98-99 Point Wines

wines

The 2017 Gran Enemigo Gualtallary Single Vineyard didn’t show any heat or excess ripeness from a warm and dry year. On the contrary, it’s austere and has citrus acidity, with great freshness and minerality. The palate is super austere with vibrant acidity—by far the highest among the Gran Enemigo bottlings—and very fine, chalky tannins. This is remarkable, serious, balanced and fresh with a very, very long and salty finish. This fermented in barrels with 100% full clusters and indigenous yeasts and matured in centenary oak foudres for 15 months. 3,000 bottles were filled in July 2018.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPPretty aromas of plum, blueberry, rose hip, lavender, sandalwood and oyster shell. It’s medium-to full-bodied with silky, seamless tannins. So pure and elegant with gorgeous layers of cool blue fruit. Saline and coffee notes, too. Long and evolving. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2017 Cabernet Franc Gran Enemigo Single Vineyard Gualtallary has a 15% dash of Malbec from Gualtallary, Uco Valley and was 30% fermented in whole bunches before aging for 15 months in barrels and foudres. A rich, dense purple thanks to the altitude, the complex, ripe nose presents notes of sour cherry and blackcurrant along with country herbs, jalapeño and ash. Juicy and intense with a compact flow, the core resounds with freshness underneath finely grained tannins and an energy that keeps the wine going. The very definition of power and flavor in which the varietal has been shaped by the terroir.Vinous Media | 95 VM

One of the finest and more regular wines from Argentina, the 2018 Gran Enemigo Gualtallary Single Vineyard is austere and shows restraint, with great freshness and gobsmacking balance and complexity, but in the context of the 2019 and 2020 vintages that I also tasted next to it, it comes thorough as slightly less refined but still with 13.5% alcohol and with very good parameters of acidity and freshness. It has a medium-bodied palate and a rare combination of power and elegance, with very fine, chalky tannins. It’s very long and has a salty and tasty finish. It matured in centenary oak foudres for 15 months. 9,000 bottles were filled in July 2019.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPThe 2018 Cabernet Franc Gran Enemigo Single Vineyard Gualtallary also contains 15% Malbec, both from Gualtallary, Uco Valley, and spent 18 months in barrels. Purple in the glass. The vivid nose offers herbs, mint, red fruit, hints of plum and blackberry, lavender and touches of bell pepper and bay leaf rounded off by spicy aromas. In the mouth it’s broad with a layer of freshness and chalky tannins. Compact with a firm, juicy structure, it delivers good complexity and tension before the languorous, fruity finish.Vinous Media | 97 VMAromas of violets, almond blossoms, wild blackberries, blueberries, ash, tea leaves and nutmeg. It’s medium-bodied with vibrant acidity and finely knit tannins. Mineral, tea-like edge, supporting a fresh core of blue fruit. Refined and subtle, yet comforting. Try from 2023.James Suckling | 96 JSWell-structured, with nice elegance and tension, offering dusty floral and spice notes against a core of fleshy red plum and strawberry flavors that swell midpalate around fresh, mineral acidity. Shows notes of spiced chocolate on the finish. Drink now through 2032. 500 cases made, 300 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSAromas of red plum and dried herbs blend with small doses of vanilla. Made with grapes sourced from Gualtallary, it’s full bodied and energetic, with a herbaceous character demanding attention on the vibrant palate. Plum, blackberry and green bell pepper join oak spice. It finishes with notes of tobacco. Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

The white 2019 Certezas was produced with Sémillon from a plot of old vines from Finca Manoni in El Peral (Tupungato). Like the rest of the whites, it macerated with the skins for three days and then was pressed and fermented in 1,000-liter oak foudre, where the wine matured with gross lees for one year and then was transferred to used 500-liter barrels to mature for one more year. 2019 was cold and dry, and the grapes were healthy and ripened thoroughly to 13.7% alcohol while the wine retained very good freshness, acidity and balance. This is always the more Burgundian of the whites, with some yeasty and smoky aromas. It has a very balanced palate with pungent flavors and depth; it’s pure, complete, juicy and round, with very good structure. This is superb and has all the components and balance between them to age nicely in bottle. 1,500 bottles were filled in June 2021.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RP

The 2020 Cheval des Andes was harvested from the last of February for the first time ever. It was Gabillet’s second vintage at Cheval des Andes, and that year, he had to start without waiting for Pierre Olivier Clouet and Pierre Lurton from Cheval Blanc; when they arrived, they had finished picking the Malbec, which surprisingly was fresher in Las Compuertas (because of the higher percentage of clay?) than in Altamira (where the vines suffered more stress), saving the freshness. They now harvest using cold trucks (for the first time), and they also started earlier in the morning (six in the morning, impossible earlier in Mendoza...), which he reckons was very good for the precision of the wine. They used 40% 225-liter barrels, 40% 400-liter oak barrels and 20% 2,500-liter foudres, half of them new and with an élevage of 15 months on average, depending on the lots and varieties from 12 to 18 months. The final blend was 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot, which makes a comeback as it was not used since 2016. The key was to finish the fermentation of the Petit Verdot without skins, and that way, they have been able to use it in the blends of 2021, 2022 and 2023 in small but increasing percentages. This is slightly riper than 2019, with a little more alcohol (14.5%) and with very good structural tannins but saving the freshness, and it has the spicy side from the Petit Verdot (Gabillet talks about white pepper). The wine has the ultra sleek and polished texture and the elegance and the balance that is the signature here; the wine is very clean and precise. I see very good regularity across the three vintages I tasted next to each other—this 2020 and the 2018 and 2019. Overall, this is a triumph over the adverse conditions of the vintage. They produced their usual 100,000 bottles (since 2018), as they are renewing their vineyards and want to keep the volume stable. They produce this volume from the 36 productive hectares they have in Las Compuertas and Altamira.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPRipe, baked dark cherries with spices and some violets. Hints of graphite, cocoa powder, incense and black pepper. Dried rose petals. A slightly fuller Cheval des Andes with tense, silky tannins and a lingering, generous finish. Ripe, but still has lots of restraint and precision. 49% malbec, 49% cabernet sauvignon with a 2% petit verdot. 24% of the malbec comes from Altamira and all the rest of the fruit come from Las Compuertas. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2020 Cheval des Andes is a blend of 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 49% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot from Paraje Altamira in the Uco Valley and Las Compuertas in Luján de Cuyo. Aged in French oak barrels, it’s purple in the glass with a garnet sheen. The nose reveals a well-judged approach to the warmth of 2020, featuring ripe plum, redcurrant, mint and hints of white pepper over a bed of bay leaf and cedar. It’s dry and velvety on the palate, with rich, polished tannins that deliver a juicy, balanced mouthfeel. The balsamic notes and rich palate reflect the year’s character, while the finish is dynamic and long-lasting.Vinous Media | 96 VMThis almost half-half Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec with 2% Petit Verdot is rich and full in the mouth. Tannins are massy and filling, this has power and dominance with concentrated blackcurrant, plum and black cherry fruit. Highly spiced and sunkissed, this is intense and quite a force on the palate with liquorice, black pepper and tobacco tones and a flinty mineral aspect on the finish. The alcohol sticks out a touch, just lingering with heat at the end, but it has freshness and matches the altogether hefty frame and power from start to finish. Certainly a punchy and confident wine that’s out to shine. 3.83pH. Ageing 22 months, 40% in 225l Bordeaux barrels, 405 in 400l barrels, 20% in 2,500l foudres (50% new). Winemaker Gérald Gabillet.Decanter | 95 DEC

The finest vintage of this wine I’ve tasted, the 2021 Cheval Des Andes is based on 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 48% Malbec, and the balance Petit Verdot. It has a decidedly Bordeaux-like nose of ripe currants, leafy tobacco, cedarwood, and a kiss of flowers, with perfectly integrated background oak. Medium to full-bodied on the palate, it has a layered, seamless mouthfeel, ripe, polished tannins, and a great finish. It has this remarkable sense of purity and class, and while it’s incredible today (especially with a decant), I wouldn’t be surprised to see it evolve gracefully for two decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDComplex aromas of blueberries, pie crust, fresh flowers and currant bush with hints of baking spices like nutmeg. Medium- to full-bodied with extremely fine tannins that are integrated and gorgeous. Graceful and refined, with super length. Interestingly, 20% of the wine was aged in large oak casks (2,500 liters), mostly from Slovenia. Try after 2027 but a joy to taste now.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2021 Cheval des Andes is seductive and savory on the nose, leading with pure, earth-tinged aromas of pipe tobacco, turned soil, dried herbs and rich yet composed dark fruits. Exotic, dark spice notes and a pleasantly integrated framing of new oak accents appear with further aeration. The palate is deliciously supple and impressively layered, with a harmonious, long and ever-expanding finish that highlights extreme delicacy. The tannins are persistent yet composed, gently yet persistently lengthening the finish and melding nicely with the vibrant acidity underneath—a beautiful combination of savory charm, serious depth and focused intensity. It’s a blend of 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 48% Malbec and 3% Petite Verdot that spent an average of 12-13 months in 50% barrique, 30% demi-muid and 20% foudre.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPLight and elegant, the 2021 Cheval des Andes is 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 48% Malbec, 3% Petit Verdot. It achieves a feat that only cool years can provide: smooth texture, agile palate and just the right amount of freshness for a nuanced build. As it breathes, it begins to reveal notes of fresh cherry and plum, with a hint of menthol, maraschino cherries and a touch of pepper. It opens further with aromas of sandalwood and oak that complete the framework. This is a somewhat leaner, more ethereal Cheval than other years, but it has a higher level of precision. It’s a wine inspired by Bordeaux, executed in a Bordeaux style, with Mendoza terroir. A wine without edges, it’s a polished red in the early stages of a long, balanced life.Vinous Media | 97 VMComing from a cooler, wetter vintage, the 2021 Cheval des Andes is a blend of 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 48% Malbec, and 3% Petit Verdot. The nose is incredibly closed and slightly reduced to begin. After giving it considerable time and air, floral notes of violets and iris bulb begin to emerge, leading to a core of ripe, juicy blueberries, warm cassis, and red currant preserves, plus suggestions of tar and anise. The medium to full-bodied palate is very bright and pure, delivering vibrant blue and black fruit layers with floral nuances and a velvety texture, finishing with great freshness and on a lingering aniseed note. I love how this wine embraces the cooler vintage rather than fighting it, delivering a very elegant, fragrant style. This graceful beauty will need a good 3-5 years in bottle, then drink it over the next 20 years+.The Wine Independent | 97+ TWI