Grand Cru Burgundy

wines

The 2020 Grands Échézeaux Grand Cru is a striking young wine, offering up aromas of mulberries and cassis mingled with orange zest, exotic spices and rose petals. Full-bodied, seamless and complete, with an immensely layered, fleshy palate, it concludes with a long, penetrating, saline finish. Such is its fruit concentration that its rich, powdery tannins are almost imperceptible. Over the last decade, the Grands-Échézeaux has tended to take a back seat to the Romanée-Saint-Vivant and Richebourg, but that certainly isn’t the case in 2020.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPAn exceptionally dense purple. The bouquet suggests an exceptional wine. It has enormously more intensity than the preceding three wines, yet no sign of whole bunches, and just a light patina of oak. Rich mature fruit throughout. Dark strawberries with a suggestion of chocolate. Plump fruit backed by just enough acidity, long and graceful. Will these wines tighten up? Will tannins start to show beneath? For the moment they are smothered by the fruit. The longer in the glass, though, and the structure does appear. In terms of quality delivered in proportion to the fame of each appellation, the Echezeaux is the stand out wine from the Domaine this year. Drink from 2030-2045. Tasted Oct 2022.Jasper Morris | 97 JMThe 2020 Echézeaux Grand Cru is one of the standouts in this tasting. Opulent and sumptuous to the core, the Echézeaux is a real head-turner. I suppose it is not as complex as some of the other wines in this range, but as Aubert de Villaine once said to me about his Montrachet "You don’t always want complex, do you?" A rush of dark blue/purplish fruit, spice, chocolate, spice and lavender races across the palate. Readers will find a racy, hedonistic Burgundy that will drink well with minimal cellaring. What a wine!Vinous Media | 96 VMThe 2020 Echézeaux has a deep colour and a noticeably dark fruit character, with aromas of ripe blackberry, earth, and spice complemented by floral rose petal notes. The texture is supple and rich, and the wine is a noticeable step in intensity and concentration, underlaid with velvety tannins that linger on the palate. The grapes come from the domaine’s 4.67-hectare holdings, largely in the lieu-dit of Poulaillères, and were picked on 30 August and 1 September with a short break for rain; 15,361 bottles were made.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECAn exuberantly spicy and wonderfully floral nose exhibits additional aromas of poached plum, mocha, jasmine tea and an interesting hint of tangerine peel. The rich, concentrated and powerful bigger-bodied flavors possess an absolutely gorgeous mouthfeel thanks to the abundance of sappy dry extract that also buffers the firm core of ripe tannins shaping the stunningly long finish. This actually isn’t quite as refined as the Petits Monts, but it is definitely more powerful and imposing, as well as slightly more structured.Burghound | 95 BH

The 2020 Montrachet Grand Cru is brilliant, uniting all the breadth and plenitude of which this vineyard is capable with all the work that’s been quietly going on at the domaine to bring greater precision and integration to the white wines. Exhibiting extravagant aromas of honeyed orchard fruits, confit peach and green mango mingled with hints of nutmeg, freshly baked bread and buttery pastry, it’s full-bodied, satiny and broad shouldered, remaining vibrant and dynamic despite all its heft and weight, and revealing its chassis of chalky structuring extract as it opens in the glass. It concludes with a long, resonant finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RPA mid lemon yellow colour. A completely different beast to the Corton-Charlemagne. A spectacular bouquet almost in what it doesn’t display as much as in what we can see. “The Montrachet shows the titles of the chapters but no text as yet”, suggests Bertrand de Villaine. Discretion on a grand scale. The palate has all the intensity you would hope for but leaves you space. Retasting the 2020 Montrachet after the Corton-Charlemagne again, the fruit comes out more, adding a dimension in the middle which does not affect the whole. An absolute baby which could become, will become, a classic Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet. Drink from 2030-2050. Tasted Oct 2022.Jasper Morris | 99 JMThe Montrachet was picked on 5 September, and Bertrand noted that they were the last grower to pick here and were all alone in the vineyard. The Domaine has long pursued its singular vision of Chardonnay; co-director Perrine Fenal noting that ‘ripe Chardonnay was very Aubert’. Despite the rich, lush character of this wine there was no trace of heaviness. The wine was dense with buttery, spicy tropical fruit, but the genius of Montrachet is to be the richest white wine in the world, and this vintage was a dizzying success that should last for fifty years. 3,539 bottles produced.Decanter Magazine | 98 DECA more subtle though still easily perceptible application of oak still easily allows the markedly spicier and prominent petrol scents to be appreciated. The exceptionally rich, concentrated and impressively constituted broad-shouldered yet refined flavors display outstanding power and drive on the focused, firm and hugely long finish. This is an opulent Montrachet but one that is clearly built to repay extended keeping. One of the great wines of the 2020 vintage that should age and improve over the next 30 to 40 years. In short, this is positively brilliant.Burghound | 98 BHThe 2020 Montrachet Grand Cru is elegant, airy and so expressive. It reminds me of vintages such as 2001 and 2004, Montrachets that favored precision and freshness over volume or exotic richness. Hints of lemon confit, marzipan, white flowers and tangerine oil all grace this exquisite, mid-weight Montrachet from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. I went back to the 2020 numerous times during this tasting and witnessed it open beautifully with aeration and time in the glass.Vinous Media | 96 VM