95-97 Point Wines

wines

This remarkable 0.35ha parcel used to belong to Domaine Newman but is now an established part of the Mortet range. All located on white soils on the larger Chambolle-side of Bonnes Mares, this is showing its 70% new wood at the moment but has the structure and concentration to soak it up. It’s sappy, savoury and fine, with a palate-pleasing red fruit sweetness and underlying minerality.Decanter | 96 DECFine full mid purple. Gorgeous rich fruit leavened by some whole bunch effect. Dark raspberry fruit. Spicy notes, and not picked too late. The fruit swells beautifully on the palate, though still in the fine-boned style of the vintage. This has a most beautiful finish which really stretches the fruit out beyond the light tannins. Tasted: December 2018.Jasper Morris | 93-97 JMFrom a parcel with white soils, the 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is very pretty, wafting from the glass with notes of rose petal, blood orange, wild berries and savory bass notes. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, satiny and fine-boned, with chalky structuring tannins, juicy acids and a vibrant core of fruit. The style here is exquisite, and if Mortet can coax a little more depth and concentration from these vines in future vintages while retaining its elegant profile, he will soon number among this grand cru’s greatest exponents.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPA deft application of oak easily allows the earthy aromas of plum, red and dark berries and game to be appreciated. Once again there is very good volume to the powerful and solidly concentrated middle weight plus flavors that culminate in a refreshing and chalky finish that is slightly firmer as well as a bit longer too. This beauty possesses impressive development potential.Burghound | 92-94 BHThe 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru includes around 30 to 40% whole bunches with around 70% new oak. At the moment, the new wood is quite vocal on the nose and slightly occludes the fruit underneath. The palate is medium-bodied with a fresh, sorbet-like entry, notes of blood orange suffusing the red fruit, though I would like a little more depth to evolve on the finish, perhaps a touch more blue fruit too. Needs time to develop its personality.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

The Mugneret sisters’ Échézeaux comes from two contrasting parcels in Les Rouges du Bas and Les Quartiers de Nuits. It’s quite oaky at the moment, thanks to 75% new wood, but there’s plenty of plush, textured fruit to soak up the splinters. It’s floral and refined with the feminine touch that typifies the domaine’s wines.Decanter | 96 DECThe 2017 Echezeaux Grand Cru is still very open and expressive despite its recent bottling, bursting from the glass with aromas of smoky cherries, ripe berries, orange rind, dark chocolate and espresso roast. On the palate, it’s full-bodied, textural and enveloping, with powdery tannins, lively acids and an ample core of fruit, concluding with a long and perfumed finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2017 Echézeaux Grand Cru is far less strict than the previous bottle I tasted at the Domaine. This offers plenty of fruit on the nose, plush for the vintage with copious kirsch, Morello cherries and orange pith scents. Sensual and alluring. Just a hint of green olive lurks in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with finely-chiseled tannins, still plush with a judicious sprinkling of black pepper on the finish. This is a very impressive showing with a disarming persistence in the mouth. Tasted at Maison de Colombier in Beaune.Vinous Media | 94 VMThe family’s parcels in Echézeaux were quite badly frosted in 2016 and this seemed to show just a little in the 2017 version of the wine. It is not that the wine is fluide on the palate, as the depth at the core is very good here, but there seems to be just a touch less energy to this wine in 2017 than what is found in the other two grand crus, not to mention the top premier crus this year. Perhaps it was just the stage that the wine was going through at the time of my visit? The bouquet is certainly lovely, as it delivers a fine mix of plums, sweet dark berries, cocoa powder, duck, lovely spices tones, a fine base of soil and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure on the attack, full-bodied and quite complex, with a good core, refined tannins and very good length and grip on the well-balanced finish. I may have just been a touch hyper sensitive about this wine, but with the fireworks in abundance with the other two grand crus, this wine was just a tad subdued in comparison- though still excellent. (Drink between 2027 - 2080)John Gilman | 93+ JGMade up from Quartiers de Nuits, still sharecropped, and Les Rouges du Bas, which they now run themselves but the crop here was light in 2017, so the proportions between the two is still close to 50/50. This has been matured in 60% new wood. The nose is subtle, delicate charming but far from light. The fruit in the mouth is just ripe enough, deep cherry with some raspberry notes, but absolutely the lacy nature of the appellation. Pure charming fruit here. Very classic medium bodied Echezeaux . Tasted: November 2018.Jasper Morris | 93-97 JMA much more floral-inflected nose displays a lovely array of spice elements to the exotic tea and plum liqueur aromas that are trimmed in just enough wood to mention. There is impressive density to the extract-rich medium-bodied flavors that possess a velvety and seductive texture while delivering very good persistence on the slightly grippy finish. This won’t win any awards for elegance and it’s pretty compact at present though I suspect that like several wines in the range, this will successfully age out.Burghound | 92 BH

A well-defined red, with great focus and precision to the black cherry, black currant, violet and stony, mineral flavors. Ends with a chalky sensation, lending gravitas to the finish and overall impression. Best from 2023 through 2045.Wine Spectator | 95 WSFresh deep purple with a delicious exotic brambly character, pure and forceful, some whole bunch but it is the fruit which wins. Absolutely gorgeous with perfectly balanced acidity and non-aggressive tannins. Liqueur raspberry finish and great length.Jasper Morris | 95 JMThe 2017 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru has a well-defined bouquet of morello cherry, wild strawberry and just a touch of graphite. This is strict and backward, yet very focused, and the oak is nicely integrated. The palate is medium-bodied, taut and fresh, displaying fine tannins, superb mineralité and beautifully integrated oak, and delivering good body and persistence on the finish. An excellent Chambolle-Musigny with real pedigree. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.Vinous Media | 94 VMChristophe Roumier expresses the terroirs of Chambolle with a combination of emotional engagement and winemaking precision. This pale, delicate, almost balletic premier cru is racy and refreshing, with some spicy notes from 50% whole bunches and one-third new barrels.Decanter | 94 DECThe 2017 les Cras from Domaine Roumier is an outstanding bottle in the making. The nose wafts from the glass in a very classy blend of red and black cherries, violets, raw cocoa, gamebird, chalky minerality, vanillin oak and a gently smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, long and very soil-driven in personality, with a sappy core of fruit, fine-grained tannins and a long, focused and beautifully balanced finish. This should start to open nicely in another seven or eight years, but its real apogee is still probably twenty years down the road. (Drink between 2028 - 2065)John Gilman | 93+ JGThe 2017 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras is showing nicely, exhibiting notions of sweet berry fruit, cherries, peonies, spices and creamy new oak. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and enveloping, with a deep core of fruit, lively acids and chalky back-end grip, it will demand a bit of patience, even in this extroverted vintage.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RPA whiff of reduction detracts slightly from the appeal of the overtly floral-inflected nose that reflects notes of violet, lilac, lavender and rose petal along with a fresh mix of red and dark cherries. The sleek, intense and almost pungent mineral-driven medium weight flavors possess terrific delineation on the dusty, firm and youthfully austere finish that goes on and on. This is decidedly backward and compact at present and is going to require at least some patience first.Burghound | 92 BH

There isn’t much of this grand cru to go around, alas, as the Cathiard parcel is a mere 0.17ha. But what a wine it is: plush yet refined, with scented oak, plenty of depth and spice, subtle reduction and layered bramble and black cherry fruit. Fresh and alluring.Decanter | 96 DECOne of the wines of the vintage, the 2017 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with a stunning bouquet of plums, raspberries, dark chocolate, Asian spice, rose petals and rich soil tones. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, enveloping and multidimensional, with stunning concentration and depth at the core, its ample chassis of fine, satiny tannins entirely cloaked in succulent fruit, its finish long and delineated. This is a stunning wine that entirely transcends the limitation of the year.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95-97 RPThe 2017 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru, two new barrels out of three in total, has a very refined, supremely focused bouquet of perfumed scents of black cherries, strawberry pastilles and subtle orange blossom aromas. The medium-bodied palate is extremely precise and detailed, with very fine tannin and transparent mineralité toward the finish (as if you can feel the "bones" of this R.S.V.). Sensual and intellectual to boot.Vinous Media | 95-97 VMTwo new barrels out of three. Rich dense black core with an intense purple rim. The nose suggests a wealth of fruit to come but not ready to deliver yet., The front of the mouth fills up very nicely but the back delivers even more. Proper tension at the finish, this time more black fruit than red. At the moment the wine is more about intensity than elegance but this will certainly follow. Tasted: November 2018.Jasper Morris | 95-97 JMAn exuberantly fresh if restrained nose offers up a panoply of spice elements to the primarily red berry fruit aromas that display additional breadth with hints of orange pekoe tea, lavender and a whisper of sandalwood. The lacy yet concentrated middle weight flavors possess a highly refined mouthfeel and first-rate complexity on the balanced and wonderfully persistent if youthfully austere finish. Like the Malconsorts, this is gorgeous but it is also very clearly built for long-term cellaring.Burghound | 93-96 BH

This cuvée, sourced from a 0.75ha parcel of 46-year-old vines completed its malolactic fermentation late, so was a little more backward than the other releases when I tasted it. It may need more time in barrel and bottle, but this is a superb expression of the premier cru, located at the fresher, more scented end of the spectrum. It has fruit intensity from the small berries (millerands) and a chiselled finish.Decanter | 96 DECNoble imperial purple. There is a such a wealth of vibrant heady fruit, which defies simple categorisation, so much more than just dark cherry, too concentrated for floral descriptors though some peony notes are lurking. There is an explosion of fruit at the back of the palate, a little more red than black, an excellent fresh acidity, a very complete wine with as much concentration as one could hope for in 2017. Tasted: November 2018.Jasper Morris | 95-97 JMCathiard’s emblematic cuvée, the 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts is also a great success, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cherries, licorice, spices, dark berries, grilled game and an elegant framing of new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and fleshy, with a broad-shouldered chassis of velvety structuring tannin, considerable concentration and a long, expansive finish. Due to a late malolactic, this was one of the more primary wines in the cellar, but its immense potential is impossible to miss.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2017 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru is matured in 62% new oak and underwent a slightly later malolactic fermentation than the other cuvées. It has a very pure, detailed bouquet of precise blackberry, briar and crushed stone aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red and black fruit, displaying more grip and backbone than the Les Suchots, and the bold finish perhaps offering less charm. It will certainly require several years in bottle.Vinous Media | 93-95 VM Firm reduction renders this impossible to fairly assess today. Otherwise there is more size, weight and muscle to the big-bodied and more evidently mineral-driven flavors that are almost painfully intense, all wrapped in a gorgeously long finish that really fans out as it sits on the palate. However, it is pointless to buy this without the express intention to cellar it as it is very structured.Burghound | 92-95 BH

I can’t remember a more appealing sample of the Aux Thorey premier cru at this young stage from Sébastien Cathiard. Made with grapes from a 0.43ha parcel planted in 1953, it has a wonderful combination of sweetness, acidity, structure, and plush black cherry and orange zest flavours.Decanter | 95 DECThe 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Thorey 1er Cru is consistent with my previous notes. Raspberry and black cherries, less cassis than noted out of barrel and more Pinoté than expected. The palate is well-balanced with fine-grain tannins. It’s quite Vosne-like thanks to its florality, with a subtle oyster shell-tinged finish. It still requires a couple of years in bottle, but it’s getting there.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Aux Thorey offers up a lovely bouquet of cassis, blackberries, warm spices, licorice and peony. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, with superb concentration and an earthier, chewier profile than the Murgers this year—despite the finesse of its tannins.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPA still youthfully fresh, pure, cool and restrained nose offers an appealingly spicy array of red currant, cherry and soft earth nuances. The mouthfeel of the energetic medium weight flavors is wonderfully refined while possessing fine complexity on the balanced, lingering and still slightly austere finale. Lovely stuff fashioned in an understated style that is still clearly on the way up though another 5 to 7 years should see it at its full maturity. I would note that this isn’t so backward that it couldn’t be enjoyed now if you don’t feel like waiting!Burghound | 91 BHFullish purple with a lighter rim. Some density of red fruit, not quite so intense, certainly ripe, a slight tarriness from the wood, perhaps because of a late malolactic fermentation. It does give grip to the finish though. Tasted: November 2018.Jasper Morris | 90-94 JM

The 300-metre rows in the domaine’s 4ha of Champans run from the top to the bottom of the slope, taking in both brown and red soils. The result is a very complete, self-assured expression of the premier cru, showing the focus and delicacy of a classic Volnay. Silly, sweet and shimmering on the palate, it has very good depth and the concentration to ageDecanter Magazine | 96 DECThe 2017 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru is tasted from two barrels. It demonstrates wonderful grace and precision with mineral-infused cranberry and wild strawberry fruit. There is a sense of vitality and sophistication here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin. The oak is beautifully integrated, notes of orange rind and even just a subtle touch of honey towards the relatively powerful and sustained finish that just feels audacious. Wonderful.Vinous Media | 92 VMA polished style, with dark fruit flavors of black currant and blueberry, marked by solid tannins. Supple and fruity midpalate, tightening up on the long, earth- and mineral-tinged finish. Best from 2022 through 2035.Wine Spectator | 92 WSThe 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Les Champans was showing especially well, bursting with expressive aromas of rose petal, ripe wild berries, blood orange rind and dark chocolate. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, rich and textural, with a layered core of concentrated fruit, fine structuring tannins and a long finish. The suppleness of the vintage has tempered Champans’ tendency to structural muscularity but not its fleshy fruit, making for a delightful gourmand wine.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPOnce again there is a highly appealing freshness to the essence of red cherry, raspberry and floral elements, the latter of which is reflected by the sleek and relatively refined medium-bodied flavors that possess excellent punch on the beautifully persistent though markedly structured finish. This isn’t as refined as the Caillerets but there is slightly better mid-palate density.Burghound | 91-94 BH

This excellent grand cru bottling was wiped out by frost in 2016, but is back with a flourish in 2017. Sourced from a single 100-year-old parcel in Les Cruots, it sees 100% new wood but isn’t particularly oaky. With 30% whole bunches adding some extra sap, this is sweet, stylish and textured, with an undertone of ginger spice and engaging fruit sweetness.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECThe 2017 Echézeaux from Domaine Georges Noëllat is another excellent wine in the making. The wine offers up a fine aromatic constellation of black cherries, black plums, a fine base of dark soil tones, venison, woodsmoke and spicy oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and beautifully sappy at the core, with suave tannins, excellent focus and grip and a very long, velvety and classy finish. This was pretty badly frosted in 2016 and perhaps is a bit easy-going structurally this year, due to last year’s frosts. But, it may well be that there is a more serious structural chassis here currently buried under the gorgeous fruit and it may firm up a bit more when Maxime racks the wine. If this is the case, then my score will prove to be conservative. (Drink between 2027 - 2075)John Gilman | 94 JGCheurlin’s 2017 Echezeaux Grand Cru is showing beautifully from bottle, bursting with aromas of cherries, cassis, rose petals, spices and orange rind, deftly framed by classy new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, broad and succulent, built around powdery tannins and a fragrant core of ripe but lively fruit.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThe 2017 Echézeaux Grand Cru contains between 15 and 20% whole bunches, matured entirely in new oak. It has quite a complex bouquet of blackberry, raspberry confit, tobacco and crushed stone scents, all nicely focused. The palate is medium-bodied, offering sappy black fruit with veins of blue, gentle grip and a sensual, lascivious finish. Give this five to eight years in bottle if you can.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMFrom very old vines in Les Cruots. Maxim has included a few whole bunches(15%) to freshen the wine up with a deliberate little touch of youthful astringency. The deep purple colour is an immediate indicator of the wine’s intensity This is a wine of huge substance if not immediately obviously Echezeaux. Plenty of barrel which it will manage. The whole bunch was needed here I think. Tasted Nov 2018.Jasper Morris | 91-95 JMHere too a deft touch of wood sets off the spicier and more complex aromas that combine plum, black and blue fruit with a broad range of floral elements. The bigger, richer and more concentrated if less evident mineral-driven medium-bodied flavors culminate in a youthfully austere, long and bitter cherry pit-infused finish. This seductive effort should be approachable on the younger side but reward extended keeping.Burghound | 90-93 BH

Diana Snowden-Seysses describes this as a 'spectacular' Clos de la Roche and no one who's tasted the wine would accuse her of hyperbole. Bolder and more concentrated than Dujac's Clos St Denis, this has impressive weight and fruit concentration, 75% whole bunches and 70% new wood. Plush, sweet and intense with notes of black tea and Asian spices. Drinking Window 2026 - 2038.Decanter | 97 DECThe 2018 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is probably now just a step ahead of the Clos Saint-Denis on the nose: stunning violet-infused red fruit with veins of blueberry that unfold exquisitely. The palate is silky smooth in texture, lightly spiced with a cornucopia of mineral-driven red fruit that convey just the right degree of flamboyance. Outstanding.Vinous Media | 97 VMUnfurling in the glass with aromas of sweet berry fruit, dark chocolate, rose petals, orange rind, burning embers and spices, the 2018 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is full-bodied, layered and muscular, with a deep, concentrated and multidimensional core that's framed by rich, powdery tannins and impressively lively acids. This is a dramatic wine that hasn't yet shut down, but I wouldn't plan on opening bottles for at least a dozen years.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RP(Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Red) Discreet but not imperceptible wood and menthol characters set off very ripe liqueur-like aromas of black raspberry, cassis, floral and plenty of sauvage nuances. The sleekly textured and impressively intense large-scaled flavors possess evident power on the dusty, serious and palate coating finish that is definitely quite grippy and a bit coarse, indeed even a bit chewy. I like the overall fruit/tannin/sap balance and while it will take extended bottle age, this borderline massive wine should eventually mature into a magnificent CdlR. (Drink starting 2038).Burghound | 95 BH(Clos de la Roche- Domaine Dujac) The 2018 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche is another gorgeous example of the vintage. The nose is pure, complex and already beautifully refined, offering up a mix of plums, red and black cherries, a refined base of soil tones, gamebird, cocoa powder, mustard seed and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, pure and full-bodied, with a sappy core of fruit, great backend mineral drive, suave, seamless, but firm tannins and a very, very long, vibrant and promising finish. A great vintage of this iconic cuvée. (Drink between 2032-2085).John Gilman | 95 JG

Sensual’ is the word Véronique Drouhin uses to describe this remarkable wine and there is certainly something fleshy, enticing and engaging about this polished, refined Grand Cru bottling. Made with 40% whole bunches and 30% new wood, it’s bright, perfumed and very silky with lacy tannins and no sign of the heat of the vintage. Decadent stuff. Drinking Window 2026 - 2035.Decanter | 96 DECThe 2018 Musigny Grand Cru is slightly lighter than the Bonnes-Mares tasted alongside and has a more detailed, precise bouquet of intense blackberry, mulberry, sous-bois and light charcoal aromas that gain power with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity, very sensual and seductive. The polished and lightly spiced finish is pure class. Outstanding.Vinous Media | 95-97 VM(Maison Joseph Drouhin Musigny Grand Cru Red) A highly restrained nose requires plenty of swirling to coax the super-floral and spicy aromas to reveal nuances of plum liqueur, red cherry and sandalwood. The marvelously refined middle weight flavors possess a beguiling satin-like texture yet there is no lack of punch on the wonderfully long, complex and well-balanced finish. Like the Amoureuses, this stunningly classy effort is a knockout that should also age effortlessly over the long-term. (Drink starting 2036).Burghound | 94-96 BH

The 2018 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru has a very elegant bouquet that is more poised and detailed than the Charmes-Chambertin, offering black cherries, raspberry and ground gravelly scents; floral notes emerge with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, gorgeous blueberry and strawberry fruit and a silky-smooth, sensual finish that is utterly refined. Stunning.Vinous Media | 96-98 VMThe 2018 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with aromas of cherries, raspberries and rose petals, framed by a deft touch of new oak, and on the palate it’s more reserved than the Charmes at this early stage. Medium to full-bodied, deep and elegantly structural, it’s lively and nicely defined, but it will need a bit more time than the Charmes to come around. As readers will remember, Dugat’s vines in Chapelle-Chambertin are located in lieu-dit Les Gémeaux, a site that tends to produce somewhat more structured wines than adjacent lieu-dit La Chapelle.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95+ RP(Domaine Claude Dugat Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru Red) A riper and more deeply pitched nose is comprised by notes of plum, cassis, violet and discreet earth and spice nuances. The sleek and almost painfully intense big-bodied flavors possess event power and muscle while delivering excellent persistence on the minerally, crunchy and youthfully austere finish. This too is very clearly constructed for the long-term and it’s pointless to buy this without the expectation of aging it properly. (Drink starting 2036).Burghound | 92-94 BH

This was the last wine I tasted on my three-week Burgundy tour and it was a great way to finish. Sourced from a 0.33ha block of 60-year-old vines on the Chassagne side of the Grand Cru, it's consistently the most patrician wine in Caroline Lestimé's range. Spicy, structured and stylishy oaked in 60% new barrels, it's powerful yet fresh with wonderful energy. Drinking Window 2023 - 2035.Decanter | 96 DEC(Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru White) : A notably ripe and ever-so-mildly exotic but not really surmature nose consists primarily of spicy white orchard fruit along with hints of wood, white flowers and viognier. The rich, opulent and vibrant broad-shouldered flavors possess lovely complexity while delivering excellent length on the powerful and focused if somewhat linear finish. This will almost certainly add body with age, and it appears to be structured for mid to even longer-term cellaring. (Drink starting 2030)Burghound | 93 BH

The most Vosne-Romanée-like of the Nuits-St-Georges Premiers Crus according to Etienne Grivot, with a character that he identifies as ’a little wild’, Aux Boudots often produces on my favourite wines at the domaine. It’s plush, smooth and glossy all right, with a sheen of aromatic 30% new wood, fine tannins and some underlying bounce and vitality.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECA well of black currant and blueberry mark this sappy, yet beefy red. It’s a tannic Titanic, with a dense, compact finish that echoes the dark fruit, spice and iron notes. The aftertaste is saturated with fruit. Impressive, yet will require time to resolve the tannins. Best from 2025 through 2047. 53 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSHalf the vines were ripped out 5 years ago and will come back into play in 2020 maybe. Bouncing concentrated dark red fruit, not too exuberant on the palate though, an excellent fine-grained tannic structure behind, and exceptional length. This has been picked at optimum ripeness. Tasted Nov 2019.Jasper Morris | 94-96 JMThe 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Boudots 1er Cru comes from the old part of the vineyard, half of which was replanted in spring 2017 (these young vines may reenter this cru next year, or more likely the Bourgogne Rouge until they reach maturity). The crisp, fresh, well-defined bouquet is probably the best among Grivot’s Nuits Saint-Georges this year, reflecting the pedigree of this vineyard. The palate is medium-bodied with impressive mineralité and tension, quite "strict" in style but boasting so much coiled-up energy on the finish that you could easily drink it now. This is a superb offering that should age with grace and style over many years.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMThis too is quite firmly reduced to the point that it’s unreadable today. Otherwise the less concentrated but finer middle weight flavors exude evident minerality on the tautly muscular bitter cherry-inflected finish that is a bit leaner and less complex. The younger vines are in evidence though to be fair, and clear, this is still a very pretty effort.Burghound | 89-92 BH

At Boillot they normally make a single, 350-litre barrel of Montrachet, lightly crushing the fruit before pressing in a basket press. The results in 2019 were absolutely beautiful. Ripe pear and fresh flowers dominate the initial attack. On the palate there is a lovely intensity and richness, with a dense, creamy, buttery texture and huge reserves of substance that will keep this wine ageing for years to come. Drinking Window 2024 - 2039.Decanter | 97 DECInterestingly, here the nose resembles a grand cru Chablis with its oyster shell, iodine, quinine, lemon-lime and bee’s wax-scented nose. There is outstanding volume and concentration to the overtly powerful and muscular flavors that are supported by a citrus-tinged and markedly firm acid spine that also shapes the cuts-like-a-knife finale. As the length of my initial projected drinking window suggests, it would be pointless to open this beauty before it has at least a decade of aging as it should easily repay two of them. In sum, this is quite simply stunningly good. (Drink starting 2039)Burghound | 97 BHNotes of orange oil, pear, peach, yellow apples, fresh bread and nutmeg introduce Boillot’s 2019 Montrachet Grand Cru, a full-bodied, satiny and concentrated wine that’s textural and enveloping, with an ample core of fruit, lively acids and a long, expansive finish. More tightly wound than the demonstrative 2018, his is a superb effort that will reward bottle age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RP

Like the Clos de Vougeot, here too there is an initial note of bourgeon de cassis though considerable eventually coaxes the intensely floral-suffused aromas of spicy jasmine tea, orange peel and dark berries to reveal themselves. There is stunningly good power and intensity to the backward broad-shouldered flavors that brim with an abundance of dry extract and an almost pungent minerality on the precise, dusty and gorgeously long finish that is just a bit more structured. This is seriously good juice with the potential to match. (Drink starting 2039)Burghound | 97 BHThe 2019 Richebourg Grand Cru is much more backward on the nose compared to the outgoing Romanée-Saint-Vivant, offering dark berry fruit, cold wet limestone, briar and hints of iris flower, but showing fabulous delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with filigreed tannins framing extraordinary pure black fruit suffused with even more mineralité than the aforementioned RSV. It fans out wonderfully on the finish and asserts its authority over the rest of Hudelot-Noëllat’s portfolio. Brilliant.Vinous Media | 96-98 VMThe domaine owns 0.28ha of Richebourg in Les Richebourgs, between Grivot and DRC, that were planted in 1950, with this parcel making a magnificent and monumental wine. This 2019 is still a bit closed initially, but opens with some time on the palate to show great depth of fruit, despite a very firm structure and massive extract. Less exotic and forward than the wine made by the proprietors on either side, but equally compelling. Drinking Window 2024 - 2049.Decanter | 95 DEC

(Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru Red) An expressive nose is comprised by notes of freshly sliced plum, red cherry, soy, hoisin and discreet hints of sandalwood. There is excellent power and intensity to the focused and beautifully textured, indeed even silky, medium weight flavors that deliver outstanding depth and persistence on the impeccably well-balanced and youthfully austere finish. This wonderfully refined effort is at once classy yet impressively punchy and is a wine that should also age effortlessly. A ripe yet still classically styled RSV. (Drink starting 2034)Burghound | 96 BHThe 2019 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru is superb, wafting from the glass with aromas of plums, cassis, exotic spices, dark chocolate and rose petals, framed by a deft application of new oak. Full-bodied, sumptuous and enveloping, it’s deep and concentrated, with lively acids, broad structural shoulders and a long, perfumed finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95-97 RPThe 2019 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru, matured in around 50% new oak, has an enthralling, pure black cherry, cassis, crushed violet and blood orange bouquet that soars from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannins. Opulent and showy; hints of licorice and mint suffuse the intense finish. It closes up a little toward the finish, but this is a magnificent Romanée-Saint-Vivant that should age over the next 30–40 years.Vinous Media | 95-97 VMThis 0.48ha parcel planted in 1920 is one of the jewels of the estate and is located between Liger-Belair and Jean Mongeard. In 2019, these vines have delivered fruit of superb intensity, with marvellous, fresh blackberry fruit, hints of violets and a savoury edge. On the palate there is impressive density, concentration and a straight line of tannic structure that leads it to a lingering finish. Drinking Window 2024 - 2049.Decanter | 95 DEC

From 0.17 hectares of vine worked by horse and including a large proportion of whole bunch, the 2019 Chambertin Grand Cru has a fragrant bouquet of pure dark cherry, boysenberry, crushed stone and pressed violet aromas. It reminds me of a Clos de la Roche in some ways. The palate is well balanced with fine and quite sturdy tannins. It does not possess the sophistication of the preceding Grands-Echézeaux, but there is good energy on the finish. Very fine. Vinous Media | 91-93 VM(Domaine du Clos Frantin (Nuits St. Georges) - Domaines Albert Bichot Chambertin Grand Cru Red) Here too there is enough wood to mention though not enough to be especially intrusive on the equally good and restrained nose that grudgingly offers up notes of red and dark cherry, sauvage, cool earth and a whiff of game. There is excellent intensity to the dense, powerful and muscular large-scaled flavors that exude an abundance of minerality on the austere, backward and sneaky long finish. This too needs to develop better depth, but the apogee of this wine is so far into the future that more is all but guaranteed to emerge with time. (Drink starting 2039).Burghound | 91-94 BH

In spite of the ripe-orange and exotic-fruit character that pours from the glass, there’s nothing superficial about this wine. Thanks to its generosity and very attractive fruit, this makes a very friendly initial impression on the palate, then the intense minerality comes through, building to a serious crescendo at the very fresh finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JSA rich, opulent white, this features lemon cake, lime blossom, baking spice and stone flavors. Though intense, there’s also a sense of restraint, yet the finish is long and complex. Drink now through 2027. 630 cases made, 66 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS(Domaine du Pavillon (Pommard) - Domaines Albert Bichot Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru White) Smoky aromas of Granny Smith apples, acacia and a plethora of citrus influences are trimmed in discreet wood influence. There is fine volume to the delicious and almost creamy larger-scaled flavors that brim with both dry extract and minerality on the lemon-tinged and youthfully austere finale. This compact and serious effort should definitely benefit from mid-term or perhaps even a decade of cellaring. (Drink starting 2027)Burghound | 93 BHBichot has 1.2ha in Languettes, high on the slope, with a south/south-east exposition. The southern exposition is of major importance here, if one is to avoid over-ripeness. In 2019, the wine has very exotic, almost tropical aromas, while on the palate the texture is dense and creamy, and the ripe pear fruit touched with honey is even more apparent. A wine of luxurious charm. Drinking Window 2024 - 2039.Decanter | 92 DECThe 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru comes from 1.2 hectares of vines in Les Longuettes. Matured in 35% new oak, it has a perfumed nose of yellow fruit, nectarine and peach skin aromas. The palate is well balanced with a light pineapple and passion fruit opening and well-judged acidity. Very harmonious, with a gentle landing on the finish. Maybe it is missing some tension and nerve, but the flavors are irresistible. Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

A touch of fresh, ripe lemon zest is all that peeps though on this wine’s shy and closed nose. More air reveals lovely hints of petrichor and chalk. The palate is rounded and textured. Yeastiness and chalky depth align themselves to bright, ripe lemon, and the lemony chalkiness lasts beautifully. Drink by 2040.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEShowing rather more of a rich, toastier style, this has some driving mineral characters underneath with lovely concentration. The freshness imparted by the east-facing, steeply-sloping face of Blanchot contrasts with the warmth and ripeness of the 2019 vintage. A Grand Cru which has a fine balance of richness, power and structure, that is already drinking very well. Drinking Window 2022 - 2030.Decanter | 93 DEC

The cooler terroir has produced an exotic wine with ripe black fruit, a floral note, and a savoury, salty hint of earth. The texture is silky and the tannins are firm. There is enough substance here to age for decades. The Trapet family has owned this parcel of Latricières since 1904 when it purchased 1.5ha from the Savot family. Jean-Louis now works 74 acres, as do his cousins Nicolas and David Rossignol. Drinking Window 2026 - 2060.Decanter | 97 DECThe 2019 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru, which contains around 60% whole bunch, has a well-defined bouquet of ebullient dark berry fruit laced with light woodland and earthy scents. So much vigor and coiled-up energy! The palate is medium-bodied with wonderful balance, supple tannins, perfectly judged acidity and a crescendo of flavors toward the splendid, mineral-driven finish. The cooler microclimate really benefited this cuvée in 2019, and it is one of the Trapet’s finest contributions to the vintage.Vinous Media | 96-98 VMThe 2019 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru is the finest rendition of this cuvée I’ve ever tasted from Trapet. Unfurling in the glass with an incipiently complex bouquet that mingles dark berry fruit with nuances of coniferous forest floor, peonies, bergamot and exotic spices, it’s full-bodied, layered and velvety, with terrific depth and concentration, framed by powdery tannins and animated by a lively spine of acidity that carries through the mouthwateringly mineral finish. I wrote that Trapet’s 2018 Latricières was worth a special effort to seek out—I’m happy to have some in my cellar—and that applies a fortiori to this brilliant 2019.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95-97 RP(Latricières-Chambertin- Domaine Trapet Père et Fils) The 2019 Latricières-Chambertin from Domaine Trapet is a stunning young wine in the making, with a purity and freshness of fruit that are really quite rare in this warm vintage. The bouquet is deep and complex, wafting from the glass in a refined mix of sweet dark berries, black cherries, coffee bean, grilled meats, a beautifully complex base of dark minerality, just a touch of spice from whole clusters, mustard seed, black tea, woodsmoke and cedar. On the palate the wine is pure, young and full, with impeccable focus and balance, a lovely core of fruit, ripe, buried tannins and a very long, complex and utterly superb finish. This wine will have a very velvety texture when it is ready to drink. (Drink between 2035-2100)John Gilman | 95 JGAn interesting nose combines notes of coffee grounds and herbal tea with those of cool red currant, raspberry, spice and suggestions of the sauvage. There is fine volume to the earth and mineral-infused middle weight flavors that flash almost painful intensity on the youthfully austere, linear, focused chiseled finish that also exhibits a touch of warmth. This is a classic Latricières that needs to add depth but appears to have the stuffing to do so in time. Lovely. (Drink starting 2031)Burghound | 92 BH

A lovely, accessible wine with bright cherry and blackberry fruit, scented with spice and smoke. The texture is voluptuously rich, almost decadent, and lingers enticingly on the finish. From the oldest vines in Trapet’s 0.6ha parcel of Chapelle-Chambertin, planted in 1945. Jean-Louis notes that the vines ripen early because of the thin soils here.Drinking Window 2026 - 2060Decanter | 96 DECJean-Louis Trapet’s 2019 Chapelle-Chambertin is one of the great wines of the vintage, coming in at 13.5 percent octane and offering classic aromatic and flavor profiles, superb depth, impeccable balance and lovely structure for long term aging. The utterly refined bouquet hops from the glass in a mix of cherries, red plums, cocoa powder, a gorgeous base of soil, pigeon, mustard seed, a touch of sweet stem tones and a suave foundation of cedary oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, focused and structured, with a great core of fruit, superb transparency and grip, firm, ripe tannins and a long, complex and very classy finish. This is a proper example of Chapelle and will need plenty of bottle age to start to drink with generosity, but it is one of the stars of 2019. (Drink between 2035-2100)John Gilman | 95 JGNotes of rose petals, orange rind, cassis, rich soil tones and raw cocoa preface Trapet’s 2019 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru, a medium to full-bodied, elegantly sumptuous and enveloping wine that’s deep and complete, with lively acids, velvety tannins and a long, saline finish. As I’ve observed before, this derives exclusively from holdings located in lieu-dit En la Chapelle.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94-96 RPThe 2019 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru, which includes 100% whole bunch, has a complex bouquet of black fruit, espresso and crushed stone aromas, displaying very good intensity. The focused palate is medium-bodied with very good structure and fine grip. At the moment, the whole bunch influences this Grand Cru, which is slightly bitter on the finish and leaves a strong saline aftertaste. I would like to see just a tad more elegance, à la Domaine Dugat, as it matures.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMThe whole cluster vinification is discernible on the ripe and elegant aromas of herbal tea, plum liqueur, violet and a pretty range of spice and soft wood elements. The mouthfeel of the medium weight plus flavors is also quite suave and seductive but with more volume and a bit more density as well before tightening up on the lingering if slightly warm finish. This is firm but not especially austere and a wine that should age gracefully while being accessible after only a few years. (Drink starting 2031)Burghound | 92 BH

