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98-99 Point Wines

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2015 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino Riserva, Italy Red

The 2015 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is magical. This is the first vintage that includes fruit from Arione, so the 2015 is 80% Francia and 20% Arione. That marks a return to Monfortino as a multi-vineyard wine, which it mostly was until 1978, when the first Monfortino from Francia was made. The combination of sites works so well. I remember tasting the 2015 as separate components and seeing what exactly the Arione piece adds, and that is aromatic explosiveness, texture and breadth. Rose petal, mint, sage, tobacco and cedar lend complexity. More than anything else, though, I am blown away by how utterly delicious the 2015 is. Of course, the 2015 will be better in time, but its pedigree is plainly evident today. Roberto Conterno gave the 2015 just five years in cask, the shortest time in wood for any Monfortino in recent memory, maybe ever. Like most producers around the world, Conterno is thinking deeply about what the optimal period of time in oak is. As for the 2015, it is a flat-out stunner in every way.Vinous Media | 99 VMMonfortino was not produced in 2016 nor was it made in 2017. The jury is out on whether will see it in 2018 (but I do know that Roberto Conterno is super excited about the 2019 vintage in Barolo, speaking generally). That means that we might not see his flagship wine for a number of years. The 2015 Barolo Riserva Monfortino gives us plenty to contemplate in the meantime. First, in terms of winemaking notes, this vintage see 22% Arione fruit in the blend, with the rest from Francia. Roberto Conterno is fond of telling me that "Francia is a Barolo you drink, and Monfortino is a wine you chew." (The exact word in Italian is "masticare.") I think his comment rings especially true in this vintage that arguably shows greater concentration and fruit weight and softer or more integrated tannins overall. There is structure but minus any hard edges or bite.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98+ RP

99
VM
As low as $1,439.00
2015 Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Italy Red

The Biondi-Santi 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is initially a reticent wine and one that does not immediately subscribe to the overstated abundance and exuberance of the vintage. Give it time. I wrote this review after several tastings over several days so I could ensure a more accurate account of the wine’s elegant reveal. Contemplative and exceedingly nuanced in personality, with wild berry, underbrush, ferrous earth and candied orange peel, this has everything to look forward to in terms of its future evolution in the bottle. It displays a pretty ruby color that borders on garnet and polished copper. A silky, mid-weight palate is accented by beautifully managed and silky tannins (this aspect of the mouthfeel is extraordinary), bright freshness and long-lasting fruit momentum. The alcohol is a bit more powerful in this release (at 14.5%), but the effect is supple and smooth nonetheless. I tasted bottle number 256.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98+ RPThe 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva pulls you close to the glass with a deep and seductive display of black raspberry preserves complemented by sweet sage, dried roses and pipe tobacco. With further coaxing, it gains in volume and lift, taking on hints of mint and camphor. This greets the palate with undeniable elegance, casting velvety waves of violet-tinged wild berries and sweet spices across a motivating core of juicy acidity, as a subtle coating of round tannins forms toward the close. While structured and incredibly long, energy remains high, as nuances of cherry pits offset by sour citrus and hints of cedar fade. It’s amazing to experience such energy and purity from a young Biondi Santi Riserva. As pretty as the Annata released last year was, I worried that the extended aging for the Riserva might rob the wine of some of its fruit; instead it is the complete opposite, as this contains the depth and complexity of the best wines of the vintage. I can’t wait to see how the 2015 matures over the next several decades.Vinous Media | 97 VMComplex yet pure, subtle and refined nose that gently evolves, with mossy red cherries, dried roses, chalk, tar and dried orange peel. There is a lift of clove and eucalyptus that makes it so distinctive. A powerful, medium-to full-bodied Brunello, but seamless and bright, with a fine, transparent mid-palate and restrained, mineral austerity. Understated complexity that will need time to bloom. Hold until 2026.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2015 Riserva was born during the brief period between Franco Biondi Santi’s death and subsequent acquisition by luxury company EPI in 2016. Looking to make more accessible wines, Franco’s son Jacopo started picking on 21 September. By the estate’s historic standards, this is relatively late. The outcome is a generous and weighty expression that is less bracing than usual. It coats the mouth without being heavy and is hemmed in by firm, steely tannins. Sweet tobacco and bay leaf punctuate ripe red cherry and lead to a pleasant bitter twist on the finish. Drinking Window 2024 - 2039.Decanter | 94 DEC

98+
RP
As low as $495.00
2015 Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Brunello

he Poggio di Sotto 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva shows extra muscle definition, power and heady layers of rich fruit. This is all in line with the personality of the vintage, which was sunny and warm with golden sunlight throughout the summer season. This wine stands out for its fine-gained texture, which is smooth and polished. This Riserva offers aromas of cherry and blackberry and shows the depth that you should expect of a classic Riserva bottling.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPThe 2015 Brunello Riserva is austere upon opening and requires air to fully express its potential this early. It is perfumed and translucent, with raspberry fruit, leather, black licorice, and rose petal. The palate is structured with drying tannins and mouthwatering acidity, noted by violets, dried herbs and crisp cherry fruit. The warmth of the 2015 vintage is present, though it remains refreshing, tension-driven, and persistent. The 2015 Riserva was aged in large Slavonian barrels for 52 months, and only 1300 bottles were produced. It is a wonderful and immensely pleasurable wine that will be a joy to revisit if the unlikely opportunity should ever arrive. 2021-2051Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDThe 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva has gained significantly in richness and volume since the last time I tasted it. Sage, black cherries and camphor give way to crushed stone, mineral tones and dusty rose. This soothes the palate with silky, delicate textures, as ripe mineral-tinged red berries and savory spices cascade across a core of brisk acidity. It’s a well-muscled dancer of a wine, tapering off incredibly long and graceful with hints of violet and rose over a coating of fine tannin. The 2015 currently shows the textbook ethereal weightlessness of a classic young Poggio di Sotto Brunello, but it will require some time to reveal all of its charms. That said, a slight score upgrade is in order here.Vinous Media | 96 VMThere’s a leafy underbrush element to this red, punctuating the cherry, strawberry and earth flavors. Compact for now, yet balanced, with a taut, reserved finish. Offers tension and suppleness, with plenty in reserve. Best from 2024 through 2047. 500 cases made, 40 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSExtremely perfumed with black-cherry, plum and red-cherry aromas that follow through to a full body with very fine, pretty tannins that follow through to a flavorful finish. Pretty balance and refinement. All about finesse. From organically grown grapes. Try after 2023.James Suckling | 95 JS(Poggio di Sotto, Riserva, Riserva, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, Red) Poggio di Sotto’s Riserva is a cask selection that typically corresponds with the estate’s oldest vines from its 20 hectares on the outskirts of Castelnuovo dell’Abate. Truly a bit muddled and wild at first, Poggio di Sotto’s Riserva eventually comes into handsome focus with fragrant pepper, strawberry and tea. The palate takes on forest berry nuances along with an appealing twist of bitter roots and citrus peel, which make it all the more appetising. The tannins are graceful and accessible but I would still give this a couple of years to sort itself out. (Drink between 2023-2033)Decanter | 93 DECDelicate aromas recalling new leather, camphor, wild berry and dark spice slowly take shape in the glass. Racy and ethereal, the light-bodied palate features tart sour cherry, pomegranate and tobacco supported by taut, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2022–2027.Wine Enthusiast | 91 WE

98
JD
As low as $419.00

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