Burgundy Red Wines

wines

(Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Volnay "Champans" 1er Cru Red) Remarkably this has changed relatively little since my initial in-bottle review amost 10 years ago as the ripe raspberry liqueur-like nose evidences hints of spice, violets, earth and underbrush. The vibrant, pure, round and naturally sweet medium-bodied flavors possess excellent intensity on the precise, powerful and mineral-driven finish. There is a beautiful tension to this wine and while there is a serious tannic backbone, this seems supple on the mid-palate because the structure is so well-buffered. This is still very much on the way up and should easily see its 50th birthday (and many more) in superb condition. As such I would strongly advise letting this beauty continue to slumber. (Drink starting 2025)Burghound | 94 BHOne of the three batches that will be blended to make up d ‘Angerville’s 2005 Volnay Champans was still in malo, so I base my assessment on the other two. Scented with cherry and cassis, flowers and fungus, smoke and chalk dust, this displays richness and depth, fine tannins and emerging silkiness, and a youthfully firm but long finish loaded with savory subtleties. Just give it 6-8 years before revisiting. (The outstanding d’Angerville 2004s were also very late to finish malo, and the Champans is especially memorable for its vivid sauteed champignons, alluring ginger spice, marrowy richness, and flattering mouth feel, indeed comparable in quality though lacking the developmental potential of this 2005. As a striking example of mercantile bipolar disorder, I purchased this outstanding 2004 for $49.99 from a merchant whose price on the 2005 thus represented a 350% premium!)Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPGood full red. Reticent nose suggests cherry, licorice, flowers and truffle. Displays the copious sweetness of the vintage but with terrific focus and underlying spine. A stony, minerally pinot with real delicacy and cut. The long, noble finish offers a lovely combination of silk and stone and enticing lingering perfume. An archetypical Volnay that combines structure and charm: I wouldn’t be surprised if this merited an even higher score eight or ten years from now.Vinous Media | 93 VMRigid now, with cherry, mineral and smoke notes backed by burly tannins. Yet, it’s elegant in stature, concentrated and built for the long haul. Closed up already, but be patient. Best from 2014 through 2028. 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS(Marquis d’Angerville Volnay “Champans”) By all indications, this will be a great vintage for the Champans chez d’Angerville. This can often be one of the more recalcitrant young wines in the cellar, but it is showing remarkable refinement out of the blocks. The bouquet offers up notes of cherries, red berries, coffee, lovely minerality and a touch of spicy oak. On the palate the wine is deep, fullish and intensely flavored, with again simply striking purity, excellent focus and balance, and a long, moderately tannic and tangy finish. Fine juice. (Drink between 2012-2035)John Gilman | 92-93 JG

(Marquis d’Angerville Volnay “Fremiets”) The 2005 Fremiets is also showing atypically black fruity in character, but also offers simply striking focus and purity as well. The bouquet is a mélange of black cherries, plums, bitter chocolate and a truly great expression of minerality. On the palate the wine is medium-full, deep and intensely flavored, with rock solid structure, a sappy core of fruit, and stunning grip on the long, soil-driven and ripely tannic finish. Truly a fine vintage for the Fremiets. (Drink between 2012-2030)John Gilman | 92 JG(Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay Frémiets 1er Cru Red) This is more discreet and reserved with wonderfully pure notes of red, black and blue fruits plus a lovely hint of violets that sit atop dusty, refined and gorgeously delineated flavors supported by an almost pungent minerality on the textured, long and explosive finish. This is more concentrated and structured than usual and should live for a very long time. (Drink starting 2013)Burghound | 91-93 BH

A superbly fresh and beautifully layered nose of cool red berry fruit, floral notes and wet stone, the latter of which is present in abundance on the rich yet beautifully detailed middle weight flavors brimming with minerality and energy, all wrapped in a focused, linear and precise finish of huge length, which remains at present youthfully austere. A classic Ducster that will require 10 to 12 years to be at its peak and readers should note that unlike some ’08s, this will not be especially approachable young.Burghound | 94 BHGame, leather, forest floor and black tea and peat smokiness are prominent in the nose of d’Angerville’s 2008 Volnay Clos Des Ducs in a way not approached by any of its siblings. Similarly, bittersweet, iris-like inner-mouth floral perfume lends a dimension dear to lovers of Volnay that was not in evidence in other d’Angerville 2008s, at least at this stage. These distinctions noted, there is red berry profusion here, too, and a sappy, energetic overall impression, encompassing a gripping finish, and with mineral diversity – chalk, salt, iodine, alkali, and I-don’t-know-what – that helps guarantee that this firmly and finely structured Volnay will remain dazzlingly complex, if handsomely lean, for the next 15 or more years.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPYoung and unevolved, this red delivers a core of pure cherry, raspberry and mineral notes that are buoyed by a lively structure. The tannins are there, yet they’re ripe, and the finish goes on and on, with a spicy aftertaste. Best from 2013 through 2024. 110 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSThe 2008 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru is much more complex on the nose than the Champans, with brambly red fruit, a touch of loam developing with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, taut and crisp, tightly wound red fruit, still quite austere towards the finish, but it gains a little more flesh in the glass. Serious though, and I can see it continuing to age in bottle.Vinous Media | 90 VM

(Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Volnay "Frémiets" 1er 1er Cru Red) Here the nose is appreciably fresher and also displays notes of red currant though the minerality now extends to the aromas and in hallmark Frémiets style, also suffuses the rich, supple and refined middle weight flavors blessed with ample amounts of dry extract that buffer the moderately firm tannins on the impressively long finish. The minerality is so strong that there is a Chablis-like saline character. A classy effort of finesse. (Drink starting 2016)Burghound | 91-93 BHThe 2009 Volnay Fremiet is beautifully pointed. Sweet dark cherries, plums, violets, graphite and licorice are woven together in an articulate, chiseled Volnay that impresses for its energy, delineation and sheer underlying structure. All the elements are in the right place. This is a terrific showing from d’Angerville and one of the few 2009s that actually needs time to come together.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 2009 Volnay En Caillerets bursts from the glass with a huge, explosive bouquet. Blackberries, blueberries, hard candy and spices are just a few of the notes that emerge from this layered, intense Burgundy. There is plenty of inner tension here, in fact the Caillerets appears to be holding back a lot of its potential. It is a dazzling wine though, and one built for the long haul. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2049.Robert Parker | 94 RP(Domaine Pousse d’Or Volnay "En Caillerets" 1er 1er Cru Red) A discreet touch of wood frames notably elegant aromas of plum, violets and stone where the latter element also suffuses the rich, fleshy and delicious middle weight flavors that possess an abundance of dry extract that buffers the moderately firm tannins on the impressively persistent finish. This should be lovely in time. (Drink starting 2017)Burghound | 92 BH(Domaine de la Pousse D’Or Volnay en Caillerets) Bright fresh ruby. Aromas of cassis, mint and game, along with a liqueur-like note of black cherry. Sweet and concentrated, round and full. Wonderfully ripe without being roasted, with an element of sweetness giving this wine considerable early appeal. Substantial sweet tannins are buried under the wine’s fruit today on the long finish.Vinous Media | 91 VM

The 2018 Santenay 1er Cru Le Beaurepaire Rouge has also turned out beautifully, mingling aromas of ripe cherries, cocoa nib, sweet soil tones and spices in a complex bouquet. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and sensuous, its ample core of fruit is underpinned by lively acids and melting tannins. This is one of the most texturally refined wines in the range this year, but for all the early accessibility that conveys, it will age with grace.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RPAttractive spice, florals and a white-pepper and chalky edge to the nose. Elegant, svelte and gently peppery palate with smooth, fine-grained tannins. Drink over the next five years.James Suckling | 91 JS

Aromas of cherries, cinnamon, dark chocolate and rich soil tones introduce the 2018 Santenay 1er Cru Le Passetemps, a medium to full-bodied wine that’s velvety and enveloping, with a layered core of ripe but succulent fruit, powdery tannins and a long, resonant finish. Might this be the best Passetemps that Vincent has produced from this high-density 2004 planting? I’m certainly inclined to think so.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

The 2019 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru was bottled in June and July ‘21. Very perfumed and floral scents on the nose, dark cherries, bergamot, damp earth and touches of clove, later hints of violet and blood orange (traits that I observed out of barrel). This is nicely detailed. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannins, fine acidity, lightly spiced with a classy espresso-tinged finish that lingers in the mouth. Excellent. (Drink between 2025-2050)Vinous Media | 95 VMZanetti divides the Clos des Epéneaux in four sections, which are all fermented and matured separately and then assembled. The assemblage of the three is the most compelling, with a mix of violet notes and expressive cherry fruit aromas on the attack, plus mineral, spice and saline notes that develop with time. There is plenty of body, but little of the tannic, slightly rustic character for which Pommard can be known. Drinking Window 2024 - 2034.Decanter | 94 DECA very ripe nose is comprised by notes of both red and dark currant along with a background hint of a kind of reduction that the Burgundians refer to as bourgeon de cassis. There is fine freshness and verve to the moderately dense, powerful, and muscular larger-scaled flavors that coat the palate with sappy dry extract before concluding in a dusty, austere, and firm finale. This is also relatively supple and opulent that will need to develop depth over the course of its aging curve. (Drink starting 2029)Burghound | 92 BH

Silky and beautifully balanced, displaying violet, raspberry, cherry and vanilla flavors. Though plush, this red is also lively and on the elegant side. Firms up on the fruit- and spice-infused aftertaste. Best from 2023 through 2035. 390 cases made, 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSWhispers of char and smoked nut accent this rich black-cherry and plum flavored sip. Matured 12 months in barrel prior to bottling, it’s etched by subtle veins of sweet spice and and vanilla. This plush, softly tannic expression of Beaune is ready now but will likely drink well through at least 2030.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

The 2019 Santenay 1er Cru Les Gravières derives from a parcel at the southern end of this large climat, which was planted in the early 1950s and where missing vines have never been replaced. Delivering aromas of sweet red berries, orange rind, rose petals and spices, it’s medium to full-bodied, layered and perfumed, with lively acids and powdery tannins that assert themselves on the saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2019 Santenay Les Gravières 1er Cru was bottled in October 2020. Wild strawberry and raspberry feature on the nose, interwoven with iris and potpourri scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a little more substance and concentration than the 2020, and fine grip and tension on the finish. This should give several years’ drinking pleasure.Vinous Media | 90 VM

The 2019 Pommard Clos du Verger 1er Cru has a lovely, ripe and generous bouquet with candied orange peel and marmalade notes infusing the red berry fruit. Good delineation here and better oak integration than the Charmots. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit, a fine bead of acidity, quite fleshy with a tender and long finish. Approachable for sure, but I find this has more style than Pillot’s other Pommards.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMUnwinding in the glass with notes of cherries, plums, orange rind and rose petals, the 2019 Pommard 1er Cru Clos de Verger is medium to full-bodied, supple and fleshy, with lively acids and an ample core of fruit. As usual, this is one of the most charming, immediately seductive wines in the range.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP(Domaine Fernand et Laurent Pillot Pommard "Clos de Vergers" 1er Cru Red) Strong menthol influence sits atop the overtly earthy aromas of red currant, cherry and pretty raspberry nuances. The succulent and relatively forward middle weight flavors terminate in a slightly tangy and warm finale. (Drink starting 2027).Burghound | 89-92 BH

(Domaine Fernand et Laurent Pillot Pommard "Les Charmots" 1er Cru Red) Here too there is plenty of menthol influence though there are more floral characters on the mix of red and blue fruit scents. The relatively refined and seductively textured medium weight flavors exude a lovely salinity on the sneaky long and better-balanced finale. (Drink starting 2029).Burghound | 90-92 BHAromas of sweet berry fruit, woodsmoke, loamy soil and peonies introduce the 2019 Pommard 1er Cru Charmots, a medium-bodied, ample and especially refined rendition of this site, with a bright core of fruit and beautifully powdery tannins.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2019 Pommard Charmots 1er Cru is showing just a little oak on the nose that should be soaked up with bottle age. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy tannins, again, just a little oaky and toasty towards the finish, though the acidity is nicely judged and it possesses quite a persistent pepper aftertaste. Give it two or three years in bottle.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

As usual, the 2019 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Gravains is one of the more structured of the Domaine’s wines out of the gate, though those tannins always resolve rapidly, and this year they’re unusually fine. Mingling notes of cherries, plums and cassis with hints of smoked meats and spices, it’s medium to full-bodied, layered and lively, with a long, sapid finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RP

The 2019 Beaune 1er Cru Grèves has turned out beautifully, bursting from the glass with aromas of plums, sweet berries, spices, woodsmoke and orange rind. Medium to full-bodied, ample and velvety, it’s a charming, lively wine that’s open and expressive out of the gates.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

Richly intense high tones of fresh cranberries, rhubarb and peppercorn contribute to a voluminous nose of overripe strawberries and freshly picked cherries. The palate is round and textured with ripe cherries, quince, limestone and salt, which leisurely integrate along its long finish. Cellar through 2028.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEDelivers vibrant acidity that delineates black currant and blackberry fruit flavors, with floral, sandalwood, vanilla and earth accents. Features dense, fine-grained tannins and a finish that stretches out, revealing echoes of fruit and spices. Best from 2026 through 2040. 400 cases made, 26 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSMuch more subtle oak influence is present on the equally spicy and even more floral-suffused nose that blends notes of red raspberry with those of tea and dark cherry. There is a lovely inner mouth perfume to the energetic, sleek and tautly muscular flavors that possess excellent volume before terminating in a moderately austere, long and notably more complex finale. This is excellent though like all fine examples of Clos des Chênes, extended patience will be a virtue.Burghound | 91-94 BH

The wine has impressive ripeness, with a rich plum fruit and an earthy edge. There is a lovely intensity on the palate, which shows a concentrated extract, fresh acidity and firmish tannins, giving the wine good complexity and lead to a lingering finish. Jessiaume has almost a quarter of the vines in this preeminent premier cru of Santenay, right under the iconic windmill. Just over 4ha are planted to Pinot on the oolitic limestone soils. Picking started on the 23rd of August, the grapes were destemmed and fermented on native yeasts before ageing in cask (20% new).Drinking Window: 2025 - 2040Decanter | 95 DECWafting from the glass with aromas of sweet red berries, rose petals, dark chocolate and sweet soils tones, the 2020 Santenay 1er Cru Les Gravières is medium to full-bodied, layered and fleshy, with succulent acids, powdery tannins and an attractively seamless profile.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPThe 2020 Santenay Les Gravières 1er Cru has an open nose with red berry fruit, leather and truffle scents, a little rustic in style. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins, nicely balanced yet I feel it is closing up on the finish and will need time.Vinous Media | 90 VM

Iron, spice and dark fruit. Black pepper, too. Full and juicy, with lots of spice, asphalt, flowers and earth. Lots going on here. From Les Teurons and Bressandes sites. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSSince 2015, Kosta Browne winemaker Julien Howsepian has been travelling to Burgundy to select barrels from a cooperage near Beaune for his California Pinots. Aged in one-third new French oak, two premier cru plots were sourced for this Pinot: Les Bressandes, north of Beaune, confers rusticity, while Les Teurons contributes spice notes, underscored by redcurrants and cinnamon, bolstered by broad-shouldered tannins. A firm acid grip softens under a long, dark chocolate finish.Decanter | 92 DEC

The 2020 Beaune Boucherottes 1er Cru is perhaps the one cuvée from this appellation that showed just a little sur-maturité, very slight touches of prune filtering though the red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins, quite firm in the mouth with a slightly short finish.Vinous Media | 88-90 VM

Moderate wood surrounds the ripe blend of both red and black raspberry, exotic tea and pretty violet scents. The caressing, round and delicious medium weight flavors that possess good but not special density before firming up noticeably on the austere and much more mineral-driven finale.Burghound | 90-93 BHThe 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes (Domaine Louis Jadot) reveals aromas of rich berries, orange rind, peonies and warm spices. Medium to full-bodied, with a lively core of fruit, ripe but firm tannins and a nicely defined finish, it will demand some bottle age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPThe 2020 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru comprises of one 456-litre barrel this year. It has a very well-defined bouquet with seamlessly integrated oak and impressive mineralité. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, fine delineation, just a little chewiness on the entry but there is tension interwoven into this Volnay from start to finish, plus great persistency. Superb.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

Here too there are ample spice elements adding breadth to the poached plum and black cherry liqueur aromas. The succulent, round and delicious flavors possess good if not truly special mid-palate density before concluding in a moderately austere, balanced and firmly structured finale. Patience advised here too as this powerful effort should age effortlessly.Burghound | 90-92 BHNotes of cherries, sweet berries, raw cocoa and spices preface the 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Santenots (Domaine Louis Jadot), a medium to full-bodied, lively and vibrant wine, built around tangy acids and powdery tannins. As readers may remember, this parcel is situated quite near the route nationale, from the lower part of this large premier cru.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RPThe 2020 Volnay Les Santenots 1er Cru has a concentrated nose, one that feels a little "hemmed in", does not quite flow like the other Volnays from Jadot. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, quite bold and muscular, but missing the elegance that I seek from this vineyard.Vinous Media | 88-90 VM

This is also distinctly earthy with humus nuances adding breadth to the aromas of violet, plum and red currant. The succulent, round and equally sappy medium weight flavors possess a highly appealing mouthfeel while the youthfully austere finish is also shaped by firm but fine-grained tannins. This silky effort could use better depth but it’s already quite pretty and should prove to be admirably ageworthy. (Drink starting 2031)Burghound | 90-93 BHMid crimson colour. Not one of the more ebullient noses at first, on its reserve. Plenty of weight of fresh fruit a little bit of fresh orange, otherwise raspberry and redcurrant, no great weight at the back but good length. This needs and will get a longer elevage. Drink from 2027-2033.Jasper Morris | 90-93 JM

Unusually supple and charming for a young wine from this site, the 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeots Rouge reveals notes of plums, rose petals, smoke and spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, giving and open-knit palate.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RPA restrained and slightly somber nose features notes of pepper, cherry, raspberry and more prominent earth influence. The delicious medium weight flavors possess a fleshy, plump and round mouthfeel while exhibiting fine depth and persistence on the mildly rustic finish. While this well-made effort could also be enjoyed young, a few years of cellaring should be beneficial.Burghound | 90 BH

This ‘classique’ cuvée of Gravières is what is left after the old vines for the ‘Numerus Clausus’ bottling are removed (approximately 3.8 hectares). The remaining fruit still makes a compelling wine, with ripe red and black berry fruit aromas and hints of violets, earth, and leather. The texture is tannic but not astringent, and the tannins and fresh acidity carry this to a lovely lingering finish with great elegance and finesse. The destemmed fruit is given a cold soak and gently fermented before ageing in cask (25% new).Decanter | 92 DECThe 2021 Santenay Les Gravières 1er Cru is the main cuvée and comes from a considerable 3.8-hectare parcel. Slightly darker in colour, this has a clean and pure bouquet with dark cherries, citrus fruit - Mirabelle and Clementine, lightly spiced with just a hint of soy. The palate is medium-bodied with very pliant tannins, harmonious and focused, easygoing in the positive sense of the word. The wood tannins will require a little time to be fully assimilated.Vinous Media | 88-90 VM