98-99 Point Wines

wines

In the far southeast of Barolo, Giacosa’s 9ha monopoly shines in 2021. Made from vines with an average age of 35 years, Falletto flirts rather than flaunts. Red and black currants establish a backdrop from which iron, sage, bay leaf and liquorice root arise. Elegance, polish and precision are impeccably demonstrated, as is immense freshness, with racy acidity giving mouth cleansing vibrancy and energy. The tannins are fine-grained and silky, building up steadily in dignified strength around a core of pulverised stone. Pressed rose and lilac perfume the finish. 6,820 bottles and a few hundred magnums produced. The red label Riserva Vigne Le Rocche 2021 will be released in 2027.Decanter magazine | 98 DECThis is all about purity, with cherries, strawberries, spices, sandalwood, iodine, seashells and black truffles on the nose. Full-bodied but so balanced and focused, with layering and vertically that go on and on. The nebbiolo character is intense and gorgeous. Some pure fruit at the end, with notes of flint and gunpowder. Best after 2027, but it’s already a joy to taste.James Suckling | 98 JSA floral nose with violets and rose petals leading the way. This comes from two old vine sites in the Dundee Hills. It was not affected by the frost in 2022, winemaker Jim Maresh got to use his primary shoots, and that means the wine stays concentrated. Weber Vineyard is a quarter mile from Maresh Vineyard on Worden Hill Road. Gobs of fresh berries, savoury dried anise, and bramble fruits mark the palate.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPSupple in texture and loaded with finesse, this Barolo exudes flavors of raspberry, cherry, rose, iron, tar and spices, with a hint of licorice. The dense, fine-grained tannins emerge as this winds down on the long, languid aftertaste. Vibrant and complex. Best from 2029 through 2050. 600 cases made, 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSThe 2021 Barolo Falletto comes from the lower portion of the slope and was aged for 34 months in big barrels and then six months in bottle. In the glass, it pours a jeweled red hue with a bit more pigment than the Barbaresco and is spicy on the nose, with a compelling feel in its notes of spiced cherries, fresh herbs, smoky incense, and hints of fresh leather. The palate is medium-bodied, with lovely purity and clarity that was a consistent thread throughout all the wines at this tasting. It features ripe tannins with a noble yet elegant feel, as the fruit shines brightly and carries through to a long and even finish. As it opens, it showcases its more noble structure, along with the ability to age over the next two to three decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JD

This opens beautifully on the nose, with strawberries, cherries and some flint, terra cotta, peaches and orange peel. Medium- to full-bodied with ultra-fine tannins that are ready. The consistency and length are so beautiful. You can drink this now, but it will age for decades and always satisfy. Available in January 2025. Try on release, but it’s going to be much better in three or four years.James Suckling | 99 JSThe Bruno Giacosa 2021 Barbaresco Rabajà comes in a bottle with a white label. Bruna Giacosa explains that although she came close to making a Riserva (or red label) in 2017, Rabajà is usually presented in a white label. Rabajà has more backbone and a greater sense of richness and density. The Asili site is characterized by sandy soils, resulting in elegant and finessed wines. Even though Asili is right next door to Rabajà, the soil composition is completely different. Here, you get darker fruit tones with a very pretty mineral or salty signature. This is a beautiful vintage, one that excels in focus and clarity of fruit. I really love this expression of Rabajà, but you are best off giving it more bottle time to evolve.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RP

The 2021 Barolo Villero soars from the glass with intensely spiced, balsamic-tinged aromatics. Deceptively medium in body, with superb persistence and class, the 2021 is simply magnificent. Beams of tannin shape the unforgettable, persistent finish. This is another wine that demands patience. The Villero is not an easy wine, rather it is a Barolo that offers a more inward, at times intellectual, expression of Nebbiolo.Vinous Media | 98 VMSporting a more transparent ruby red color, the 2021 Barolo Villero is focused and lifted with enveloping aromas of medicinal herbs, fresh redcurrants, dried cranberries, and umami notes of porcini and anise. The palate is vibrant and pure, with fantastic energy and clarity, ripe tannins, refreshing acidity, and a great finish. This one steps things up a notch, and I would scramble to have a few of these in my cellar. Drink 2025-2050.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDCompared to the others, the Oddero 2021 Barolo Villero embraces a wider span of aromas that are more horizontal in approach, with dark fruit, licorice and spice. This wine expresses itself beautifully, especially as you give it more time in the glass. I am especially impressed by the quality of the tannins, which are firm, nervous and elegant. This release of 6,500 bottles sees a spontaneous fermentation with submerged cap and 60 days of slow maceration in oak casks. It matures in botte grande for 24 months.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPAromas of rose and iris mingle with dark exotic spice and a balsamic whiff of menthol on the fragrant 2021 Villero from Oddero. Full-bodied and elegantly structured, the palate delivers succulent black cherry, cranberry, star anise and toasted almond alongside close-grained tannins that grip the finish and leave a drying finish. Drink 2030–2041. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KO

The 2021 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is a dense, hulking wine. Powerful and dense to the core, the Montestefano is a big, broad-shouldered wine that is going to need a few years to be at its most expressive. Dark-toned fruit, new leather, spice, menthol are all amplified in this potent Barbaresco.Vinous Media | 97 VMYouthful on the nose, showing bright, lively aromas of red and dark fruits, leafy lightness, wild strawberries and black cherries with a whiff of blood oranges and earthy, chocolaty depth. The gorgeous full-bodied palate, structured and extracted, has firm, velvety tannins and tense acidity, leading to a balanced, endless, licorice finish. March 2026 release. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JS

You’ll find compelling aromas of rosemary, hay, camphor and crushed mint on the intensely fragrant and fabulous 2021 Muncagota. Full-bodied and loaded with energy, the savory palate features ripe red cherry, black raspberry, citrus and dark spice as well as the rosemary note from the nose. Firm, well-integrated tannins provide support and give the finish grip. Drink 2029–2036. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOBalsamic style jumps out of the glass, with herb, eucalyptus and potpourri aromas alongside watermelon and mint-filled chocolate. The graceful attack shows ripe, elegant tannins, larger-grained in the end, with long, refreshing acidity and a savory finish. March 2026 release. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2021 Barbaresco Riserva Muncagota is laced with strong floral and savory notes. Brisk acids and beams of supporting tannin give the 2021 its driving, tense personality. I expect those qualities will be positives for the future, but today the Muncagota is pretty forbidding. Give this time. This is one of the most tense editions of this wine I can remember tasting.Vinous Media | 95 VM