98-99 Point Wines

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Unusually, the 1990 vintage produced grapes with high sugars and high acidity, which has led to this legendary Cristal which is so ripe, rich, limpid, and dazzlingly delicious on the nose and palate. Nearly thirty years of bottle age have mellowed and condensed the flavour spectrum to a beautiful melange of citrus, candied fruit, almond, pear, truffle and gingerbread. There’s also a lovely creamy, soft, silky texture which belies the length, depth and reach of this classically elegant and vibrant champagne. Beautifully mature and ready now, but no hurry to drink up because of the vein of life-giving acidity which gently cradles it. Pure nectar. Drinking Window 2017 - 2030.Decanter | 99 DECThe Louis Roederer 1990 Cristal is awesome! A classic of power and finesse, richness and delicacy, it may be the greatest Cristal I have ever tasted!Robert Parker | 97 RPThe 1990 Cristal is remarkable. Polished, nuanced and light on its feet, the 1990 is all class. Citrus, orchard fruit and floral notes are wonderfully lifted throughout. A slight reductive note adds character on the finely knit finish. I can’t think of a better way to start this tasting. Simply put, the 1990 is a total rock star. Moreover, it is much more delicate than most wines from this ripe vintage. Amazingly, the 1990 tastes like it is still not ready! “Nineteen ninety was my second vintage here,” says Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon. “It was ideal. The fruit was just perfect. We blocked the malolactic fermentation completely and only fermented 6-7% of our lots in oak, as opposed to the more typical 20%, in order to preserve as much freshness as possible. The wine was made by my predecessor, Michel Pansu, but I was learning. This was the first year I started working with oxygen by reducing sulfites in vinification to pre-oxidize the Chardonnay musts, as I do know, which allows me to get rid of all the unstable, oxidative compounds. With Pinot, on the other hand, you need a little bit of sulfur at crush or you lose the brilliant fruit.Antonio Galloni | 97 AG(Louis Roederer Cristal Brut) I had not crossed paths with a bottle of the 1990 Cristal since all the way back in 2006, so I was absolutely delighted to see that Jean-Baptiste has selected this vintage to be included in our vertical at the maison in the spring of 2018. Having tasted this wine last in a large tasting of the 1990 vintage of Champagne in 2006, I was curious to see how the wine had evolved over the last dozen years and I was delighted to see that it had continued to blossom beautifully and that I had quite underrated it back in ’06. Today, the wine is into its apogee of peak maturity and is absolutely lovely, offering up a deep and complex nose of baked pears and peaches, a touch of white truffle, a beautiful blend of almond and walnut, limestone soil nuances, gentle smokiness and incipient notes in the upper register of the honey to come with further aging. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and utterly refined in profile, with a lovely core, still vibrant mousse, excellent complexity and grip, precise focus and a very long, poised and seamlessly balanced finish. When I last tasted this wine, the muscular nature of the 1990 vintage was quite evident in this wine, but the additional twelve years of bottle age has allowed the inherent elegance of Cristal to come to the fore and this wine is now quite classical in profile and an absolute joy to drink today. (Drink between 2018-2035).John Gilman | 95 JGYou won’t soon forget this vivid and expressive Champagne. It packs in compound layers of citrus, vanilla, pear and nutmeg that harmonize and linger on the finish. Bright acidity makes it extra refreshing and layered. It has really opened up since last year. Best from 2000 through 2010. 25,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 1996 Champagne Cuvée Louis Tarlant Brut Nature is crafted from clay subsoils and exhibits both concentrated fruit and high freshness. This is not an enothèque release – it’s the first time they are releasing this wine. Full and round, it’s incredible on the nose, with apricot, croissant, and fresh nuttiness; it’s so good. Full-bodied, yet focused and precise, the mousse disappears into the fabric of the wine, and it lasts long on the palate with hazelnut and subtle coffee notes. Drink 2025-2050.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDThis straw-colored Champagne shows hazelnuts, quince, tobacco, pastries and salted caramel. It’s deliciously saline, sleek and intense on the palate, with tangy acidity and an intense yeasty, savory character. Bone dry. 50% pinot noir and 50% chardonnay. Zero dosage. Disgorged June 2024. Drinking beautifully now, so why wait?James Suckling | 95 JSDisgorged in June 2024 after 27 years of aging sur lattes, the 1996 Cuvée Louis Tarlant is sourced entirely from the 1996 vintage and composed of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grown in the lieu-dit Les Crayons in Oeuilly, a site near the Marne River with just 20 centimeters of clay-degraded chalk topsoil. Vinified in used Burgundy barrels, the wine opens with aromas of honeysuckle, nutmeg and dried fruit mingling with lemon zest and oyster juice. Medium- to full-bodied, it is taut, incisive and rather lean in structure—this is more about sapid nuances than roundness—culminating in a long, saline finish. It speaks eloquently of the vintage, shaped by a long, cool growing season and a late harvest, while the absence of malolactic fermentation further amplifies its high-acid profile.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

This is a fabulous edition of Clos du Mesnil. The pure chardonnay is magnificent with density and agility at the same time. Apple and mineral notes with cream and biscuit character. Citrus and hints of mirabelle. Chalky, yet stony at the same time. Layered, yet linear and really long. But remains subtle. The acidity is so precise and focuses the flavors and nature. Lasts for minutes. Even better than the 2004. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 99 JSThis delicious, youthful wine opens with notes of ripe apple, hawthorn, and cream suffused with a bright minerality. The texture is hedonistically creamy and supple, yet there is backbone here as well and enough substance to last for decades. The Chardonnay for this superlative Blanc de Blancs was picked on 14-16 September before cask fermentation and ageing 12 years on the lees of the second fermentation. Disgorged with an extra-brut dosage in the summer of 2019.Decanter | 97 DEC(Krug “Clos du Mesnil” Blanc de Blancs Millésime (Reims)) In the summer of 2006, the Clos du Mesnil vineyard was picked between September 14th and 16th. The 2006 vintage of Clos du Mesnil was aged sur latte twelve years and was disgorged in the summer of 2019. The wine offers up a beautifully ripe and pure bouquet of pear, fresh apricot, hazelnut, chalky minerality, fresh-baked bread, delicate floral tones and a gently smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, focused and still fairly youthful, with a rock solid core, lovely soil signature, zesty acids, utterly refined mousse and a very long, complex and perfectly balanced finish. The 2006 Clos du Mesnil is certainly approachable today, but there are more layers of complexity to unfold here and it will be an even better drink a decade down the road. This is stunning juice. (Drink between 2021 - 2075)John Gilman | 97 JGSlated for release later this year, Krug's 2006 Blanc de Blancs Clos du Mesnil unwinds in the glass with aromas of buttered citrus fruit, crisp green pear, warm pastry, freshly baked bread, apricot and licorice. Full-bodied, layered and concentrated, the 2006's comparatively extroverted and gourmand bouquet is in contrast to its deep, chiseled and tightly wound palate, and it's here that the site really dominates the vintage signature. Long, sapid and penetrating, complemented by a pillowy pinpoint mousse, this is a brilliant Blanc de Blancs that has been well worth the wait. By the standards of young Clos du Mesnil, it's already quite approachable and can already be drunk with considerable satisfaction.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2006 Clos du Mesnil was harvested over three days, which is remarkable for a tiny parcel measuring 1.84 hectares divided into five blocks that are often picked over a wider timeframe. Soaring in the glass, the 2006 is stratospheric in its beauty. The richness of the year contrasts so beautifully with the flintiness and energy of Mesnil. With time in the glass the mousse softens, releasing layers of vinous intensity. Tangerine oil, pastry, lemon confit and marzipan all build effortlessly. The 2006 is sumptuous, racy and exotic to the core, with all of that richness supported by a phenolic, intense frame. This is Krug ID: 319030.Vinous Media | 97 VMA stunner, displaying all the lithe grace of a ballet dancer that belies the underlying powerful musculature. Sleek acidity creates a mouthwatering impression throughout, seamlessly knit with the fine, creamy texture. Expressive lime blossom and spice aromatics are layered with fruit flavors of poached apricot, dried cherry and a touch of passion fruit coulis. Long and minerally on the racy finish, echoing rich, savory notes of grilled nut and espresso. Disgorged summer 2019. Drink now through 2036. 1,381 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WS

The 2008 Dom Pérignon P2 is another sublime Champagne from Dom Pérignon. Long lees-aging on the cork softened the edges that the original 2008 release showed as a young Champagne. The two 2008s (original release and P2) paint two very different but equally compelling potraits of the vintage. The P2 possesses notable textural density and a level of mid-palate intensity that the 2008 does not offer. The P2 is not necessarily better than the original release, but it is quite contrasting in style. It may be that in a very high-quality vintage, extended time in bottle does not add as much as it does in slightly lesser years.Vinous Media | 98 VMA statuesque Champagne, with creamy viscosity to the mousse as it wraps around a frame of chiseled acidity. Crème de cassis, grilled macadamia nut, warm fig, tangerine peel, pastry cream and candied ginger notes are a rich and finely detailed weave of flavors that glides across the palate. A beauty, echoing fruit, spice and pastry elements, with an underlying streak of salinity on the long, long finish. Drink now through 2048.Wine Spectator | 98 WSThe extra seven years of ageing on lees under cork versus the original Dom Pérignon 2008 release has wrapped up all the year’s innate tension and brightness in an unabashedly decadent, enveloping richnnes of toasted nuts, fresh dough and gentle oyster cream, although the precision and integrity of the vintage is absolutely present, too. There are beautiful aromas of pure red strawberry and bergamot with some darker mocha notes emerging, both Chardonnay linearity and a surprisingly fragrant Pinot finding a perfect equilibrium. The palate carries the buzzing acidity of 2008 on a time-softened, ultra-silky mousse, with new details of umami savour tucked in subtly to the overall impression of glacial freshness. Perhaps unsurprisingly given the reputation of the original release, this is among the most memorable and energetic of the Plénitude releases made since the programme of late releases took the name in 2014.Decanter Magazine | 98 DECA wine I’m inclined to call “long-range,” the 2008 Dom Pérignon Plénitude 2—an equal blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, disgorged in March 2024 with a dosage of five grams per liter—has fulfilled its considerable promise. Born of a cool, slow-ripening season that endowed the wine with its incisive acid spine and raciness, perfected through the selection of origins that contribute the texture and plenitude only real maturity can impart, it wafts from the glass with aromas of orange, nashi pear, honeysuckle and toasted hazelnut, mingling with brioche and a touch of smoky reduction. On the palate, it is full-bodied, multifaceted and vividly bright, with a layered, concentrated core of fruit, its ripe yet racy acids and pinpoint mousse carrying it to a long, searingly chalky finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RP

The 2013 Vintage is a wild, exotic beauty. Apricot, passion fruit, lemon confit, marzipan, baked apple tart and a kiss of French are all amplified in a dramatic, vivid Champagne that captures all the pedigree of this great vintage. The 2023 is wonderfully complex and dynamic from the very first taste. Time in the glass brings out layers of dimension and captivating nuance. This is a fabulous effort. Krug ID: 124011Vinous Media | 99 VMOriginating from an October harvest, Krug’s 2013 Brut has turned out very well, delivering—against the backdrop of the slow, late-ripening season and another high-acid test, qualities rendered all the more evident by the house’s methods—the requisite aromatic plenitude and textural properties. Disgorged in early 2024 with a dosage of five grams per liter, the wine emerges from the glass with a deep bouquet of lemon oil, fresh apricot and quince mingled with nashi pear and brioche crust, complemented by a top note of lightly burnt buttered toast. On the palate, it is medium- to full-bodied, chiseled and racy-fresh, structured around a spine of incisive acidity and chalky extract, concluding with a long, citrus-driven, saline-tinged finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RP

The 2017 Dom Pérignon is just as stunning as it was last year, if not more so. What a wine! Lemon confit, marzipan, white flowers and chalk soar out of the glass. The 2017 is like a slightly more refined version of the 2002, another year in which the Chardonnays were quite opulent. In 2017, Chardonnay accounts for 61% of the blend, very high for Dom Pérignon. Over the last year, the 2017 has gained mid-palate creaminess and has just come together beautifully. Sadly, production is tiny, so much so that the 2017 is expected to be in the market for just a few months before the maison transitions to the 2018.Vinous Media | 98 VMDense and layered with dried apples and pears as well as candied lemons, grilled lemons and lemon meringue. It’s full-bodied, rich, tangy and flavorful. March 2026 release. Tiny production. Smallest ever for Dom Pérignon. A blend of 61% chardonnay and 39% pinot noir. Dosage 4.5 g/L. Drink now.James Suckling | 96 JSOf the two releases—the 2017 and the 2018—the 2017 Dom Pérignon is the deeper and more structurally endowed wine, unfurling from the glass with a complex bouquet of orange peel, dried apricot and burnt buttered toast, mingling with nuances of dried flowers, toasted hazelnut and cacao bean, all strongly singed with the house’s signature smoky reduction. On the palate, it is full-bodied and concentrated, with a rich core of fruit. Its darker, open-knit profile is animated by a pillowy mousse, vibrant acidity and attractively bitter, structuring phenolics that assert themselves on a long, resonant finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPA vivid Champagne, offering a finely detailed mousse, with a toasty overtone to the flavors of crushed white raspberry and white cherry fruit, grapefruit pith, toast point and oyster shell, all defined by chiseled, lemony acidity. A fine example from a challenging vintage. Drink now through 2037.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

30 Jul, 2019 – This is only in magnums and jeroboams and is stunning, with the sensibility of a red Burgundy, yet fresh and bright, due to the Chardonnay. Wild aromas of brioche, white pepper and rosemary. Maybe even some lavender. Full-bodied, yet always agile and vivid in the mouth. Stunning finish. Minerally and vivid. Only few bottles made. A blend of 1995, 1993, and 1990. Drink now. | 99 JSThis is a blend of wines from 1995, 1993 and 1990. That has given it a golden glow of toastiness, maturity and wisdom. Even now, there is some freshness and plenty of acidity to give the wine a lift. It is a great Champagne, produced in tiny quantities and only in magnum. Drink now. ROGER VOSS | 99 WEOne of my favorite renditions of this cuvée is the striking NV Brut Grand Siècle #17, a blend of the 1995, 1993 and 1990 vintages. Tasted from magnum, the wine offers up a complex bouquet of candied peel, pear and peach complemented by suggestions of wheat toast, iodine and beeswax. Full-bodied, textural and concentrated, the wine is deep and serious, built around racy acids and structuring dry extract—it exemplifies this cuvée’s elegant, seamless style. Readers lucky enough to find a bottle are in for a treat. | 96 RPThe NV Brut Grand Siècle Les Réserves Cuvée No. 17 (Magnum) is in a beautiful place where it offers a good deal of flavor complexity and yet remains light on its feet. An exotic mélange of orange confit, petrol, dried flowers, baked apple tart and hazelnut give the No. 17 striking aromatic nuance. Bright floral and citrus notes, along with a hint of reduction, add freshness. It’s a terrific choice for readers who enjoy Champagne with a good deal of mature nuances. The No. 17 is a blend of vintages 1995 (60%), 1993 (20%) and 1990 (20%). Disgorged May 27, 2019. | 95 VM