95-97 Point Wines

wines

The beautiful 2019 Brunello Ugolforte from San Giorgio is elegantly structured and delicious. Showing the intensity of the vintage but also restraint, it delivers juicy raspberry, steeped cherry, licorice and tobacco alongside smooth, velvety tannins. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: N/A Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolforte opens with a minty freshness as flint stone and dusty rose give way to crushed cherries. Silky and pliant, this possesses an elegance not often seen, with violet and lavender tones accentuating its polished red and blue fruits. This tapers off with sweet tannins balanced by an orange hint. A structured yet mouth-watering sensation lingers on. What a beauty this is.Vinous Media | 94 VMFrom the sister property of Poggio di Sotto, San Giorgio Ugolforte’s 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino takes a youthful ruby hue and is a riper style of Brunello, with rounded aromas of black raspberries, candied violets, sweet cedar, and fresh Mediterranean herbs. Medium to full-bodied, it fills the palate with ripe tannins and retains good freshness through its long finish. A lovely Brunello with a more rounded and approachable feel, it’s going to show at its best over the coming 12-15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDCherry and berry aromas with hints of sandalwood follow through to a medium body with integrated tannins that are fine and focused. Silky texture. Delicious finish. Very elegant with nice structure. From organically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but better in two or three years.James Suckling | 94 JSThere is deep black fruit and black plum on the San Giorgio 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolforte. although it takes a little patience to get there. The wine is restrained or closed initially, and it’s hard to draw anything out for the first 15 minutes or so after the bottle is opened. Once it gets going, you are treated to sweet cherry, redwood, almond biscotti and dried rose potpourri. It ages in large Slavonian oak casks.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPFrom 25-year-old vines on steep stony slopes in Montalcino’s southeast. As with its sister Brunello from Poggio di Sotto, San Giorgio sees a spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts and long maceration. Aromas are dominated by oily herbs like winter mint, rosemary and sage at this early stage. Robust and broad, this emphasises vigour over finesse but is packed with personality. Spice and chocolate join balsamic nuances on a backdrop of glossy and concentrated dark red cherry. The tannic grip gives quite a tactile experience.Decanter | 91 DEC

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino shows delicate aromas of blue flower, redcurrant, cranberry and potting soils. It has all the basic components of a classic Sangiovese. Fruit is sourced from across the estate vineyard holdings ranging from 200 to 600 meters above sea level, or the ceiling of the appellation. Baking spice is delivered to the palate with silky, almost glossy tannins. The mouthfeel is extremely fine. This is a very Burgundian Brunello, with 38,500 bottles made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPA beautiful cologne lifts from the glass of the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino, which pours a red/orange-tinged color. Aromas of wild cherries, truffles, bittersweet chocolate, and dried orange peel are followed by a medium to full-bodied red with fine, coiled tannins, a linear feel, and refreshing lift all the way through the finish. I love the tertiary notes that come through, and this wine will only improve and gain in complexity over time. Drink 2025-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino opens slowly in the glass, dusty and floral, with depths of dark red fruit and exotic spice. This is silky smooth with medium-bodied textures and vibrant acidity that propels its tart wild berry fruits and mineral tones as rosy inner florals race across the palate. It tapers off with admirable length and concentration. Crunchy tannins frame the experience without slowing its momentum. The 2019 is a gorgeous blend of vintage and house style. Don’t miss it.Vinous Media | 93 VMRiccardo Campinoti’s estate Brunello is as much a panorama of the Montalcino zone as it is a demonstration of his approach. The sum of fruit from diverse plots in both cooler and warmer corners, it sports Le Ragnaie’s signature tautness. Delicately fragrant, the nose hints at game meat then transitions to brushwood, rosehip and alpine blossoms. Decidedly midweight, the cranberry and redcurrant core is all cinched in. Bright acidity and firm, crisp tannins provide a solid framework. This needs another year in bottle to reveal its depths.Decanter | 92 DEC

This wine kisses the sky with fruit from bush-trained vines planted in 2012 at the highest point of the appellation (above 600 meters in elevation). This is a wine to watch in the future, especially as these vines grow older. The Le Ragnaie 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Passo del Lume Spento has a fine and direct bouquet with vibrant red fruit, cranberry, pressed rose and rosemary blossom. Fruit and floral components run very strong, and you don’t get as much of the earthiness that we find in the other wines. Instead, it feels mineral and salty. Crunchy fruit and powdery tannins fuel a very long and polished finish with a contained 13.5% alcohol content. This wine is fluid and more of a shape-shifter. Only 4,400 bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPTo close out the single vineyard wines, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Passo Del Lume Spento takes a youthful red/garnet-tinged color and, as with the rest of the wines of this vintage from Le Ragnaie, has a signature stamp of incredible perfume lifting from the glass out of the gate, with notes fresh Mediterranean herbs, ripe cherries, anise, and crushed rose petals. Ripe citrus-toned fruit fills the palate of this medium-bodied Brunello, which has great mouthwatering acidity that floats through the sides of the palate, angular tannins, and a mineral-toned finish. It’s packed with tension, though, and is deserving of another year or two of cellaring before drinking 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Passo del Lume Spento opens with a mentholated freshness, as crushed stone and minty herbs complicate dusty dried strawberries. This is juicy in character and wickedly fresh, showing its minerality up front as a tart wave of wild berries descends upon the palate. It finishes with cheek-puckering tension, potent and primary, along with a coating of fine-grained tannins, all balanced by a bump of residual acidity. This is a spice bomb, yet it has the energy to balance. The Passo del Lume Spento hails from bush-trained vines planted in 2012 at 621 meters.Vinous Media | 94 VMCampinoti’s highest altitude single-vineyard bottling comes from a one-hectare plot planted in 2011 at a lofty 621 metres. The third release as a Brunello, it hits its stride with the 2019 vintage. While still reserved in aromas, this sings with inner mouth perfumes of white blossom and rose against a backdrop of sour red cherry and pomegranate. The mouth-cleansing tannins are linear, and brisk acidity whisks the wine across the palate. Slender but not bony, this has sufficient flesh to harmonise the structure. Really quite thrilling in its sinewy, chiselled personality.Decanter | 94 DEC

Very attractive combination of dried fruit and spices with black cherries and plums. Aromas of flowers and sandalwood, too. Full-bodied and very refined, yet intense, with plush, velvety tannins that are wonderfully integrated and intertwined with the fruit. Ripe center palate. Tight at the end, suggesting the need for some serious bottle age. Very structured. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 20th anniversary bottling of Testamatta made, from the 2019 vintage, in brand new winemaking facilities in Florence. This just shines from the moment it’s poured. Layered and complex this is a gem of a wine filled with cherry, raspberry, damson and caramel notes alongside a savoury edge that makes it so moreish. Tannins that support but don’t overwhelm give a nice overall weight to the palate while the flavous linger on the long finish. Made from old vines on stony soils on the Tuscan hilltops. Grapes are selected and sourced from the best five vineyards, which are divided into parcels and harvested up to eight times. Fermentation is in open-top barriques for the smaller parcels and in barrels or stainless steel for the larger ones without any temperature controls. Maceration for 7-10 days then moved into old barriques for 20 months.Decanter | 96 DECA pure expression of Sangiovese, the Bibi Graetz 2019 Testamatta is a wine in constant evolution. Bibi has added 17 more hectares of vineyard to the program, with 12 hectares in Fiesole (north of Florence) and 5 hectares in San Donato in Colle (south of Florence) with 70-year-old vines. The base of the wine sees fruit from old vines planted in the 1950s in the cool-climate Lamole subzone of Chianti Classico. These new terroirs bring a lot more aromatic nuance and complexity to the wine with perfumed blue flower, candied orange peel, wet earth and plumy black fruit. White Alberese soils add a strong chalky mineral signature to the finish of this elegantly streamlined and linear Tuscan red.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPDelicate aromas of red berry, sunbaked earth and dark spice shape the nose along with a whiff of Mediterranean scrub. Bright and elegantly structured, the linear palate features juicy Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry and baking spice framed in polished tannins. Drink through 2029.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEA sleek, well-delineated red, delivering cherry and raspberry flavors on an elegant frame. Fresh, and builds nicely on the mineral- and floral-laced finish. Drink now through 2028. 10,000 cases made, 2,500 cases imported. Wine Spectator | 90 WS