95-97 Point Wines

wines

The 2020 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia shows beautiful minerality with dusty notes of crushed limestone or flint. This is the wine’s special signature, and it shines through in a warm vintage such as this. Rancia also offers an upfront quality of red and purple fruit tones. The 2020 vintage displays pretty concentration and richness with wild cherry and plum, but ultimately the wine leaves you with that elegant mineral sendoff. Rancia will require extra bottle age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPIntense, with complex flavors of cherry, blackberry, violet, mineral and leafy underbrush, this red is silky and verges on racy. Harmonious and persistent, with a long, resonant aftertaste that echoes red fruit, mineral and savory elements. Best from 2025 through 2045. 4,100 cases made, 1,800 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSA polished and very refined Rancia with sweet berries, cedar and hints of chocolate. Medium body. Fresh and focused. A little reserved at the end. It needs two or three years to come around. Best in 2025.James Suckling | 95 JSThe nose is a garden, with aromas of potting soil, herbs, roses and violet, but also has undertones of flint and pepper that provide an edge. Cherries and tart blackberries headline the palate, but a chalky, iron-rich earthiness carries over from the nose and dominates the finish.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEMade since 1983, Fèlsina’s historic Riserva is a selection from the estate’s sunbathed six-hectare Rancia site. As always, it matures in barriques, 50% of which are new. The just released 2020 is particularly oak-driven: cedar and vanilla mingle with sage and grilled thyme. There’s ample fruit depth and concentration to flesh out the wood frame; tangy cherries are accented with baked earth and smoke. Grainy tannins start firm yet smooth, though they dry out on the finish.Decanter | 90 DEC

Aromas of menthol, black spice, leather, rose hip and citrus lead the nose on the stunning 2020 Baudana from Luigi Baudana. It’s smooth and delicious, delivering wild raspberry, strawberry compote, blood orange, tobacco and star anise alongside a backbone of polished tannins. Crushed mint lingers on the close while fresh acidity keeps it beautifully balanced. Drink 2027–2035. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOThe deep ruby-hued 2020 Barolo Baudana offers a sweet perfume of candied raspberries, cherry lozenge, crushed flowers, and sweet sage. Medium to full-bodied, it’s ripe and expansive with sweet tannins, it has a fantastic and weightless feel with a buoyant nature, and it’s floral and long on the palate, with a great apricot-noted finish. While it has a wide drinking window, it’s deserving of cellaring. Drink 2026-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDSubtle notes of cherries in their prime, thyme, star anise, incense, and warmed earth gradually emerge, over time, yielding a wine work the wait. On the palate, it is plush at first, but the tannins soon make their presence known, shaping the wine into a honed and chiseled example of classic Nebbiolo. The savory elements work in perfect harmony with the deep core of fruit and mouthwatering acidity, creating a Barolo that can be enjoyed now or cellared for decades. Drink Now - 2045Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEWith fruit from Serralunga d’Alba, the Luigi Baudana 2020 Barolo Baudana is a bold and ripe expression with dark currant, black cherry, sweet orange peel and crushed red rose. Soft, earthy layers appear on the mid-palate with hints of spicy licorice. All of that intensity, with soil, fruit and spice, swells over the palate, giving this wine an impactful character. It is almost ready to drink straight out of the gate.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPPacked with fruit, this red exudes cherry, strawberry, rose and iron notes, with a hint of wild herbs. Vibrant acidity and fine-grained tannins lend well-meshed support. Harmonious and surprisingly approachable already, but this will improve over the next two decades. Best from 2027 through 2045.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe 2020 Barolo Baudana opens with a burst of plump, juicy, red-toned fruit. Bright acids and persistent tannins are a reminder we’re in Serralunga. The 2020 is going to need a few years to come together, but it is a relatively accessible wine for this part of the appellation. The purity of the fruit here is lovely. Pretty floral and spice overtones lift the finish effortlessly.Vinous Media | 93 VMAttractive notes of cherries, peaches, red plums and violets on the nose. Juicy and bright, with a medium body and delicious red berry fruit accompanied by fine-grained tannins. Drink after 2026.James Suckling | 92 JS

As is often the case when young, this displays prominent mineral reduction scents that add breadth to the wonderfully spicy nose of acacia blossom, carnation, exotic tea and just grated lemon zest. The super-sleek and citrus-tinged big-bodied flavors brim with both minerality and dry extract while delivering stunningly good length on the bone-dry, moderately austere and strikingly long finish. Though not completely impenetrable today, it’s close and this is definitely a ’buy and forget you own it’ for at least 10 years and 12 to 15 would be better. Brilliant.Burghound | 97 BH

An exquisite wine, the nose is almost delicate, with ripe apple and floral notes, and the texture of the wine is astonishingly crisp and fine. There is nothing heavy here and the finish lingers seductively. Rich, typical Bâtard, but with uncommon elegance. Picked on the 24th of August, and the early picking date worked well here. The grapes were lightly crushed and then fermented in cask (40% new).Decanter | 96 DECAn overtly floral-suffused nose speaks of white orchard fruit, star anise, citrus confit and a subtle exotic tea nuance. The sleek and borderline painfully intense big-bodied flavors possess excellent mid-palate concentration before terminating in a very compact, tightly wound and hugely long finale. This is very backward and almost raw in how primary it is and as such, it would be largely pointless to open a bottle before at least 5 years of age. This beauty possess first-rate potential provided you have the patience.Burghound | 95 BHPale lemon and lime. The bouquet shows all the majesty of this vineyard without the over-ripeness which I have found in some past vintages. 29 hl/ha. Superb intensity with a measured ripeness of fruit from these 48 year old vines, which are ploughed by a horse named Croesus. Stretches out beautifully at the back, with some peachier notes at the finish. Really very persistent indeed. Excellent. Tasted Nov 2021.Jasper Morris | 95-98 JM

I always find the Asili to be most fragrant of the Produttori single-vineyard Riservas and the stunning 2020 doesn’t disappoint, offering alluring aromas of dog rose, eucalyptus, new leather, forest floor and woodland berry along with a whiff of sun-warmed hay. Loaded with finesse, the elegant palate also boasts great structure, delivering juicy Morello cherry, raspberry, blood orange, star anise and a hint of truffle alongside tightly woven, fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it bright and balanced. Drink 2026–2032. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOThe 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is gorgeous. It offers a beguiling mix of intense fruit and supporting structure. A wine of depth and complexity, Asili has a lot of everything. It is clearly a step or two above many of the wines in this range. Today, the 2020 comes across as a bit somber, but that may partly be a reflection of its recent bottling. There’s gorgeous depth and resonance in the Asili.Vinous Media | 96 VMThe 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is a slightly darker ruby color and is a bit firmer in character compared to Paje’ and Mucagotta. The Asili has the most depth as well and draws you in on the nose with notes of black cherries, hints of sweet licorice, fresh leather. The palate, which is seamless and in line with the nose, also captures the polished, smooth, ripe tannins, and it’s long on the palate, with a very slowly floating finish. I’m impressed with the polish and evenness that both the Paje and the Asili are currently expressing. Drink this over the coming 20 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDThe Produttori del Barbaresco 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Asili shows terrific balance and freshness thanks to cold evenings that lasted to the end of September. Asili is not far from Pora, and both sites share similar sandy soils. However, Asili is cut off from the warm air currents of the Tanaro River. This wine is more profound as a result, with soft tannins, a linear texture and well-defined mouthfeel. The 2020 vintage is more accessible overall, but you get the profound depth that Nebbiolo offers. This was the fifth of nine wines presented in the Riserva series. Therefore, it falls somewhere in the middle of the power continuum in terms of intensity and richness.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPA dense, energetic style, boasting cherry, blackberry, plum, earth and tobacco flavors. Dense and enlivened with resonant tannins that define the long, sinewy finish. Tar and licorice accents emerge on the aftertaste. Best from 2029 through 2047. 1,111 cases made, 250 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe sandy calcareous limestone soil is associated with the exquisite finesse this site can achieve, and the 2020 is certainly the most elegant of the three cru I tasted. It exudes a purity as well as measured generosity of fruit. Black raspberry and currants are infused with violet essence. It is perhaps a bit more approachable and rounded than usual, almost sumptuous in its layers, then it tightens up as firm, fine tannins drive through to the intense, stony-mineral finish. With just 2.28 hectares shared between three growers, Asili is among the cooperative’s smallest holdings (only Pajè is less).Decanter Magazine | 95 DEC

The 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Montefico is a deep red color, and the nose opens to notes of crushed rosemary, darker crushed stones, and black cherries. The palate is rich in sapidity, saturating the senses with ripe tannins, even acidity, and a long finish. It feels like a more profound and compelling wine in the range for this vintage. Bravo. 2027-2047.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDTwo standouts from the 2020 vintage are Montefico and Asili. The Produttori del Barbaresco 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Montefico comes from a site that is distant from the warm air that travels through the Tanaro River Valley and is closed within an amphitheater. This is a beautiful vineyard that looks toward the village of Neive and has active limestone soils. The wine is especially compact in texture and has a distinctly herbal note, with dried rosemary and lavender, that gives it a Mediterranean or botanical feel. The palate delivers a brief moment of softness, but otherwise the wine is structured and rich.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPA complex, beautifully layered wine, the 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Montefico expresses so many of the attributes that make the wines from this vintage and site so intriguing. The bouquet alone is wonderfully complex. Dried herbs, mint, pine, tobacco and cedar open first, leading to a core of chiseled dark-toned fruit. A vertical, structured Barbaresco, the Montefico is superb.Vinous Media | 96 VMThe most closed of the Riservas at this stage, the 2020 Montefico has aromas and flavors recalling red berry, spice, tobacco and forest floor. It’s brooding and youthfully austere, with firm tannins. Showing more aging potential than its siblings, this will also need a little more time. Drink 2027–2035. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOSmooth and fruity, this red delivers cherry, raspberry, floral and mineral aromas and flavors. Firms up on the finish, where a chalky feel kicks in, yet overall this is open and harmonious. Fine length. Best from 2026 through 2040. 1,388 cases made, 350 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is one of the most elegant, polished wines in this range. Bright red-toned fruit, blood orange, spice, mint and cedar are beautifully lifted. The tannins are remarkably polished for a young, recently bottled Riserva. I admire its poise and elegance. This is an especially refined edition of the Montestefano. In 2020, the mix of vineyards is a bit younger than in the past, as one of the blocks of older vineyards was replanted and not used. If I could have only one of the Riservas in 2020, this would be it!Vinous Media | 97 VMThe 2020 Produttori Montestefano Riserva is absolutely gorgeous, boasting aromas of violet, forest floor, red-skinned fruit and new leather. On the palate, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity support raspberry compote, red cherry, white pepper and star anise. This has a slightly more delicate tannic structure compared to previous vintages that’s not only a feature of the vintage but also due to the fact that a parcel of fifty-year-old vines had to be replanted, meaning the average age of the vines for the 2020 vintage is 35-40 years old. Drink 2026–2032. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOA haunting aroma of rose leads off, underscored with raspberry, cherry, white pepper and mineral flavors. This red is elegant and firmly structured, with refined tannins and vibrant acidity driving the resonant finish. The white pepper note returns on the aftertaste. Shows superb balance and length. Best from 2028 through 2045. 1,358 cases made, 350 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSIn this year and at this stage, the 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is not as full as the Montefico, which is the reverse of most years. A deep ruby/red color, it reveals notes of black raspberries, toasted spice, crushed flowers, and sweet earth. The palate is lush and inviting, with a refined and approachable feel. It has a lot more approachability at this stage than you’d expect, with velvety tannins and a long, floating finish. While the palate has less weight, it has an underlying nervous tension, with mouthwatering notes of sanguine, iron-rich mineral accents. Drink 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 95+ JDNormally, Produttori del Barbaresco President Aldo Vacca puts Montefico, Rabajà, Muncagota and Montestefano at the end of his flight of Riservas. But in this year’s presentation, he put the 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano fourth to last instead of last. This wine is usually the darkest and the most austere in the series. However, the 2020 does not live up to its usual flavor profile. The aromas are quite ripe, even overripe, with prune and raisin. The tannins are soft, leading to a succulent and chewy mouthfeel. My recommendation is to give this wine a shorter drinking window.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

The nose of the 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo is quite expressive and spiced, showing very nicely with ripe aromas of wild raspberries, cherries, fresh herbs, and blood orange spice. The palate gains in intensity, with good energy and a mineral drive. A very successful wine in this vintage, it’s going to have plenty of life over the next 15-20 years. 13,333 bottles were produced.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDAromas of pine forest, dark spice, new leather and hint of truffle form the enticing nose on the impressive 2020 Rio Sordo Riserva. On the palate, taut extremely refined tannins accompany pomegranate, strawberry, citrus and star anise. Drink 2026–2032. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe Produttori del Barbaresco 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo comes from an area that is further removed from the Tanaro River and has southwestern exposures. It shows a typical profile for Nebbiolo with rich fruit, a velvety mouthfeel and textural volume that is delivered with ample blackberry, blackcurrant and spice. The character of this wine is generous and rich. There is plenty of meat on these bones.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo is pretty closed today, which is probably a very good sign for its aging prospects, as this site tends to produce wines that are more open than this. Dark cherry, plum, leather, incense and tobacco offer a decidedly somber expression of Rio Sordo. The 2020 clearly needs time.Vinous Media | 94 VMThis red bursts with cherry, strawberry and rose aromas and flavors, plus mineral, white pepper and anise elements. Firm and lively, showing accessibility and harmony. Enjoyable now, but there’s no rush. Best from 2026 through 2040. 1,111 cases made, 198 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

This is very unique in character, with sliced apple, honeysuckle and lavender. Spearmint, too. It’s medium-bodied with some pine and cooked-apple character in the palate. Flavorful, yet sophisticated and thoughtful. Minerally, compact and focused. 31-year-old vines. Drink now.James Suckling | 96 JSPacks precise flavors of ripe peach, apricot and salted preserved lemon, with lime accents and a savory thread of minerality. Offers a vibrant mouthful of acidity that keeps the flavors in focus, while a hint of dried lemon verbena peeks in on the finish. Drink now through 2029. 1,400 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

This is the fourth vintage of Sandra Bravo’s brilliant old-vine Garnacha from Rivas de Tereso and it’s every bit as good as its predecessors. Aged in 300-litre clay amphoras, it’s wonderfully perfumed and intense, with engaging bramble and red cherry fruit sweetness, tannins and a long, energetic palate. 2023-32Tim Atkin | 96 TA

The 2021 Red Wine California is a new Bordeaux-based red wine that Duncan Arnot and Nathan Roberts made initially to take the place of the 2020 Cabernets that would have been released around this time but were compromised by smoke. The Red Wine was initially intended to be a fun project, but Arnot and Roberts may have stumbled into what is really a pretty serious red with real potential. The 2021 is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon (Massa, Bedrock and Gordenker), 20% Cabernet Franc (Persia) and 20% Merlot (Massa). A powerful, old-school wine, the 2021 is going to need a few years to shed some tannin. I loved it.Vinous Media | 95+ VM

In 2021, the domaine protected this site above all from frost but still lost half their crop, despite being surrounded by the also well-protected vines of Domaine Leflaive. Accessible almost even now, the aromas of green apple and passionfruit, coconut, butter, and baking spice are almost opening even now. There is a lovely freshness and silky texture, yet this is a powerful wine with impressive length and density at the end. This should open in five years and continue to improve for at least twenty-five more.Decanter | 96 DECA gorgeously fresh, airy and cool nose combines notes of green apple, a panoply of white flowers nuances, wet stone and a pretty array of exotic spice elements, especially jasmine. There is a notably more refined mouthfeel to the tautly muscular and overtly mineral-driven medium weight plus flavors that exhibit focused power on the impressively long, balanced, youthfully austere and very classy finale. This is exceptionally stylish and a wine that should easily reward a decade plus of keeping.Burghound | 94 BH

TOP QUALITY PRODUCER Weighty, profound and rich, this is a stunning Les Clos which has an extra level of depth and richness that would please many a Côte-d’Or fan. White flowers on the nose, spice and stone fruit on the palate with 40% oak and a lingering, freshening mineral undertow. A grand cru with gravitas that will drink for 15-20 years. Droin has 1.4ha with vine age averaging 40 years. Its plots are located in various sectors of the cru with some lower down in the western sector, and part on the blue clay soils on the mid-slope.Decanter | 96 DECThe 2021 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a clean and precise bouquet, flint and chalk filtering through the citrus fruit, gaining intensity as it opens in the glass, though I feel the Grenouilles has more sophistication. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, very harmonious, nicely poised with a dab of stem ginger and white pepper towards the finish that is resolutely classic in style. Very fine.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMLike the Grenouilles, there is enough wood to merit mentioning but not enough to overshadow the cool, airy and very fresh aromas of oyster shell, white flower and ocean breeze. The succulent yet powerful and delineated flavors brim with both minerality and dry extract, all wrapped in a driving bitter lemon-inflected and youthfully austere finale. This is a lovely combination of power and refinement that should amply repay a decade plus of cellaring.Burghound | 92-95 BH

Droin owns 0.33ha in the renowned premier cru of Vaulorent. Benoît notes the higher incidence of limestone in the soils, giving more a more aromatic profile, great length and purity. Although the Droin premiers crus are all lovely wines, this is a distinct step up – a premier cru Chablis which would grace any table along with the world’s finest wines. Filigree, precise acidity on the palate – delicate, very refined, yet a wine which will last a very long time.Decanter | 95 DECThe 2021 Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru has a more complex bouquet that matches the Mont de Milieu, real mineralité, struck flint scents blossoming in the glass. The palate is very cohesive with lemon and touches of apricot, spicy and very persistent on the finish. This is an excellent Chablis from Droin.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMSmoky white orchard fruit aromas enjoy added breadth in the form of acacia blossom, citrus rind and quinine. The exceptionally rich and solidly voluminous medium-bodied flavors display focused power and a subtle minerality on the clean, dry and more complex finale where a touch of wood appears. I very much like the persistence, and this should amply repay 6 to 10 years of keeping.Burghound | 91-93 BH

The 2021 Clos des Chevaliers from Jean-Michel Chartron is a breathtakingly beautiful young wine. It delivers a refined aromatic constellation of apple, pear, fresh almond, crème pâtissière, a very complex base of limestone minerality, fruit blossoms, vanillin oak and a beautiful topnote of lemon zest. On the palate the wine is pure, precise and full-bodied, with a gorgeous core of fruit, stunning mineral undertow, a superb spine of acidity and laser-like focus on the long, complex and perfectly balanced finish. (Drink between 2029 - 2070)John Gilman | 97 JGThe 2021 Chevalier-Montrachet Clos de Chevaliers Grand Cru, which includes one new barrel out of the four (instead of the usual dozen), has a vivid bouquet with yellow fruit, nectarine, crushed limestone and subtle fumé aromas. The palate is well balanced with vibrant acidity, taut and fresh with notes of tangerine, citrus fruit and a pinch of spice. Linear in style, this lingers nicely, though it just needs a bit more nervosité on the finish. Still, this is very promising.Vinous Media | 94-96 VMA deft though perceptible dollop of wood sets off the ultra-floral-scented nose of mineral reduction, petrol and a plenitude of spice wisps. The large-scaled flavors are borderline painfully intense while displaying an almost pungent minerality on the chiseled, youthfully austere and strikingly long finale. This is potentially brilliant.Burghound | 93-96 BH4 barrels from 0.55ha is not a huge yield! Fine clean glowing pale yellow. The bouquet is promising too and shows the upper hillside authority of Chevalier. The nervous tension is very well incorporated into the weight of classy fruit, with a fine long and distinguished finish. A beautifully nuanced 2021. Excellent finish. Drink from 2028-2036.Jasper Morris | 93-97 JM

UNDER THE RADAR A very elegant Bougros which matches the ripeness of this full sun site with great acidity and purity of flavour. There is lots of depth here with some zesty citrus characters and a stony, mineral thread in the background. Cleansing acidity on the finish. A grand cru which definitely shows its class, while managing to be both drinkable now yet have a long future ahead.Decanter | 95 DEC

The 2021 Malbec Jardin de Hormigas Meteora originates from Paraje Altamira and was aged for 12 months in concrete vessels. Purple in hue. The subtle, nuanced nose features violet, sage and fennel notes alongside plum and blackberry. It has a dry, lean, chalky texture with an athletic, focused profile in which the energy and mouthfeel enhance the light-footed character. The 2021 is a modern, beautifully sculpted red.Vinous Media | 95 VM

A markedly more floral-suffused and slightly cooler nose reflects notes of both white and yellow peach, citrus confit and a plenitude of spice elements. Here too the palate impression is seductive thanks to the superb concentration of the powerful and almost painfully intense broad-shouldered flavors that also display superb length on the balanced and equally tightly coiled finish. If you can find it, buy it.Burghound | 95 BHThis superb rendition of Bâtard has surprisingly ripe notes of quince and melon de Cavaillon, acacia flower, and spice. The texture is dense and rich but kept lively by the fresh acidity of 2021. The grapes come from three parcels totaling nearly a half hectare. Two are planted with vines more than fifty years of age, and all three are in Chassagne near the border with Puligny. This year Blain stirred the lees (not always done) to give the wine a bit more density and depth.Decanter | 94 DEC

An extremely subtle application of wood can be found on the cool if decidedly reluctant nose of spiced green apple, beeswax and citrus zest aromas. The palate impression of the medium weight plus flavors is quite interesting in that there is excellent concentration and power yet they are not massively scaled while maintaining impeccable balance on the palate etching and stunningly long finish, indeed I could still taste this 3 hours later. This is one extremely classy Montrachet and one of the jewels of the 2021 vintage.Burghound | 97 BHBeeswax and lime blossom, especially the latter, which Guillaume finds typical of Montrachet. The Montrachet shows both class and intensity over and above the Bâtard as indeed should be the case. Brilliantly racy despite the intensity. This year there is one 228 litre barrel instead of the usual 350, and made up in zebra fashion, half new wood with alternate dowels. Drink from 2030-2040.Jasper Morris | 95 JMThere’s only one 228-liter barrel of the 2021 Montrachet Grand Cru, so Boillot asked his favored cooper to assemble a special barrel, with alternating new and used staves. Delivering aromas of pear, honeycomb, freshly baked bread, spices and toasted nuts, it’s full-bodied, rich and concentrated, with a fleshy core of fruit and a long, nutmeg-inflected finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2021 Montrachet Grand Cru is incredibly airy and nuanced. Candied lemon peel, mint, tangerine oil and white flowers show effortless grace. This is an especially restrained, super-elegant Montrachet that shows Puligny’s finesse. The 2021 is absolutely exquisite. I doubt I will ever taste it again, though. Bright saline notes punctuate the super-expressive finish. - Antonio GalloniVinous Media | 93-95 VM

Looking at the flagship estate Viognier, the 2021 Viognier Estate boasts a vibrant, medium to full-bodied, incredibly focused and mineral-driven profile that reminds me of a Condrieu from pure granite soils. Tangerine oil, honeyed flowers, brioche, and citrus notes all emerge on the nose, and it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, a layered, seamless mouthfeel, and one heck of a great finish. I finished my note with "Love it." As I’ve written in the past, no one in the New World does Viognier better than John Alban.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2021 Viognier Estate is tremendously expressive and vibrant! It’s layered and complex on the nose, segueing from savory matchstick to exotic, musky perfume, candied peaches and tangerine oil. The palate offers flesh and unctuousness without fattiness, full flavors that are tempered by a powerful textural bite and flinty streaks and energetic acidity that combine to create an alluring, shimmery finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

One of the Dauvissat specialities, the La Forest is a triumph in 2021. From seven small parcels, the total site is less than 1ha with average vine age more than 40 years. Intriguing, slightly smoky nose, highly distinctive and different to others in the range. Plenty of power, ripe stone fruit flavours, zesty citrus acidity with a herbaceous edge adding an extra dimension. Definitely of grand cru quality.Decanter | 95 DECThe 2021 Chablis 1er Cru La Forest is a young classic, mingling scents of sweet citrus oil and peach with notions of white flowers, struck match, bee pollen and youthful reduction in an incipiently complex bouquet. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and textural, it’s concentrated, taut and incisive, with a long, mineral finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThere is a hint of phenolic character on the aromas of crushed leaf, mineral reduction, lemon-lime and seaweed. The denser, succulent and powerful larger-scaled flavors are supported by a firm acid spine on the stony, youthfully austere and bitter citrus rind finale. This is quite dry and I very much like the balance though I would note that at least some patience is strongly suggested as this is quite tightly wound today. In a word, terrific.Burghound | 94 BHI always think of Vincent Dauvissat’s la Forest as his baby les Clos, as with ten years or more of bottle age, the two often resemble each other a bit aromatically and flavor-wise. The 2021 version of la Forest chez Dauvissat is going to be stellar. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a complex mix of pear, fresh lime, flinty minerality, citrus blossoms, discreet vanillin oak and a topnote of beeswax. On the palate the wine is deep, pure and full, with a superb core of fruit, excellent complexity and cut, fine focus, bright acids and a long, complex and impeccably balanced finish. This is superb. (Drink between 2026 - 2060)John Gilman | 94 JGAlso a fine clear colour, though without a green tint. The Forest 2021 has a solid full fruit on the nose, perhaps less intense at the edges. Very pure white fruit, good acidity, not the volume which the 2022 will have but it is coming out very well even so. Drink from 2026-2033. Tasted: May 2023.Jasper Morris | 93 JM

A rich purple in color, the 2021 Barbera D’Alba Pre-Phylloxera comes from 130-year-old vines from a single cask. It is expansive aromatically, with a perfume that offers more spice in its notes of black pepper, blackcurrant liqueur, and lavender, giving it an almost Syrah-like character. A very special wine, it fills the palate with plummy fruit and cleans up with dark minerals. Full-bodied without being weighted, this is a wine with more aging potential, although it is outstanding now. Drink 2023-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDFrom one of the oldest vineyards in Italy, and one of the very few in all of Europe that survived Phylloxera, the remarkable Cogno 2021 Barbera d’Alba Pre-Phylloxera offers a rare glimpse of what wines made on their original rootstock can offer. Hailing from a small plot of vines well over one hundred years old, it has balsamic aromas of camphor and new leather that mingle with ripe dark-skinned fruit, violet and tobacco. Full-bodied and boasting a weightless concentration, the savory palate delivers ripe black cherry, blood orange, white pepper and licorice alongside enveloping, refined tannins. Thanks to vines planted 520m above sea level, it also boasts vibrant acidity and energy. What a fantastic wine. Drink or hold through 2031. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOElvio Cogno produce just 1,800 bottles annually of this Barbera d’Alba, made from 0.25ha of 140-year-old vines in Berri near La Morra, on chalky, sandy soils. Like the ‘standard’ Barbera d’Alba, it’s vinified in stainless steel and aged in Slavonian oak casks for 12 months, yet here the result is more complex and more concentrated: pure hedgerow berry and violet scents adorn a palate full of sweet, ripe black cherry, with notes of cream, coffee and tar in the background. The finish is long and freshly balsamic, carrying more of that gorgeous violet-infused fruit.Decanter | 94 DEC

The 2021 Barbera d’Asti La Crena is exceptional. Bright, red-toned fruit, chalk, mint, white pepper and rose petal are all beautifully delineated. In recent times Vietti has focused more on freshness in their Barberas, and that is especially evident in La Crena—a wine that used to be very dark and heavy but is far from that today. Clean, mineral notes extend the vibrant finish. Give this a few years to develop the full range of its aromatic breadth. What a wine!Vinous Media | 96 VMAlthough best known for its Barolos, Vietti (now part of the US Krause Group) also releases a number of different Barberas. La Crena is from a 6ha site near the commune of Agliano Terme in the Nizza area. The vineyard, purchased in 1995, was planted in 1932. The grapes are fermented in stainless steel and the wine then spends 18 months in a combination of steel, large casks and barriques before bottling. Stephen Brook: Opulent nose, with dark fruits tempered with some stylish oak. Suave and juicy, fine texture, balanced by firm acidity, which gives some spice and flair to the finish. Vincenzo Arnese: Candied aromas of Morello cherry and wild strawberry, very expressive. Bold palate with robust tannins; time will smooth it, yet quite rich and pleasant. Sara Bachiorri: Cherry and juniper berry nose. Nice concentration, with intense Maraschino flavours and a touch of liquorice stick.Decanter | 95 DEC

The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Gala Vineyard is fabulous. It emerges from a terraced vineyard at 1,800 feet in elevation in Napa Valley, just above the Coombsville AVA. Rich, dark and beautifully structured, the 2021 possesses notable pedigree and character. Black cherry, plum, gravel, licorice, bay leaf and espresso all race across the palate. Readers who enjoy old-school Napa Cabernets will adore this. This wine, if sold in Napa Valley, would cost four to five times as much. Don’t miss it!Vinous Media | 96 VM

The vino de paraje from A Serra in Dragonte 2021 Paixar is as good as ever, with the austerity of the slate slopes and the old vines that deliver low yields of concentrated and characterful grapes. It has a moderate 13.5% alcohol and a very fresh sensation on the palate beyond analysis. The vineyards are in the process to obtain organic certification. 6,500 bottles produced. This is one of the most elegant vintages for this wine.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPAs I have mentioned in the past, Paixar is Luna Beberide’s oldest vine cuvée, with these Mencía vines ranging from eighty-five to one hundred years of age! The vineyard is a south-facing hillside of weathered slate and the wine is now raised entirely in one wine casks during its élevage. The 2021 Paixar is a superb wine in the making, delivering a complex aromatic constellation of black raspberries, graphite, pomegranate, tree bark, grilled meats, a gorgeous base of slate minerality, espresso, woodsmoke and a touch of cedary oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very elegant on the attack, with a superb core of black fruit, impressive transparency and grip, ripe, fine-grained tannins and impeccable balance on the long, focused and complex finish. This is so well-balanced that it is not hard to drink today, but in reality, this is still a young wine and it is infanticide to even contemplate drinking it now, as there is so much more to unfold here with some extended cellaring. This may well be the finest young wine I have yet tasted from Luna Beberide, and I have been a fan of this fine Bierzo estate for a decade now! (Drink between 2031 - 2075)John Gilman | 95 JGA firm, medium-bodied red, with an herbaceous overtone of Mediterranean scrub and crushed pine accenting flavors of tangy blackberry and black plum as well as mineral and spice undertones. Fragrant on the fresh finish, with lingering floral herb and spice notes. Best from 2025 through 2033. 700 cases made, 175 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS