Burgundy Wines

wines

The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru has another riveting bouquet with notes of white peach, orange pith and crushed limestone. It is intense but very elegant and delineated. The palate has exquisite balance and a little more rondeur compared to others. A touch more spiciness emerges toward the finish, with perhaps the longest aftertaste. This is superb.Vinous Media | 94-96 VMHere too the nose is cool and airy with its aromas of smoked apple, acacia blossom, crushed fennel and citrus confit. The richer and more concentrated, though less mineral-driven, middle weight flavors coat the palate with sappy dry extract on the clean, dry, delineated and balanced finale. This is really quite classy and well-worth your interest.Burghound | 91-94 BHA large block adjacent to Meursault. A fairly pale lemon yellow, with a concentration of solid white fruit on the palate. Significant weight, powerful on the palate, all very much a monolithic block of flavour, some ripe grapefruit at the finish. Weightier perhaps but Benoît’s style here at Sauzet is not for the massive. Two thirds come from 70 year old vines, one third 30. Good acidity to finish. Drink from 2029-2034. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JM

The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 1er Cru has a compelling strictness and mineralité on the nose, averting the more tropical inclinations of the preceding Champ Gain. It has just a small touch of reduction. The palate is well balanced with a keen line of acidity. There is a patina of oak to be absorbed, but there is real tension and attack in this Les Perrières. This is a concentrated wine that deserves more time in bottle.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMMid lemon yellow, a stony tension to the nose, softer fruit behind that, as we are lower on the slope, with an engaging generous finish, infiltrated by the sense of minerality. Very persistent. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JMAn airy and cool nose combines notes of pear and citrus with those of acacia blossom and just sliced citrus. Once again the mouthfeel of the medium-bodied flavors is super-sleek with a beguiling sense of underlying tension that carries over to the saliva-inducing, stony and beautifully delineated finale that isn’t quite as complex or persistent though it’s close.Burghound | 90-92 BH

The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet les Referts 1er Cru shows a little more ripeness and tropical traits than other cuvées from Sauzet. Its bouquet features notes of pineapple, nectarine and citrus peel, yet there remains delineation and mineralité that upholds a sense of Puligny-Montrachet. The palate is well balanced and weighty in the mouth, but I admire the tension and poise. It gradually builds toward the harmonious and subtle spice on the finish. Give this time.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMA slighter fuller lemon and lime colour. The bouquet suggests greater density of fruit. A light lick of oak which suits the more clay-based wines. Excellent energy, the oak backing up the fresh vigour of the fruit, and a well-balanced finish. Not the ripest, but quite powerful. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JMPungent aromas of moderate reduction and wood toast prevent an assessment of the nose. More interesting are the succulent, round and caressing middle weight flavors that possess solid volume and power that seems to build on the compact, sappy and well-balanced finale. Fine development potential here.Burghound | 91-93 BH

This lovely, powerful wine offers aromas of greengage plum, Williams pear and apple. The texture is rich, but the wine is still elegant and not at all hard to love. This vintage is the first bottling of a white Boudriotte, as far as I can tell – it used to get blended into the broader Morgeot appellation. Like Morgeot, Boudriotte can be a blend of several different lieux-dits; for this wine, a new 0.26ha vineyard in Chaumes is blended with 0.11ha of Champs Jeandreau .Decanter Magazine | 94 DECFrom Champ Jeandreau and a more recent planting in Chaumes. Clean fresh fruit, not too powerful. Quite lean and tense, a little bit more citrus. A suggestion of some light peach behind, but adding a dimension rather than denaturing.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

Offers a lovely lemon peel and mineral-inflected aroma, with hints of linden flowers and orange blossom. The texture is silky but not light; there is plenty of acidity to carry the weight of the extract. The grapes are from nearly 1ha of east-facing vines overlooking En Remilly; they are lightly crushed and gently pressed before fermentation in cask, 20% new. Give this two or three years in the cellar before opening and enjoy it over the next decade.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECThe 2023 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Charmois has turned out beautifully this year, offering up notes of citrus zest, lime leaf, nutmeg and hazelnuts. Medium- to full-bodied, satiny and precise, with good cut, density and persistence, it’s worth seeking out.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPMid lemon yellow. A touch of sandalwood, but otherwise quite chiselled. A substantial volume of white fruit on the palate, more flesh than Champlots, fine acidity, a little grapefruit behind, and very persistent. Picked at the perfect moment. Iodine from the rock. Drink from 2027-2031. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JMThe 2023 Saint-Aubin Le Charmois 1er Cru has a more neutral bouquet despite coaxing. It was a bit reticent at the time of my visit. The palate is crisp with a slightly shrill entry. This is quite sharp and "pointed" for a Saint-Aubin with a dab of ginger lingering on the finish. Fine.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet La Garenne 1er Cru has a well-defined nose with gravelly scents that unfold with each swirl. It’s quite strict, with hints of white tea in the background. The palate is well balanced, with a slightly tangy opening, touches of orange pith and a slither of sour lemon. Stem ginger adds a bit of feistiness on the finish. Drink it over the next decade.Vinous Media | 90-92 VMMid lemon yellow. The Garenne seems riper and softer than the previous wines, with some yellow plums, but still the delicacy of all the Sauzet wines this year, and with an agreeable, almost floral, long finish. Ripe citrus zest on the nose. The Sauzet team work the vines and buy the grapes. Drink from 2027-2031. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 90-93 JMSubtle though easily perceptible wood influence is present on the equally smoky aromas of petrol, apple and a broader range of floral elements. The supple and succulent, even seductive, medium-bodied flavors flash a subtle minerality that adds a sense of relief to the youthfully austere and sneaky long finale. I like the balance and this well-made effort should repay mid-term keeping.Burghound | 89-92 BH

An enthusiastically floral-suffused nose reflects additional notes of pear, apple, matchstick and just sliced citrus. There is first-rate density to the surprisingly powerful and overtly stony flavors that possess excellent size, weight and length on the balanced and firm finale. This too possesses fine development potential, which is just as well as more depth is needed.Burghound | 91-93 BHAn attractive lemon yellow, with a slightly riper nose, and plenty of stuffing. Ripe citrus rather than yellow plum. Plenty of energy on the palate, more weight, perhaps less finesse than some, but a well constructed Puligny none the less with notable persistence. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMThe 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Les Truffières 1er Cru takes a slightly different tack to the other Premier Crus from Sauzet. It has touches of brioche and almond on the nose, a hint of lanolin and later, frangipani. The palate is powerful and well balanced. This mouth-filling Puligny doesn’t quite deliver the same tension and mineralité as the previous vintage or some of the other Premier Crus this year. Maybe it was just picked a day late?Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

There is good Chablis typicity present in the form of iodine, seashore and petrol along with citrus zest top notes. The delicious, vibrant and precise middle weight flavors flash good minerality on the clean, dry and saline-inflected finish. This is very good for its level and worth considering.Burghound | 89-91 BHThe 2023 Chablis Village was assembled for my visit by Didier Picq from 10 vats. It has an attractive if light bouquet with apple blossom and fresh pear aromas. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, a little creaminess towards the finish. This will drink well for 4-6 years.Vinous Media | 88-90 VMBlend made up. Fresh pale yellow, immediate energy on the nose, this keeps growing in the glass, with good tension, even a little pleasing bitterness at the finish. Very promising. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Jul 2024.Jasper Morris | 87-90 JM

The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos Saint-Jean 1er Cru was picked a couple of days earlier than the Clos des Murées. Despite being opened the evening before my visit, there is still some reduction on the nose. The palate is taut, fresh, quite nutty and Meursault-like in style with an energetic, persistent finish. Give this a year or two in bottle—it is very promising.Vinous Media | 91+ VM