California Classics

wines

(Cabernet Sauvignon “Martha’s Vineyard”- Heitz Wine Cellars) The 1987 Martha’s Vineyard hails back to the time when the labels stated 13.5 percent alcohol, and in this most recent vertical tasting of the wine, one did get a strong sense that this vintage and earlier were indeed just a tad less ripe than subsequent vintages. This slightly lower octane seems to allow an even stronger signature of soil to infuse the wines. The 1987 Martha’s is a great, great wine that seems to have been lost a bit in the shuffle when it was released, as it followed on the heels of the specially labeled 1985. The bouquet is deep and absolutely stunning, as it delivers a complex blend of black cherries, mint, a touch of chocolate, Rutherford dust, pretty mineral tones and an exotic topnote of allspice. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very pure and transparent, with a seamless attack, a sappy core, and great length and grip on the tangy and perfectly poised finish. A great vintage of Martha’s that is a bit undeservedly overlooked in the pantheon of Martha’s Vineyard bottlings. (Drink between 2011-2050)John Gilman | 96 JGAll three of the 1987 Heitz Cabernets are extremely tight, closed in, and unbelievably tannic and hard. The 1987 Martha's Vineyard possesses an opaque, dense ruby/purple color, and a shockingly subdued, almost non-existent nose. Only after five days of breathing did the famed mint and eucalyptus nose of the Martha's Vineyard Cabernet emerge! In the mouth, the wine is rich, burly, and full-bodied, but also tannic and unflattering to taste. To say the wine needs significant time in the cellar is an understatement. Anticipated maturity: 1997-2010.Robert Parker | 90 RP

Dalla Valle’s 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate is a worthy successor to the blockbuster 1990 and 1991. Huge, sweet aromas of black fruits, spices, and oak are followed by a wine with great fruit extraction, full body, layers of richness, and that multidimensional, layered feel that this producer routinely obtains. The flattering personality of the 1992 has resulted in a more unctuous and voluptuous wine than even the 1991 or 1990. Moreover, it will have 15+ years of aging potential.Robert Parker | 95 RPIntense and dark-colored, with deeply concentrated currant, anise, pencil lead and cedary oak flavors. Continues to reveal exceptional depth and concentration, with a long, fruity finish and firm tannins.--’92 California Cabernet retrospective. Drink now through 2010. 2,700 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon, which I have drunk with great pleasure despite its backwardness, possesses a full-bodied, multi-layered personality, with plenty of tannin, but sufficient earthy, black currant/plum-like fruit to balance out the wine’s structure. With an opaque purple color, a high tannin level, and gorgeous layers of fruit and intensity, it will be at its peak after 4-6 years of cellaring, and will last for 20-25 years. I don’t think I need to reinforce the fact that these offerings are extremely difficult to find, but isn’t that the way it always is with such extraordinary wines?Robert Parker | 94 RPImpressive for its richness, depth and concentration, this is a tightly wound, well-focused Cabernet that exhibits a wonderful pure core of currant, black cherry and blackberry fruit that’s remarkably youthful. For all its depth and complexity, it ends up being elegant and sophisticated.--California Cabernet ’74/’84/’94 retrospective. Drink now through 2014. 2,800 cases made. — JLWine Spectator | 94 WS(13.5% alcohol): Full dark red. Pure but subdued aromas and flavors of currant, leather and balsamic cedar, plus a hint of dried flowers. Sweet, lush and suave in texture but with nicely integrated acidity giving shape and lift to the middle palate. Finishes with sweet, granular tannins and excellent energy and lift. Delicious now but there’s no rush to drink it.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Close to perfection, the saturated blue/black-colored 1997 Maya exhibits complex aromatics of creme de cassis, smoke, spice box, iron, and espresso. The wine has a viscous texture, huge, concentrated, ripe fruit, remarkable body, and a seamless, multi-layered finish. The tannin, acidity, and alcohol are all beautifully integrated. This is profound stuff! Anticipated maturity: 2005-2030.Robert Parker | 99 RPSaturated full ruby. Explosive aromas of blackberry, black cherry, bitter chocolate, camphor, black licorice and violet. Extremely dense and thick without being heavy. Superb flavor intensity and depth. The thoroughly ripe tannins coat the entire palate. The slow-mounting, extremely long finish offers wonderful grip and vibrancy. A great vintage for Maya.Vinous Media | 95 VM

Bottled in early 2018, the deep garnet-purple colored 2015 Harlan Estate is a little closed, slowly unfurling to reveal black cherries, crème de cassis and plum pudding with nuances of potpourri, baking spices and tilled soil plus wafts of garrigue and wild sage. The palate is full-bodied and concentrated with exquisitely ripe, fine-grained tannins and fantastic poise and depth with a long, decadently fruited finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RPThe 2015 Harlan Estate is a beast of a wine that shows the sexy, opulent style of the vintage married to the classic structure and depth of this estate. A downright smorgasbord of blackcurrants, blackberries, crushed rocks, graphite, smoky camphor, cured meats, and dried tobacco aromas all emerge from the glass, and it shows the deep, concentrated style of the vintage yet still has awesome complexity and nuances. Deep, powerful, and structured, yet opulent and incredibly sexy on the palate, it reminds me of the 2002. A brilliant wine from this estate, it’s already approachable given its wealth of fruit yet has the tannic backbone and density to keep for 3-4 decades or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDIncredible aromas of fresh flowers, such as roses and violets, and blackcurrants. Full body and defined levels of fruit and tannins too. Love the brightness and texture. An excellent finish. Production was down by a third because of bad berry set. Try in 2021.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2015 Harlan Estate has developed into an arrestingly beautiful wine. Racy and sumptuous, the 2015 is already quite showy, with tons of dark cherry, plum, mocha, espresso, licorice, spice and tobacco character. Today, the 2015 comes across as a bit brooding and hard to read, although some of the rougher edges in the tannins I saw last year have softened. Even so, I would prefer to cellar 2015 for at least a few years. There is so much to look forward to.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGA huge red, with powerfully rendered dark fig, macerated black currant and steeped boysenberry fruit framed by a bittersweet chocolate note. With time in the glass, the fruit unwinds slowly, allowing anise and loam accents to fill in on the fleshy finish. There’s some serious heft here through the back end too, with a long echo of smoldering tobacco and a great tug of dark earth. Best from 2022 through 2040. 1,839 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WSLike most Harlan vintages, this is about 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, with small additions of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The nose displays a wonderfully refined blend of sumptuous blackcurrant fruit with stylish oak. Although rich and very concentrated, it's restrained and polished, showing excellent balance and length with no overbearing character and a discreet but present tannic structure. Drinking Window: 2021 - 2045.Decanter | 96 DEC

The 2015 Screaming Eagle is another monumental wine from this address, and it's one of those cases where if you afford it, you should buy it. A blend of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc, this magical elixir boasts a deep purple color as well as a blockbuster bouquet of blueberries, creme de cassis, violets, incense, and cedarwood. Reminding me of the 2015 Château Margaux with its off the charts class and purity, it’s full-bodied, thrillingly textured, and has a finish that just won't quit. This legendary wine is going to keep for 30-40 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDThis is a phenomenal wine on the nose with amazing aromas of mint and sage, highlighting the blackberry and slate character. Blackcurrants and wet earth. Medium to full body with incredible precision and beauty. It rolls off the palate with super fine tannins. Savory and juicy. The minerality and pureness draw you into it. A precise and sophisticated Screaming Eagle that brings you in. So drinkable now but better in 2022.James Suckling | 100 JSComposed of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc, the very deep purple-black colored 2015 Screaming Eagle leaps from the glass with notes of freshly crushed black currants, black cherries and blackberries with suggestions of cigar box, black raspberries, red currants, chocolates, pencil lead and cast-iron pan plus a touch of potpourri. Medium to full-bodied with a rock-solid backbone of ripe, grainy tannins and oodles of freshness, it features the most incredible black and red fruit layers and finishes with incredible vibrancy and depth.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RPThe 2015 Screaming Eagle is fabulous. Rich and ample on the palate, with soaring aromatics from the Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2015 is a drop-dead gorgeous beauty. Ripe red plum, pomegranate, mint, kirsch, lavender and sweet spice notes are beautifully delineated in the glass. In this tasting, the Cabernet-based Screaming Eagle is quite a bit more open and accessible than the Merlot-based The Flight. Even so, it will be years before the 2015 Screaming Eagle is ready to drink.Vinous Media | 98 VMNotable for the focus on dark berry, licorice, plum and light oak notes, this is solid throughout, fanning out to capture a range of flavors. Texturally smooth until the finish, where the tannins grip. Best from 2021 through 2030. 500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS