98-99 Point Wines

wines

A really refined, expressive and layered Clos Apalta with fine olives, incense, cigar box, cocoa powder, Spanish chocolate, pencil shavings, graphite and fine spices. Juicy, bright and full-bodied palate with a fine saline, savory twist. Very long and juicy. 64% carmenere, 19% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot and 2% petit verdot. Real finesse from 2020. Drink from 2024.James Suckling | 99 JSA great effort in the hot and dry 2020, COVID-19 vintage with the earliest harvest ever. The grand vin shows power, richness and tons of fruit but retains a sense of charisma and direction that is so compelling. Bright, forward, sleek and silky, tannins enrobe the palate creating a cushion for the ripe blackcurrants and blueberries, bright acidity and underlying spice to meld together. A large percentage of Carmenere at 64% gives the fragrance and backbone while 19% Cabernet Sauvignon adds texture and depth, 13% Merlot bringing freshness and acidity and 2% Petit Verdot adding spice, colour and richness. Only just beginning to really express itself with liquorice, eucalyptus, figs, plums and a salty-wet stone minerality that comes in on the finish. Despite the intensity, this is layered and well sculpted with tons of pleasure to be had with a few more years ageing. Ageing 27 months in 225L French oak barrels, 85% new, 15% two years old. 3.7pH. Winemaker and viticulturist Andrea Leon kept more leaf coverage, a thicker and higher trellis and natural cover crops during the vintage to moderate the high temperatures. Bottles for this, and the second wine, are now made in Chile as of this vintage and have reduced in weight by 10% in a bid to increase sustainability. Clos Apalta now also featuring its name embossed in the glass at the bottom of the bottle.Decanter | 97 DECThe 2020 Blend Clos Apalta is 64% Carménère, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot from Apalta, Colchagua. It was aged for 27 months in 85% new barrels. Rich purple in hue. The clearly defined, ripe, complex nose has a leafy character underlined by fruit such as prune and blueberry jam along with hints of pepper, tobacco and rosemary, all packaged in a cedar cigar box. Creamy and broad in the mouth with good volume. The firm flow is channeled by appreciable structure in which polished tannins set the tone for an expansive, indulgent profile. A genuine Michel Rolland interpretation of a year with a rapid ripening season.Vinous Media | 96 VMThe grand vin 2020 Clos Apalta was produced with a blend of 64% Carmenere, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot from a ripe and warm year. It’s ripe, concentrated, dense and powerful, reflecting the house style and the conditions of the year, with more influence from the élevage than in the second wine, Le Petit Clos. It fermented with indigenous yeasts for five to six weeks, with manual punch-down of the cap in 7,500-liter French oak vats, followed by malolactic in new French oak barrels. The élevage was 27 months in 85% new barrels and 15% second use barrels. It has a creamy, smoky and spicy personality, with notes of sweet spices, such as cinnamon and vanilla and ripe blackberries, and it is quite forward, ripe and showy, with generous oak and 15% alcohol. It’s lush with abundant, fine-grained tannins and a persistent finish. Give it a little more time in bottle, and enjoy with powerful food. 116,700 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RP

Very attractive nose with ripe blackcurrants, spiced chocolate, grilled thyme, hazelnuts and bacon. Notes of tobacco and cedar, too. Full-bodied, so refined and polished with layers of finely chiselled tannins spread evenly across the wine and beautifully integrated. Blooming fruit with spicy herbs, peppermint and violets. Very long and persistent with a steady, mineral sensation in the finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 98 JSWhile there are subtle secondary notes present, this remains largely primary and still quite fresh with mostly red berry fruit that is cut with nuances of earth, roasted cherry and stone hints. There is moderate austerity to the relatively precise and energetic medium-bodied flavors that are presently somewhat lean and while not hard, it’s clear that this is not yet ready for prime time drinking. Save for one recent bottle that was hard to the point of being unpleasant, I have had consistent notes.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2020 Biserno is one of the best wines I can remember tasting here. Rich yet vibrant, the 2020 presents a much more restrained style than was once the norm. There is still plenty of intensity, but energy and vibrancy have replaced volume as signatures. Espresso, menthol, licorice, cloves and leather are some of the many notes that build in this powerful, elegant Maremma red. Gorgeous Franc aromatics open the finish effortlessly.Vinous Media | 96 VMSmells wild - herbal and gorgeously floral on the nose with ripe black, bramble fruit aromas. Round and supple, fully flavoured and textured with just fleshy tannins that also have a cool, mineral chalky edge giving some minerality to the palate and freshness offsetting the ripe, sweet black and blue fruit. I like the lingering powdery element and this has a certain sharp, sophistication - cool blue fruits, cola, vanilla, cedar and toast. I’d be hard pushed to put it in Tuscany though, it does smell and taste more like old-school Bordeaux or Californian wine. Massy, heavy, pushed with both oak and extraction. It has purity, but lacks the Tuscan charm that these wines can offer. Quality is there and this is enjoyable. 6% Petit Verdot completes the blend. Director Niccolo Marzichi Lenzi, winemaker Helena Lindberg.Decanter | 94 DECA powerful red, with a saline element underlining the black currant, blackberry, plum, leather, iron, herb and tobacco aromas and flavors. Reveals muscular tannins that shore up the finish, which has a lingering mix of fruit, herbs and spices. Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from 2026 through 2040. 25,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The EABA is more Syrah-dominated and checks in as 65% Syrah, 22% Mourvèdre, 10% Grenache, and the rest Viognier that saw plenty of stems and close to two years in 50% new French oak. Its inky purple hue is followed by a sensational bouquet of bloody blue fruits, black raspberries, iron, ground pepper, baking spices, and who knows what else. Incredibly complex and nuanced (yet intense) aromatically, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a deep, layered, concentrated mouthfeel, and a finish that won’t quit. It’s certainly one of the biggest, richest wines in the lineup, yet like all of Jim’s wines, it remains light on its feet, has brilliant purity of fruit, and is as drinkable as could be.Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JDThe 2020 EABA ("end all be all"), still in barrel, is a blend of 65% Syrah, 22% Mourvèdre, 10% Grenache and 3% Viognier. Made using 70% whole clusters, it comes from several vineyards in Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo counties, including Bien Nacido, White Hawk, Larner, Slide Hill and Alta Mesa. It will mature for around 22 months in 50% new and 50% used French barriques. Opaque ruby-purple in color, the 2020 EABA has gorgeous scents of blackberry and blueberry jam, dried herbs, lavender, coffee, licorice and loamy earth. The full-bodied palate is powerful yet light on its feet, its youthfully concentrated fruits unfolding as the wine glides through the mouth. It has abundant, finely grained tannins, integrated acidity and loads of spicy and floral accents across the long finish. Tasted May 25, 2022, it will be bottled in mid-August 2022. Around 750 cases and a few magnums will be made. It will be packaged and sold as a three-bottle set ($330), and each magnum will be sold in a box set with the 2020 Andremily Grenache.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96-98 RPThe 2020 EABA is a dense, super-ripe wine that very much shows all the radiant intensity of the year. Super-ripe black cherry, plum, chocolate, new oak and lavender are dialed up to the maximum. This is a classic Andremily wine built on textural opulence and intensity. The 2020 has developed beautifully since I tased it from barrel.Vinous Media | 94 VM

Coming from higher density plantings just beside the estate, the 2020 Syrah Armada Vineyard is one of the standouts in the vintage and has a beautiful core of fruit as well as mid-palate density. Ripe black cherries, blackberries, ground pepper, iodine, rose petals, and crushed stone define the aromatics, and it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a broad, layered mouthfeel, gorgeous tannins, and a great, great finish. This unquestionably competes with the top wines in the vintage. Give bottles 2-4 years in the cellar and enjoy through 2040.Jeb Dunnuuck | 98 JDPerhaps the most put-together and complete wine of the range this year, the 2020 Syrah Armada Vineyard has classic notes of potpourri, savory herbs, black olive, hints of green and black peppercorns and dusty cherry blossoms that sway with a delightful mineral essence. Medium to full-bodied, the wine is balanced on the palate, with a fine mineral tension, precision, focus and a lingering, food-friendly, savory finish with a tight tannic edge. The wine rested for 21 months in about 20% new French oak. 7,656 bottle produced. Bravo!Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2020 Syrah Armada Vineyard is darkly floral. Dusty violet and lavender tones give way to musky black currants and blood orange aromas. Soft and enveloping, this possesses racy acidity that enlivens its tart wild berry fruits, taking on an almost-crunchy sensation toward the close, as nuances of sour citrus add contrast. This finishes with incredible energy and length, leaving a subtle balsamic twang yet remaining remarkably fresh. Impressive, to say the least, the 2020 Armada will win many hearts. This is about 80% whole-cluster fermentation and 10% new oak. This really sneaks up on the taster, and the nose prepares you for a bruiser, but the palate melts your heart.Vinous Media | 96 VMBlackcurrants, black cherries, cloves, tobacco, charcoal and smoked meat on the nose. It’s full-bodied with fine-grained yet firm, broad and mouth-coating tannins. Dark and inky. Tight and tense at the end. From biodynamically grown grapes. Try in 2025.James Suckling | 95 JSThe Armada sails on an ocean of blackcap raspberry and smoked brisket flavors, withadditional support provided by Earl Grey tea, shortbread and spearmint. Aromatic tradewinds are filled with black cherries and lavender. Soft acidity and velvety tannins make for a smooth voyage. Wine Enthusiast | 95 WE

The 2020 Côte Rôtie La Turque reminds me of the 2018 with its pure, seamless, full-bodied, and elegant profile. Blueberries, smoked meat, scorched earth, graphite, and black cherry notes all show on the nose, and it’s full-bodied, has a concentrated, powerful mouthfeel, fine tannins, and a seriously good finish.Jeb Dunnuck | 97-99 JDThis feels like a classic, with the weight and tannins necessary to help this age, but it’s not as massive as some recent vintages. Star anise, cinnamon and nutmeg - very much about the spice this year - this is bold and sweetly fruited, with juicy, pliable tannins and a long finish. Vines are on the Côte Brune, planted by Marcel Guigal in 1980 (first vintage 1985) after being abandoned since 1935. La Turque is a central part of Côte Brune, less than 1ha. This is only at the beginning of its 40 months in new French oak barriques.Decanter | 96 DECNotes of espresso and barrel char ride above notes of purple raspberries in the 2020 Cote Rotie La Turque. It’s full-bodied, with ample concentration and length, but it seems to lack a bit of depth compared to other recent vintages. Let’s see what next year brings.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94-96

The 2020 Ermitage Ex Voto Blanc brings another level of everything, and this is a quintessential, legendary Hermitage Blanc. Quince, ripe stone fruits, brioche, green almonds, and crushed stone notes all define the aromatics, and this beauty hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a deep, layered, multi-dimensional texture, incredible concentration, and a great, great finish. It’s one of those powerful, opulent whites that stays flawlessly balanced and weightless. Give bottles 4-6 years and enjoy over the following two decades or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JDThe 2020 Ermitage Blanc Ex-Voto cruises at the same high altitude as the 2022. Loaded with succulent citrus fruits, honeysuckle, white peach, vanilla, cedar and underlying reductive elements, the 2020 showcases spot-on balance, vivid intensity and classic Ex-Voto scope. It concludes with a saline aftertaste on the persistent finish.Vinous Media | 96 VMThis is looking very good, it’s very oaky for sure, but there’s good intensity and vibrancy. Long and with no excess alcohol, it’s nicely balanced beneath the oak, but it will always be dominated by it. 80% lieu-dit Les Murets (20-year-old and 60-year-old vines), 20% L’Ermite.Decanter | 96 DECPlenty of vanilla and a touch of coconut, but also deep Mirabelle plums and candied lemons. Very rich and powerful, the serious concentration enabling the wine to easily carry the oak. Then comes the vivid and stony finish that carries you away. Matured in 100% new oak for two years. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSAnother strong performance for this wine, the 2020 Ermitage Ex Voto Blanc features scents of toasted grain, grilled pineapple and ripe pear. It’s medium to full-bodied, nicely generous and expansive in the mouth, with an extraordinarily long and textured finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-96 RP