98-99 Point Wines

wines

Smooth and delicious, the 2019 Podere Le Ripi Cielo d’Ulisse has captivating aromas of violet, ripe plum, exotic spice, new leather and a whiff of truffle. Full-bodied and enveloping, the palate shows ripe black cherry, raspberry compote, licorice, blood orange and tobacco alongside a backbone of tightly woven, fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced while a salty note lingers on the close. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOA medium red hue, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Cielo D’Ulisse is the fourth vintage coming from the vineyards overlooking the Ombrone River. It’s wonderfully expressive and cascades from the glass with aromas of wild Mediterranean herbs, dusty earth, ripe raspberry, fresh leather, and porcini. Medium-bodied, it’s graceful through the palate, with fine tannins, even acidity, and clean mineral accents. It’s a very appealing wine with a lot of character to enjoy over the next 15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDDark and intense, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Cielo d’Ulisse entices with a burst of exotic spice, zests of tangerine, cedar shavings and rum-soaked cherries. This is cool-toned and racy in style, with crisp wild berry fruits enhanced by vibrant acidity. Violet inner florals arch across the palate. This maintains momentum even as crunchy tannins descend upon the senses, leaving a stain of tart cranberry and orange slowly fading. I expect that three to five years of cellaring will reveal a Brunello of boundless energy. The Cielo d’Ulisse is a single vineyard wine that hails from vineyards in the extreme southwest of Montalcino.Vinous Media | 94 VMVanilla, cherry and blackberries macerate in cloves and cinnamon on the nose. The palate is tart and sweet with cherries and citrus before herbs and soil push back and add a sophisticated, earthy, bitter note.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEAn elegant red, offering vivid cherry and strawberry flavors driven by vibrant acidity, with sinewy tannins underneath. Accents of earth and flowers chime in as this winds down on the dense finish. Wine Spectator | 93 WSThe clean and sumptuous 2019 Cielo Ulisse bounces out of the glass with cherry and apricot, as traces of chestnut flit in the background. A pulpy core of juicy red berries is framed by sandy tannins and lifted by bright acidity. This tapers off with a twist of orange peel. Midweight, pretty and immediately approachable. Francesco Illy’s holdings in Montalcino’s western limit sit at a low 150 metres on alluvial, silty soil strewn with stones. While the vines bask in the strong afternoon sun, the thick surrounding forest helps mitigate the heat.Decanter Magazine | 92 DEC

The 2019 Palafreno, 100% Merlot from Greve’s Ruffoli district, is stunning, not to mention one of the greatest wines I have ever tasted here. Silky, plush and exceptionally vivid in the glass, the Palafreno possesses breathtaking beauty that captivates all the senses. At this early stage, the 2019 is all primary dark fruit, but the layers will start to open with cellaring. Readers who can find it should not hesitate. It’s a real head turner.Vinous Media | 98 VMThis is very polished and structured with a finesse to the tannins which spread across the palate. It’s full-bodied with fine fruit and a driven finish. It needs three or four years to soften and open. From organically grown grapes. Vegan. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 95 JS(Palafreno- Agricola Querciabella) Querciabella’s Super Tuscan bottling crafted solely from merlot is absolutely beautiful in the 2019 vintage. The wine is fairly ripe in this vintage, coming in at 14.5 percent octane, but shows off its signature purity and precision on both the nose and palate. The beautifully refined bouquet wafts from the glass in a mix of sweet dark berries, black plums, tobacco leaf, violets, a gorgeous base of soil, a hint of Tuscan herb tones and a deft foundation of cedary new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a plush core of fruit, excellent mineral undertow, ripe tannins, tangy acids and excellent length and grip on the superbly balanced finish. Like every vintage of Palafreno I have been fortunate enough to taste, the 2019 is built for the long haul and will demand some cellaring to soften up its tannins. But, it will be exceptional once it is ready to drink. (Drink between 2032 - 2075)John Gilman | 95 JGRich and round, this red exudes black cherry, blackberry, wild rosemary and iron flavors. Reveals dense tannins on the finish, leaving a tight feel, yet this lingers. Drink now through 2029. 216 cases made, 20 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2020 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna Il Poggio is a total stunner. What a wine. Elegant and translucent, the 2020 impresses with a sublime, finessed personality that is impossible to miss. Fine tannins and lifted, sensual aromatics immediately announce a wine of utter class. On the palate, the 2020 is wonderfully deep and layered, with mind-blowing balance and exceptional pedigree. The 2020 is one of the very finest Il Poggios ever made. It has been nothing short of breathtaking on the two occasions I have tasted it so far. Don’t miss it!Vinous Media | 98 VMBalsamic aromas lead off, and this red stays on the savory side, revealing eucalyptus, juniper and wild herb notes. There’s a core of sweet fruit and an underlying mineral element as this builds to the excruciatingly long and complex aftertaste. Dense tannins and lively acidity endure its longevity. Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino. Best from 2028 through 2050. 833 cases made, 400 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSA restrained, reductive and transparent wine with aromas of roses, violets, rhubarb and chalky minerality. Supple and medium- to full-bodied on the palate, with elegant, velvety tannins and long, refreshing acidity that’s super juicy and tight in the finish. Tense and polished, with a touch of sternness in the aftertaste. Drinkable now, but best from 2026.James Suckling | 97 JSThe nose gusts with intensely savory aromas of wild oregano, burnt sage, pepper, cumin and dried cranberries. Bing cherries and wild strawberries headline a palate that sweetens, but stays tart and tangy overall, before the herbs and earth return on the finish. Sleek tannins add a sophisticated feel. Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEChianti Classico’s first single-vineyard bottling, Il Poggio, has been produced since 1962. It remains an unwavering icon of the region and a tribute to the foresight of Fabrizio Bianchi. The 2020 emerges slowly with struck stone, plum blossom and white pepper aromas. Taut and linear, the palate takes the relay with wild forest strawberry and succulent blood orange. Stony and energised through the core, angular tannins still need to reconcile although this doesn’t suggest the profound ageing potential of the longest-lived vintages.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe Castello di Monsanto 2020 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigneto Il Poggio shows dark fruit and baked plum with a hint of barbecue spice or campfire ash. That barbecued or savory side runs strong in this vintage and is the result of a warm growing season coupled with the beginning of tertiary complexity (albeit slightly premature). I also get a hint of sweetness to close that makes a good contrast against that savory element. This wine is 95% Sangiovese and 5% Canaiolo and Colorino from the 5.2-hectare Il Poggio vineyard at 310 meters above sea level on Pietraforte soils (a hard compact sandstone that is characteristic of this area, especially at the higher elevations). It tends to impart deep color and structure to the wines from smaller, thick-skinned berries. This is a release of 18,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

Bright and lively on the palate, such beautifully expressed raspberry and red cherry fruit flavours alongside high-shining acidity that is so clean and precise. A supremely joyful expression with hints of caramelised strawberries and fresh mint. So sharp but so well defined with a clarity to the palate that is gorgeous. Really delivers a sophisticated, charming, characterful wine that is balanced, easy to enjoy with plenty of life. A more structured and perhaps harder to understand wine than Testamatta this year, but both have their own lovely personalities. This is so complete and abundant, muscular but controlled and full of complexity and detail - there’s weight and density without heaviness. A sensational wine. Ageing 12 months in 500l French oak barrels.Decanter | 98 DECThe subtlety and perfumed nature of this wine is enchanting, offering flowers, orange peel and cherries. Wonderful ripe strawberries, too. Full-bodied, but not over the top, with tannins that are polished and run the length of the wine. It’s tight, but gives you every indication of a terrific wine. You want to drink it now, and you probably should do, because it’s so alluring. Yet it will age beautifully as well. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 98 JSThe Bibi Graetz 2020 Colore is a pure expression of Sangiovese all sourced from old vines that are carefully selected in various parts of Tuscany. Much of the fruit comes from a high elevation and cool site in Lamole, or from 70-year-old vines in Bagno a Ripoli or Vincigliata near Fiesole. A small percentage of old vines in Olmo is also used. Bibi has a preference for old vines, and you can taste the lovely depth and complexity that comes through in the Colore. Compared to his other wine Testamatta, this wine has seen fewer stylistic changes over the years, and the goal has always been elegance and finesse. Colore boasts a pretty luminous quality with dark fruit aromas and wild berry. There are hints of licorice and mint as well. Mineral flavors and bright acidity are what set Colore apart.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2020 Bibi Graetz Colore has beautiful, appetising aromas of savory wild herbs, wild-flowers and Mediterranean shrub with a light peppery note and on standing there is an aroma of strawberries warmed in the sun. The palate is round and soft, then mouth-wateringly fresh, then it finishes with savory, salty tannins. What I love is that the flavours are clearly delineated and remind me of Sangiovese and the Tuscan landscape with bitter cherry, light sea salt, iron tonic and wild herb notes. The flavors are quite fragile but persistent, the texture is fine and silky and there is a lot of savory, mineral tension in this wine.The Wine Independent | 96 TWIThe 2020 Colore is spiced and pure, with vibrant ripe cherry, cinnamon, and cedar. There is elegance and ripeness within its medium frame, revealing notes of wild raspberry, dried herbs, and orange zest. There is another level of refinement from the Testamatta that will continue to improve over the coming 15-20 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDThe 2020 Colore is pleasantly unexpected and is a total feminine beauty. When I anticipate power, it delivers grace with a stunning bouquet of freshly cut roses, blood orange, wild strawberries and sweet smoke. It’s deeply textural, yet not heavy, feeling like crushed velvet gently draped across the palate, leaving mineral-tinged blackberries and currants in its wake. This finishes on a note of elegance with fine-grained tannins without slowing its momentum as spice notes slowly fade. The Colore is all old-vine (70 years or older) Sangiovese from vineyards Lamole, Vincigliata, Olmo and Siena.Vinous Media | 94 VMCherries, strawberries, raspberries, seaweed and soy sauce mingle with the scent of freshly paved road, gun flint and pencil on the nose of this wine. It offers a very cherry palate, with wet stone, white pepper, rose petal and chocolate-covered orange slice. A bright and lively wine, it balances structure with playfulness, and delivers fruit that is mouthfilling without turning velvety.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEThis red reveals a mix of earth, cherry and wild herb flavors that ride a bright, fleshy profile. Features a juicy midpalate, with vibrant structure and well-integrated tannins. The finish firms up, where cherry and spice notes linger. Sangiovese. Best from 2024 through 2035. 200 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Very attractive nose with ripe blackcurrants, spiced chocolate, grilled thyme, hazelnuts and bacon. Notes of tobacco and cedar, too. Full-bodied, so refined and polished with layers of finely chiselled tannins spread evenly across the wine and beautifully integrated. Blooming fruit with spicy herbs, peppermint and violets. Very long and persistent with a steady, mineral sensation in the finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 98 JSWhile there are subtle secondary notes present, this remains largely primary and still quite fresh with mostly red berry fruit that is cut with nuances of earth, roasted cherry and stone hints. There is moderate austerity to the relatively precise and energetic medium-bodied flavors that are presently somewhat lean and while not hard, it’s clear that this is not yet ready for prime time drinking. Save for one recent bottle that was hard to the point of being unpleasant, I have had consistent notes.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2020 Biserno is one of the best wines I can remember tasting here. Rich yet vibrant, the 2020 presents a much more restrained style than was once the norm. There is still plenty of intensity, but energy and vibrancy have replaced volume as signatures. Espresso, menthol, licorice, cloves and leather are some of the many notes that build in this powerful, elegant Maremma red. Gorgeous Franc aromatics open the finish effortlessly.Vinous Media | 96 VMSmells wild - herbal and gorgeously floral on the nose with ripe black, bramble fruit aromas. Round and supple, fully flavoured and textured with just fleshy tannins that also have a cool, mineral chalky edge giving some minerality to the palate and freshness offsetting the ripe, sweet black and blue fruit. I like the lingering powdery element and this has a certain sharp, sophistication - cool blue fruits, cola, vanilla, cedar and toast. I’d be hard pushed to put it in Tuscany though, it does smell and taste more like old-school Bordeaux or Californian wine. Massy, heavy, pushed with both oak and extraction. It has purity, but lacks the Tuscan charm that these wines can offer. Quality is there and this is enjoyable. 6% Petit Verdot completes the blend. Director Niccolo Marzichi Lenzi, winemaker Helena Lindberg.Decanter | 94 DECA powerful red, with a saline element underlining the black currant, blackberry, plum, leather, iron, herb and tobacco aromas and flavors. Reveals muscular tannins that shore up the finish, which has a lingering mix of fruit, herbs and spices. Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from 2026 through 2040. 25,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

Impressive aromas of fresh herbs from the Tuscan coast, such as sage, mint, rosemary and thyme. Blackcurrants, too. Full-bodied with fine, chewy tannins that show beautiful length and consistency. Racy and beautiful, with lots of subtle and refined character. Slightly more cabernet sauvignon this year, which adds class to the wine. 80% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot and 10% petit verdot. Give this about three or four years of bottle age. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2020 Saffredi is compelling. Deep yet quite structured, 2020 is unlike any Saffredi I can recall tasting because of its balance of intense dark fruit and vertical structure. Plum, blackberry, pencil shavings, lavender and spice saturate the palate. Readers will have to be patient, as the 2020 is not as showy as most vintages at the same stage.Vinous Media | 96+ VMThis was the newest vintage tasted as part of this retrospective at the estate. The Fattoria le Pupille 2020 Saffredi shows signs of the hot vintage, especially when tasted in context with the gorgeous 2019, the more candied 2018, the toasted 2017 and the classic 2016 vintages. The 2020 definitely shows a riper and fuller character with bold, big-picture terms and fewer tiny details as a result. Elisabetta Geppetti refers to this edition as a "return to the Taschis school," referring to the celebrated Tuscan consultant Giacomo Taschis, whose signature style embraced balanced ripeness. This wine offers end notes of savory tobacco and spice.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPSaffredi was first produced in 1987 and has rightfully forged its place in the pantheon of superTuscans. Elisabetta Geppetti’s son, Ettore now oversees the estate’s winemaking, and he told me that 2020 was ‘an Atlantic vintage’ with ‘left bank appeal’ – there’s not usually so much freshness evident in Saffredi. This could have something to do with the lower proportion of Merlot in the blend, down from the usual 20% to 10% since Merlot struggled in this vintage. Black fruit aromas are supplemented with violets and balsamic notes, while in the mouth plentiful tannins grip cassis and spiced plum. There’s a complexity of menthol, spice, chocolate and coffee, with a textured, woody mid-palate and a long, vibrant and youthful finish. Around 40,000 bottles produced.Decanter | 95 DECA rich, juicy nose presents handfuls of cherries and mulberries, along with slices of passion fruit, but a fresh savoriness keeps the sweetness in check. On the palate, dark chocolate brings depth, while tannins and acid attack in tandem. Bold and self-assured—a precise wine.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe 2020 Fattoria Le Pupille Saffredi has a much more directly fruity nose than the 2019, with leafy redcurrant and bramble aromas and a bit of spice. It is more fruit-focused and simple at the moment. Likewise on the palate the 2020 is much lighter, less concentrated than the 2019 but it is also not overly forced or extracted and it has a lovely weight and texture, great purity of fruit and very elegant and refined tannins. The 2020 has a slightly cooler, more green quality to the fruit but it is beautifully pure and transparent.The Wine Independent | 95 TWIWell-structured and linear, this red frames a core of black currant and black cherry fruit with accents of toasty oak, sweet spices, tobacco and iron. Refined and harmonious, with the stuffing to develop over the next decade. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from 2025 through 2035. 3,750 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

If there is a MGA which benefits from the volume of 2020 vintage it is Asili which is well known for its lean, pure elegance. Parma violet is wrapped up in watermelon fruit, leafy lightness and a floor of spices among smoky woodland, liquorice and roots. The lush fruit on the palate is sustained by crisp acidity and dense, silky tannins with a grippy finish due to its youth, soaked with a savoury blood orange aftertaste. A super-elegant Asili with volume. A great wine.Decanter Magazine | 98 DECThe Ceretto 2020 Barbaresco Asili (a certified organic wine) embraces purple fruit flavors with summer plum mostly and some blackcurrant. The wine opens to a dark garnet color with the benefit of that pretty transparency that comes with Nebbiolo. The Asili seems to carry a little more fruit weight and power in this warm vintage.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2020 Barbaresco Asili is quite simply textbook Asili. Fragrant and silky, with tremendous fruit purity and class to burn, the 2020 is so impressive. All the elements are so well balanced in a Barbaresco that impresses with its pedigree. A long, beautifully persistent finish rounds things out in style.Vinous Media | 95 VMExtremely spicy with rose stem, orange peel, and some cedar cuttings. Full-bodied, very chewy tannins. Almost leathery. Turns minerally and irony. This needs time to soften. Better after 2026.James Suckling | 95 JSAromas of black cherries and dried flowers flow along the top of the glass as notes of earth, truffle and incense swirl below. Elegant but firm tannins, with the first sip showing savory flavors of black tea and herbs macerating with wild red fruits that linger for what seems like ages. Drink 2025–2045.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WECherry, strawberry, juniper and wet earth aromas and flavors come to the fore, showing underlying mineral, tobacco and spice elements. There’s fine harmony, with ample structure for support in the way of refined tannins. Best from 2027 through 2042. 33 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

In the far southeast of Barolo, Giacosa’s 9ha monopoly shines in 2021. Made from vines with an average age of 35 years, Falletto flirts rather than flaunts. Red and black currants establish a backdrop from which iron, sage, bay leaf and liquorice root arise. Elegance, polish and precision are impeccably demonstrated, as is immense freshness, with racy acidity giving mouth cleansing vibrancy and energy. The tannins are fine-grained and silky, building up steadily in dignified strength around a core of pulverised stone. Pressed rose and lilac perfume the finish. 6,820 bottles and a few hundred magnums produced. The red label Riserva Vigne Le Rocche 2021 will be released in 2027.Decanter magazine | 98 DECThis is all about purity, with cherries, strawberries, spices, sandalwood, iodine, seashells and black truffles on the nose. Full-bodied but so balanced and focused, with layering and vertically that go on and on. The nebbiolo character is intense and gorgeous. Some pure fruit at the end, with notes of flint and gunpowder. Best after 2027, but it’s already a joy to taste.James Suckling | 98 JSA floral nose with violets and rose petals leading the way. This comes from two old vine sites in the Dundee Hills. It was not affected by the frost in 2022, winemaker Jim Maresh got to use his primary shoots, and that means the wine stays concentrated. Weber Vineyard is a quarter mile from Maresh Vineyard on Worden Hill Road. Gobs of fresh berries, savoury dried anise, and bramble fruits mark the palate.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPSupple in texture and loaded with finesse, this Barolo exudes flavors of raspberry, cherry, rose, iron, tar and spices, with a hint of licorice. The dense, fine-grained tannins emerge as this winds down on the long, languid aftertaste. Vibrant and complex. Best from 2029 through 2050. 600 cases made, 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSThe 2021 Barolo Falletto comes from the lower portion of the slope and was aged for 34 months in big barrels and then six months in bottle. In the glass, it pours a jeweled red hue with a bit more pigment than the Barbaresco and is spicy on the nose, with a compelling feel in its notes of spiced cherries, fresh herbs, smoky incense, and hints of fresh leather. The palate is medium-bodied, with lovely purity and clarity that was a consistent thread throughout all the wines at this tasting. It features ripe tannins with a noble yet elegant feel, as the fruit shines brightly and carries through to a long and even finish. As it opens, it showcases its more noble structure, along with the ability to age over the next two to three decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JD

This opens beautifully on the nose, with strawberries, cherries and some flint, terra cotta, peaches and orange peel. Medium- to full-bodied with ultra-fine tannins that are ready. The consistency and length are so beautiful. You can drink this now, but it will age for decades and always satisfy. Available in January 2025. Try on release, but it’s going to be much better in three or four years.James Suckling | 99 JSThe Bruno Giacosa 2021 Barbaresco Rabajà comes in a bottle with a white label. Bruna Giacosa explains that although she came close to making a Riserva (or red label) in 2017, Rabajà is usually presented in a white label. Rabajà has more backbone and a greater sense of richness and density. The Asili site is characterized by sandy soils, resulting in elegant and finessed wines. Even though Asili is right next door to Rabajà, the soil composition is completely different. Here, you get darker fruit tones with a very pretty mineral or salty signature. This is a beautiful vintage, one that excels in focus and clarity of fruit. I really love this expression of Rabajà, but you are best off giving it more bottle time to evolve.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RP

The 2021 Barolo Villero soars from the glass with intensely spiced, balsamic-tinged aromatics. Deceptively medium in body, with superb persistence and class, the 2021 is simply magnificent. Beams of tannin shape the unforgettable, persistent finish. This is another wine that demands patience. The Villero is not an easy wine, rather it is a Barolo that offers a more inward, at times intellectual, expression of Nebbiolo.Vinous Media | 98 VMSporting a more transparent ruby red color, the 2021 Barolo Villero is focused and lifted with enveloping aromas of medicinal herbs, fresh redcurrants, dried cranberries, and umami notes of porcini and anise. The palate is vibrant and pure, with fantastic energy and clarity, ripe tannins, refreshing acidity, and a great finish. This one steps things up a notch, and I would scramble to have a few of these in my cellar. Drink 2025-2050.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDCompared to the others, the Oddero 2021 Barolo Villero embraces a wider span of aromas that are more horizontal in approach, with dark fruit, licorice and spice. This wine expresses itself beautifully, especially as you give it more time in the glass. I am especially impressed by the quality of the tannins, which are firm, nervous and elegant. This release of 6,500 bottles sees a spontaneous fermentation with submerged cap and 60 days of slow maceration in oak casks. It matures in botte grande for 24 months.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPAromas of rose and iris mingle with dark exotic spice and a balsamic whiff of menthol on the fragrant 2021 Villero from Oddero. Full-bodied and elegantly structured, the palate delivers succulent black cherry, cranberry, star anise and toasted almond alongside close-grained tannins that grip the finish and leave a drying finish. Drink 2030–2041. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KO

This version ‘vintage’ of the Brunello family Bianchini is also elegant and very balanced. Olfaction with notes of cranberry, then geranium and shades of cedar thyme, with puffs of caper fruit. The taste has brackish tannins, medicinal and floral memories.Luca Gardini | 98+ LGAromas of violets, lavender, licorice, nutmeg and potpourri. Full-bodied with layers of fine tannins that are crunchy and silky, showing freshness and bright fruit at the end. Caressing texture. An excellent example of the vintage. Needs time to come together, but is very pretty and satisfying. Try after 2028.James Suckling | 96 JSThe bold 2021 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona opens with aromas of camphor, ripe dark-skinned fruit, dark spice and new leather. Full-bodied and rather rich, the palate delivers succulent Morello cherry, intense licorice, blood orange and fine tobacco blend accompanied by enveloping, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2029–2036 Abv: 15% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KO

