California Classics

wines

The 2012 Pinot Noir Marcassin Vineyard lags the Chardonnay but is still a brilliant wine. Framboise, black cherries, strawberries, forest floor, and earthy nuances all emerge from this Burgundian, layered, powerful 2012 that has loads of sweet fruit. Brought up in new French oak, it doesn't show a hint of oak, has full-bodied richness and depth, and a great, great finish. Drink it anytime over the coming 10-15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2012 Pinot Noir Marcassin Vineyard, which comes primarily from the Calera clone (although I suspect there are a few mystery clones in their plantings), always seems to remind me of a grand cru from Burgundy’s Côte de Nuits, particularly Morey-St.-Denis. Dense ruby/plum, its sweet nose of strawberries, black cherry liqueur, fresh porcini mushrooms and forest floor is followed by a dark, full-bodied, rich and concentrated wine that is supple, dramatic, and even flamboyant. Drink it over the next 12-15 years.Robert Parker | 97 RP

The second vintage of this wine, the 2018 Chardonnay Powder House comes from eight acres of what are now estate-owned vines planted in 2013 to Hyde Old Wente and Mt. Eden clones on Goldridge soils. The vineyard is located in downtown Forestville, right across from the high school. It bursts with tantalizing notions of peaches and cream, orange sherbet and lemon pastilles giving way to a grounded, serious core of Bosc pears, beeswax and baking bread. Full-bodied with a gorgeous creaminess to the texture, it delivers loads of citrus sparks among the stone fruit background with a lively backbone and very long finish. 1,000 cases were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 99 RPThe first vintage of this cuvée I’ve been able to taste (it was first made in 2017), the 2018 Chardonnay Powder House comes from a site on the Sonoma Coast and is from a mix of old Wente and Mt. Eden clones. Its lighter gold hue is followed by a beautiful bouquet of white flowers, honeyed white peach, nectarines, and mint. It’s a classic Aubert Chardonnay, with clean, pure, complex aromatics, full-bodied richness, bright acidity, and a stunning sense of opulence pared with freshness. Drink bottles over the coming 7-8 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDSmoky richness accents the concentrated apple and peach pastry flavors, supported by steely acidity. Luscious spiciness emerges midpalate, with a long finish that lingers with intense minerality and sea salt details. Best from 2022 through 2027. 946 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSLots of aromas and flavors of lime zest and lime curd, dried pineapple, hawthorn and crushed hazelnut. Full-bodied and oily on the palate with lingering notes of lime and flint. Tight ending, but keeps going. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2018 Chardonnay Powder House is a bit nervous today. Bright mineral notes give the 2018 a good bit of energy and tension to drive the citrus and floral flavors. I am really looking forward to tasting the 2018 after bottling, as I imagine it will be a bit more relaxed.Vinous Media | 92-95 VM

Flinty and steely with dried-apple, cooked-apple, pineapple, stone and honeysuckle aromas and flavors. Full-bodied and layered. Dense and agile with a vivid, flavorful finish. Complex, rich and so long. Still tight. But ever so serious and complex. Another triumph from Aubert from this vineyard. Drinkable now, but better in a year or two.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2018 Chardonnay Sugar Shack is produced from Montrachet clone vines (what Mark Aubert calls “the citrus circus clone") grown in Rutherford AVA. It starts off a little closed at this youthful stage, soon unfurling to reveal notions of peach cobbler and pink grapefruit with an undercurrent of allspice, powdered ginger and chalk dust. The palate comes through with a powerful wall of concentrated stone fruit and baking spice flavors, supported by just enough freshness to lend balance and lift, finishing long and decadently toasty.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2018 Chardonnay Sugar Shack is wonderfully alluring from the first taste. The Sugar Shack is typically among the more overt wines in this range. The 2018 has plenty of that, but the cool, even growing season and bright acids temper some of that natural exuberance nicely. Orange peel, spice, butter and sweet vanillin all meld together in this wonderfully open-knit, luscious Chardonnay from Mark Aubert.Antonio Galloni | 93-96 AGCreamy and honeyed notes accent the lusciously spiced flavors of ripe peach and baked apple. Toasty and buttery on the juicy finish. Drink now through 2024. 743 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2018 Chardonnay UV-SL comes across as a little shy compared to the Napa Chardonnays, slowly unfurling to reveal oyster shells, peach blossoms, honeysuckle and brine notes over a core of lemon marmalade, crème brûlée and pink grapefruit plus a touch of key lime pie. Full-bodied, the palate is like a tightly coiled spring with loads of tension between the racy acid and all the taut fruit, finishing very long and very minerally. This should be very long-lived!Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96-98+ RPLithe, with notes of dried thyme to the Gala apple and pear tart flavors, rich and pure. Toasty accents show midpalate. The long finish is filled with flinty and minerally components. Best from 2021 through 2026. 874 cases made. — KMWine Spectator | 94 WSThe 2018 Chardonnay UV-SL Vineyard is ample, dramatic and textured in the glass, with tons of volume as well as resonance. Lemon peel, pineapple, white flowers, orchard fruit and mint all flesh out in this unabashedly opulent, richly textured Chardonnay. The UV-SL is bold and beautiful to the core.Vinous Media | 94-97 VM

A tank sample, the 2018 Chardonnay Belle Cote comes from a block planted to Old Wente and See Clone selections. In fact, this is from the oldest, 1990 plantings on the estate. Wow—the nose explodes from the glass with powerful scents of guava, quince, tangerine and lime blossoms plus touches of ginger ale, peach cobbler and crème caramel with a waft of struck flint. Medium-bodied, the palate features laser precision with a racy line cutting through the intense, tightly wound, mineral-laced fruit, finishing long and zesty. Should age incredibly! 3,100 cases are due to be made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97-99 RPThe 2018 Chardonnay Belle-Côte from the oldest vines on the property (planted in 1990), possesses dazzling mineral intensity to match its mid-weight, delineated personality. Lemon peel, pear, mint, white pepper and sage all develop in the glass. The clonal mix here is See, old Wente and Rued, with the floral top notes of Rued (that recall Riesling) especially evident, even if Rued comprises the smallest part of the blend.Vinous Media | 96 VMSleek, with steely, minerally details to the green apple and Asian pear flavors. The spicy finish features savory notes, accented by honeyed hints. Drink now through 2023. 3,151 cases made. — KMWine Spectator | 90 WS

A tank sample, the 2018 Chardonnay la Carriere comes from a block planted to Dijon and Hyde (Old Wente) clone selections. It sashays out of the glass with flamboyant notions of fresh ginger, lemongrass, allspice and orange blossoms over a core of peach preserves, pink grapefruit and apple pie with wafts of baking bread and marzipan. Medium to full-bodied, the texture is simply stunning—so satiny with fantastic tension to counter and layer upon layer of spices and savory flavors, finishing very long and very perfumed. 2,907 cases are due to be made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96-98 RPSleek and powerful, with crunchy acidity backing the concentrated white fruit and berry flavors, filled with minerally richness. Hints of dried thyme show on the svelte finish, which offers toasty and buttery accents. Drink now through 2026. 2,642 cases made. — KMWine Spectator | 94 WSThe 2018 Chardonnay La Carrière is delicate, fresh and nuanced, with lovely floral top notes. Hints of apricot, orange peel, orchard fruit, marzipan, mint and light butter notes grace this mid-weight, super-refined Chardonnay from Peter Michael. Bright underpinnings of salinity add energy, while floral notes reappear on the finish.Vinous Media | 93 VM

A tank sample, the 2018 Chardonnay Ma Belle Fille comes from a block planted to a field selection of Hudson, Old Wente, Montrachet and Calera clone selections. Winemaker Nick Morlet informs me that the berries are tiny across the board here. It prances out of the glass with joyful orange oil, fresh grapefruit and lime cordial aromas plus nuances of shaved almonds, wet slate, nutmeg and beeswax with a hint of honeysuckle. The palate is very tight-knit and a little closed at this stage, with emerging sparks of intense citrus fruits and savory/yeasty/toasty notes, framed by amazing freshness and a silken texture, finishing long and chalky. 2,190 cases are due to be made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97-100 RPThe 2018 Chardonnay Ma Belle-Fille is dense, powerful and tightly wound. I would give it a few years to come together. Ripe apricot, orange confit, baked apple tart and wild flowers infuse the 2018 with notable complexity to match its dense, packed personality.Vinous Media | 95 VMIntensely fruity and powerful, this is filled with concentrated pear tart flavors that feature notes of gooseberry and quince paste, showing hints of dried tropical fruits. Brioche and rich toasty details emerge on the unctuous finish. Drink now through 2026. 2,174 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS