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The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is a spice box of a wine, opening with a burst of camphor and dried flowers, giving way to crushed blackberries, sage and cloves. This is surprisingly energetic and racy in style. Vibrant acidity propels depths of dark red fruits and inner floral as salty minerals saturate. The 2019 finishes structured and long yet still lively, leaving violet inner florals and hints of currant to taper off slowly. The combination of power, depth and energy makes this impossible to ignore.Vinous Media | 95 VMTo the northwest of the town of Montalcino, Pertimali’s 12 hectares extend over a single block, surrounding the Montosoli hill. Despite a relatively cool microclimate, the limestone-rich clay and estate’s old clones yield a vigorous, muscular Brunello. Picked at the beginning of October, the intensely savoury 2019 wafts with iron, sage and bay leaf. The ripe brawny palate is packed with dry, assertive tannins backed up by sweet black cherry and spiced currants. Acidity is brisk. A rustic rather than elegant offering. Ageing is in Slavonian oak casks of 30 hectolitres.Decanter | 90 DEC

The Mastrojanni 2019 Brunello di Montalcino has a pretty bouquet with dark fruit and something exotic that recalls camphor ash, wood fire ash, garrigue and dried herb. It is rich and evenly concentrated with fine chalk on the tannins and good phenolic ripeness (with no green bitterness). A great food pairing is grilled game or the French magret de canard. This straight village bottling does a great job, and it’s ultimately more accessible than many of its peers. Production is an ample 77,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPAromas of toasted nut, forest floor, new leather and blueberry tart take shape in the glass. Full-bodied and boasting a weightless concentration, the enveloping palate doles out fleshy black cherry, blood orange, licorice and hazelnut along with a hint of chocolate covered mint. Tightly-woven, close-grained tannins provide support. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KODeep red berry fruits, sweet spice, cinnamon and cloves introduce the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino. This is silky to the core, with depths of red fruit and spice, all guided by juicy acidity. Licorice and clove combine with tart raspberry as the 2019 finishes surprisingly fresh and only lightly structured.Vinous Media | 93 VMIn November 2022, Francesco Illy sold his stakes in the family’s coffee empire and bought out his siblings’ shares of Mastrojanni. Along with the latter, he also owns the nearby Podere Le Ripi. While the two estates are separately run, both are now farmed according to organic and biodynamic tenets. Pretty yet delicate in fragrances, the nose expands gradually with jasmine, tobacco and flinty stone. Midweight with a richness of red cherry and long, fine tannins. But this finishes rather briskly. Perhaps another year in bottle will coax out more expression.Decanter | 91 DEC

You’ll discover inviting aromas of ripe plum, cake spice, new leather and blue flower on the compelling 2019 Brunello from Molino di Sant’Antimo. Combing richness and finesse, the delicious palate features ripe Morello cherry, black raspberry, star anise and crushed mint set against a backbone of firm, refined tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it nicely balanced. What a fantastic wine. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KO

Showing intensity and elegance, the delicious Padelletti 2019 Brunello is a stunner, starting with enticing aromas of dog rose, violet, forest berry, dark spice, crushed mint and a whiff of flint. On the linear, precise palate, a backbone of firm but refined tannins and bright acidity support juicy red cherry, orange zest, licorice and tobacco. Lay this down for several more years and you’ll be rewarded with even more complexity. Drink 2028–2044. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOTo the northeast of Montalcino, tucked just beneath the town, Padelletti’s vineyards sit on limestone-rich calcareous clay. The Brunello is fermented in lined cement vats with indigenous yeast and aged in French and Slavonian oak casks. Emblematic of the 2019 vintage, this appears delicate at first then bursts into a floral frenzy of peony, freesia and red currant blossoms. Behind all that prettiness, the palate packs a sneaky punch. Compact, chalky tannins provide the architecture for ageing. Seamlessly knit, they could soften more. Beautiful clarity of raspberry and rose is amplified by radiant acidity, and the finish goes on and on. Exquisite Sangiovese buoyancy.Decanter | 96 DECThe Padelletti 2019 Brunello di Montalcino shows hints of dried herb and ripe fruit over a nicely concentrated mouthfeel. This wine shows a classic fruit profile with bold cherry followed by underbrush, rose and earth all delivered over a mid-weight palate with fine tannins. This bottle gives you a very representative view onto Brunello and Sangiovese.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a pretty blend of dusty rose, strawberries and flowery undergrowth, which is airy, floral and fresh. This washes across the palate like a wave of pure silk, vividly fruit-focused yet harmonious, with vibrant acidity and crisp red fruits that cascade beneath a sweet air of inner florals. The 2019 finishes staining and long with grippy tannins that tug at the cheeks yet never tire as licorice hints fade.Vinous Media | 93 VMFlourishing, lifted red and purple flowers, followed by red cherries, brambles and a hint of rosemary. Medium-bodied with fine tannins. Vibrant yet delicate and elegant, despite the young tannins. Hint of balsamic at the end. Try after 2026.James Suckling | 92 JS

The Podere Brizio 2019 Brunello is utterly delicious. Made with organically grown grapes, it opens with aromas of new leather, violet and forest berry while the smooth, elegant palate delivers ripe black cherry, spiced blue berry, cinnamon and licorice before a wintergreen finish. Tightly woven, velvety tannins provide enveloping support. It’s already almost accessible and will offer years of pleasure. Drink 2027–2034. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOBlack cherry, blackberry, plum, violet and mineral flavors are the hallmarks of this pure, dense and robust red, which is squarely in the fruity camp, yet bumps up against pointed tannins on the finish. The lasting impression is both fruit and tannins, so this should work itself out in a few years. Best from 2027 through 2043. 3,000 cases made, 1,600 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe organic Podere Brizio 2019 Brunello di Montalcino (in a heavy glass bottle) shows pretty aromas of crushed stone, dried raspberry, redcurrant, cherry cola and blue flower. The elegance and finer qualities of this wine are what stand out most, and you get pretty definition and sharpness along the way. The finish is lean, tonic, lifted and bright. Some 38,000 bottles were made. Great job.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPDark magenta/ruby, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino has a great nose, with concentrated power and purity in its aromas of cedar, fresh black raspberries, lavender, and baking spice. Full-bodied, although it remains linear with an even spine of acidity and refined tannins, it has great mouthwatering lift and a clean, long finish. It’s an impressive offering with a wide drinking window over the next 10-15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDCrunchy and blooming red wine, displaying vibrant black cherries, redcurrants and violets, together with fascinating, savory spice notes of cloves and licorice. Medium-bodied and round on the palate with mouthwatering acidity. Chewy yet fine-grained tannins. Lively and flavorful. From organically grown grapes. This will develop nicely with age. Hold until 2027.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a sweet burst of spice and dusty dried flowers. This is racy and sleek with cooling acidity and crisp wild berry fruits. It finishes with medium length while pleasantly chewy sensations and edgy tannins mingle with hints of licorice.Vinous Media | 90 VM

The 2019 Condrieu Chery is always a more steely, mineral-driven example of this appellation, but it packs a punch in 2019 and has powerful notes of buttered citrus, pineapple, honeysuckle, and a liquid rock-like minerality. These carry to a rich, full-bodied Condrieu with an opulent texture, moderate acidity, and a great finish. As with most 2019 Condrieu (and 2018s), it’s not going to be the longest lived, but who cares? Drink this brilliant wine over the coming 4-5 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDFrom 70-year-old vines, the 2016 Condrieu Chéry is a bit more concentrated than Niero’s Les Ravines bottling, but otherwise, it’s similar in its aromas of crushed stone and pineapple. Like the other wines at this estate, it’s aged 12 months in a mix of stainless steel (60%) and oak barrels (40%), giving it a rich, slightly oily texture. It’s harmonious and long, with pineapple and melon flavors giving way to gingery spice on the finish. (JCRobert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RP

Planted in 1996, La Lucére distinguishes itself from San Filippo’s other sites with its full eastern exposure and silty, sandstone soil. The 2019 harvest saw multiple passages from the end of September through to the first week of October. It takes its time to unravel, progressing from exotic and integrated oak spice and cedar forest to intense cherry and currants with hints of fennel, pressed flowers and dark chocolate. Glossy wood adds weight and breadth to a mouthful of stones and cherry pit. The tannins are smooth and tightly woven while fresh, steely acidity cuts vertically giving magnificent vibrancy. It lingers quite tenaciously, with juxtaposing bitter coffee and vanilla cherry.Decanter | 96 DECBlack cherry, cedar and dried flowers on the nose follow through to a medium to full body with chewy tannins and a savory finish. Lots of structure. Muscular and wholesome yet there’s a softness and beauty. Better after 2027.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino le Lucére is a darkly concentrated wine with black fruit and a very creamy side. There are aromas of coconut butter and vanilla that meet bakery aromas of croissant or pie crust. The oak renderings are significant, but I give it good cellar potential, as it fleshes out, especially because there is plenty of dark primary fruit to give it aging momentum.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPRich, round and juicy, this satiny and harmonious red sports cherry, plum, blackberry and chocolate flavors. Even the tannins are civilized and well-integrated, providing an overall charm. Expansive on the finish, with notes of mint, dusty mineral and spices. Best from 2026 through 2042. 800 cases made, 400 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

Intense aromas of black cherries, black truffle, orange peel and Indian spices. The palate is full yet reserved, with very fine tannins that fly linear and deep in the wine. Caressing texture. Reserved at the end. A real beauty. From organically grown grapes. Drink after 2027.James Suckling | 96 JSBalsamic aromas of camphor and pine forest mingle with truffle and plum cake on the fragrant 2019 Brunello fro San Polino. It’s also delicious, with flavors of raspberry tart, plum cake, cinnamon and nutmeg accompanied by taut, fine-grained tannins that lend seamless support. Fresh acidity keeps it well balanced. Drink 2027–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOFrom San Polino’s holdings in the northeast on loamy clay soil. Exuberantly youthful and becoming, the 2019 rings out with violet and oily balsamic herbs. It gives a midweight impression – yet is packed with brambly fruit. An orange peel flourish is heightened by zesty acidity. And as this opens, savoury iron depths are revealed. Promising but needs to come together. Solid, clayey tannins clamp down on the finish.Decanter | 93 DECThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino wafts up with a dusty blend of dried flowers and strawberries enhanced by lemon oil touches. This is racy and sleek with cooling acidity and vividly ripe wild berry fruits lifted by orange and cedary spice. Its acidity wins the day, maintaining amazing freshness despite the grippy tannins that resonate throughout. The 2019 finishes long and staining with a pretty air of inner violet flowers that linger. San Polino continues to raise the bar; this is lovely.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Redcurrants and wild strawberries followed by intense herbal and green notes of tomato leaves and thyme. Creamy and round-textured followed by firm and structured tannins. Excellent length of finish with a hint of citrus blossom in the aftertaste. Pure and crunchy. Better after 2029.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is a wine of medium-rich texture and lovely red and purple fruit aromas with elderberry and something much softer like Morello cherry. Those ripe and concentrated flavors give depth and volume to this wine, yet it also shows the heightened acidic freshness that Sangiovese delivers so well, and some chalky minimality. The tannins are yielding and not quite approachable, but they’re almost there. This wine sees 30 months in Slavonian oak, and 50,000 bottles will hit the market in January 2024.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is floral and perfumed with dusty rose, lavender tones and crushed blackberries. It’s silky in texture yet lifted in feel with violet-laced wild berry fruits and vibrant acidity, maintaining a lovely energy throughout. This tapers off with medium length and gently tannic, leaving a bitter licorice tinge that makes for a pleasant punctuation.Vinous Media | 93 VMAromas of dark-skinned fruit, baking spice, forest floor and tobacco shape the nose on the elegantly structured 2019 Brunello from Tenuta di Sesta. Full-bodied and refined, the smooth palate offers ripe Morello cherry, baked plum, licorice and a dollop of mocha alongside velvety tannins. Drink 2027–2034. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KO

A mentholated freshness introduces the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino, as a vibrant wave of crushed cherries, mint leaf, clove and dusty roses make up its absolutely gorgeous bouquet. This is silky and enveloping yet lifted and full of energy, with crunchy red berry fruits that leave a crackle of primary concentration toward the close. It finishes pretty saline and spicy in character, leaving edgy tannins to mingle with a residual bump of acidity that maintains a wonderfully fresh sensation as tart cranberry notes fade. This is one of the most exciting young renditions of Voliero I have ever tasted. It captivates with its precision and spry personality while holding depths of complexity in reserve. Wow.Vinous Media | 96 VMThe Voliero 2019 Brunello di Montalcino has ripe cherry fruit and blackberry, with soft and ripe layering throughout. This wine shows the rich and plump side of 2019, a vintage that offers more concentration than average. Dark fruit flavors cede to spice, earth and toasted chestnut husk. This wine shows solid, chalky tannins. Some 7,600 bottles (and larger formats) were made, and they’re almost ready straight out of the gate.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPAromas of dried fruits, figs and tobacco leaves with an underlying nutty note. Refreshing acidity. Medium to full-bodied. Savory yet succulent finish. Better after 2026.James Suckling | 93 JS

The fruit for Safrà is grown biodynamically at 600m on sandy soils in Finca Els Corrals, mainly from 20- to 40-year-old Mandó vines harvested before fully mature, with about 15% of Garnacha Tintorera in the blend. Produced by owner Pablo Calatayud and winemaker Javier Revert, the wine was vinified in stainless steel using indigenous yeasts, with one third of the fruit in whole bunches. This was followed by six months’ maturation in earthenware jars. Sarah Jane Evans MW: Earthy, winey aromas – a clear expression of the variety. Refreshing notes of dark plum and cherry, with light citrus. Long, intense finish. An original. Christine Allen: Redcurrant, fresh cherry and high-tone florals on the nose. Lingering spiced fruit and a floral finish. A stunning example of what Valencia can do. Beth Willard: Enticing chalky, creamy milk chocolate and raspberry aromas. Pretty floral character, with rose petal, sweet fruit and ripe tannins. Very fresh and drinkable.Decanter | 95 DECThey consider 2020 Safrà the more balanced vintage to date, with the help of the Arcos structure, which makes it longer and more complex. It’s 70% Mandó and 30% Arcos that fermented in stainless steel vats with 30% full clusters and indigenous yeasts and matured in 2,600-liter tinaja for six months. It has 13% alcohol and a pH of 3.45. It’s juicy, floral, tasty and fresh, with very fine tannins and a long, focused finish. The combination of Mandó and Arcos works quite well; the blend is serious, with structure keeping the brightness. All of these wines are incredible values. 20,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in July 2021.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RP

This is quite the Chardonnay from Brianne Day and the renowned Eola Springs Vineyard in the best Chardonnay appellation in America. Winemaker Brianne Day chose three different blocks and three different clones: Hyde Wente, Mount Eden and Chardonnay 96 (a Dijon clone). She picked the Hyde Wente and Mount Eden early for structure and acid, and the Dijon 96 was picked later to flesh out the palate with riper fruits. Captivating lemon curd aromas and rich, honeyed apricots are followed by almond pastry cream.—dollops of rich lemon cream, ripe peach fuzz, and rich apricot flesh.Decanter | 96 DECDistinctly savory, the 2021 Chardonnay Eola Springs Vineyard bursts from the glass with an array of crushed rocks and flint giving way to dried apricots and nectarine. This displays silky textures, seamless and lifted, with crisp orchard fruits and mineral tones cascading across the palate. It finishes with staining length yet is incredibly fresh, leaving a hint of candied citrus and a salty tinge. Nicely done.Vinous Media | 93 VMRich, creamy and full-bodied yet surprisingly elegant, this Oregon chardonnay glides over the palate, but also has the structure to age for some years. The tannins from the generous toasty oak build at the long, imposing finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSThe 2021 Eola Springs Vineyard bottling of chardonnay from Breeana Day is a lovely wine. It offers up a beautifully complex bouquet of pear, nectarine, a touch of almond, a lovely base of soil tones, gently musky floral tones and a discreet framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is vibrant, focused and full-bodied, with a beautiful core of ripe fruit, lovely soil undertow and grip, zesty acids and a long, poised, seamlessly-balanced and complex finish. This is really lovely juice, coming in at thirteen percent octane and offering a lovely synthesis of perfectly ripe fruit and structural tension on the backend. It should age beautifully. (Drink between 2024 - 2040)John Gilman | 93 JG

TOP QUALITY PRODUCER Quite a different, cool, fresh character on the nose. Louis Moreau always aim to pick early to preserve freshness. Lemon-lime citrus characters dominate the palate giving lots of vibrant acidity, balancing the concentrated fruit notes and providing a great backdrop for future ageing. Needs a two or three years to settle in bottle, and it’s a keeper.Decanter | 95 DECThis white’s creamy texture is offset by lively acidity that frames its lemon, yuzu, floral and vanilla flavors. Tense and racy, picking up mineral and herbal accents on the long finish. Drink now through 2032. 712 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

UNDER THE RADAR A very elegant Bougros which matches the ripeness of this full sun site with great acidity and purity of flavour. There is lots of depth here with some zesty citrus characters and a stony, mineral thread in the background. Cleansing acidity on the finish. A grand cru which definitely shows its class, while managing to be both drinkable now yet have a long future ahead.Decanter | 95 DEC

Dry-farmed Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc grapes are aged 20 months in mostly neutral French oak barrels. Unfined and unfiltered. A rather dark, meaty, and savoury expression from this iconic Rutherford Estate helmed by founder and proprietor John Williams. Opaque ruby in colour shows black olive, dusty earth, and graphite. Medium-bodied and intensely perfumed on the palate, wit builds in elegance, almost defying its rather muscular aromatic profile. Fresh, balanced, quite complex, and quite cellar-worthy.Decanter | 95 DECOne of the founding practitioners of organic and dry farming in Napa Valley, Frog’s Leap offers a classic approach to Cabernet Sauvignon. Along with flavors of black currant and blackberry, this wine offers lingering spices, lightly tactile tannins and mouthwatering acidity. The wine is both pleasing and perfect for a range of foods from savory mushrooms and risotto, to grass fed beef. Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEWell-rounded, fruit-driven and chalky. The nose expresses aromas of blackberries, sweet cherries and earth. It’s medium- to full-bodied with fine tannins. Mellow with a fruity and chewy finish. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 91 JSRipe red and black fruits, darker chocolate, and some smoky tobacco notes all emerge from the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Grown, a nicely balanced, elegant, impressive Cabernet Sauvignon from this team that has ripe tannins and outstanding length.Jeb Dunnuck | 90 JD

This is displaying aromas of anise, dried lemons, white grapefruit, gun flint and even smoked meat, with dried mangoes and some green tea, too. Sophisticated rather than generous, with tight and firm layers. Full body. Mineral and tight finish.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2021 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is one of the more powerful wines in the range, mingling aromas of sweet orchard fruit and confit citrus with hints of toasted nuts, white flowers and new oak. Full-bodied, ample and layered, it’s rich and expansive, but it also maintains good tension.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RP

This ripe style is fresh and harmonious, delivering plum, cherry and boysenberry fruit, with accents of earth, iron and eucalyptus. Supple in texture, with a beautifully integrated structure and long, complex aftertaste. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best from 2026 through 2043. 29,667 cases made, 5,833 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThis is one of the big surprises of this tasting and ultimately represents one of the best buys in the entire extended Marchesi Antinori portfolio. The 2021 Chianti Classico Riserva Tenuta Tignanello Marchese Antinori shares the DNA of Tignanello. It is Sangiovese kissed with small parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Of course, the wine is more accessible and open compared to Tignanello, and spiritually, this wine is a Chianti Classico. By that I mean that the elegant minerality of these soils and the sunny flavors of its environs are the determining characteristics. You get wildflower, iris, tart fruit and plum. The wine’s enhanced mineral character, with dusty white rock, is what adds lasting complexity and depth.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPThe 2021 Chianti Classico Riserva Marchese Antinori is particularly strong this year. Red cherry, plum, blood orange and pomegranate infuse the 2021 with notable depth. French oak is better integrated than in the past. There’s less extraction today and quite a bit more finesse. This is a terrific showing from Antinori.Vinous Media | 93 VMAmong this estate’s 130 hectares of vines in San Casciano Val di Pesa are the Tignanello and Solaia vineyards. This Riserva is fermented in stainless steel, undergoing a spontaneous malolactic fermentation and ageing in French and Hungarian oak barriques for 12 months before bottling. An old vintage, 2010, impressed us all in 2023 by topping the leaderboard at our ‘Ageing Chianti Classico’ panel tasting, and this 2021 equally has plenty of potential. It oozes with menthol, fresh hedgerow berries and some baked currants. There’s plenty of fruit intensity, backed by well integrated wood structure, and it keeps quite a vertical profile in the mouth which helps to belie its density. Powdery tannins coat the cheeks, balanced by fresh acidity, while the inherent juiciness of the fruit waits to be unlocked with time.Decanter | 93 DECAromas of cassis, French oak and violet lead the nose on the polished 2021 Chianti Classico Tignanello Riserva. On the structured, polished palate, tightly woven, fine-grained tannins support Morello cherry, red currant and licorice. It’s balanced, with fresh acidity. Drink 2025–2031. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 92 KO

Bright straw-colored, the 2021 Chardonnay Woolsey Road Vineyard is forward on the nose with notes of melon rind, fresh pear, flint, and delicate baking spice, and it has a lot of vibrant nature. Medium to full-bodied, it offers fantastic tension and a linear feel with great length, and it’s going to age very well. Drink 2025-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDThe 2021 Chardonnay Woolsey Road Vineyard is another dense, ample wine in this range. The Woolsey Road has a good deal of phenolic intensity. There’s real breadth and resonance here. Lemon confit, white pepper and dried herbs are nicely amplified.Vinous Media | 94 VMFragrant, focused and precise, offering flavors of lemongrass and lemon blossoms, with Meyer lemon and green papaya accents, plus a touch of tangerine. Shows green tea, lemon balm and white pepper notes on a mouthwatering frame, with a hint of salinity that lingers. Drink now. 787 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSRichness and concentration are the hallmarks of this full-bodied, mouth-filling wine. Deep in Bosc pears, baked apples and baking spices, it offers a creamy texture balanced by moderate acidity. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 93 JS

Get ready to pop the cork on a wine that’s as bold as it is beautiful! The 2022 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon struts its stuff with a deep purple-black hue that practically begs you to take a sip. A delightful bouquet of crème de cassis, violets, and a tantalizing hint of chocolate box. Once you take that first sip, the full-bodied experience unfolds like a velvet blanket. The finish is long lasting that will have you dreaming of your next glass. Sokolin Tasting Panel | 95 SP

The magnificent, carousel-like sweep of the hill of Corton – almost 100 m top to bottom, and revelling in every exposition save north – means that exact location on the hill is critical for quality. The white wines of Corton-Charlemagne come overwhelmingly from south-west- and west-facing vineyards, coolly exposed, so often these are among the least articulate of all Burgundy’s great white Grands Crus in their youth. Not, though, in the case of this wine from the generous 2022 vintage. It’s promisingly pale, but already compelling on the nose, with subtle oak, wild hawthorne blossom and refined grape and cool citrus. It has all the controlled breadth you’d expect on the palate with more white blossom and subtle, vinous, breath-freshening fruits. The finish is long and lingering, mingling ripe, fruit-bonded acidity with a quiet pulse of ripeness. It will, of course, be better after a decade in a cool cellar, but there’s nothing to stop you enjoying the wine soon, either. Alcohol 13.0%. (DWWA 2024). - Decanter | 97 DECFour plots all in Pernand. Pale in colour with ripe apple notes. The bouquet suggests a leaner style of wine than the palate delivers, which may be a question of being just after bottling. There is some complexity on the palate, a little lime, a phenolic touch. I don’t notice the 40% new wood, so there is clearly good fruit concentration.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JM

Here the equally cool, airy and elegant nose reflects citrus and floral scents that are liberally-suffused with a similar dose of borderline pungent wet stone nuances. There is both excellent volume and focused power to the dense and intense medium-bodied flavors that exude an almost palpable minerality on the superbly long finish that comes close to etching itself on the palate. This is an absolute knockout and a clear candidate for the best premier cru of the vintage.Burghound | 96 BHGuillaume Boillot continues to work his nearly four hectares of old vines in the Clos de la Mouchère in several parcels; we tasted each section separately. The vines near the wood surrounding Clos de la Garenne have bright citrus notes with hints of flint and mineral. Those near Clavoillon have more of a ripe pear and marzipan aroma; they are less focused but have more density, elegance and depth. The combination makes a superb wine that is one of the delights of Boillot’s cellar.Decanter | 95 DECMid yellow, with a biscuity touch. Seems unsubtle until you get to the palate which is super powerful but also with subtlety. This Monopole vineyard comprises four distinct terroirs though they are always assembled. An electric backbone stops the power overturning the balance. Yellow fruit, and then an extraordinary, indeed grand cru, weight. Incisive white fruit finish. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted: December 2023.Jasper Morris | 95-97 JMThe 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 1er Cru is one of the most shut down of the whites in this vast range. Mineral and savory notes abound, but fruit is decidedly pushed into the background. Citrus confit, crushed rocks, mint and white pepper all race across the palate. There’s quite a bit of youthful austerity at this stage, but this should come together in time. A whole range of complex floral and tropical nuances linger. - Antonio GalloniVinous Media | 93-95 VM

There is complexity on the nose, weight and concentration on the palate, along with great acidity, all combined with the ripeness of fruit and mineral notes on the finish. Just bottled but still showing beautifully. Manager Guillaume Michel notes that his Montée de Tonnerre is 100% from Chapelot. This is a south-facing, homogenous parcel from the bottom of Chapelot to the mid-level.Decanter | 95 DECThe 2022 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru has an attractive bouquet with touches of frangipane infusing the citrus fruit and hints of dried orange peel coming through with time. The palate is well-balanced with a waxy-textured opening. Good delineation, quite saline, with a twist of sour lemon dovetailing into a slight nutty/smoky note on the finish. One of the finest Premier Crus from Louis Michel.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMLean and tightly packed, with apple, lemon and stone flavors, this intense, balanced white remains well-delineated from start to finish, ending with compact fruit and mineral accents. Best from 2026 through 2033. 450 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSA more elegant, airier and more floral-suffused nose combines notes of spiced pear and enough Chablis elements to be more than just interesting. The refined, delicious and caressing middleweight flavors possess very good punch on the firm, balanced, moderately dry and bitter lemon-inflected finish. This markedly stony effort is also quite good and worth considering.Burghound | 91-94 BHFrom the Chapelot sector. Mid lemon yellow. the nose is much more backward than Vaulorent though with power. Picked 6th September at 12.5%. Plenty of guts to this, a more austere stoniness on the second half of the palate, no shortage of fruit, becoming just a little more opulent at the finish. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted: June 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JM

All Clairette Rose, the 2023 Châteauneuf Du Pape Chapelle Blanc is brilliant stuff, offering a clean, crisp, yet still concentrated style in its orange blossom, honeyed citrus, toasted spices, and chalky minerality. It’s medium to full-bodied, has a fresh, focused mouthfeel, beautifully integrated acidity, and a great finish.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JD

As you pour this pale pink treasure, delightful aromas of fresh citrus and wild berries dance before you, inviting you to indulge in its tantalizing embrace. Each sip reveals an elegant and balanced flavor, seamlessly blending the fruit-forward characteristics of Sangiovese with the silky tannins of Pinot Nero. With the most pleasant acidity and subtle minerality, every moment is a delightful experience with Colle É Rosé.Colle Bereto | 95 SP