Long oak wood refinement for the label-symbol of the house project. Dogwood, yellowcurrant and tangerine in olfaction, puffs of chamomile and dehydrated thyme, then juniper. To the juicy and savoury sip, with memories of flowers and red fruits.Luca Gardini | 98+ LGThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is an understated beauty, mixing dusty rose and lavender with shavings of blood orange and black cherries. It is surprisingly juicy yet elegant and refined, as ripe wild berry fruits slowly drench the palate in primary concentration. Structured and dramatically long, the 2021 finishes spicy and intense with nuances of citrus, clove and licorice. The complexity here is off the charts and the energy is incredible.Vinous Media | 95 VMA soft and crunchy wine with plenty of red cherry, light chocolate and orange peel aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied with creamy, open-grained tannins and a savory, juicy finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JS

Impeccable protocol between the countryside and the cellar for a fixed point of the typology, played on the freshness and juiciness of the drink. Olfaction that attacks with juniper and redcurrant, lashes of rhubarb and wild fennel. A sip that highlights dense, velvety tannins, puffs of undergrowth.Luca Gardini | 98 LGAromas of sandalwood, dried flowers, black cherries and lavender follow through to a medium body with firm and silky tannins and a firm and crunchy finish. Needs three or four years to soften and come together, but the quality of the fine tannins is very impressive. Best after 2028.James Suckling | 96 JSCrushed ashen stones and dusty sage combine with rose petals and dried black cherries as the 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Mulino evolves in the glass. It splashes across the palate with mineral-infused wild berry fruits over a wave of soft textures as violet inner florals and cooling lavender tones accumulate toward the close. The 2021 is giving yet refined, leaving a tart blackberry concentration framed by sweet tannins and crisp minerality as hints of licorice fade. This is a more forward vintage for Mulino but with an energy that I find truly seductive.Vinous Media | 95 VM

A sleek and graceful wine with aromas of Parma violets, licorice, red fruit and a touch of mint. Full-bodied, it shows elegant tannins with freshness and well-tamed power. Amazing length, with a polished cherry pit aftertaste. Drinkable now, but intended for aging. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 98 JSA layered and complex expression, the Pieve Santa Restituta 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille combines dark fruit and oak with a deep plummy core accented by delicate hints of exotic spice. A precise mineral line runs through the wine and leads to fine, powdery tannins. The overall profile remains tightly wound at this young stage and will benefit from time to settle into a more integrated and complete expression. Sugarille is known to make wines with a subtle sweet-edged richness and supple yet structured tannins, shaped by soils rich in galestro and white clay that lend both age-worthy structure and mineral complexity. Production totals 9,500 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille bursts from the glass with masses of thyme, incense, rosemary and cedar before giving way to dried strawberries. It presents a subtle inner sweetness and elegant texture, coming across as weighty yet refined, with polished red berry fruits swirling throughout and leaving a bitter licorice tinge to linger on the palate. A complex web of fine-grained tannins flexes on the palate as a tart wild berry saturation lingers incredibly long. The 2021 is youthfully dense and tightly wound today, with the balance for a long and glorious evolution.Vinous Media | 96+ VMThe 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino Sugarille was also resting in concrete when I tasted it in November of 2024. (The blend was completed in July.) It displays a darker red color and is deeper and more layered on the nose, with darker cherry fruit liqueur, sappy herbs, and fresh earth. It’s juicy and ripe at this early stage, with very nice balance, ripe tannins, a full, rounded feel, and a deeper mineral richness.Jeb Dunnuck | 95-97 JD

The Ghezzi family’s organic Brunello, perfected with a final concrete passage before being bottled. It opens to aromas on notes of cranberry, shades of rosemary and peony, citrus touches of clementine and nutmeg. Iodized sip, with spicy memory.Luca Gardini | 98 LGLavender, eucalyptus, underbrush and dark spice aromas form the nose on the lovely Camigliano 2021 straight Brunello. Taut and full-bodied, the elegantly structured palate features ripe red cherry, wild strawberry, licorice and orange zest accompanied by a backbone of velvety tannins. It’s nicely balanced, with fresh acidity. Drink 2028–2036. Abv: 14.5 % Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KOThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a bouquet of crushed strawberries and cherries, complicated by cedary spices and nuances of blood orange. It shows the weight and pliancy of its southern roots, with depths of mineral-inflected red berry fruits and mulling spices. The wine tapers off with medium length, gentle structure and a subtle cranberry tinge that pinches at the cheeks.Vinous Media | 93 VMThis has a savory character of cured meat, iron and wet stones, with spices and red berries in the background. The medium- to full-bodied palate is sleek and smoothly integrated, with well-defined yet supple tannins and a fleshy core of red fruit. Bright and juicy. From organically grown grapes. Better from 2027.James Suckling | 93 JSThe Camigliano 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is a certified organic wine that opens with ripe blackberry and blackcurrant followed by an oak-driven tarry and smoky note that adds weight to the bouquet. The aromatic profile is robust and persistent with a clear emphasis on dark fruit grown on the estate’s warmer southwestern exposures, and the palate closes with a hint of sweetness, soft tannins and a fundamentally velvety mouthfeel, making this an immediately approachable Brunello.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPIn Montalcino’s balmy western extreme, Camigliano was among those significantly hit by frost in 2021. The estate lost up to 90% in its lowest parcels, 30% in the rest. Ripeness and concentration are palpable in this hedonistic offering, yet it avoids jamminess as fruit purity is kept intact. Leather, vanilla and rust permeate the wild red berry core, while soft, plush tannins give luxurious layers that are stratified by sweet acidity. A generous and immediate Brunello with legs and stuffing for the next decade.Decanter Magazine | 91 DEC

Fragrant blue flower, fine tobacco blend, plum and eucalyptus are some of the beguiling aromas you’ll find on the compelling Franco Pacenti 2021 Brunello. The palate is equally captivating and utterly delicious, delivering spiced plum, succulent Marasca cherry, star anise and cake spice before closing on a spiced orange zest note. Tightly-knit, velvety tannins provide support while fresh acidity lends great energy. Drink 2031–2041. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOA restrained and elegantly spicy wine with aromas of Earl Grey tea, potpourri, red cherries, red currants and stony minerality. Graceful on the palate, with ripe, velvety tannins, crisp and juicy integrated acidity, a full body and a long, savory finish. Best from 2028.James Suckling | 96 JSClassic to the core, the 2021 Brunello di Montalcino mixes crushed black cherries and strawberries with dusty roses, violets and a cascade of autumnal spice to form its gorgeous bouquet. It displays textures of pure silk and polished red berry fruits, all perfectly supported by cooling acidity. A web of fine tannins frames the finish as hints of clove and tart woodland berries fade. The 2021 is remarkably pretty and refined and balanced for the cellar.Vinous Media | 95 VMSince taking over the winemaking helm in 2015, Lorenzo Pacenti has aimed to exalt the fresh character of the Canalicchio zone. He has lowered fermentation temperatures, adopted gentler extraction techniques, shortened macerations and reduced time in wood. The 2021 reveals itself slowly with inklings of tobacco, forest floor and mushroom, and savoury nuances repeat on the midweight palate. Though not large, tannins are quite boisterous and need to settle. Mellowed fruit is enlivened by a jolt of orange and a crisp acid bite.Decanter Magazine | 91 DEC

Andrea Cortonesi and his unique project in Castelnuovo dell’Abate, featuring refined and sensitive readings of Sangiovese. Very floral at the smell, with wild iris and gardenia, then red mulberry and cloves. Refined to the sip, with spicy nuances.Luca Gardini | 98 LGPouring a reflective red/garnet hue, the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino is floral and detailed on the nose, with preserved cranberries, cherries, anise, fresh roses, and polished leather. The palate is medium-bodied, structured, and bright, with chalky, angular tannins, refreshing acidity, and fabulous fruit purity that carries through a long finish. It’s exceptional and crisp, and it should easily hold up for 20 years. Drink 2026-2046.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDA spicy and classic Brunello with vibrant aromas of wild strawberries, raspberries, violets, smoky wood and licorice. Full-bodied, it shows balanced extraction, tamed velvety tannins, refreshing acidity and a super-savory, minerally finish. Juicy and long. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JSMinty herbs mix with shavings of pine, dried strawberries and dusty earth as the 2021 Brunello di Montalcino blossoms in the glass. It displays exceptional finesse and grace, with silken waves of ripe red and blue fruits elevated by fresh acidity. Inner rose tones and a tactile mineral crunch add form toward the close. The 2021 leaves a pleasantly chewy sensation and a tart blackberry twang, tapering off with excellent length and a totally classic feel.Vinous Media | 95 VMBold and beautiful, the Uccelliera 2021 opens with aromas of dark exotic spice, Mediterranean scrub, lavender and eucalyptus. On the full-bodied, enveloping palate, notes of vanilla, licorice and oak accent a black cherry core. It’s young but balanced, with firm, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2031–2041. Abv: 15% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOThe Uccelliera 2021 Brunello di Montalcino, produced in 34,733 bottles plus 900 magnums, shows a deep core of dark fruit and black cherry while remaining gracefully vertical and bright. Notes of spice, forest floor and sweet earth weave through the fruit, creating balance and a steady sense of richness that carries seamlessly across the palate. Grapes are harvested with the use of dry ice and fermented in stainless steel on indigenous yeasts, followed by 36 months of aging in oak vessels of varying sizes. All of this locks in aromas. The fruit comes from Castelnuovo dell’Abate at elevations ranging from 150 to 350 meters on mineral-rich, rocky soils, and this bottling once again underscores Andrea Cortonesi’s ability to translate terroir with precision and consistency.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThere are no single-vineyard bottlings at Uccelliera. Instead, owner Andrea Cortonesi brings together a diversity of plots from various altitudes, exposures, soils, vine age and clones for one complex sum. The 2021 divulges its balmy, southeastern origins with all the robustness and vigour one would expect, while managing to remain surprisingly poised. Nevertheless, this veers more to power than grace. A youthful wood imprint is absorbed by the fleshy, dark-toned fruit. Eucalypt, nutmeg and tarragon infuse. The bold and grainy tannins need more time to resolve.Decanter Magazine | 92 DEC

Location La Melina, compelling bio label that opens to aromas on raspberry sensations, then black olives, peony and hints of eucalyptus. Drink juiciness and tension, savory tannins. It closes with memories of small fruits and balsamic sensations, accompanied by iodized hints.Luca Gardini | 98+ LGShavings of cedar combine with dusty stone, licorice and earthy tones as the 2021 Brunello di Montalcino slowly evolves in the glass. It is juicy in style with vividly ripe red and blue fruits, while a tactile mineral tinge adds a pleasantly crunchy sensation toward the close. Spicy with a sharp citrus twang, hints of tart wild berry pinch at the cheeks as edgy tannins resonate.Vinous Media | 93 VMBright, spicy raspberries and cherries, together with bark and smoky tones. Medium-bodied, it’s very crunchy, with crisp acidity and chalky yet ripe tannins. Drinkable now, but best from 2028.James Suckling | 93 JS

The 2021 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is a dense, hulking wine. Powerful and dense to the core, the Montestefano is a big, broad-shouldered wine that is going to need a few years to be at its most expressive. Dark-toned fruit, new leather, spice, menthol are all amplified in this potent Barbaresco.Vinous Media | 97 VMYouthful on the nose, showing bright, lively aromas of red and dark fruits, leafy lightness, wild strawberries and black cherries with a whiff of blood oranges and earthy, chocolaty depth. The gorgeous full-bodied palate, structured and extracted, has firm, velvety tannins and tense acidity, leading to a balanced, endless, licorice finish. March 2026 release. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JS

You’ll find compelling aromas of rosemary, hay, camphor and crushed mint on the intensely fragrant and fabulous 2021 Muncagota. Full-bodied and loaded with energy, the savory palate features ripe red cherry, black raspberry, citrus and dark spice as well as the rosemary note from the nose. Firm, well-integrated tannins provide support and give the finish grip. Drink 2029–2036. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOBalsamic style jumps out of the glass, with herb, eucalyptus and potpourri aromas alongside watermelon and mint-filled chocolate. The graceful attack shows ripe, elegant tannins, larger-grained in the end, with long, refreshing acidity and a savory finish. March 2026 release. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2021 Barbaresco Riserva Muncagota is laced with strong floral and savory notes. Brisk acids and beams of supporting tannin give the 2021 its driving, tense personality. I expect those qualities will be positives for the future, but today the Muncagota is pretty forbidding. Give this time. This is one of the most tense editions of this wine I can remember tasting.Vinous Media | 95 VM

The 2021 Brunello Helicrhysum is stunning wine with energy, structure and finesse. Made with organically grown grapes, it opens with heady aromas of new leather, lavender, dark spice and dark-skinned fruit. Firmly structured and showing great intensity, the palate delivers succulent black cherry, crushed raspberry, licorice and dried mint alongside a backbone of fine-grained tannins. It’s still youthfully austere, with bright acidity. Drink 2023–2046. Abv: 14.5%Kerrin O’Keefe | 98 KOVery perfumed, with sandalwood, dried lavender, strawberries, ripe cherries and cedar on the nose. Medium-bodied with a solid core of fruit that is nicely framed by broad, integrated tannins that fold in beautifully. Fresh and crisp in the finish. Lovely tension. From organically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but better in 2027 and beyond.James Suckling | 97 JSSan Polino encourages spontaneous fermentations with native yeasts across the range. To further augment 2021’s vintage character, Helichrysum also sees a two-month period of lees stirring in barriques. For now, the wine is rather closed. Aromas suggest curry leaf, cardamom, dusty herb and iron. Full yet tight, the palate has yet to cede to graciousness – dense, sandy tannins firmly command. But while not easygoing or upfront, this introspective, textural Brunello simmers with immense personality. Needless to say, it will require further bottle age.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECSporting a saturated deep red hue, the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino Helichrysum offers a layered, spiced aromatic profile of pine needles, dried cherries, licorice, and plum. The palate is medium to full-bodied, supple, and ripe, with generous fruit richness, silky tannins, and balanced acidity that keeps it composed through the finish. It retains enough freshness to offer longevity over the coming decade. Drink 2026-2036.Jeb Dunnuck | 92 JD

Unmissable from Ilcinese production in a version that does justice to his fame: it starts with dogwood and red plum, then eucalyptus and shades of ginger. A brackish sip, reminiscent of undergrowth and spicy, ends on citric chimes.Luca Gardini | 99 LGA shade or two deeper red in the glass, the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino Vigna Poggio Cerrino leads with minty herbs, blood orange, cranberries, peppery spice, and anise. The palate is medium-bodied with a touch more flesh, yet it remains nervous and tightly wound, with well-defined tannins, a lightly gravelly texture, and a refreshing spine of acidity. It takes the edge over the other 2021s at this tasting and shows terrific promise with time in bottle. Drink 2026-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDSandalwood, violet, camphor and saddle leather are just some of the aromas you’ll find on the fragrant 2021 Brunello Vigna Poggio Cerrino. Showing intensity and a weightless finesse despite its powerful structure, the palate features succulent red cherry, orange zest, star anise and cedar notes before closing on crushed mint. A backbone of velvety tannins provides support. Drink through 2033. Abv: 15% Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KOThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Poggio Cerrino entices with minty freshness, as ground cloves and cedar shavings blend with mentholated blackberries and roses. It displays a more serious side of Tiezzi, with silken depths and ripe red and black fruits underscored by tactile mineral tones as fine tannins amass toward the close. Nearly crunchy through the long and potent finish, an herbal thrust and licorice tinge linger.Vinous Media | 93 VMFerrous and complex on the nose, with thyme, lavender, cola and a subtle, meaty note. The palate is medium- to full-bodied with chewy tannins that soften toward the finish, revealing red berries and dried-herb nuances. Better from 2028.James Suckling | 93 JS

New from Tiezzi, also from the Poggio Cerrino vineyard area, with slightly more calcareous soil, a raw material enhanced by the partial use of cement in winemaking: dogwood and red blackberry on the nose, shades of wisteria and cinchona, great gustatory freshness, with an iodized hue.Luca Gardini | 98 LGThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Tre Querci dazzles the senses with a vibrant burst of blackberries and cherries complemented by violet pastille and grounding nuances of dusty worn leather. It is seamless to the core with velvety textures and cooling acidity to balance, as ripe wild berry fruits swirl across the palate. This 2021 leaves a collection of fine tannins through the long and remarkably fresh finish as perfumed inner florals linger.Vinous Media | 93 VMA youthful ruby red color sets the tone for the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino Tre Querci, which opens with attractive aromatics of wet stones, fresh cherries, thyme, and toasted incense. The palate is medium-bodied and tangy, with sanguine orange zest, a bright spine of acidity, and chalky tannins that give it shape through the finish. It should take things up a notch with another six months in bottle and offer a lot of pleasure over the next decade or more. Drink 2026-2038.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDBlackberries and red berries with notes of thyme and dried herbs. The palate is incisive, showing a saline edge and firm, chewy tannins, complemented by a savory and cedary nuance on the finish. Better from 2027.James Suckling | 92 JSBold and high toned, the Tiezzi 2021 Brunello Tre Querci has aromas of violet, baked plum, spiced blueberry and dark exotic spice. On the concentrated, rather monolithic palate, the warmth of evident alcohol, vanilla and licorice accompany black cherry extract and raspberry jam. A backbone of tightly woven tannins provide enveloping support before leaving a firm, grippy finish. Drink 2028–2035. Abv: 15% Kerin O’Keefe | 92 KO

Castelnuovo dell’Abate area, vineyards up to 25 years old on clay and tuff, sandstone and galestro soil, for a classic of the type. Espigliato attack on the nose, linden and pomegranate, with a strong floral component, of rose hips. The palate shows iodized tannins, closed by fruity memory.Luca Gardini | 98 LGHands down the best wine I’ve had to date from San Giorgio, the 2021 Brunello Ugolforte opens to heady aromas of pine forest, new leather, ripe dark-skinned fruit and dark spice. Full-bodied and enveloping, the delicious palate features baked plum, cherry compote, star anise, cake spice and blood orange alongside velvety, enveloping tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it lifted and balanced. Drink 2031–2039. Abv: %Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe San Giorgio 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolforte (with 60,000 bottles produced), shows an intentionally accessible personality with dark concentration and sweet blackberry fruit designed for near- to medium-term enjoyment. Aged in large Slavonian oak casks with time in cement, the wine delivers texture and open-knit tannins that give it a cheerful and food-friendly profile. Made by the same team behind Poggio di Sotto, one of Montalcino’s benchmarks for cellar-worthy wines, this bottling favors immediacy without sacrificing balance. The fruit comes from 28 hectares of estate vineyards, reinforcing consistency across the range.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolforte tempts the senses with a whiff of freshly split pine, giving way to dusty roses, hints of worn leather and dried black cherries. Like pure silk on the palate, it possesses a seamless character and polished red berry fruits that soothe the senses. Sleek and expertly balanced, the 2021 leaves the senses stained in blackberry concentration, enhanced by a tactile mineral tinge. The Brunello of San Giorgio is improving with each passing vintage.Vinous Media | 94+ VMPouring a youthful red hue, the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino Ugolforte is expressive and forward, with aromas of raspberry liqueur, pressed flowers, rosemary, and pine. The palate is medium-bodied and ripe, with plush tannins, balanced acidity, and an even, seamless finish. Marked by elegance, it’s full but not heavy, with purity and structure that make it a very impressive Brunello to drink over the coming 12-15 years. Drink 2026-2041.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDA ripe version, this red exhibits blackberry, black currant and plum flavors, plus a touch of licorice. Wrapped in a dense matrix of tannins, leaving a tactile sensation on the lingering finish. Iron and eucalyptus notes also chime in. Best from 2030 through 2050. 7,000 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSAn excellent Brunello with notes of dried herbs, minerals, grapefruit and raw spices. Medium body with fine-grained tannins and a long, juicy finish. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 93 JS

The Giacomo Fenocchio 2021 Bussia mesmerizes with its aromas of violet, botanical herb, forest berry, menthol and cake spice. Full-bodied and firmly structured, the utterly delicious palate boasts a great depth of flavors including juicy red cherry, raspberry preserve, cinnamon stick, crushed mint and star anise before a graphite finish, all set against a backbone of fine-grained tannins. Showing serious aging potential, it has bright acidity that also keeps it well balanced. Drink 2033–2051. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOFrom one of Barolo’s most revered sites comes a wine of quiet confidence. The limestone rich soils of Bussia create something profound in 2021. Fresh roses and dark cherries float up, then wild strawberries, fresh tobacco, and mountain herbs fill every corner. The structure feels perfectly calibrated, firm yet graceful. This is Barolo finding its future while honoring its past. A wine that makes you lean in closer with each sip. Drink from 2027 Wine Enthusiast | 98 WEThe 2021 Barolo Bussia is an absolute delight. Aromatic, graceful and light on its feet, the 2021 is pure seduction. Pine, mint, cloves, new leather, licorice, wild cherry and sage are some of the many notes that are laced together in this exquisite, haunting Barolo from Claudio Fenocchio.Vinous Media | 94 VMCherry, plum, orange peel, tomato leaf and eucalyptus notes strike a nice balance with the succulent texture and fine-grained tannins in this lean, savory red. Iron and tar accents emerge as this winds down on the mouthwatering finish. Best from 2030 through 2050. 2,100 cases made, 300 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSMoving to the 2021 Barolo Bussia, it pours a bright transparent red color and offers a pure aromatic profile with notes of cherry candies, preserved orange, amaro-like sweet herbs, and dried earth. The palate is also vibrant and transparent, with a bit more savory iron-richness lurking gently underneath on the finish, framing the otherwise more transparent ripe berried fruit that coaxes through the palate. It has ripe tannins and a bit more richness of texture on the finish that I anticipate will improve over the coming 10-15 years. Drink 2026-2038.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDLocated in the heart of Bussia, the Giacomo Fenocchio estate counts 5ha in the Sottana subzone. As with all the MGA bottlings, fermentation is spontaneous with indigenous yeasts, maceration is upwards of 40 days, and ageing is in large Slavonian oak casks. The 2021 has a flamboyant side, leading with roasted coffee, iron, grilled bay leaf and crushed allspice aromas. As animated as the nose is, the palate needs a bit more time to come together, however it is well packed with dense dark cherry and perfumed fennel. The tannins are chalky yet sweet, with a taut snap. I love the saline twist on the finish.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECBlackberries with sweet spices, as well as plums and a touch of cedar. The palate is medium- to full-bodied with polished yet firm tannins that stick to the palate. Lovely, juicy fruit profile. This should evolve nicely, but needs some time. Better from 2026.James Suckling | 94 JS