Burgundy Crus

wines

This lovely, powerful wine offers aromas of greengage plum, Williams pear and apple. The texture is rich, but the wine is still elegant and not at all hard to love. This vintage is the first bottling of a white Boudriotte, as far as I can tell – it used to get blended into the broader Morgeot appellation. Like Morgeot, Boudriotte can be a blend of several different lieux-dits; for this wine, a new 0.26ha vineyard in Chaumes is blended with 0.11ha of Champs Jeandreau .Decanter Magazine | 94 DECFrom Champ Jeandreau and a more recent planting in Chaumes. Clean fresh fruit, not too powerful. Quite lean and tense, a little bit more citrus. A suggestion of some light peach behind, but adding a dimension rather than denaturing.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

The 2023 Montrachet Grand Cru showed a little more cloudiness in the glass due to the lees (of course, they will disappear once racked). Perhaps the nose is a little primal as a result—it’s not as complete as the Bâtard or the Bienvenues. The palate is more indicative of where this Monty will be heading. It has intense, immense weight with an almost pixelated mineral-driven finish. This is going to be a great Montrachet, but it might take longer to reveal its true identity. Only six barrels were produced this year.Vinous Media | 96-98 VMSix barrels. This was slow to ferment and is still not clear after racking. A huge volume of pure white fruit with a slightly honeyed not as well, and a limestone backbone that drives the second half of the wine. Opulent in one sense yet managed, while the length and concentration of the finish is fully Montrachet worthy. Come back in many years. Lime as well as limestone, lingering in the mouth. Drink from 2032-2040. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 95-97 JMEnough wood to remark upon surrounds the cool and airy white orchard fruit aromas that are liberally laced with spice, zest and floral nuances. The sleek, intense and impressively scaled flavors brim with sappy dry extract that seems to have no effect on the precision of the wonderfully long, bone-dry, superbly long and well-balanced finale that is also supported by citrus-tinged acidity. This is not a massive Montrachet but it’s beautifully proportioned and a wine that should more than repay extended keeping. Moreover, it’s the class of the cellar in 2023.Burghound | 93-96 BH

The density and balance are so attractive here, with sliced apples, white pineapple and crushed stones. Hints of dried flowers, too, such as white roses and lilacs, as well as almonds. Medium-bodied with focus and subtle strength. Seemingly endless, with a bitter-lemon edge and nice reduction in the aftertaste of gun metal. Drink and enjoy.James Suckling | 96 JSDrouhin’s Clos des Mouches 2023 exemplifies the vintage’s potential for delicious whites. The wine has lush, forward aromas of Mirabelle plums and quince with hints of marzipan, butter and a suggestion of stylishly smoky reduction. The texture is supple and dense, but the richness is kept in balance and the extract carries the wine to a lingering finish. Parts of the 7ha vineyard have been replanted; the old vines that produce this bottling have delivered a wine of great character.Decanter Magazine | 94 DEC The 2023 vintage of Clos des Mouches Blanc is an absolute classic in the making, but it will demand a few years in the cellar to properly blossom before it will start hitting on all cylinders. The bouquet is deep, nascently complex and beautifully detailed, delivering scents of apple, lemon, beeswax, chalky soil tones, a nice touch of sweet butter, dried flowers and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied and a bit reserved in profile at the present time, with a superb core of fruit, fine soil signature and grip, very good acidity and a long, poised and impeccably balanced finish. This really has grand cru weight and authority on the palate, but also a bit of a structural chassis that will want to be waited out before starting to drink the wine with abandon. (Drink between 2029 - 2060)John Gilman | 94+ JGThe 2023 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Blanc (Domaine) is another strong performance, delivering aromas of sweet pear, peach and mandarin mingled with buttered toast and mint. Full-bodied, rich and ample, it’s layered and unctuous, with a seamless, satiny, textural profile and a long, lusty finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-94 RPThe 2023 Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc 1er Cru has more intensity on the nose than expected, with lovely lilting yellow fruit, quince and crushed stone scents. The palate is very well balanced and generous, with a slightly oily texture, great depth, fine acidity and a judicious touch of lemongrass toward the finish that feels long and intense. This may well surpass the 2022.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMMid lemon, with the somewhat more sumptuous bouquet of Clos des Mouches, always more flesh right from the outset. This is a powerful fleshy wine, with a good oak support, probably higher in alcohol. Lower than expected yield here in white. May well be around 14% I suspect but that goes with this territory. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Nov 2024.Jasper Morris | 92-95A vague suggestion of the exotic is present in the form of jasmine tea, orange peel, white peach and a background hint of passion fruit. The medium-bodied flavors are rich to the point of opulence yet retain a relatively sleek mouthfeel that carries over to the balanced and nicely dry finale. This attractively persistent effort could use better depth so at least a few years of cellaring should prove to be beneficial.Burghound | 90-92 BH

The 2024 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a delectable nose not dissimilar to the Criots this year, beautifully defined with hints of oyster shell surfacing with time, quite Zen-like but paradoxically conveying real presence. The palate is very well balanced with wonderful poise. Impressive depth and concentration considering the growing season with a sprightly finish that fans out in a cool, calm and collected fashion. This is an excellent Bâtard-Montrachet that has its nose in front of the Criots.Vinous Media | 95-97 VM

The concentrated exotic fruit aromas of this wine range from passionfruit and kiwi to gooseberry, with accents of acacia flower, spice and smoke. The texture strikes a beautiful balance between lively, fresh acidity and substantial extract, lingering exquisitely on the palate. The grapes are from just over a hectare of vines planted at the northern end of Les Pucelles, including a sliver of the Clos des Meix, which mainly belongs to Domaine Leflaive. This powerful wine should last 30 years at least.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2024 Clos de la Pucelle is a brilliant wine in the making. The wine’s aromatic constellation is elegant and complex, delivering scents of pear, golden delicious apple, lemon zest, crème pâtissière, apple blossoms, vanillin oak and a stunning foundation of chalky soil tones. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, crisp, complex and utterly refined in personality, with a beautiful core of succulent fruit, even better backend mineral drive, vibrant acids and a very long, seamlessly balanced and youthfully complex finish. This is a brilliant premier cru in the making, but it will demand some cellaring time to blossom properly. (Drink between 2030-2060)John Gilman | 94+ JGFresh lemon yellow with a green tint, rather more backward on the nose. Still working itself out. There is more structure here but less appeal in youth. The Clos de la Pucelle offers good tension, but this will take time. I am not yet seeing the electric backbone that this wine can have. Drink from 2030-2036. Tasted Oct 2025.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMThe 2024 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Pucelle 1er Cru was coming out to play when I visited the Domaine, the nose obstinate and backward. The palate is crisp on the entry, quite malic with cooking apple and notes of pear, moderate depth and a dash of spice on the finish. Fine, but it needs to find its groove.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

Jean-Michel Chartron’s Clos des Caillerets may well be the finest 2024 premier cru which I tasted on my entire trip to the region this year. The wine’s bouquet is simply stunning, offering up scents of pear, golden delicious apple, fresh almond, a complex foundation of limestone minerality, crème pâtissière, honeysuckle, lemon zest and a deft framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, pure and precise, with a stunning core of fruit, great mineral undertow, a fine spine of acidity and huge backend energy and lift on the seamlessly balanced and complex finish. This is an utterly brilliant wine, but its closing note of blood orange citrus on the backend also underscores how young it still is and that it will deserve some bottle age to open up completely. (Drink between 2030-2065)John Gilman | 96 JGAn exceptional wine – I wrote on the day of tasting that it was ’the archetype of Puligny,’ for its pronounced lime peel and flinty minerality and the impressive extract and depth on the palate balanced by a lively acidity. The grapes are from the hectare that the Chartron family retains here, north of Montrachet, at the same elevation on the slope. The Clos was a former monopole of the Chartron family, and they are still the reference standard for the site.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2024 Puligny-Montrachet Clos du Cailleret 1er Cru has a little more precision and detail compared to the Clos du Cailleret this year. Touches of Conference pear and orange pith and a hint of candle wax on the nose. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, quite dainty and elegant yet there is real cohesion and precision towards the finish. This is very classy.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMMid lemon and lime. Plenty of concentration here and greater expression than the Pucelles. This is really quite fine, with stony particles alongside the white fruit flesh. The nose needs to emerge further but this is capable of developing in to a fine Cailleret. 13 barrels made. Drink from 2030-2036. Tasted Oct 2025.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JMA perfumed, spicy and much more elegant nose freely offers up its array of fruit that derives mostly from the red side of the fruit spectrum. Like the Bourgogne, there is no better than barely average density to the vibrant and stony flavors though I like the length and balance of the lightly austere finale. This too should drink well relatively early on or with 3 to 5 years of keeping.Burghound | 89-91 BH