex blend of black cherries, dark berries, tobacco leaf, earth, smoke, dark chocolate and just a touch of spicy new wood. On the palate the wine is deep, fullish and still quite primary, with lovely focus, very good mid-palate depth, firm, but well-integrated tannins and lovely length and grip on the chocolaty finish. This should prove to be a lovely example of the vintage and it will be interesting to see if it always retains a bit of a firm edge from ‘96s massive tannins, or if this eventually blossoms into a classic example of Pape Clément . (Drink between 2018-2050)John Gilman | 91+ JGFull ruby-red. Superripe aromas of roasted plum, black raspberry, woodsmoke and humus. Dense and rather unevolved, but with sound acidity giving it excellent vinosity. Full, quite dry and serious; the substantial dusty tannins coat the entire palate.Vinous Media | 91 VM

Surprisingly lively and fresh, this is still a seriously impressive wine. The high proportion of Semillon is now coming to dominate the Sauvignon, to give a wine that is finely shaped, full of creamy flavors of wood and some white peach. In 10 years, this will still be fresh, in 15 just mature.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEComplex aromas of blackberries, tobacco and cedar follow through to a full-bodied palate, with ripe, velvety tannins and a long, caressing finish. Very beautiful. Best after 2009.Wine Spectator | 93 WSGood ruby-red. Redcurrant, plum, tobacco and flowers on the nose. Suave and light on its feet, with excellent integrated acidity framing and extending the flavors. Classy and classic wine, finishing with ripe, building tannins. This would be perfect with a cigar. Today Delmas and Masclet prefer this 2002 to the 2001 Haut-Brion, but for La Mission they give the edge to the 2001.Vinous Media | 92+ VM

An undeniable success as well as a candidate for the Graves of the vintage in 2002, the 2002 Pape Clement boasts a deep ruby/purple color in addition to notes of smoke, hot bricks, scorched earth, red and black currants, and some high-class cigar tobacco. It is medium to full-bodied with a rich, textured mouthfeel, wonderful sweetness, ripeness of tannin, and a long finish with hints of plums, licorice, and subtle barrique. It should drink well for 15-18 years. No property in Bordeaux is pushing the envelope of quality as hard and as enthusiastically as proprietor Bernard Magrez’s Chateau Pape Clement. This is a fabulous terroir in the suburbs of Bordeaux, several miles from the area’s two legends - Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion.Robert Parker | 93 RPA hugely toasty wine, one that tastes more like a California Chardonnay than a blend of Sauvignon, Semillon and Muscadelle. It works, because it is a great, rich wine, with balanced, ripe fruit, acidity and crisp fruit flavors. Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEMedium red-ruby. Black raspberry, mocha, tobacco and nutty oak aromas. Suave, silky and full, with complex flavors of raspberry, minerals, gravel and woodsmoke. Unusually plump for the vintage, yet also firmly built and quite primary. An excellent showing.Vinous Media | 91 VM

This is a giant wine with lots of muscular tannins and rich fruit. Full and beautiful, very ‘Cabernet’ with currants and spices in the forefront. Broad shouldered, with notes of fresh mushrooms, pure fruit, souis bois, and a very long, long finish. This shows incredible class for the vintage. Robert de Luxembourg says it reminds him of the 1975 vintage with the powerful tannins. Pull the cork after 2015.James Suckling | 95 JSAromas of blackberry, tobacco and hints of oak. Full-bodied, with lots of silky and round tannins and a long finish. Lots going on here. Layered and powerful. Best after 2010. 460 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSEvery year, this estate turns in a wine which closely rivals the neighboring Haut-Brion. This year, the rivalry is just as intense. This has sweet, ripe, beautiful fruit, delicious acidity already. But wait for the tannins to kick in.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEThe 2003 La Mission Haut-Brion shows more creme de cassis, plenty of cedar wood, melted licorice and charcoal in a medium to full-bodied wine. It is a blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc. Rustic tannins in the back knock down the ultimate pleasure, and the point score, ever so slightly, but there’s no doubting the complex, perfumey, noble aromatics this wine has managed to attain despite the staggering heat and drought in June, July and August. This has reached full maturity, but should hold nicely for another 7-10 years.Here’s a case where the second wine comes very close in quality to its bigger sibling, possibly because it is showing great complexity and is even more evolved than the Mission Haut-Brion. 2003 was tough in the Pessac-Leognan because of the lighter soils and the enormous heat and drought. Hence, the harvest here started in mid-August, which was historic.Robert Parker | 93 RPThe 2003 La Mission Haut-Brion is one of the few examples of this infamous vintage that has improved in bottle, though it’s still far from a first- or even second-tier La Mission. My most recent bottle displays all the tropes of that hot summer: black cherries, fig, singed leather and cooked meats. It does not have the delineation of the best vintages. The palate is reasonably well balanced with sweet black fruit, still displaying those fennel and garrigue notes. The finish is opulent yet slightly monotone. Tasted at a private dinner in Bordeaux.Vinous Media | 90 VM

The palate opens slowly, offering an initial citrus character, followed by wood and then, finally, wonderfully rich, but taut fruit. There is still a toast character here, with apricots and pear on top of the citrus, but it is still only just developing. In 10–15 years, it will be a magnificent wine.Wine Enthusiast | 98 WETasted at BI Wine & Spirits' 10-Years-On tasting, the 2007 Haut Brion has a perfumed bouquet with abundant red fruit, sage, sandalwood and black olive scents that just seem to soar from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, beautifully judged acidity and a gentle build in the mouth towards the savory/meaty finish. There is class interwoven into this Haut Brion from start to finish, and the persistence is very impressive. This is just reaching its drinking plateau. Tasted February 2017.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 94 RP-NMBright ruby-red. Pure but youthfully inexpressive nose hints at raspberry and tobacco after extended aeration. Sweet, suave and pliant, with a silky texture perked up by minerality and lifted by a spicy component. Really lovely consistent ripeness here, showing neither roasted nor green qualities. Took on a more floral character with air. This superbly elegant wine really saturates the palate and lingers. Tannins are fine and sweet.Vinous Media | 94 VMThe 2007 Haut Brion is outstanding, and shows the forward, sexy, charming style of the vintage nicely. A blend of 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, and the balance Cabernet Franc, it offers loads of upfront black fruits, tar, asphalt, and tobacco leaf aromas and flavors. With medium-bodied richness, silky tannin, and beautiful balance, it’s drinking nicely today yet has 15-20 years of life ahead of it.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDThere's beautiful sweetness of fruit on the nose, with floral and ripe plum undertones. Very aromatic and subtle. Medium- to full-bodied, with fine tannins and a delicate fruit finish. Refined. Best after 2013.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

Sweet berry and sweet tobacco with chocolate and orange peel on the nose. Full and velvety tannins and long finish. Gorgeous. Creamy texture. Try in 2016.James Suckling | 94 JSA plush, modern style version, with a rounded feel to the spice-tinged structure that supports the fleshy blackberry and raspberry confiture flavors. Fruitcake and dark anise chime in the background and echo through the suave, well-coated finish. Best from 2014 through 2025. 5,800 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WSThe second wine, the 2009 La Chapelle de la Mission, is essentially an equal part blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with slightly more Cabernet Franc that came in at 14.2% natural alcohol. It reveals an extraordinary meaty nose displaying hints of volcanic soils, burning embers, sweet black currants, blueberries, plums, tobacco leaf and wet stones. This tasty, full-bodied, supple-textured beauty should drink well for 15-20 years.Robert Parker | 91 RPDeep ruby. Deep, complex nose of blackcurrant, coffee and fresh herbs. Similarly complex on the palate, offering rich yet fresh flavors of black fruits, aromatic herbs and cocoa along with a hint of violet. This long, youthfully chewy wine is much bigger than the very good 2008. Like La Mission, this has improved greatly since the Primeurs, when I probably underrated it by a point or two. Don’t think I’m crazy when I tell you that this wine is very close in quality to some La Missions from lesser vintages of the past.Vinous Media | 91 VM

Vivid and bright fruits, such as plums and strawberries, on the nose. Full-bodied, very dense and complete on the palate. Has a beautiful ripe tannin structure and a flavorful finish. Impressive wine. Drink in 2022.James Suckling | 94 JSMedium garnet-purple, the 2015 Ferran is scented of warm red plums, red currant jelly and mulberries with touches of garrigue, violets and fragrant earth. Medium-bodied, very firm and very ripe with grainy tannins and wonderful freshness, it has loads of perfumed layers and a minerally finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPHighly extracted bilberry and cassis with silky if bristling tannins. Good potential, lovely sense of vibrancy and a coffee finish. 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot. 33% new oak. Drinking Window 2022 - 2032.Decanter | 90 DEC

The 2019 Le Petit Smith Haut Lafitte is fabulous. Rich, powerful and vibrant, Le Petit packs a serious punch. Readers will have a hard time keeping their hands off this jewel of a wine. Black cherry, plum, new leather, licorice, mocha and dried herbs build as this effusive, generous wine shows off its racy, alluring personality. I loved it.Antonio Galloni | 94 AG(Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Le Petit Smith Haut Lafitte, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, Red) Green bell pepper, eucalyptus, dark chocolate and perfumed cherries and blackcurrants on the nose - so much aromatic intensity. Immediate impact on the palate with weighty tannins that are ample and mouthcoating giving the softly sweet raspberry and red cherry flavours structure and grip. A juicy core is offset by hints of wood spice which linger on the finish so this needs more time but there is excellent vibrancy and life here and strong markers of the vintage and terroir. (Drink between 2026-2046)Decanter | 94 DECSpices, such as cloves and white pepper, with violets and dark fruit follow through to a full body with firm, chewy tannins and a polished yet intense finish. Open tannins. An ash-like undertone to it. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 94 JSThe more Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated second wine, the 2019 Le Petit Haut Lafitte is dense purple. with a promising bouquet of cassis, cedary spice, tobacco leaf, and background oak. It picks up some classic Graves scorched earth notes as it sits in the glass and is medium to full-bodied, has a concentrated, layered, balanced mouthfeel, and a great finish. A serious, impressive wine, it will benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age and drink brilliantly over the following 10-15.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDBarrel Sample. As one of the two second wines from this organic estate, Cabernet Sauvignon dominates this wine. It has structured black currant fruits as well as a beautiful pure line of acidity. The structure, while there, is open and integrated, meaning the wine will age well over the medium-term. Wine Enthusiast | 93 WERipe and silky, with alluring warmed cassis and mulled plum flavors and a red licorice accent. The finish, which is carried by lightly singed cedar and grilled savory notes, lets the fruit have the upper hand. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink now through 2031. 6,000 cases made, 1,500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WSMore serious than the forward Les Hauts de Smith, the 2019 Le Petit Haut Lafitte contains only 40% Merlot, with the balance Cabernet Sauvignon. Exhibiting aromas of crème de cassis, sweet berries, cocoa nib, pencil shavings and loamy soil, it’s medium to full-bodied, lively and concentrated, with a more structured, reserved profile but more incipient complexity too.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90+ RP