95-97 Point Wines

wines

I have always been a very big fan of the Romanée-St.-Vivant from Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat, but now that the new wood here has been reduced to fifty percent, the expression of the underlying, magical terroir of this great grand cru has really jumped to the fore. I wish other owners of RSV could take their cue from this domaine, as it seems to me if there was ever a terroir in Vosne-Romanée that begged for smaller percentages of new wood, it is RSV. The 2011 version from Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat is stunning, offering up a beautiful nose of sappy raspberries and cherries, Vosne spice tones, a touch of woodsmoke, great minerality, cedar and a pungent topnote of roses. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, strikingly pure and rock solid at the core, with a lovely sappiness and transparency, ripe tannins and a very long, tangy and still quite primary finish. This will be a great, great wine in the fullness of time. (Drink between 2024 - 2075)John Gilman | 96 JGThe 2011 Romanée Saint-Vivant Grand Cru was just about to enter its drinking plateau. Gentle and leafy on the nose, there is a sense of rusticity here that complements the broody red berry fruit, almost Richebourg-like after five to ten minutes in the glass. The palate is finely balanced with tart red cherry fruit infused with sous-bois. I like the bitter edge that comes through on the finish, an approachable grand cru that is probably not going to be the longest lasting of the domaine’s wines but will give much pleasure over the next 12-15 years. Tasted November 2016.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPMedium red. Very ripe, slightly exotic aromas of raspberry, mocha and underbrush. Highly concentrated and deep; opulent and lightly saline but a bit sullen today. Most impressive right now on the very long, slowly mounting finish, which really camps out on the palate. Vinified with 20% whole clusters but I never would have guessed it from this sample.Vinous Media | 92+ VMAn appealingly fresh nose combines various spice elements that include a prominent herbal tea character along with hoisin, red currant, plum and violet scents. There is a fleshy yet precise character to the brilliantly detailed and lilting flavors that are akin to pure silk on the palate, all wrapped in a gorgeously persistent finish. This is certainly very pretty yet it hasn’t developed the depth that I originally imagined that it would and I have lowered my score accordingly. To be fair, this has not yet peaked yet it’s not so far away from its apex that I have difficulty seeing quite that much improvement in such a short period of time. I would further note that there is noticeable gas on the finish so I would suggest giving this a thorough aeration first. Tasted twice in the last year with consistent notes.Burghound | 91 BH

This beautiful Amoureuses still has a fresh lightish purple. The aromatics stand up very well to the accompanying black truffle and mushroom risotto. Indeed, the wine was so open for business that it was tempting to gulp it down. No pyrazines on show, instead the essence of grace with a significantly sensual feel. Even from this relatively ascetic producer. Tasted: January 2019.Jasper Morris | 95 JMDespite the 2011 Amoureuses chez Mugnier being ready for a racking and just a touch reduced, it is pretty easy to see that this will be a marvelous wine. Underneath the dollop of reduction is a beautiful blend of red and black cherries, blood orange, beautiful minerality, woodsmoke and gamebirds. On the palate the wine is deep, fullish, pure and very soil-driven, with superb intensity of flavor, a sappy core, tangy acids and excellent focus and grip on the very long, suavely-tannic and stunning finish. An utterly classic bottle of Amoureuses in the making. (Drink between 2020 - 2050)John Gilman | 93-94 JGTasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. After a misfiring bottle in Holland, it is pleasing to find what I feel is a more representative example. Here, the Chambolle-Musigny les Amoureuses ‘11 has a precise and delineated bouquet with touches of seaweed infusing the red and black fruit. It is more reserved than other Amoureuses but no less compelling. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, outstanding tension and a very focused, mineral-laden finish that is quite conservative and almost austere. But still, it should repay 3-4 years in bottle and then continue to deliver long after.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2011 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru has a finely tuned, quite detailed bouquet with rose petals and violets infusing the blueberry and crushed strawberry aromas. It has the charm and sensuality one seeks from this auspicious vineyard. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, fine grain tannin. This feels sleek and sensual in the mouth, although it does not possess the depth and structure of a top-drawer example from this propitious vineyard. Drinking beautifully now, I would consume this within the next decade. Tasted at Flint Wines Burgundy 2011 tasting.Vinous Media | 92 VMA curious and highly atypical nose displays somewhat dull and listless plum, spice and floral aromas. By contrast there is a better sense of energy and strikingly good detail to the penetratingly mineral-driven medium-bodied flavors that display an incredibly refined and ultra-pure mouth feel on the deeply complex and persistent finish. This is a bit of a head scratcher as it was notably better from cask. In any event my score offers the benefit of the doubt that it will harmonize in time but suffice it to say that it did not show very well on the day of my visit.Burghound | 91 BH

The 2012 vintage of Clos de la Roche from Domaine Dujac is still a very, very young wine, but it is going to be magnificent in the fullness of time. Today it offers up superb purity and transparency, though still a tad marked by its new oak component in this very early stage. The bouquet is a fine, fine blend of red and black cherries, plums, raw cocoa, a fine base of soil and plenty of smoky new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and marvelously soil-driven for such a young wine, with a sappy core of fruit, fine focus and grip and a very long, suavely tannic finish. The balance here is just perfect, and once the new wood is fully integrated into the base of the wine, it will probably close down for an extended period of hibernation. I would not touch it again until it has celebrated its twentieth birthday- not because it is not going to be impressive to drink younger- but there is so much waiting in the wings here that it is crazy not to give this great wine time to develop all aspects of its beauty! Drink between 2032-2075.John Gilman | 96 JGDujac's 2012 Clos de La Roche bristles with palpable energy and intensity. One of the more polished wines in the range, the Clos de la Roche is all about saline-infused energy and brilliance today. I very much like the precision here, but time has shown that the Clos de la Roche only starts to blossom with considerable bottle age. Today, the layers of dimension are present, but also compacted. In a few years, the 2012 will be truly magical.Vinous Media | 96 VMThere is enough reduction to notice though not so much as to completely dominate the floral-suffused nose. This also possesses relatively fine-grained tannins though there is notably more size, weight and power as well as a bit more complexity to the mineral-driven and impeccably well-balanced finish that is both explosive and palate staining. This is most impressive as it manages to deliver stunning intensity and depth of material without any undue heaviness. Note however that this is one very structured wine that will require a lengthy stay in a cool cellar to arrive at its full peak. (Drink starting 2030)Burghound | 95 BHThe 2012 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru had a lot of reduction on the nose, but the palate tannic and masculine, dark and introspective yet well balanced with a crescendo of flavors towards an energetic, spicy finish that leave the tongue tingling after the wine has departed. This looks like being a vin de garde, such is the grip and forcefulness of this wine.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 94-96 RP-NM

A heady, exotic Burgundy, the 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques is remarkably vivid for such a big wine, with freakish levels of concentration that are beautifully balanced by insistent veins of underlying minerality. Layers of pure Pinot fruit build through the mid-palate and finish as this voluptuous, racy wine shows off its fabulous pedigree. It simpy doesn't get too much better than this.Vinous Media | 97 VM(Gevrey-Chambertin “Clos St. Jacques”- Domaine Armand Rousseau) The 2012 Clos St. Jacques chez Rousseau is another simply brilliant wine, and I was starting to get a bit worried, as I was already beginning to run out of numbers and I still had the Clos de Bèze and Chambertin to go! In any case, the 2012 Clos St. Jacques is a stellar example of the vintage, wafting from the glass in a stunning and very flamboyant nose of red plums, red and black cherries, cocoa, hints of the grilled meats to come, a brilliantly complex base of soil tones, exotic spices and vanillin oak. I think this wine was raised in sixty percent new wood this year, but the depth of fruit has positively eaten up the impression of new oak, and if you told me it was raised in twenty percent new oak, I would think that it was probably just about right! On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and stunningly suave on the attack, with a great core of sappy fruit, a very refined sense of soil, fine-grained tannins, outstanding focus and grip and a very, very long, unrepentantly elegant and velvety finish. The synthesis here of soil and gloriously sappy fruit is remarkable. (Drink between 2022-2060).John Gilman | 96 JG(Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin "Clos St. Jacques" 1er Cru Red) There is a deft touch of wood to the reluctant but ultra-elegant essence of red pinot fruit, floral elements and wet stone scents. This is splendidly well-detailed with a terrific sense of underlying tension adding energy to the medium weight flavors that brim with a fine minerality before culminating in a balanced and stunningly long finish. This ageworthy effort is the most refined wine among these four 2012s and dances across the palate. In a word, dazzling. (Drink starting 2027).Burghound | 95 BHTasted blind at the annual 'Burgfest' tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint Jacques from Armand Rousseau has the most sensual nose of the quintet, perhaps the ripest with maraschino cherries, fresh strawberry and fruits pastilles. This is certainly the most generous nose. The palate is medium-bodied with supple ripe tannin, more modern in style but very pure and harmonious. The oak is a little more pronounced on the finish but that will be subsumed in time, and then it will be a Clos Saint Jacques that you'll wish you could drink every day.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 95 RP-NM

The 2012 Richebourg was just a touch reduced at the time of my visit, but underneath is another legend in the making. The bouquet is a blend of cherries, red plums, cocoa, gamebirds, a very minerally signature of soil, woodsmoke, fresh nutmeg and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and very sappy at the core, with stunning depth, fine-grained tannins, superb precision and a very, very long and tangy finish. This is a very elegant and refined vintage of the Hudelot Richebourg and it will be one of the greatest wines ever produced in the long history of this illustrious domaine. (Drink between 2025 - 2075)John Gilman | 97 JGThe 2012 Richebourg Grand Cru, which comes from a 0.28-hectare parcel planted in 1950, this year contains 20% whole bunches and the domaine were graced with five barrels. It has a very refined and distinctly aristocratic bouquet adorned with beautifully defined black and red fruits, perhaps leaning towards the former with aeration. Touches of seaweed and tilled earth emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins. It does not have the charm of the RSV at the moment, but there is beguiling structure and symmetry with a long mineral laden finish. Superb.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96-98 RPBright medium red. Darker and more primary on the nose than the RSV, showing lovely lift to the aromas of dark berries, violet and minerals. Quite tight and high-pitched in the mouth, with strong, ripe acidity accentuating the impression of density. The crop level here was a bit higher than that of the RSV, at 30 hectoliters per hectare, but the wine is still wonderfully sappy, taut and concentrated, not to mention beautifully balanced. Lovely lurking saline minerality here. Lay this one down for a decade.Vinous Media | 94+ VMThere is a whiff of reduction lurking in the background of the otherwise pretty and spicy red and dark berry fruit aromas that include hints of Asian-style tea, cinnamon and sandalwood. The middle weight flavors possess a sleek and nicely intense mouth feel along with good detail on the lightly stony, delicious and sneaky long finale. For my taste, while this solidly powerful effort could certainly be enjoyed now, there remains enough upside development potential to warrant holding it for another 5 to 8 years. Lovely and fashioned in an understated style.Burghound | 94 BH

The 2012 Romanée-St.-Vivant from Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat is glorious example of both this great terroir and this historic vintage. The very pure and very sappy nose soars from the glass in a mélange of red and black raspberries, cherries, roses, fresh nutmeg, orange zest, Vosne spices, a very, very complex base of soil tones, duck and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and sappy at the core, with a greater sense of reserve (or is that resolve?) than the Clos Vougeot, very elegant tannins, tangy acids and laser-like focus on the perfectly balanced, elegant and endless finish. Glorious juice! (Drink between 2022 - 2065)John Gilman | 97 JGThe 2012 Romanee-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru comes from 0.48-hectares of vine planted back in 1920 It already boasts a show-stopping mineral-rich bouquet that offers astounding definition and focus. Terroir, terroir and terroir. The palate is medium-bodied with superb definition and so much freshness it does not know what to do with itself. Beautifully focused, refined and feminine, this might be the quintessential R.S.V. of the vintage.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96-98 RPA buoyantly spicy nose displays elegant aromas of red currant, raspberry, sandalwood and soft floral nuances. As is almost always the case chez Hudelot this possesses the most refined mouth feel in the range with ultra-fine grained tannins adding to this impression. Notwithstanding the refinement exhibited by the mid-palate, the strikingly long and well-balanced finish seems to flirt with a touch of rusticity. Whether this quality will persist is hard to say but it would be fair to observe that 2012 isn’t the most refined vintage that I have ever seen for this wine.Burghound | 94 BH(totally destemmed but the stems were then added back for the vinification): Bright medium red. Knockout nose combines strawberry, raspberry, licorice, underbrush, spices and flowers. Plush and sweet but electric in the mouth, conveying terrific concentration to its sappy red fruit and spice flavors. The stems have contributed piquant energy but no herbacity. Finishes with firm but fine tannins and terrific building length. Made from a crop level of about 25 hectoliters per hectare, this wine should blossom beautifully in the cellar.Vinous Media | 93+ VM

The 2012 vintage is not one that I reach for right now, as this low yield and truly stunning vintage has been in deep hibernation for a few years already. This was true of the 2012 Chapelle-Chambertin from Cécile Tremblay, and yet its enormous potential was also manifest when she generously opened a bottle at the domaine in March. The very youthful bouquet is bottomless and loaded with sweet fruit and great soil signature, delivering a constellation of black cherries, sweet dark berries, gamebird, dark soil tones and smoky new oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and very sappy at the core, with great focus, length and grip, ripe, buried tannins and a very, very long, still quite primary finish. This has the same potential for elegance and perfume as the stellar 2014 Chapelle here, but even more depth and length! A brilliant, brilliant young wine, but do not touch it for at least another decade! (Drink between 2029 - 2100)John Gilman | 97 JGTremblay’s daughter was born on July 28, and her new winery building was completed on September 10, in time for the beginning of harvest on September 15—so this was a busy year for Cécile. The 2012 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru is developing beautifully, having shed a touch of youthful reduction it exhibited on release to reveal, today, a youthful bouquet of wild berries, rose hips, exotic spices, musk and vine smoke. Full-bodied, velvety and textural, it’s a deep, powerful wine with lively acids and beautifully refined tannins. One of the least-evolved wines from this period of Tremblay’s career, the 2012 will continue to reward patience.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RP(95% vendange entier): Medium red. Knockout deep nose combines small red fruits, sexy vanillin oak, a distinctly wild animal quality, soil tones and a note of menthol. Powerful but youthfully closed, with intense raspberry and strawberry fruit flavors complicated by sweet spices and a rocky quality. The explosive, ripely tannic finish builds and mounts. This soil-driven grand cru will need patience.Vinous Media | 93+ VMAn interesting and slightly atypical nose displays notes of wild strawberry, lavender, warm earth, spice and a hint of underbrush. The wonderfully precise and almost painfully intense big-bodied yet elegant flavors possess both plenty of minerality and underlying tension before culminating in a balanced, gorgeously complex and seriously long finish. This is distinctly austere at present but the ripeness is such that it shouldn’t last.Burghound | 92-95 BH

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru les Amoureuses from Christophe Roumier was showing just a touch of TCA on the nose. Yet the quality of this Amoureuses was not obscured, particularly on the beautifully structured palate that feels so long and tender. Damn those corks that try to ruin what is a fantastic wine clearly visible underneath.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPBright dark red. Pungent, high-pitched aromas and flavors of crushed raspberry, blood orange, white pepper and smoky minerals; this one has those ineffable high notes only a dog can hear. At once dense and bracing, showing razor-sharp definition and outstanding savory sappiness. This wonderfully taut, fine-grained Amoureueses finishes with almost painful rising length and chewy, utterly palate-staining intensity. Should be a cellar classic.Vinous Media | 96 VMAn exuberantly spicy nose combines both red and black pinot liqueur-like fruit, sandalwood, anise, violets and plum scents. There is a beguiling sense of freshness and energy to the very firmly mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors that exhibit terrific delineation and outstanding depth on the strikingly long finish. This is the picture of refinement from tip to toe and should also age impressively well. In a word, terrific.Burghound | 96 BHThere are only four barrels this year of this magical elixir, so starting pleading with your Roumier merchant right now! The brilliant, pure and sappy nose delivers an exhilarating blend of black cherries, damsons, cocoa, gamebirds, kaleidoscopic soil tones, violets, a hint of nutskin and just a whisper of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and very, very deep and transparent, with a sappy core, supreme elegance, fine-grained tannins and brilliant length and grip on the laser-like finish. A great wine. (Drink between 2025 - 2065)John Gilman | 96+ JGA dense version, marked by black cherry, earth and mint flavors. This features a nice beam of acidity and a tensile frame, ending with a stony accent. Shows a fine sense of place. Racy, firm and long, this gets better with air. Best from 2018 through 2032. 15 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Musigny Vielles Vignes Grand Cru from de Vogüé has slightly brighter and more vivacious fruit than J-F Mugnier, and in fact, the two wines seem to go in two different trajectories in the glass, this blossoming and the other becoming more occluded. De Vogüé’s Musigny is unashamedly floral in style, very elegant and yet delineated. There is a noticeable estuary scents, mudflats and seaweed, that begin to permeate the fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannin, wonderful acidity and succinctly integrated new oak that is barely tangible. It is intense but elegant, long and tender in the mouth. It is a fabulous Musigny, one of the best that the domaine has produced in recent years.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPA brooding but gorgeously spicy nose is comprised of liqueur-like dark berry fruit scents that also display plenty of floral influence that includes notes of lavender, violet and, somewhat curiously, honeysuckle. There is outstanding concentration and punch to the seductively textured and marvelously intense big-bodied flavors that are borderline robust as the supporting tannins are dense but refined. I really like the Zen-like sense of harmony to the explosively long and pungent mineral-driven finish that really stains the palate. This is flat out remarkable.Burghound | 97 BHThe 2012 Musigny Vieilles Vignes from the Comte de Vogüé is also a brilliant wine in the making. The deep, pure and nascently complex nose wafts from the glass in a stunning blend of red and black cherries, raspberries, red plums, cocoa, a stunning base of soil tones, hints of the smokiness to come, pungent (morning) violets and a discreet base of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and perfectly focused, with a sappy core of fruit, glorious transparency, fine-grained tannins and impeccable balance on the very, very long, pure and perfectly focused finish. A great wine. (Drink between 2025 - 2075)John Gilman | 97 JGDeep, bright red. Brilliantly complex, focused nose offers scents of redcurrant, blueberry, crushed stone, spices, red licorice, menthol and botanical herbs. Boasts extraordinary sweetness and depth to its chewy, sappy red and dark fruit flavors. Really bulletproof fruit here! Spreads out on the back half to saturate every square millimeter of the palate, finishing with penetrating berry fruit and salty minerality. Remarkably long and tactile.Vinous Media | 96+ VMFractionally more evolution to the colour compared to their Bonnes Mares. The bouquet is reserved but suggest great depth. There is a sensuality to the nose, and an assured length, but still we are waiting. This will grow from here, and has the weight of sensual fruit that we want, albeit for the moment in abeyance. Tasted Jun 2022.Jasper Morris | 94 JM

(13% alcohol; 60% new oak): Bright medium red. Very ripe aromas of black raspberry, smoky minerality and dried flowers. Plush, highly concentrated, outsized wine, combining grand cru volume with a surprisingly airy texture. Finishes with wonderfully suave tannins that saturate the entire palate and give shape to the wine’s fruit. Really outstanding soil-driven depth here.Vinous Media | 95 VMGorgeous texture with plush, velvety tannins and focused flavours. A stunning Malconsorts that has vibrant intensity. (Drink between 2019 - 2026)Decanter | 93 DECThis was sufficiently reduced to hide the fruit though not so much that the floral characters could not be perceived. This is a big wine even by the considerable standards of a classic Malconsorts with an overt muscularity to the concentrated yet impressively refined mouth feel to the utterly delicious flavors that are shaped by markedly firm tannins that are so well buffered by the rich dry extract that the wonderfully persistent finish is once again not especially austere. This should be excellent if given at least 7 to 10 years in a cool cellar though note that it should continue to improve for several years after that.Burghound | 92-94 BH

(this special cuvee is made from the southernmost of Faiveley’s three parcels in Clos de Beze; five barrels, three of them new): Good bright red. Very closed nose hints at rose petal and cinnamon. Wonderfully silky and sweet on the palate, with outstanding definition to the perfumed red raspberry and spice flavors. Finishes with explosive rising length and racy, fine-grained tannins. In its kernel of spice and its superb density and thrust, there’s something Musigny-like about this understated but potentially great wine.Vinous Media | 96+ VMThis is similar to the regular cuvée save for two aspects: this is a bit riper and notably more complex. The large-scaled flavors are also more concentrated with seemingly endless reserves of palate staining dry extract that also buffers the extremely firm tannic spine on the explosively long, balanced and powerful finish. This is stunningly good with massive potential though again, note that plenty of patience will be required.Burghound | 94-96 BH

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru les Amoureuses from Domaine Robert Groffier was perhaps the biggest, and I should add, pleasant surprise of this marathon tasting. Whereas once I felt the wines could be over-extracted and too alcoholic, here was a wine that exuded elegance, finesse and terroir. It has a well-defined bouquet, raspberry and black berry fruit intermingling with black truffle and sous-bois scents. The palate is very "serious" on the entry, saline on the entry with touches of bitter cherry, brambly black fruit and a little tar. There is certainly very fine structure here and superb balance, although patience will be needed. What a fabulous example of the vintage. Bravo Nicolas Groffier!Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RP(25% whole clusters): Bright medium red. Deep but reticent aromas of wild red berries, red cherry, cocoa powder and mint. Sweet and plush on entry, then savory and perfumed in the middle, with slightly high-toned raspberry and spice flavors lifted by notes of crushed stone, red licorice and flowers. Boasts considerable volume and density but finishes with a firm edge of acidity and a suggestion of peppery tannins. I would not be surprised if this wine evolved relatively quickly.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 2013 Romanée Saint Vivant Grand Cru has a gorgeous bouquet with vibrant red berry fruit, wilted rose petals, a touch of lavender coming through with time. There is real vigor and generosity here. The palate is medium-bodied with quite a firm structure. There is wonderful depth and body that forms the foundation of this wine, coming across a little more masculine than the 2014, exerting a firm grip with a slightly curmudgeonly finish that just needs time to mellow. This is excellent.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2013 Romanée-St.-Vivant from Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat was another late malo finisher and the wine was still on the grumpy side at the time of my visit, with a fairly expressive nose currently coupled to an out of sorts palate impression, but this will clearly be outstanding. The bouquet offers up a fabulous constellation of raspberries, cherries, blood orange, beautiful spice tones, lavender, complex soil nuances, fresh nutmeg and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, pure and quite poised (despite its grumpy nature at the time of my visit), with fine mid-palate depth, nascently complexity, ripe tannins and superb length and grip on the tangy finish. This is going to be very, very special when it reaches its zenith. (Drink between 2025 - 2075)John Gilman | 95-97 JGDeep red with ruby highlights. Sexy aromas and flavors of primary dark berries, black raspberry and cocoa powder complicated by spicy oak tones. Thick yet lively on entry; a youthfully imploded but utterly seamless wine with outstanding energy and depth. For all its density, this tactile, saline wine shows a magically light touch. Really builds and lingers on the superb rising finish, which features noble tannins. Still a baby, this grand cru has a great future.Vinous Media | 94+ VMRelative to the expressive example that I originally reviewed, this has begun to shut down and the nose is now brooding and only grudgingly gives up its spiced aromas of plum, dark currant and violets that are trimmed in hints of Asian-style tea and sandalwood. The sleek and ultra-refined mouth feel adds substantially to the sense of elegance though the balance is slightly impaired due to a tangy finish that is mildly lean and drying. This is without question quite classy but it’s not without a nit or two.Burghound | 91 BH

The biggest, richest wine in the lineup is the 327-case 2013 Pinot Noir Selleck Vineyard, which comes from the 4.8-acre Selleck Vineyard (this is one of the warmer terroirs on the estate). It was harvested from September 24th to October 4th, spending 18 months in 30% new puncheons before being bottled unfiltered. This is a blockbuster, rich, concentrated and textured Pinot Noir that has bright acidity, a huge core of fruit and layers of framboise, red currants, forest floor, mint, dried flowers and exotic spices. Needing air to show at its best, this beauty is up with the 2012 and absolutely one of the finest Pinot Noirs coming out of California. This totally profound wine will be better in a year or two and drink well for over a decade.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPA wild, exotic wine, Calera’s 2013 Pinot Noir Selleck Vineyard is spectacularly rich, flamboyant and intense. Beams of tannin and phenolics give the wine its structural backbone and more than enough structure to handle the intense, super-ripe fruit. Today, the 2013 is very, very young. I can’t wait to see how it ages.Vinous Media | 97 VMFragrant lilacs and plump mulberries mix with black clove, allspice, pine needles and dark earth tones on this bottling by Josh Jensen from this 4.8-acre vineyard. The palate presents hearty sagebrush spice and an easily enjoyable character of black cherry that lead into the more complex pine sap, bay leaf, wild thyme and euclalytpus components.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEAn exuberant style, with an expressive mix of zesty blackberry and wild berry fruit, offering alluring floral scents of violet and spice. Holds focus and glides along gracefully on the finish, where the tannins give the flavors traction. Drink now through 2022. 317 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WSThere is a whiff of menthol sitting atop the overtly spicy and notably ripe essence of red pinot fruit and cherry-scented nose. The very rich, concentrated and sappy big-bodied flavors possess excellent size, weight and power while delivering fine length on the palate coating finish that also evidences just a touch of tannic edginess. This is very firmly structured and very clearly built-to-age, indeed this is going to need it. I should further observe that this manages to carry its elevated level of alcohol quite well, indeed there is only a trace of warmth. Note well though that patience will definitely be required. In sum, if your taste runs to big and bold, this qualifies.Burghound | 91 BH

Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru was showing some quality new oak on the nose that still needs to be subsumed. It is tightly coiled but it just needs time because there is freshness, definition and beguiling complexity locked in here. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, very well judged acidity and clever use of new oak lending body without compromising terroir expression. The finish feels focused and satisfying and the texture leaves you totally seduced. Class, class, class. Tasted September 2016.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPIt has been six years since I last tasted the 2013 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru, when I wrote "Class. Class. Class." I have no need to alter that assessment. With fragrant raspberry, wild strawberry, crushed limestone and flint on the nose, this has a transparency that is a wonder to behold. The palate is beautifully balanced, poised with a fine line of acidity, full of tension with vivid red fruit on the finish that belies the structure underneath. Magnificent. Tasted at a private dinner in Beaune.Vinous Media | 96 VMThe 2013 Ruchottes-Chambertin from Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg is another great example of the vintage. The bouquet delivers and outstanding aromatic constellation of sweet dark berries, cassis, grilled meats, complex soil tones, espresso, woodsmoke, mustard seed and nutty new wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very suave and refined on the palate, with a rock solid core, fine-grained tannins and superb backend energy on the very long and utterly classic finish. Great juice. (Drink between 2023 - 2075)John Gilman | 95+ JGA markedly ripe nose presents notes of cassis, plum liqueur, earth, spice and a hint of the sauvage. As it virtually always is this is notably bigger, richer and more powerful than the Feusselottes with its sleekly muscular and equally mineral-driven flavors that possess excellent mid-palate concentration along with impressive depth and length on the youthfully austere finale. This is really lovely juice but note that patience will definitely be required.Burghound | 93 BH

The 2014 Maison Drouhin Griotte-Chambertin had also been racked a week prior to my tasting it, but this too was showing very well indeed and did not seem overly upset about having been moved out of cask so recently. The wine includes fifteen percent whole clusters this year and offers up a gorgeous and very soil-driven bouquet of strawberries, cherries, grilled meat, coffee, a beautifully transparent base of soil, gentle spices and cedary wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and loaded with sappy red fruit at the core, with excellent transparency, fine-grained tannins and outstanding length and grip on the impeccably balanced finish. (Drink between 2025 - 2075)John Gilman | 95 JG

The 2014 Clos de Bèze had only been in bottle for three weeks when I had a chance to taste it at the end of my November trip, but this was probably close enough to the mise that the wine had not yet had a chance to really close down. The wine is clearly going to be brilliant, as it offers up a pure and very red fruity aromatic blend of red plums, cherries, grilled meat, dark soil tones, espresso, woodsmoke, a judicious framing of spicy wood and a classic topnote of mustard seed. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very pure on the attack, with a lovely core, stunning transparency, nascent complexity and a very long, beautifully balanced, fine-grained and tangy finish. This is a classic example in the making and one of the best wines in the Drouhins’ cellars in this vintage! (Drink between 2025 - 2075)John Gilman | 96+ JG(mostly from purchased grapes but also includes some estate fruit): Moderately saturated medium red Pungent aromas of minerals, flowers, spices and red licorice With its lively acidity, this wine conveys excellent precision and intensity to its wild plum and floral flavors On the light side for Clos de Bèze but the tannins are suave and fine-grained and the floral finish is refined, subtle and long Spreads out horizontally to saturate the palate and pique the taste budsVinous Media | 92 VM

So floral, like a bouquet of flowers. Fills the glass. Full-bodied, yet beautifully balanced and subtle. Such purity of fruit and polish. I can’t wait on this. Drink or hold. Will age beautifully.James Suckling | 95 JSThis vineyard is widely regarded for its quality worthy of grand cru status, and this wine, from vines owned by Louis Jadot, is a fine example. It is both structured and richly fruity—dense with ripe red fruit flavors cut with acidity. A dry core of tannins will allow this impressive wine to age. Drink from 2024.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEBright mid purple. Clear crisp mid purple with a very classy fruit. This has real density to it, dark red fruit, good freshness, much more backward than Les Baudes, but the class and persistence are there. Tasted Oct 2017.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPA ripe, round style, this red boasts floral, cherry and berry flavors allied to a silky texture. Firm and vibrant, with an underlying mineral element. Just a bit austere now on the finish. Best from 2020 through 2035. 500 cases made, 215 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSMedium deep red purple, oak and a touch of oxidation has slightly affected the nose, causing some stewed fruit. It also makes the wine a bit clumsy in the mouth, and there is a lot of oak, but there is also a sign of very high class fruit typical of the vineyard. So this sample is not working today but I suspect a really fine wine underneath Tasted Sep 2017.Jasper Morris | 93 JMThe 2014 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru is just a little rustic on the nose at the moment. Dark berry fruit mixes with iodine and seaweed scents. It is not powerful, though it is well-defined. The palate is medium-bodied with black fruit and slightly coarse tannins. The 2014 is quite tarry in texture with a dry finish. It’s not bad, but I feel that Jadot has made better CSJs since then.Vinous Media | 91 VMAn airy and markedly floral nose also reveals spicy notes of both red and dark currant, spice and plenty of earth character. There is good richness to the vibrant and overtly mineral-driven medium-bodied flavors that retain fine delineation on the elegant, dusty and well-balanced finish. At present this seems to lack the mid-palate stuffing I’m used to seeing from the best vintages though I suspect that this will very likely fill out with time in bottle. In sum, 2014 appears to be a very good but not genuinely great vintage for this consistently excellent wine. (Drink starting 2024)Burghound | 91 BH

This offers cherry and currant flavors, with hints of violet, black pepper and spice, underlined by a beam of tannins. Still austere and rigid on the finish, yet with excellent concentration and length. Best from 2022 through 2036. 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS(Still in barrel) The highly decadent, inviting bouquet is redolent of red fruit. Suavely textured on the palate, this wine is poised and elegant, with a gorgeous balance and purity.Decanter | 94 DECThe 2014 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs has a very complex and introverted, but captivating bouquet that draws you in, full of blackberry, briary, cold limestone and just a hint of baking powder in the background lending sweetness. The palate is sensual on the entry. There is roundness and depth here, coupled with very good substance, a hint of white pepper perhaps, and as always, with immense precision on the finish. There is nothing flamboyant here -- just a very aristocratic Volnay for long term aging.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPMedium red, the lightest of these 2014s Reticent but highly nuanced nose offers aromas of redcurrant, dark raspberry, milk chocolate, earth and animal fur, plus a riper suggestion of prune (this fruit was picked at 13% potential alcohol) Wonderfully silky and ripe; large-scaled and round for 2014 but not at all heavy Not as primary as the extraordinary 2015 but the wine’s wonderfully refined, thoroughly ripe, late-arriving tannins will require considerable patienceVinous Media | 93 VMClassic ruby color. The understated nose only grudgingly reveals cool and ultra-pure aromas of violet, herbal tea, spice and a broad mélange of wild red berries. There is a really lovely vibrancy to the superbly well-detailed medium weight flavors that are intensely stony with a sleek and polished palate feel that carries over to the impeccably well-balanced, hugely persistent and youthfully austere finale. This is sufficiently supple that it should drink well on the younger side but if you wish to experience it at its peak, it will be necessary to have at least some patience. (Drink starting 2026)Burghound | 93 BH

Here the kaleidoscopically spicy nose is slightly riper with its beautifully layered range of both red and blue pinot fruit, sandalwood, anise, hoisin and rose petal. The rich, classy and ultra-refined medium weight flavors possess a caressing mouthfeel before terminating in a marvelously complex, driving and explosively long finish. This almost thick effort is quite firm but not at all austere though I have a sneaking feeling that this is going to shut down significantly once it is in bottle and thereafter, plenty of patience will be requisite.Burghound | 96 BHThe 2015 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru is lovely, revealing a beautifully pure bouquet of cassis, plum, clove, violets, rose petal and spice. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and complete, with supple, fine-grained tannins and excellent depth and dimension, with the most flesh on its bones of all the domaine’s grands crus. The inherent elegance of Romanée-Saint-Vivant really plays into Charles Lachaux’s hands.Robert Parker wine Advocate | 95 RPFull dark red. Musky, wild scents of raspberry, espresso and mocha quickly shut down in the glass. Plump, sweet and quite powerful, with its very ripe, almost liqueur-like dark fruit flavors a bit blurred today by the wine’s significant baby fat. Finishes broad, dry and very long but downright inscrutable. Today I don’t find the sappy minerality or lift this wine displayed from barrel a year ago but it’s stubbornly backward today and will need at least six or seven more years of cellaring.Vinous Media | 93+ VM

The 2015 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots, matured in two-thirds new oak, has a bewitching bouquet that is very pure and intense, layers of dark cherry and wild strawberry fruit tinged with iodine that seems to blossom in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm tannin and structured, underneath those intense dark berry fruit, a touch of salinity towards the finish that keeps the senses searching and eager for the next sip. Typical of Cathiard’s style of winemaking, this is just a brilliant Les Suchots from one of its finest exponents.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95-97 RP(August malo): Full, bright red. Showy aromas of black raspberry, licorice and violet convey excellent cut and mineral lift. Savory, penetrating wine with strong early personality to its deep flavors of black fruits, salty minerality and spices. Has the old-vines density of texture to carry its ripe tannins effortlessly.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMJuicy raspberry nose packed with fruit. Good attack, with vibrant fruit and fine-grained tannins. Taut and concentrated with a piquant complexity and good depth of flavour.Decanter | 92 DECA brilliantly spicy nose is comprised by notes of violet, plum, lavender, soy, Asian-style tea and black cherry. There is more volume and richness if less precision and delineation to the velvety and seductive-textured medium weight plus flavors that coat the palate on the beautifully well-balanced, persistent and equally classy finish that is quite firmly structured. The sheer level of dry extract buffering the ripe and dense tannins is impressive and as such this terrific effort should age effortlessly.Burghound | 92-94 BH

Broader-shouldered and ampler than the Romanée-St-Vivant, the 2016 Richebourg Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with a lavish bouquet of cassis, dark plums, candied peel, potpourri, Asian spices, peonies and smoked duck. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, rich and expansive, with considerable depth and dimension at the core, and a gourmand, almost fleshy profile that marries beautifully with its cool, precise fruit tones and its velvety structuring tannins. This is a superb Richerbourg that to my palate surpasses the 2015 rendition.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RP(Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg Grand Cru Red) An exuberantly fresh if restrained nose offers up a panoply of spice elements that add breadth to the mostly dark berry fruit and plum aromas that are laced with smoky hints of violet, rose petal, lavender and a whisper of sandalwood. The tautly muscular broad-shouldered flavors possess outstanding mid-palate density as well as evident minerality on the focused, impeccably well-balanced and hugely persistent finale that just goes and goes. The '16 Riche is a bit more refined than usual thanks to the beautifully fine-grained tannins and a wine that could aptly be described as a lovely combination of power and refinement that should also successfully age for a very long time. (Drink starting 2038).Burghound | 96 BHThe Richebourg has discreet yet powerfully brooding aromatics, mingling a hint of whole-bunch fruit with a spicy undertone of oak. It has energetic drive from exotic mulberry fruit, with an immediate fleshy, sweet dark berry impact on the tongue. Super-juicy loganberry flavours come in on the mid-palate, with the tannins tucked behind the fruit for a while. The texture is voluptuous and the structure stealthily emerges as the supple tannins and fresh acidity combine together in a tapering, slow-burning finish. Drinking Window 2030 - 2040.Decanter | 95 DECThe 2016 Richebourg Grand Cru was picked on September 23–24 at 24hL/ha. It is much more intellectual and, you might argue, more challenging on the nose. Initially it feels a little green, not through underripeness but due to a stemmy element that is not quite as well enmeshed with the fruit. This seems to dissipate with time, and after two or three minutes it evolves an extraordinarily complex mélange of red and black fruit (more the latter), briar, rose petals, crushed stone and just a touch of seaweed. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm tannin, not as silky as the Romanée-Saint-Vivant, and a little more angular and masculine by comparison. This is one of the most saline Richebourgs that I have encountered from the domaine. Clearly a wine that is going to require a decade in bottle to really find its groove. Compelling, but not the most straightforward Richebourg in the pack. Then again, don’t we all like a puzzle? 868 cases produced. Tasted at Corney & Barrow’s annual in-bottle tasting in London.Vinous Media | 95 VM

The older vines in de Vogüé’s extensive 7.2ha in Musigny date back to 1953 and make a wine that’s considerably weightier than the young-vine cuvée. This is very deep and intense in colour, exhibiting layers of dark bramble and black cherry flavours and a backbone of precise, chalky, mouthwatering acidity. A wine that needs time to digest its 35% new wood. Drinking Window 2026 - 2037Decanter | 96 DECThe 2017 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is complex and well defined on the nose, where touches of iodine and wild heather infuse the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly grainy texture; notes of black truffle and fresh fig complement a fruit profile that welcomes more red fruit toward the finish. Hints of white pepper and sage linger on the aftertaste. This is certainly beginning to close up in bottle, so allow a decade if you can for this Musigny to show what it is capable of.Vinous Media | 95 VMAn openly exotic nose offers glimpses of black cherry liqueur, ginger, Asian-style tea, sandalwood and orange peel. The tighter and much more mineral-driven big-bodied flavors also possess evident muscle on the powerful and dense yet beautifully refined finish that goes on and on. This is also a bit less structured though with that said, this is going to need at least 15 years to reach its apogee. In a word, terrific.Burghound | 94 BHThe 2017 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is showing very well indeed, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cherries, rose petal, warm spices and orange rind, framed by creamy new wood. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and velvety, with the greatest depth and dimension of any wine in the cellar, displaying excellent energy and completeness, and distinguished above all by striking length on the finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RP(Musigny “Vieilles Vignes”- Domaine de Comte de Georges de Vogüé) The 2017 Musigny old vine bottling was quite hunkered down after its recent racking, but though it was not as expressive as the Bonnes-Mares on this particular day, it showed good underlying soil signature and seemed to only be in need of more time out from the racking for everything to snap back into proper place. The wine certainly has lovely fruit elements in its mix of sappy black cherries and plums, complex soil tones, woodsmoke, gamebird, violets and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and nascently complex, with a good sappy core of black fruit, fine-grained tannins and lovely length and grip on the refined and quite soil-driven finish. This wine is not as precise as is customary (and which has to be a reflection of the post-racking period in which I tasted it), but there are really good elements here and if they all fall back into place properly, it will be a lovely wine. (Drink between 2030-2080)John Gilman | 93-95 JG

For the third vintage in a row, this 0.32ha plot, ranging in age between 60 and 80 years, has produced the best wine at the domaine. It's a stunning grand cru that was deceptively easy to taste from barrel. Elegant, refined and sensuous, it's a soprano of a wine with beautifully pitched chalky precision, a hint of earth and subtle wild strawberry fruit. Drinking Window 2022 - 2032.Decanter | 97 DECThe 2017 Richebourg Grand Cru has a showstopping, persistent bouquet of intense blackberry, sous-bois and crushed stone. The supremely well-balanced palate offers filigreed tannin, wonderful mineralité and an otherworldly-long finish. One of the most elegant Richebourgs that I have tasted. Best Richebourg in show this year? Quite possibly. Six barrels produced.Vinous Media | 96-98 VM(Domaine Jean Grivot Richebourg Grand Cru Red) The elegant, airy and beautifully perfumed nose offers up notes of sandalwood, anise, clove, herbal tea and plenty of floral influences. There is excellent delineation and minerality to the solidly concentrated, indeed even muscular, large-scaled flavors that culminate in an incredibly long if very, very backward, austere and compact finale. This Zen-like effort is going to require an extended snooze in a cool cellar and as such, it's a wine to buy and forget that you own it for at least a decade. (Drink starting 2032).Burghound | 95 BHThe king of the cellar is the 2017 Richebourg Grand Cru, a decidedly promising wine that wafts from the glass with notes of rose petal, dark wild berries, smoke, Asian spices, espresso roast, licorice and rich soil tones. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, its satiny structuring tannins cloaked in succulent, fleshy fruit, its finish long and vibrant. The Richebourg stands apart for its amplitude and completeness this year.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-96 RP