A ripe and beautifully layered nose consists of notes of green fruit, citrus, iodine and mineral reduction. The powerful, rich and voluminous big-bodied flavors possess fine mid-palate density that coats the palate with sap before concluding in an austere, long and vaguely rustic finale. This is an imposing Bougros that should age effortlessly over the next decade plus.Burghound | 92-94 BHAromas of aniseed and lemon rind with dried apple and pear follow through to a full body. Yet, it’s tight and layered with a compact palate and plenty of fruit. Needs time to open. Try after 2023.James Suckling | 94 JSThis is not the legendary Côte de Bouguerots bottling, but the regular Bougros – which still stood out alongside its peers. The fruit shows grand cru weight and the sunshine quality of the vintage, juicy but well balanced, while the crystalline purity of the finish sets this wine apart.Jasper Morris | 94 JMAromas of crisp green orchard fruit, clear honey, peach, mint and buttery pastry introduce the 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros, a full-bodied, ample and enveloping wine that’s one of the more textural, dramatic wines in the range. Unusually deep and concentrated, its immediate, charming profile belies considerable aging potential this year.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93+ RPVibrant, this white combines green apple and citrus flavors with an iodide element. This is lean and intense, with a lingering citrus and mineral aftertaste. Drink now through 2027. 70 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

A highlight this year is the 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur, a full-bodied, deep and layered wine evocative of citrus oil, clear honey, blanched almonds, beeswax and iodine. Satiny-textured and concentrated, with racy acids and a long, electric finish, it’s another immensely promising wine from Fèvre that should be forgotten in the cellar.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPA classic Chablis nose features notes of pear, green apple, iodine and sea breeze. The dense, serious and overtly powerful big-bodied flavors flash a sleek muscularity on the textured, sappy and youthfully austere finish that exhibits outstandingly length. This bad boy of a Valmur won’t win any awards for refinement but it is beautifully constructed and clearly built-to-age for a very long time.Burghound | 92-95 BHThey have the plot along the road that divides the steep slope from the crest, which plateaus out and gets E/SE/SW exposure. Pale lemon colour, rich sunny nose, chalky undertones. This has the backbone, it has the shoulders, and finishes on classical Chablis, with just an additional touch of all-spice. Back comes the acidity to complete the job. Tasted Jul 2020.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JM

A relatively young estate, Lavantureux is definitely a domaine to watch. Arnaud and David are now running things, with a recent 0.95ha acquisition in Vau de Vey. Farmed by hand, this is a delightful Premier Cru which emphasises the character of this steep, stony climat. Lovely density on the palate with an intriguing lime character, balanced by mineral, flinty notes and a touch of creamy oak adding more complexity. Subtle and nuanced. Drinking Window 2022 - 2027.Decanter | 95 DECAromas of honeysuckle, lemon grass and citrus follow through to a medium body with fine tannins and a fresh, bright finish. Lots of lemon rind at the end. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSThe 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Vau de Vey is a fine success, offering up aromas of citrus oil, white flowers, nutmeg and smoke. Medium to full-bodied, bright and chiseled, with fine depth at the core and a saline finish, this is certainly oak-inflected in style but integrates that patina more completely than the Vauprin.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2019 Chablis Vau de Vey 1er Cru has a lovely, pure, well-defined bouquet of mineral-tinged citrus fruit, dewy meadow and light flinty scents. The palate is taut and fresh with orange peel and a touch of yellow plum on the entry. There are hints of tropical fruit, but they are discreet, and the wine maintains wonderful focus on the finish. Delicious!Vinous Media | 92 VM

Bottling in summer 2021, the 2019 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Cuvée Vieilles Vignes bursts with aromas of cherries, sweet berries and plums mingled with hints of licorice, cinnamon, red fruit compote and orange rind. Full-bodied, rich and concentrated, it’s muscular and textural, with broad shoulders and a deep, layered core of fruit. Concluding with a long, saline finish, this is the most powerful wine in the range, and it will require the most patience.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPPonsot is the largest landowner here, with old vines whose average age is 65 years. Everything at Ponsot is calculated for maximum purity of expression: the fruit is completely destemmed, extraction is gentle and no new casks are used in the maturation. The results in 2019 are absolutely marvellous, with lush dark plum and cassis fruit, alongside savoury, earthy accents. The texture is silky, dense and long. A monumental wine. Drinking Window 2029 - 2049.Decanter | 96 DEC(Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru Red) A cool, pure and highly complex nose combines aromas of essence of plum liqueur, black cherry, violet, earth and plenty of spice components. The sense of refinement continues on the sleek, succulent and almost lacy mineral-driven and wonderfully textured medium weight flavors that deliver superb persistence on the exceptionally firm, beautifully balanced and youthfully austere finale. It’s not all the time that Clos de la Roche is described as a wine of class, but in 2019, this wine has that highly desirable attribute. In a word, terrific. (Drink starting 2037)Burghound | 96 BH