California Classics

wines

(Cabernet Sauvignon “Martha’s Vineyard”- Heitz Wine Cellars) The 1987 Martha’s Vineyard hails back to the time when the labels stated 13.5 percent alcohol, and in this most recent vertical tasting of the wine, one did get a strong sense that this vintage and earlier were indeed just a tad less ripe than subsequent vintages. This slightly lower octane seems to allow an even stronger signature of soil to infuse the wines. The 1987 Martha’s is a great, great wine that seems to have been lost a bit in the shuffle when it was released, as it followed on the heels of the specially labeled 1985. The bouquet is deep and absolutely stunning, as it delivers a complex blend of black cherries, mint, a touch of chocolate, Rutherford dust, pretty mineral tones and an exotic topnote of allspice. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very pure and transparent, with a seamless attack, a sappy core, and great length and grip on the tangy and perfectly poised finish. A great vintage of Martha’s that is a bit undeservedly overlooked in the pantheon of Martha’s Vineyard bottlings. (Drink between 2011-2050)John Gilman | 96 JGAll three of the 1987 Heitz Cabernets are extremely tight, closed in, and unbelievably tannic and hard. The 1987 Martha's Vineyard possesses an opaque, dense ruby/purple color, and a shockingly subdued, almost non-existent nose. Only after five days of breathing did the famed mint and eucalyptus nose of the Martha's Vineyard Cabernet emerge! In the mouth, the wine is rich, burly, and full-bodied, but also tannic and unflattering to taste. To say the wine needs significant time in the cellar is an understatement. Anticipated maturity: 1997-2010.Robert Parker | 90 RP

Dalla Valle’s 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate is a worthy successor to the blockbuster 1990 and 1991. Huge, sweet aromas of black fruits, spices, and oak are followed by a wine with great fruit extraction, full body, layers of richness, and that multidimensional, layered feel that this producer routinely obtains. The flattering personality of the 1992 has resulted in a more unctuous and voluptuous wine than even the 1991 or 1990. Moreover, it will have 15+ years of aging potential.Robert Parker | 95 RPIntense and dark-colored, with deeply concentrated currant, anise, pencil lead and cedary oak flavors. Continues to reveal exceptional depth and concentration, with a long, fruity finish and firm tannins.--’92 California Cabernet retrospective. Drink now through 2010. 2,700 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon, which I have drunk with great pleasure despite its backwardness, possesses a full-bodied, multi-layered personality, with plenty of tannin, but sufficient earthy, black currant/plum-like fruit to balance out the wine’s structure. With an opaque purple color, a high tannin level, and gorgeous layers of fruit and intensity, it will be at its peak after 4-6 years of cellaring, and will last for 20-25 years. I don’t think I need to reinforce the fact that these offerings are extremely difficult to find, but isn’t that the way it always is with such extraordinary wines?Robert Parker | 94 RPImpressive for its richness, depth and concentration, this is a tightly wound, well-focused Cabernet that exhibits a wonderful pure core of currant, black cherry and blackberry fruit that’s remarkably youthful. For all its depth and complexity, it ends up being elegant and sophisticated.--California Cabernet ’74/’84/’94 retrospective. Drink now through 2014. 2,800 cases made. — JLWine Spectator | 94 WS(13.5% alcohol): Full dark red. Pure but subdued aromas and flavors of currant, leather and balsamic cedar, plus a hint of dried flowers. Sweet, lush and suave in texture but with nicely integrated acidity giving shape and lift to the middle palate. Finishes with sweet, granular tannins and excellent energy and lift. Delicious now but there’s no rush to drink it.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Hobbs was one of the first to recognize the brilliance of Oakville’s Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard, and he has produced several wines that were either perfect, or pushing perfection. This 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard reveals that haunting, almost indescribable bouquet of red and black fruits, spring flowers, and subtle hint of lead pencil shavings that aromatically blows away the taster. If one could have a 100-point bouquet, this is it. Moreover, the flavors don’t let the taster down. Nearly as powerful and rich as the 2002, this full-bodied 2004 is a glorious, classic Napa Cabernet Sauvignon that has been flawlessly vinified. The enormity of the mid-palate, texture and skyscraper-like mouthfeel with no heaviness result in a prodigious effort that is one of the top four or five wines of the vintage. This spectacular wine can be drunk now or cellared for another two decades.Robert Parker | 99 RPThis pushes ripeness to the edge, yet it’s balanced, with spicy currant, cedary oak and hints of anise and cassis that are complex and deep without being heavy. The tannins are ripe and polished. Best from 2008 through 2015. 534 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS(14.8% alcohol): Deep, bright ruby. Wild, high-toned, slightly funky aromas of black raspberry, truffle, herbs and mocha. Sweet and a bit truffley on the palate. Ultimately a bit drier than the Stagecoach Vineyard example, with dusty tannins that are not quite as well supported by mid-palate ripeness of fruit. More sweetness emerges with air, though.Vinous Media | 90 VM

Tasted from a bottle under screwcap, the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (containing a 6% dollop of Petit Verdot) is a total Napa rock star Cabernet, sporting an inky purple-black color and a gregarious cassis, crushed blackberries and mulberries nose with hints of incense, dusty earth and menthol, plus a waft of lilacs. Big, bold, buxom and voluptuous, it is very full, perfectly ripe and incredibly seductive in the mouth, with lovely fine-grained tannins and plenty of freshness to support, going into an epically long, spicy finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RPThe 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is another world class 2015 that’s pure perfection in a glass. A blend of 94% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Petit Verdot, bottled under screwcap, it sports a vibrant purple/blue color to go with to-die-for notes of crème de cassis, blueberries, vanilla bean, liquid violets, exotic spices and graphite. Deep, full-bodied, gorgeously concentrated and with a purity of fruit that’s truly spectacular, it expands on the palate and carries incredible richness and depth, yet stays weightless, seamless, and ethereal. It’s as spectacular as it gets and is going to keep for 4-5 decades. Bravo!Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDThe 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is another tremendous wine from Plumpjack and winemaker Aaron Miller. Here the flavors are rich and sepia-toned, with plenty of dark berry, plum, licorice and menthol overtones. A dramatic, ample wine, the 2015 Reserve captures all the textural intensity and resonance that makes wines from this sector of Oakville so alluring. Winemaker Aaron Miller uses a slightly different mix of coopers for the Reserve, including more barrels from Darnajou, which are renowned for their ability to push the sweetness of Cabernet Sauvignon to the forefront. What a gorgeous wine this is.Vinous Media | 98 VMGorgeous aromas of blackberries and lead pencil. Crushed stones, too. Full-bodied, yet polished and refined with pretty fine tannins. A persistent and fruity finish. This shows reserve, focus and brightness. A little high octane but stays together. Drink or hold. Screw cap.James Suckling | 92 JS

The 2015 Screaming Eagle is another monumental wine from this address, and it's one of those cases where if you afford it, you should buy it. A blend of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc, this magical elixir boasts a deep purple color as well as a blockbuster bouquet of blueberries, creme de cassis, violets, incense, and cedarwood. Reminding me of the 2015 Château Margaux with its off the charts class and purity, it’s full-bodied, thrillingly textured, and has a finish that just won't quit. This legendary wine is going to keep for 30-40 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDThis is a phenomenal wine on the nose with amazing aromas of mint and sage, highlighting the blackberry and slate character. Blackcurrants and wet earth. Medium to full body with incredible precision and beauty. It rolls off the palate with super fine tannins. Savory and juicy. The minerality and pureness draw you into it. A precise and sophisticated Screaming Eagle that brings you in. So drinkable now but better in 2022.James Suckling | 100 JSComposed of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc, the very deep purple-black colored 2015 Screaming Eagle leaps from the glass with notes of freshly crushed black currants, black cherries and blackberries with suggestions of cigar box, black raspberries, red currants, chocolates, pencil lead and cast-iron pan plus a touch of potpourri. Medium to full-bodied with a rock-solid backbone of ripe, grainy tannins and oodles of freshness, it features the most incredible black and red fruit layers and finishes with incredible vibrancy and depth.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RPThe 2015 Screaming Eagle is fabulous. Rich and ample on the palate, with soaring aromatics from the Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2015 is a drop-dead gorgeous beauty. Ripe red plum, pomegranate, mint, kirsch, lavender and sweet spice notes are beautifully delineated in the glass. In this tasting, the Cabernet-based Screaming Eagle is quite a bit more open and accessible than the Merlot-based The Flight. Even so, it will be years before the 2015 Screaming Eagle is ready to drink.Vinous Media | 98 VMNotable for the focus on dark berry, licorice, plum and light oak notes, this is solid throughout, fanning out to capture a range of flavors. Texturally smooth until the finish, where the tannins grip. Best from 2021 through 2030. 500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS