95-97 Point Wines

wines

Perfumed nose expressing notes of baked pears, almond powder, cream, baked lemons, chamomile and some white flowers. Medium-bodied with bright acidity and character. Vertical with so much tension. Vibrant and intense but remains in control. Plenty of verve and brightness. There is a purity to it. Textural and well-composed. A brilliant white with a long, mineral finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSLast year’s debut of Tan Fruit’s 2021 White Walnut Chardonnay was extraordinarily singular and expressive, and this 2022 Chardonnay White Walnut Vineyard is just as arresting. Matured for 12 months in barrel, plus six months in stainless steel, it explodes from the glass with a kaleidoscopic perfume of lychee and peach preserves streaked with accents of honey, hazelnut and green herbs. The medium-bodied palate is satiny and mouth coating and echoes the exoticism of the nose as it unfolds layer after layer of honeyed, spicy, floral fruit. Its focused spine of acidity expertly balances its natural opulence, and it has a hauntingly long finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPFrom what Maresh calls an incredible vineyard in the Dundee Hills, he believes that no other Oregon site has more unique clonal diversity. It’s a melange of suitcase selections and far-flung clones planted in 2012. This is a wine of complexity with perfumed aromatics, Maresh believes there is a Musque clone somewhere in the mystery field blend. The aromatics are a bit of a mystery, juicy citrus melds with herbaceous character and a throughline of savoury saline minerality. The palate is spicy and alive. White pepper and chamomile, with a smoky grilled lemon finish, leans into savouriness and lasts seemingly for five minutes. The complexity of the finish is hard to pin down, but the impression it leaves is one of unique Chardonnay from the Willamette Valley.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2022 Chardonnay White Walnut Vineyard is tremendously lifted and refined, opening with a complex bouquet that makes the taster work a bit It slowly evolves with a perfumed blend of young peach, green melon, spring flowers, hints of ground ginger and mint. It flows across the palate with textures of pure silk, taking on an early saline tinge as nectarine mixes with flint stone atop a core of brisk acidity. The 2022 cuts like a knife, wickedly fresh and cleansing, tapering off with medium length yet leaving a lasting impression. The White Walnut hails from volcanic soils, which impart amazing tension.Vinous Media | 94 VMFragrant and expressive, with multilayered tropical fruit and dried apricot flavors that take on accents of cinnamon and orange blossoms. Drink now. 200 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The 2022 Chardonnay Westside Farms is a bright yellow/straw color, while the nose takes on more depth and a layered feel in its notes of beeswax, poached apples, elegant baking spice, wet river rock, and fresh flowers. The palate is packed with energy, and while it’s full-bodied, it has fantastic drive and a core of bright, tightly wound, laser-focused acidity driving the long, balanced finish. It will take another year or more to unwind and will improve over the coming decade. Drink 2026-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDSo elegant, layered and rich in flavor yet brilliantly balanced in acidity, so it’s tempting to drink now but will also age well for many years. Such finesse, with intricate layers of citrus, white peaches, crisp apples and hints of cream, nutmeg and vanilla bean. Very flavorful yet slightly restrained in texture, which makes it even more appetizing. Aged in 20% new French barrels. From the Ramey family property. Drinkable now, but best from 2029.James Suckling | 96 JSSourced from Ramey’s 30-hectare ranch, which has been farmland since the mid-1800s and borders a mile and a half of the Russian River. The vineyard shares the same silty Yolo loam soils as Rochioli Vineyard, located just a mile north. This wine brims with fruit intensity and deep, layered flavours—citrus peel richness, toasted almonds, and a remarkable salty depth. Candied ginger and cedarwood spices weave through brown spice accents, but what stands out most is the noteworthy tension that gives this wine its drive. Sourced from Block 1 of the property, the last of the 1989 plantings, this Chardonnay is rooted in AXR rootstock, dry-farmed, and known to struggle in drought years. These vines won’t be around forever, making this a rare opportunity—if you can find it, this long-lived Chardonnay will reward patience in the cellar for years to come.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2022 Chardonnay Westside Farms Vineyard comes from grapes planted in 1989 on silty loam soils on Westside Road. The grapes were harvested on August 19, before the Labor Day heat wave, and the wine was barrel-fermented. Matured for 20 months in 20% new French oak barrels, it has slowly unfurling aromas of peach, ginger, cashew, honey and matchstick. The palate balances lush, honeyed flavors with fresh acidity, and it has a long, spicy finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPImpressive for its clarity and focus as well as the power from its concentration, with a core of candied lemon peel, Meyer lemon, lemon verbena and pear. Fragrant orange blossom, fresh-cut Honeycrisp apple and kumquat notes are matched by the vibrant acidity and smooth, supple texture. Expands further on the long, expressive finish. Drink now through 2039. 422 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

In 2022, the estate will only be producing a small quantity of the single-vineyard Riservas, with the majority of fruit going into the 2022 Barbaresco. It pours a jeweled ruby red color and reveals a seductive yet very pure nose of cherry cordial, crushed roses, sweet herbs, and peppery spice. Medium-bodied, it has supple ripeness in the fruit yet wonderful clarity in its tannins and acidity, giving the wine excellent definition and balance. Roughly 133,333 bottles were produced. Drink 2026-2050.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDViolet, rose and dried herb scents over black cherry, raspberry and a touch of tar. Medium-bodied yet firm on the palate, its succulent red fruits are framed by fine tannins and fresh acidity. The clean and persistent finish shows floral, red-fruit and mineral nuances.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECBright and overtly fruity, this is full of intoxicating violets, cinnamon, blood oranges and black cherries, expressing mint and balsamic depth. Full-bodied with a soft, smooth attack, dusty yet velvety tannins and brilliant acidity. The chocolaty finish shows licorice and a mouth-coating texture. Delicious and balanced. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSThe straight 2022 Barbaresco from Produttori del Barbaresco is fragrant and refined, with aromas of blue flower, red berry, citrus and a balsamic whiff of eucalyptus. Surprisingly fresh and juicy for the hot, extremely dry vintage, it boasts flavors of tart red cherry, orange zest and star anise alongside taut, refined tannins that leave some grip on the finish. Drink through 2030. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KOThe 2022 Barbaresco is a pretty rich, heady wine. Dark cherry/plum fruit, cloves, licorice and mocha build as the 2022 shows off its considerable depth. This is one of the few 2022s that is quite resonant texturally. The aromatics could be more lifted and the tannins could use a bit more polish, but those qualities were next to impossible to come by in 2022. The inclusion of some juice from Riserva lots is a great help. All things considered, this is a stellar showing.Vinous Media | 93 VMPacked with cherry and raspberry flavors, this red is round and succulent, with a fleshy profile and a solid base of tannins. Mineral and menthol accents add depth, and the finish is fresh and long. Best from 2028 through 2042. 25,000 cases made, 600 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

Bize owns 2.1 hectares here, including a half-hectare of Chardonnay. The red has an explosive blackberry and wild strawberry fruit aroma with hints of fresh and dried flowers, earth, and cigar leaf. The texture is tannic and firm but less tightly-wound than the 2020s. Fermentation is done as whole clusters; the wine is aged in cask, with just 5 – 10% new. When finished, this delicious wine should be approachable earlier than some vintages have been.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2022 Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Vergelesses 1er Cru has a complex and perhaps cerebral nose: dark berry fruit, black pepper, green tea and light scents of damp moss/forest floor. This unfurls beautifully in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins framing gorgeous dark berry fruit, a little peppery in style, quintessentially Savigny with a very persistent finish. Everything you want from a Savigny Premier Cru (and more).Vinous Media | 93-95 VMHalf in a foudre, half in a barrel. Pale colour with a faint green streak. The reduction is keeping the wine tense, while the fruit on the palate is immediately engaging. Ripe limes, fresh apple, a certain sensuality behind, and an excellent long finish. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JMCool, fresh and bright aromas of red currant, cherry, warm earth and a hint of spice are trimmed in a plethora of floral elements. The rich, velvety and solidly voluminous flavors possess the best concentration in the range while displaying focused power on the firm, serious, moderately austere and very much built to age finale. This is a buy and forget it wine for at least 7 to 8 years.Burghound | 90-93 BH

The magnificent, carousel-like sweep of the hill of Corton – almost 100 m top to bottom, and revelling in every exposition save north – means that exact location on the hill is critical for quality. The white wines of Corton-Charlemagne come overwhelmingly from south-west- and west-facing vineyards, coolly exposed, so often these are among the least articulate of all Burgundy’s great white Grands Crus in their youth. Not, though, in the case of this wine from the generous 2022 vintage. It’s promisingly pale, but already compelling on the nose, with subtle oak, wild hawthorne blossom and refined grape and cool citrus. It has all the controlled breadth you’d expect on the palate with more white blossom and subtle, vinous, breath-freshening fruits. The finish is long and lingering, mingling ripe, fruit-bonded acidity with a quiet pulse of ripeness. It will, of course, be better after a decade in a cool cellar, but there’s nothing to stop you enjoying the wine soon, either. Alcohol 13.0%. (DWWA 2024). - Decanter | 97 DECFour plots all in Pernand. Pale in colour with ripe apple notes. The bouquet suggests a leaner style of wine than the palate delivers, which may be a question of being just after bottling. There is some complexity on the palate, a little lime, a phenolic touch. I don’t notice the 40% new wood, so there is clearly good fruit concentration.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JM

The 2022 Muscadet “Clisson” from Domaine de la Pépière is another absolutely great,wine in the making. These very old vines are now more than ninety-five years of age. The wineshows remarkable depth on the nose, wafting from the glass in a mix of breadfruit, green pear,ocean breeze, a beautiful base of granite minerality, white flowers, a touch of iodine and a lovelynote of leesiness from the wine’s extended aging prior to bottling. On the palate the wine is pure,full-bodied, precise and youthful in personality, with a great core of fruit, superb mineral undertow,zesty acids and impeccable balance on the long, complex and very, very classy finish. This superbMuscadet deserves at least five years in the cellar before broaching, as there are many more layersto reveal here with the passing of time! 2025-2065+.John Gilman | 95 JG

Lots of tangy fruit with spicy lemon, lime, lemongrass and raw ginger character and just a hint of waxy undertones. Medium-bodied, tight and focused, with a frame of fruit and a solid finish. Lots of spices and green fruit as well as fresh herbs like basil and sage. A blend of sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, ribolla gialla and malvasia. Drink or hold. Screw cap.James Suckling | 96 JSThis elegant white is vibrant and inviting, with a sense of finesse as a racy spine of acidity is enmeshed with fruit flavors of melon, kiwi fruit and pink grapefruit glâcée, plus accents of green almond and white blossoms. Spice and mineral notes play on the mouthwatering finish. Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Ribolla Gialla and Malvasia Istriana. Drink now through 2034. 5,833 cases made, 840 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSSeashells and crushed stone mingle with tart orchard fruits, creating a vivid aromatic profile in this blend of Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Ribolla Gialla, and Malvasia. Bright and refreshing, the wine’s mouthwatering acidity is like a cool ocean breeze with ocean spray spritz freshly cut apples. It’s zippy on the finish, with a salty minerality that’s reminiscent of an early morning walk along the beach.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

Rich, powerful and gorgeous, drenched in fruity, savory, mushroomy flavors on a full body and super-smooth tannins. It is deep in black cherry, blackcurrant, cedar and pine character that expands on the palate and lingers in the finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSA touch more saturated red in color, the 2023 Pinot Noir Laurène is deeper and more layered in the glass, with notes of pine, sage, ripe cherries, fresh leather, and pressed floral perfume. It has a refined and plush texture, with ripe tannins and elegant notes of dark earth. Drink 2025-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDThe 2023 Pinot Noir Laurène is darkly floral, with a coy mix of dusty lavender and violets complementing dried black cherries. A round and supple persona soothes as ripe wild berry fruits wash across a stream of cool-toned acidity. Stainingly long, the finish boasts a pleasant black-tea-like bitterness that tugs at the cheeks. Classic to the core.Vinous Media | 94 VMPrecise and vibrant, with sleek flavors of cherry and raspberry highlighted by stony mineral and black tea accents as this gathers richness toward refined tannins Drink now through 2034. 3,725 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The density and balance are so attractive here, with sliced apples, white pineapple and crushed stones. Hints of dried flowers, too, such as white roses and lilacs, as well as almonds. Medium-bodied with focus and subtle strength. Seemingly endless, with a bitter-lemon edge and nice reduction in the aftertaste of gun metal. Drink and enjoy.James Suckling | 96 JSDrouhin’s Clos des Mouches 2023 exemplifies the vintage’s potential for delicious whites. The wine has lush, forward aromas of Mirabelle plums and quince with hints of marzipan, butter and a suggestion of stylishly smoky reduction. The texture is supple and dense, but the richness is kept in balance and the extract carries the wine to a lingering finish. Parts of the 7ha vineyard have been replanted; the old vines that produce this bottling have delivered a wine of great character.Decanter Magazine | 94 DEC The 2023 vintage of Clos des Mouches Blanc is an absolute classic in the making, but it will demand a few years in the cellar to properly blossom before it will start hitting on all cylinders. The bouquet is deep, nascently complex and beautifully detailed, delivering scents of apple, lemon, beeswax, chalky soil tones, a nice touch of sweet butter, dried flowers and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied and a bit reserved in profile at the present time, with a superb core of fruit, fine soil signature and grip, very good acidity and a long, poised and impeccably balanced finish. This really has grand cru weight and authority on the palate, but also a bit of a structural chassis that will want to be waited out before starting to drink the wine with abandon. (Drink between 2029 - 2060)John Gilman | 94+ JGThe 2023 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Blanc (Domaine) is another strong performance, delivering aromas of sweet pear, peach and mandarin mingled with buttered toast and mint. Full-bodied, rich and ample, it’s layered and unctuous, with a seamless, satiny, textural profile and a long, lusty finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-94 RPThe 2023 Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc 1er Cru has more intensity on the nose than expected, with lovely lilting yellow fruit, quince and crushed stone scents. The palate is very well balanced and generous, with a slightly oily texture, great depth, fine acidity and a judicious touch of lemongrass toward the finish that feels long and intense. This may well surpass the 2022.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMMid lemon, with the somewhat more sumptuous bouquet of Clos des Mouches, always more flesh right from the outset. This is a powerful fleshy wine, with a good oak support, probably higher in alcohol. Lower than expected yield here in white. May well be around 14% I suspect but that goes with this territory. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Nov 2024.Jasper Morris | 92-95A vague suggestion of the exotic is present in the form of jasmine tea, orange peel, white peach and a background hint of passion fruit. The medium-bodied flavors are rich to the point of opulence yet retain a relatively sleek mouthfeel that carries over to the balanced and nicely dry finale. This attractively persistent effort could use better depth so at least a few years of cellaring should prove to be beneficial.Burghound | 90-92 BH

So pretty, charming and elegant, with floral aromas, light tannins and quiet vibrancy. Fresh raspberries, sour cherries, red cherries, rose petals and minerals give it complexity and appeal. Finesse, nerve and great balance. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSA bright red color, the 2023 Pinot Noir Roserock Zephirine offers focused and expressive notes of wild raspberries, framboise, rosy perfume, and sweet herbs. Medium-bodied, it has ripe tannins and an approachable feel, with its underlying mineral focus shining through the midpalate and finish. It’s delicious now but will only improve over the next 6-7 years and drink well over the coming 15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDThe 2023 Pinot Noir Zéphirine wafts up with an understated blend of dried flowers, spiced citrus and wild strawberries. A stern mineral core and brisk acidity enliven the tart wild berry fruits. Youthful tension pinches at the cheeks, leaving angular tannins and admirable freshness.Vinous Media | 93 VM

Always a centerpiece of the Tyler range, the 2023 Chardonnay La Rinconada Vineyard is distinguished by an additional layer of high-resolution clarity in this vintage, elevating what is routinely one of the region’s finest Chardonnay expressions. It combines a sumptuous, textural power with an equal measure of incredibly focused, mineral-driven energy throughout. Radiant, pure, herbal and honeyed on the nose, the palate exudes a broad, powerful muscularity that glides smoothly into a seamless, measured and mouthwatering finish that lingers with chalky grip.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe 2023 Chardonnay La Rinconada Vineyard is an alluring, incredibly textural wine, with a generous, ample personality and impressive delineation of flavors. Mint, toasted spices, yellow apple, chamomile and chalk embrace a sumptuous, creamy mid-palate, leading to a finish of great precision. This is a beautifully balanced white with tons of suaveness and a clear mineral accent.Vinous Media | 96 VM

Once again, I found the 2023 Pinot Noir Fiddlestix Vineyard to be a centerpiece of the Tyler portfolio, offering up a dramatically richer and more saturated frame than its counterparts in the lineup, while sacrificing no clarity or complexity. The nose is strikingly dark, floral and pure, with clear-cut graphite and cola notes that are often common to larger-scale Pinot Noirs yet rendered here with poise and precision. On the palate, it packs the most substantial punch of the roster, oozing with a rich, cake-like texture while refraining from overt decadence. The finish is deep, long and layered, with a lumbering richness that sets it apart from the more high-toned and soaring counterparts in the lineup.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPPlush and juicy, the 2023 Pinot Noir Fiddlestix Vineyard is a flashier, more forward wine with great suppleness and a core of intensely ripe blueberry fruit. A bold, confident wine, the Fiddlestix saturates the palate with inky mineral tones and gentle acids. Nicely done.Vinous Media | 93 VM

Reminding me of a great Meursault with its richer nose of honeyed stone fruits, toasted bread, blanched almond, and hints of crushed stone, the 2023 Chardonnay offers a pure, layered, ripe, yet vibrant style. Based on 100% Chardonnay from the Ladybug, Little Bit, and Seashell vineyards and aged on lees for 22 months in 70% new French oak, it’s rich and medium to full-bodied with terrific depth and complexity. There are roughly 1,511 cases produced, and it should age gracefully for a decade. Drink 2025-2035.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDSleek and juicy, a generous expression of candied lemon peel, pear drop and mango puree, with details of salted caramel, dried ginger and plump melon, plus lingering accents of nutmeg, gingerbread and jasmine. Drink now through 2033. 1,511 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe 2023 Chardonnay Estate is creamy, open-knit and polished. Lemon confit, tangerine oil, marzipan, white flowers and a kiss of French oak all grace this super-expressive, vibrant Chardonnay. It’s a terrific introduction to the range.Vinous Media | 93 VMGenerous ripe fruit like pears and golden apples resting on a relaxed, rich texture. This wine is gentle, almost sweet tasting, with Bartlett pears, vanilla bean, creme brulee and white chocolate on the palate. Drink now.James Suckling | 93 JS

The 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon Vidovich Lane hits the palate with dark-toned fruit, leather, incense, chocolate, gravel and dried herbs. This is an especially virile, potent Cabernet Sauvignon, a wine that paints a starkly different side of St. Helena vis-à-vis the Panek. Give this a few years to soften. Memorable.Vinous Media | 97 VMComing from a site just beside Dr. Crane in St. Helena and all See clone, the 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon Vidovich Lane is a beautifully pure, elegant, finesse-driven wine in the vintage. Red, blue, and black fruits intermixed with spicy, floral, and candied violet nuances define the aromatics. It’s medium to full-bodied on the palate, with remarkably pure, polished tannins and outstanding overall balance. This charming Cabernet Sauvignon can be drunk today or cellared for 15+ years. There are 395 cases produced. Drink 2025-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDFrom a two-acre site located south of the city of Saint Helena, near Dr. Crane, the 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon Vidovich Lane Vineyard has layers of ripe cherries tinged with dark chocolate. It’s full-bodied and really supple but still shows ample structure and length.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94-96 RP

The 2023 Pinot Noir Koosah Vineyard is ruby red in color and is charming upfront, offering notes of grenadine, purple flowers, sweet herbs, and dusty earth. Focused on the palate, with angular tannins and lively acidity, it has a floating texture and perfumed notes of peach that last on the finish. There’s a refined tension and Nebbiolo-like structure, with a linear drive here that I absolutely love. Drink through 2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDEola-Amity Hills evangelist Ken Pahlow does his most recognised work with Chardonnay, but his Pinot Noirs from his own high-profile site for the Valley’s next generation of winemakers are also remarkable. Leaning into minerality and white pepper, the aromatics pop with taut red berries and sea salt. Briny on the front palate, the mineral zip leads to fresh strawberries and mint leaves. There’s a streak of graphite that centres minerality directly into the finish.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2023 Pinot Noir Koosah Vineyard comes from mixed clone vines planted in 2016 in volcanic soils at 720 to 1,080 feet in elevation. Fermented with 25% whole clusters and matured for 15 months in 45% new French oak, it has slowly unfurling scents of blackberry, rhubarb, blood orange, forest floor, violet and tobacco. The medium-bodied palate is powerfully styled with concentrated yet detailed flavors. It’s framed by chalky tannins and vibrant acidity and has a long, spicy finish. 175 cases were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2022 Pinot Noir Koosah Vineyard opens with a savory herbal flourish complicated by hints of chalk dust and wild blueberries. This displays textures of pure silk, pliant and supple, with depths of red and blue fruits that slowly saturate toward the close. It leaves a tart cherry saturation with nuances of licorice and spice over a bed of gently grippy tannins. Koosah is shaping up to be one of the most exciting locations Walter Scott works with.Vinous Media | 94+ VMThe 2023 Koosah Vineyard pinot noir from Walter Scott saw forty-five percent new oak in this vintage, with no whole clusters used. The wine’s élevage was done entirely in two hundred and twenty-eight liter casks. It comes in at 13.5 percent octane this year and also gets my vote as the most beautiful wine label to be found anywhere! The wine’s gorgeous bouquet wafts from the glass in a mix of sweet dark berries, black cherries, coffee bean, a complex base of volcanic soil, hints of the cola to come, cedary oak, violets and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, pure and full-bodied, with a beautiful core of fruit, fine soil signature and grip, ripe, well-integrated tannins, tangy acids and impeccable balance on the long, nascently complex and precise finish. This is going to be a superb bottle of pinot noir in due course, but it is classically structured and will demand some extended cellaring before it starts to drink with generosity. (Drink between 2040 - 2085)John Gilman | 94+ JGA dark raspberry dipped in dark chocolate aroma is a heck of a way to make an introduction. Beyond the fruit and chocolate are traces of loamy soil and coriander. The Koosah feels fresh and energetic on the palate, as snappy acidity energizes flavors like boysenberries, lemon zest and a hint of black pepper.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

The 2023 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru has a backward nose despite aeration, but it’s still nicely defined. Dark berry fruit and a touch of white pepper dominate, with hints of blue fruit emerging later. The medium-bodied palate features slightly chalky tannins and is more saline than the Chapelle-Chambertin. There is impressive precision and tension here, plus plenty of backbone on the finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 95-97 VMThe 2023 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru is a beauty, bursting with notes of plums, red berries, orange zest and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered, it’s suave and sensual, with polished tannins and a vibrant core of fruit, concluding with a perfumed finish. As usual, it’s the most ethereal, elegant wine in the Dugat cellar.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPFirm reduction overshadows the underlying fruit today. More interesting are the elegant and beautifully refined, if decidedly punchy, flavors that exude evident minerality on the sleek, precise, moderately austere and impressively long and powerful finish. This is gorgeous and quite classy. If you can find it, buy it.Burghound | 93-96 BH

Aromas of blueberries, ash and stones with hints of blackberries, orange peel and chocolate. It’s medium-bodied with medium-round tannins that are polished and velvety but always in check. Cedar and baking spices like nutmeg on the palate. Lovely soft and silky texture with a long finish. Enchanting and delicious. 92% cabernet sauvginon, 4% cabernet franc and 4% petit verdot. From organically grown grapes. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2023 Napanook is deep, bold and luscious right out of the gate. Black cherry, lavender, dried herbs and graphite fill out its mid-weight frame quite nicely. I expect the 2023 will drink well with minimal cellaring, as it is already quite open and doesn’t quite have the tannic palate presence of more important years.Vinous Media | 93 VMDeep purple-hued and the second wine of this reference point domaine, the 2023 Napanook offers classic currants, leafy tobacco, graphite, and underbrush notes in a medium-bodied, very pretty, pure, elegant, and graceful style. Based on 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot and aged 20 months in 20% new French oak, it has ripe and polished tannins, perfectly integrated acidity, and a great finish. This classic, classy Cabernet will keep for 10-15 years. Drink 2025-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 92 JD

The most elegant of the reds is the 2023 Garnacha de Viña Bonita, from a plot planted in 1925, 2.5 hectares of old north-facing vines on sandy white granite soils surrounded by Mediterranean forest and centenary olive trees. It fermented with around 80% full clusters and indigenous yeasts and matured in three used 600-liter barrels. This is always the more complete wine, with nuance, complexity and depth, with energy and subtleness, in a kind of Chambollic way. It’s perfumed and elegant, with a very balanced palate and refined tannins, with penetrating flavors and great length. It comes in at 14.5% alcohol, with a pH of 3.44 and 5.59 grams of acidity. 1,500 bottles produced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RP

The 2023 Montrachet Grand Cru showed a little more cloudiness in the glass due to the lees (of course, they will disappear once racked). Perhaps the nose is a little primal as a result—it’s not as complete as the Bâtard or the Bienvenues. The palate is more indicative of where this Monty will be heading. It has intense, immense weight with an almost pixelated mineral-driven finish. This is going to be a great Montrachet, but it might take longer to reveal its true identity. Only six barrels were produced this year.Vinous Media | 96-98 VMSix barrels. This was slow to ferment and is still not clear after racking. A huge volume of pure white fruit with a slightly honeyed not as well, and a limestone backbone that drives the second half of the wine. Opulent in one sense yet managed, while the length and concentration of the finish is fully Montrachet worthy. Come back in many years. Lime as well as limestone, lingering in the mouth. Drink from 2032-2040. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 95-97 JMEnough wood to remark upon surrounds the cool and airy white orchard fruit aromas that are liberally laced with spice, zest and floral nuances. The sleek, intense and impressively scaled flavors brim with sappy dry extract that seems to have no effect on the precision of the wonderfully long, bone-dry, superbly long and well-balanced finale that is also supported by citrus-tinged acidity. This is not a massive Montrachet but it’s beautifully proportioned and a wine that should more than repay extended keeping. Moreover, it’s the class of the cellar in 2023.Burghound | 93-96 BH

The 2023 Pinot Noir Holstein Estate was fermented with 20% whole clusters and matured for 11 months in 20% new French oak. The nose is bursting with strawberry, pomegranate, blood orange, damp earth and tea leaves. Medium-bodied, it floods the mouth with layer after layer of perfumed, crunchy fruit. It’s framed by fine, chalky tannins and fireworks of fresh acidity and has a very long, layered finish. 350 cases were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

The 2023 Pinot Noir Koosah Vineyard was fermented with 45% whole clusters and matured for 11 months in 35% new French oak. It has nuanced aromas of blueberry, pomegranate, lavender, charcuterie and tea leaves. The medium-bodied palate is brimming with crunchy, perfumed fruit. It has a silky texture, refreshing acidity and a long, elegant finish. 400 cases were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

The 2023 Clos-de-la-Roche Grand Cru has a perfumed bouquet that’s quite floral with incense and bergamot tea scents and fruit that blossoms, but only after five minutes in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, tea leaf and bay leaf with a gradual crescendo toward its intense, mineral-driven finish. This is superb.Vinous Media | 95-97 VMDelicious. The classic Clos de la Roche from Domaine Hubert Lignier is impressive, deeply-coloured wine, with a pronounced aroma of black cherries, peony, and spice. The old vines provide small bunches even in 2023, giving a concentration on the palate that impresses in this sunny year. Two-thirds of the grapes were planted by Laurent’s father in 1964-1965; the balance (in Fremières) by his grandfather in 1955. One-third of the harvest was fermented as whole clusters, and the wine is ageing now in cask (one-third new).Decanter Magazine | 95 DECTwo thirds comes from Les Monts Luisants, and one third from Les Fremières. A deep crimson/purple. The wonderful bouquet has all the charm in the world plus complexity. Here the richness of the fruit suits the grand cru structure of this wine. Dark berry fruit that flows cross the palate and covers the well-balanced tannins. The 2023 Clos de la Roche has plenty of energy as well as fluidity. Drink from 2033-2042. Tasted Dec 2024.Jasper Morris | 95-97 JMSubtle though still easily perceptible wood influence can be found on the spicy black currant, violet and softly gamy nose. The seductive and caressing but punchy and powerful larger-bodied flavors also conclude in a youthfully austere, serious and compact finale that displays first-rate persistence. The Lignier Clos de la Roche is almost always excellent if given sufficient time in bottle and the 2023 version should honor that tradition as well.Burghound | 92-95 BH

The sumptuous old-vine Hommage MCMLV Clos de la Roche from Domaine Hubert Lignier offers profuse aromas of ripe mulberry and redcurrants accented with a floral note, oak spice and a bright mineral element. The texture is firm and very tannic, but the extract, acidity and fruit are all balanced; this wine seems set to age for decades. The grapes are from 0.27ha planted in the lieu-dit Monts Luisants by Laurent Lignier’s grandparents in 1955, hence the label MCMLV. There are only two barrels from this plot, but it is well worth seeking out.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECThe 2023 Clos-de-la-Roche Cuvée MCMLV Grand Cru has more mineral drive on the nose. It has ethereal transparency, intensity and hints of wilted rose petals emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, satin-like texture and gentle but insistent grip. Very long yet tender, this is a magnificent wine in the making.Vinous Media | 96-98 VMThis cuvée is taken from a few rows in Les Monts Luisants, a 1955 plantation made by Laurent’s grandfather with massal selection, delivering lots of millerand grapes. More purple than crimson, rather headier, yet all in reds fruit without the darker notes. A youthful energy, with a little more structure as well. The two wines are clearly very different. A lightly menthol touch to finish. Drink from 2033-2045. Tasted Dec 2024.Jasper Morris | 95-98 JMIn contrast to the nose of the regular cuvée, here it’s firmly reduced. On the palate though, there is plenty of underlying tension and freshness on the equally scaled flavors that are exceptionally rich, even plush and velvety, while delivering even better depth and persistence on the noticeably firmer finale. This should also age out successfully and is a wine that’s going to need a minimum of at least a decade of patience.Burghound | 93-95 BH

This delicious wine is perennially among the most concentrated and nuanced in Lignier’s cellar—just don’t refer to it as ‘the blended premier cru’. He is at pains to point out that the rows start out in Faconnières and end up in Cheneverey, but that it is one single parcel. The wine boasts aromas of ripe plums with notes of violets, pepper, and a hint of dark chocolate. The texture is dense and rich but without any heaviness. The grapes are from 0.66 hectares of vines. The oldest were planted in 1936, and the youngest in 1962.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2023 Morey-Saint-Denis Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru comes from the usual three lieux-dits. It has an intense bouquet with cool but focused blackberry, briar and light flinty scents. The palate is medium-bodied and very well balanced, with finely sculpted tannins and seductive creaminess to the texture in the finish. Frequently one of Laurent Lignier’s finest cuvées, this is just wonderful.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMMostly Faconnières. Rich dark crimson with the most fruit to date, fully ripe. The palate offers a balanced headiness, with a fruit dark enough to include some plums. This is the more hedonistic of the two but I think my preference comes down narrowly on the more cerebral Chaffots. Drink from 2032-2038. Tasted Dec 2024.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JMA restrained but beautifully layered nose grudgingly offers up its aromas of black cherry, crushed anise and newly turned earth. There is slightly better density to the overtly powerful and more obviously mineral-driven medium-bodied flavors that culminate in a firm, serious and compact finale. This too virtually always ages well and the 2023 version should be no exception.Burghound | 91-94 BH

A laser-focused, nicely lean and precise wine from a great vineyard that was one of Russian River Valley’s early chardonnay sites. It holds its crisp green apple and mineral flavors rather tightly now, suggesting a good potential for further aging. Full-bodied. Drinkable now and best from 2030.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2023 Chardonnay Rochioli Vineyard is a potent, intensely mineral wine, a Chardonnay that captures the personality of this site. Broad and ample on the palate, the 2023 possesses superb textural intensity and the drive to match. Slate, mint, white flowers, chalk and dried herbs linger on the polished, salivating close.Vinous Media | 95 VMThe 2023 Chardonnay Rochioli Vineyard has pure, expressive aromas of poached pears, quince, vanilla custard, matchstick and floral perfume. The medium-bodied palate is taut and energetic with mineral-laced flavors, fireworks of fresh acidity and a long, bright finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP