Grand Cru Burgundy

wines

Out of all of the less than 20 year old wines in the tasting, the 2005 possesses the most aromatic complexity with simply knockout scents of still relatively primary red and dark berry fruit, spice, floral, humus, game and smoked tea. There is strikingly good concentration yet absolutely no sense of heaviness to the seductively textured and velvety broad-shouldered flavors that coat the mouth with abundant reserves of dry extract that also buffer the still very firm tannic spine. In addition to the obvious assets of complexity and concentration, what really impresses me about this exceptionally powerful wine is the impeccable balance and harmony as nary a hair is out of place. Note however that this is going to be one very, very long-lived effort and I wouldn’t touch a bottle for at least another 10 to 12 years. In a word, stunning.Burghound | 97 BH(13.6% alcohol; 30 h/h; 9/26 harvest): Healthy full red. Ripe, rich nose offers a spectacular combination of red and darker fruits, minerals, spices, mocha, mint, dried flowers and underbrush, lifted by strong florality. Wonderfully concentrated, sappy, still-youthful wine with outstanding tactile depth and fruit retention to its flavors of cherry, redcurrant and crushed rock. Combines the energy and precision of the ’08 with the greater volume of the ’09. This compellingly chewy, extract-rich wine, still a bit brooding and short of its peak, expands and builds inexorably on the aftertaste. There’s a 3-D texture and a noble soil character here that I find exhilarating.Vinous Media | 95+ VM

The 2002 Clos de Vougeot le Grand Maupertui Grand Cru, which comes from vines born in 1904, is endowed with darker fruit than the Grands-Echézeaux. Well-defined, maybe a little opulent in style, yet still controlled. The palate is well-endowed with dark berry fruit, more black than red, pain d’épice and white pepper. There’s plenty of substance and grip towards the finish. But it is always elegant and deserves 10-12 years in bottle. Excellent.Vinous Media | 95-97 VMThe vines were planted in 1904. A richer deeper ruby purple. A flamboyant pure fruit on the nose, sort of unexpected for Clos Vougeot. Excellent tension on the palate, all the structure that a Clos Vougeot needs but nothing in excess. Seamless, sensual, yet with all the strictness it should have. Very fine. Drink from 2032-2040. Tasted: November 2023.Jasper Morris | 95-98 JMThis is also quite spicy and even more aromatically restrained with its fresh nose of earthy red pinot fruit. The denser and even more powerful larger-bodied flavors deliver excellent length on the impressively long and very much built-to-age if decidedly austere finale that flirts with rusticity. This is a classic CV and one that should age accordingly.Burghound | 92-95 BH