Barolo

wines

A comparison of two 1961s from Giacomo Conterno is next. Conterno’s 1961 Barolo Riserva Speciale Monfortino is, not surprisingly, deeper and more intense in all of its dimensions. Iron, smoke, graphite, leather and sweet tobacco wrap around a core of dark fruit in a Barolo that packs a serious punch, especially considering its age. This is a superb bottle.Vinous Media | 95 VMThe 1961 Barolo Riserva Monfortino was especially beautiful and fresh. It offered a similar flavor profile as the 1958 with greater harmony and balance, if not quite as much sheer power.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

The 1998 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a monumental effort. A deep dark red, it opens with a huge nose of licorice, roses and cocoa, then flows onto the palate with masses of sweet, concentrated dark fruit that go on forever. Notes of mineral and leather gradually develop in the glass, adding further complexity as this great wine begins to reveal its expansive and profound personality. The 1998 is unusually open right now. As was the case with the 1997 at this stage, it should offer a brief drinking window over the next 6 months or so before shutting down for what is likely to be an extended period prior to awakening in the glorious prime of its life. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2023.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 1998 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a monumental effort. A deep dark red, it opens with a huge nose of licorice, roses and cocoa, then flows onto the palate with masses of sweet concentrated dark fruit that go on forever. Notes of mineral and leather gradually develop in the glass, adding further complexity as this great wine begins to reveal its expansive and profound personality. The 1998 is unusually open right now. As was the case with the 1997 at this stage, it should offer a brief drinking window over the next 6 months or so before shutting down for what is likely to be an extended period prior to awakening in the glorious prime of its life.Vinous Media | 97 VMDecadent and ripe, with wonderfully seductive aromas of white truffle, plum and leather. Full-bodied, with supersoft tannins and amazing fruit and Christmas cake character. All in finesse and beauty. All in place.Wine Spectator | 94 WS(Barolo “Monfortino” Riserva Speciale - Giacomo Conterno) The 1998 Monfortino is a superb bottle in the making, which comes as no surprise as any time the Conternos decide to put a Monfortino label on a new release, it is a guarantee of quality. The 1998 offers up a very deep and typically black fruity nose of black cherries, dark berries, licorice, camphor, road tar, woodsmoke and a fine base of soil. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and laser-like in its focus, with a rock solid core of fruit, firm, well-integrated tannins, and outstanding length and grip on the very youthful and tangy finish. This will need every bit of twelve or fifteen years of bottle age to begin to blossom, and should prove to be an especially long-lived vintage of Monfortino. (Drink between 2020-2075).John Gilman | 94 JG

A dark, virile wine, the 2011 Barolo Cerretta shows just how far Conterno has come with this site. The flavors are dark, bold and incisive throughout, with plenty of dark red cherry, plum, leather, smoke, tar, licorice and scorched earth overtones. Powerful and intense, with a real sense of vertical structure, Cerretta is going to need time to settle down. There is none of the early appeal of the vintage here, so readers will have to be patient. This is going to be a fascinating wine to follow as it ages over the coming decades.Vinous Media | 95+ VMSmells of ripe bilberry, blackberry and black currant, with an undertone of violet. Rich and round, this is balanced by lively acidity and refined tannins. Young, but already showing harmony and a long aftertaste of sweet fruit. Fine potential. Best from 2018 through 2035. 140 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSNew leather, blue flower, raspberry and Mediterranean herb aromas emerge on this full-bodied, concentrated wine. The structured palate doles out creamy raspberry, juicy black cherry marinated in spirits, cinnamon and pipe tobacco alongside velvety tannins. A licorice note wraps up the warm, lingering finish. It’s delicious and already surprisingly accessible. Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KONew leather, blue flower, raspberry and Mediterranean herb aromas emerge on this full-bodied, concentrated wine. The structured palate doles out creamy raspberry, juicy black cherry marinated in spirits, cinnamon and pipe tobacco alongside velvety tannins. A licorice note wraps up the warm, lingering finish. It’s delicious and already surprisingly accessible.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WE

Roberto Conterno opened the 2013 Barolo Cerretta as a comparison with the 2014. Powerful, dense and incredibly tannic, the 2013 is a potent, classically austere Barolo that will only soften with time. The only question is how much. Sage, licorice and rose petal overtones start to emerge with air, but readers should not be thinking of opening bottles any time in the near future.Vinous Media | 97 VMThe 2013 Barolo Cerretta shows that exuberant fruit that is so prominent in this vintage. Fruit was harvested two weeks later than average towards the end of October. This gave the Nebbiolo grape ample time to develop its aromatic nuance and intensity. The Cerretta vineyard is higher than average at 400 meters above sea level and that altitude has further helped to prolong the growing season (something the Nebbiolo grape loves). The site has more clay in the soils and vines are up to 20years old. There is a point of ripe cherry or sweet blackberry on the close. Behind the primary fruit is a pretty succession of tar, campfire smoke and tasted hazelnut aromas. This wine will be bottled in June.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPA dense style, this red features cherry, strawberry, floral, mineral and tar aromas and flavors. Firms up quickly, with the tightly wound Serralunga profile. Balanced on the tannic side, requiring time, but the potential lies in the long, minerally aftertaste. Best from 2022 through 2040. 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS