Burgundy Wines

wines

The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Maltroye 1er Cru has a "buttoned-down" nose that demands coaxing to reveal its yellow fruit, hazelnut and light orange rind scents. The palate is well balanced and opens up wonderfully with aeration, displaying a touch of orange rind, spice and smokiness on the finish. It’s quite mercurial and, to my senses, fascinating.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeots 1er Cru has a little more mineralité on the nose than the Vergers. Its bouquet contains light hints of clementine and beeswax aromas. The palate is well balanced, fresh and concentrated with a slightly viscous opening. It just needs a little more terroir to shape the finish.Vinous Media | 90 VM

More yellow in the colour, a waxy flesh, slight evolution in the sample, I cannot quite see the stones up front. They do appear on the palate and the wine extends very well through to a flinty finish, with some saline notes right at the back. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted Nov 2024.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JMThe 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet En Cailleret 1er Cru has a strict, almost sullen nose that demands coaxing from the glass, with hints of chamomile interlacing the orchard fruit, though I seek just a little more mineralité. The palate is well balanced with tropical notes of passionfruit and guava on the entry. Smooth in texture with countervailing acidity, the 2023 finishes open and easy-drinking. Drink just a year after bottling and enjoy this in its youth.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

Boasts an impressive concentration of lime, passion fruit and green apple aromas, with a firm, flinty minerality. The texture is dense but not heavy and surprisingly fresh for the vintage. The complex flavours echo on an interminable finish – this is among the great successes in Puligny this year. The grapes are from the 1.16ha of old vines at the north end of the clos that the Chartron family has owned for over a century. Cellar it for three to five years and drink over the next 20.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECTo my palate, Jean-Michel’s Clos de la Pucelle is always one of the finest premier cru bottlings made in Puligny and the 2023 version is no exception. The bouquet is complex, refined and vibrant, wafting from the glass in a mix of white peach, golden delicious apple, fresh almond, chalky soil tones, crème pâtissière, vanillin oak and citrus zest in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, very pure on the attack, rock solid at the core, with fine soil inflection, a lovely spine of acidity, great focus and grip and a long, complex and racy finish. This is more reserved than the Folatières in personality today, as it should be, but will clearly hit the higher mark once it is properly ready to drink. Great juice. (Drink between 2030 - 2060)John Gilman | 94+ JGPale lemon and lime. The bouquet is fresh and chiselled, a little more herbal in style, much steelier than Folatières. On the palate one finds the Pucelles rhythm, waves of white fruit of controlled intensity, with a more mineral finish. The length also exceeds that of the excellent Folatières. Drink from 2029-2034. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JMThe 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Pucelle 1er Cru is the monopole of the domaine. It has a more backward nose than other cuvées, with touches of orange blossoms and Granny Smith apples. The palate is well balanced, taut and fresh with a fine bead of acidity. It is tightly wound on the saline finish. This is a Puligny that will bide its time in bottle and reward those with the nous to cellar. This is very promising.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMHere too there is a suggestion of the exotic to the beautifully well-layered aromas of honeysuckle, white peach, acacia and subtle wood influence. The finer and more seductive, though less powerful and mineral-driven, flavors tighten up noticeably to become compact, serious and youthfully austere on the finale. While qualitatively similar to the Folatières, these are two very different wines.Burghound | 91-93 BH

A marvellous success, with a great concentration of pomelo, passion fruit and nectarine aromas, with a hint of white blossoms and flinty minerality. The texture is lively and crisp, but there is enough density to give this impressive length on the finish. The grapes are from the half-hectare the domaine owns here; they are lightly crushed before fermentation and ageing in cask, 30% new. Give this wine five to seven years before opening; it should last 20 years for those who have the patience to wait.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2023 Puligny-Montrachet “Folatières” from the Chartron family is an excellent wine. It was raised in twenty percent new oak this year and reveals a refined aromatic constellation of pear, apple, chalky soil tones, fruit blossoms, vanillin oak and a lovely topnote of orange zest. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, crisp and precise, with a succulent core of fruit, excellent acidity and soil signature, fine balance and a long, very elegant finish. Fine, fine juice. (Drink between 2028 - 2050)John Gilman | 93 JGThere is a whiff of exoticism to the cool aromas of citrus confit, white peach, passion fruit and acacia blossom. There is better volume to the solidly concentrated and relatively powerful medium-bodied flavors that retain good delineation on the stony, youthfully austere and serious finale that is supported by lemon-tinged acidity. This is a big, even robust, Folatières. (Drink starting 2031)Burghound | 91-93 BHThis is made from Chartron Hameau de Blagny vines (80%) plus some purchases. Pale in colour, on the leaner side, less engaging than Enseignères, quite tightly wound, a bit of white fruit but also plenty of oak. Needs a little time to come into place.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMThe 2023 Puligny-Montrachet les Folatières 1er Cru has a straightforward bouquet that doesn’t have the same degree of mineralité as the Vieilles Vignes this year. I wonder if this has more to give. The palate is taut on the entry, with satisfying weight, yet it needs a little more tension and energy on the finish.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

The 2023 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru has an attractive bouquet that seems to "expand" in the glass: apricot and peach skin meet a touch of melted candle wax, all nicely defined. The palate is medium-bodied with fine mineralité, fresh and focused, gaining weight towards the finish, which actually reminds me of the Perrières from Ballot-Millot. Excellent.Vinous Media | 93 VM

Displays a bright lemon peel and green apple fruit, with a bottom note of flinty minerality and just a hint of smoky reduction. The texture, however, is richer than the aromas would lead one to think – it is supple and approachable, with a hint of hazelnut on the agreeable finish. The domaine farms slightly more than a quarter-hectare near the base of the slope.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECPale colour, a softer white orchard fruit on the nose, there being more clay in the soil here. The mouth retains a certain juiciness, with the apples expanding towards the back of the palate. Clean and correct. Drink from 2027-2030. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 90 JM

Because it is blocked by the peak known as the Roche Dumay, this south-facing slope overlooking the hamlet of Gamay does not get the sun until after 10am, but it has light into the evening, lending the fruit a slightly exotic passion fruit character. The texture is not heavy, however, and winemaker Sébastien Caillat manages both elegance and finesse, although he notes that the ripeness can jump quickly at the end of the season.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECIn the hail corridor. .En Créot does not see the sun until 10am so harder to do the treatments when there is still dew. Pale in colour with a light white fruit. Some ripe apples, middleweight, a little more mineral tension than the village wine, with good length. Drink from 2027-2030. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 90 JM