California Classics

wines

Two of the most impressive wines in these tastings, both of Dunn’s 1986s tasted like 3-4-year old Cabernets rather than 10-year old adolescents. The opaque purple-colored 1986 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain offers awesome richness, mindboggling intensity, huge tannin, a massive mouthfeel, and a closed yet formidably long, well-endowed finish. This wine could be put in a tasting of 1994 California Cabernets and not stand out as a 10-year old wine. Give it another 5-7 years of cellaring and drink it over the subsequent 25-30 years ... amazing!Robert Parker | 95 RPFull medium red with a faint hint of amber. Aromas of dark cherry, menthol and mint show a slightly medicinal cough medicine quality; very Médoc in style. Then surprisingly supple and fine-grained, offering terrific inner-mouth energy and acidity to shape and freshen its intense dark raspberry and menthol flavors. This wine is fully mature but still full of life, displaying plenty of tobacco and savory spices but also superb remaining fruit and floral lift. For a bone-dry wine, it delivers captivating fruit sweetness that perfectly supports its firm tannins. An excellent showing--and not as dry as the ’83 or ’84. (13% alcohol)Vinous Media | 92 VM

1990 was the first vintage (4,756 cases produced) and one of the most abundant before the replanting became essential because of phylloxera, and was again made at Robert Pepi. However, the percentage of Cabernet Franc jumped to 10% in the final blend. Mia Klein, who worked with Tony Soter, was part of the winemaking team. This wine performed beautifully, and had that Château Margaux-like finesse, elegance and richness. Beautiful blackcurrant notes, graphite, rose petal and licorice, were all present in this deep ruby/plum-colored wine that came across like a Napa version of a first-growth Médoc. It is medium to full-bodied, with beautiful, integrated tannin, acidity and wood. This should continue to drink well for another 10-15-plus years.Robert Parker | 95 RPStill young and firm, this delivers spicy plum and chocolate flavors; it’s polished, balanced and intense. Approachable now.--Spottswoode vertical. Best after 2000. 4,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

The 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain reveals an opaque black color, huge tannin, terrific purity, and density, a broad, heavyweight mouthfeel, and gobs of ripe tannin. It is a massive Cabernet Sauvignon that requires a decade of cellaring - at the minimum. The last three vintages (1993, 1994 and 1995) offer fabulous promise. They are black/purple-colored wines, with similar levels of sweet, cassis, mineral-tinged fruit, full body, and blockbuster levels of extract and tannin. Both the 1994s and 1995s are still in barrel. What I tasted represented what Randy Dunn believed would be the final blend. This is one winery where the 1995s may turn out to be a point or two superior to the 1994s. The 1995's super-sweet richness is even more intense than the fabulous concentration and extract of the 1994s. This is also another producer who turned out outstanding 1993s, a vintage that has received some unjustifiably tough press from West Coast wine critics.Robert Parker | 95 RPThe 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain is an excellent choice for drinking over the next decade or so, as it appears to be more of a mid-weight vintage for Dunn. Open and expressive today, the 1993 is a wine of balance and proportion. Sweet tobacco, anise and spice notes inform the close.Vinous Media | 93 VMEarthy, reductive aromas of anise, tar, mineral and currant lead to similar flavors that are intense, with firm, leather-scented tannins. Supple for a young Dunn Howell Mountain.--1993 California Cabernet retrospective. Drink now through 2007. 1,670 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

The 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain is similar in all respects to the Napa Valley, but somewhat heavier in the mouth, with an aggressive tannic bite, and more length. It possesses mineral-tinged blackberry and cassis fruit, massive body, and extraordinary purity and length. It should not be touched for 12-15 years. It will undoubtedly live through the first half of the next century.Robert Parker | 96 RP(13.0% alcohol): Dark red-ruby. Sauvage nose combines dark berries, licorice, mushroom, compost, mocha and minerals. A wine of superb intensity and energy, even if it lacks the flesh of the best vintages here. Not a particularly sweet style, in part due to the wine’s penetrating acidity. Finishes a bit dry, with big tannins and a lingering leathery quality. This wine struck me as even tighter than the 2004 Howell Mountain bottle I tasted a year ago.Vinous Media | 91 VM

The 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain is silky, racy and beautifully balanced...Dark, red-toned fruit, blood orange, spice, dried flowers and herbs saturate the palate. This is an especially ripe, dense wine from Dunn, and yet all the elements are so well balanced, so integrated. Huge tannins suggest a long life. I admire the interplay of intense fruit and vibrant mountain energy. This is an especially strong showing from the 2002." Drink: 2022-2042.Vinous Media | 97 VMNotably elegant and refined, this shows good density. The core of mixed flavors includes dried currant, savory herb, cedar and mineral. Firm in body and tannins, ending with a cigar box-cedar-tobacco allure.--2002 California Cabernet blind retrospective (May 2012). Drink now through 2018. 4,600 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

Potentially a candidate for perfection, the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon is the finest Bryant Family wine since the aforementioned 1997. Striking aromas and flavors of blackberries, blueberries, flowers, smoke, truffles, and sweet berries lead to a wine with profound concentration, a silky, layered mouthfeel, perfect integration of tannin and wood, and remarkable depth, intensity, and balance. The finish lasts nearly a minute. This stunning Cabernet should age nicely for 20-30 years.Robert Parker | 98 RPA very opulent, yet fresh nose. Perfumed with fresh mushrooms, currants, and blackberries. Full bodied with an amazing density of fruit, and ripe velvety tannins. So big and compacted, with a superb structure. Very 2006 in style but with much more intensity. The fruit amazing and intense. Leave this for another five or six years. 900 cases. Pull the cork after 2016. 15+25+24+34. Find the wineJames Suckling | 98 JSAt points rustic and rough-hewn, but also enormously complex and layered, with dense, elegant herb, olive, cedar, blackberry and wild berry fruit that is full-blown and tightly focused, rich and layered, gaining velocity on the finish while retaining a sense of wildness. Best from 2012 through 2024. 850 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WS(14.9%): Healthy ruby-red. Wild plum, dark berries, musky espresso, mocha and graphite on the varietally expressive nose. Shows wonderful mineral verve but this utterly seamless wine still conveys a musky suggestion of reduction. It’s also more red than black fruit in style and shows its site more than the vintage character. Really lovely inner-mouth aromatic perfume here. Finishes with fine-grained tannins and lovely slowly building lift. This wine blew away many of the portier, clunkier examples in my 2007 group tastings but it may need earlier drinking than some vintages of Bryant. The silky, seamless finish features a light touch and terrific spice and mocha lift.Vinous Media | 95 VM

This is my favourite of the famous Colgin reds in this vintage. It’s incredibly aromatic and perfumed, full- bodied and harmonious. Loads of violet and lavender character. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 98 JSDeep red-ruby. Sappy aromas of black raspberry, blackberry, mocha and cracked pepper. Incredibly vivid and high-pitched on the palate, with the vibrant dark berry flavors complicated by orange peel, espresso and pungent minerality. Conveys an impression of great density without weight. Best today on the inexorable, slowly mounting finish, which finishes with substantial but utterly refined tannins and great lift and length. Stunning already but it would be a shame not to allow this beauty to express itself more fully, as it has the size, balance and acidity to support a long and graceful evolution in bottle. I underrated this wine in the early going.Vinous Media | 97 VMThe 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Tychson Hill is virtually all Cabernet Sauvignon except for tiny dollops of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. It offers up gorgeous aromas of lavender, creme de cassis, violets, toast, incense and camphor. Layered, full-bodied and rich with great purity, focus and symmetry, this stunning effort from one of the tenderloin corridors of Napa Valley can be drunk early on or cellared for another 25-30 years.There are a lot of magnificent estates with Shangri-La-like beauty spread throughout California, and the Colgin property is in the top ten list for spectacular views as well as top quality. Sitting atop Pritchard Hill with stunning views of Lake Hennessey and the surrounding mountains, their IX Estate Vineyard is on a steep, intimidating hillside. It is one of the must-see attractions in Northern California, if not the entire state. The longstanding winemaking team of Ann Colgin, Allison Tauziet and Bordeaux consultant Dr. Alain Raynaud has produced some magnificent wines over the years (the 2001s, 2002s, 2005s, 2007s and 2008s) as well as amazing efforts in 2009, 2010 and 2012. There are three Bordeaux blend offerings, one from their Tychson Hill estate vineyard off Highway 29, north of St. Helena, and the second, the IX Estate blend. The Cariad is fashioned from a blend of grapes purchased from a number of David Abreu-s well-known and highly respected vineyards. There is also a fourth wine, the IX Estate Syrah, which is often a dead-ringer for a great Northern Rhone. In 2010, March and early April were very cold, but normal conditions persisted over the summer with no heat spikes, and September and October were ideally warm. The results include some spectacular wines that are among the finest I have ever tasted from Colgin. The 2011s were the result of a Draconian-like sorting procedure in both the vineyard and the winery, and significant bleeding of the tanks to concentrate the wines. The wines have turned out well, although as I might expect they are lighter and less significant than the other vintages reviewed. 2012 promises to be a spectacular vintage. This was a big as well as ripe crop (without over-ripeness), and the growing conditions were nearly ideal. In the past, I have underrated Colgin-s Syrahs only to have them in blind tastings later and be blown away by just how profound they are. They are completely different from any other California Syrahs and have an affinity to some of the great 100% single vineyard Syrahs from Michel Chapoutier and the up-and-coming firm of Delas.Robert Parker | 96 RPVery firm and tannic, yet with a pleasingly dense and richly flavored core of dark berry, mineral, graphite and licorice. Unfolds slowly, ending with a dash of espresso and mocha. Needs time. Best from 2015 through 2025. 370 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Amazing aromas of blackberries, blueberries, mushrooms and violets. Full body with a dense, precise palate and a firm, intense finish. Masculine but formed and polished. This needs at least four or five years to come even more together.James Suckling | 97 JS(picked on November 1): Red-ruby color, the darkest of these 2011s. Dark berries, coffee and licorice on the nose, with a sexy animal character adding interest. Less sweet than the Lotus but with noteworthy finesse of texture to the flavors of blue fruits, menthol and dark spices. Very pure and laid-back today, finishing with sneaky length. The tannins seem much more successfully integrated with the wine’s fruit than they appeared to be in barrel a year ago. Winemaker Cameron Vawter noted that the 2011s were racked only after the malolactic fermentations and again for the blending.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Hershey Vineyard, which comes from a site on Howell Mountain, is still youthful, with a dense plum color as well as a powerful, masculine nose of blackcurrants, chocolate, graphite, and scorched earth. It stays tight, compact, and structured on the palate, with lots of tannins, and it remains to be seen if there’s enough fruit to handle all the structure. At the end of the day, I think it does. Give bottles another 3-4 years and it should keep for another decade.Jeb Dunnuck | 92 JDThe fruit for the 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Hershey Vineyard was picked on November 2, and it is certainly one of the stars of the vintage, reflecting the success Howell Mountain enjoyed in this vintage. It possesses excellent ripeness along with mulberry, blueberry and black raspberry fruit intermixed with hints of wet rock and graphite. Ripe, lush and medium to full-bodied with sweet tannin, this beauty, because of the precociousness and forward character of the 2011s, is best consumed over the next 10-12 years.Proprietor Hi Sang Lee has resurrected this once historic estate in Rutherford where the winery was first constructed in 1883 by H. W. Helms. There are four cuvees as of 2010, the Crystal Springs Vineyard on Howell Mountain, the Helms Vineyard in Rutherford, the Hershey Vineyard on Howell Mountain and the Lotus Vineyard in Napa Valley. They also produce a wine called Onda, which is meant to be a more forward styled, lower priced effort. Kudos to Hi Sang Lee and his son for resurrecting this historic estate.Robert Parker | 90-92 RPA rich, powerful expression of dense loamy earth, tobacco, black licorice, mineral and dark berry flavors. This never lets up, framed by persistent, gutsy tannins. Drink now through 2022. 304 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Extraordinary aromas of metal shavings, black currants and hazelnuts. Turns to roses and violets. Full-bodied, yet subtle and refined with a polished piercing tannin backbone. This makes you want to drink it. Sexy and elegant. A triumph. Try in 2019 but hard not to drink now. September release.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Helms Vineyard, which is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Rutherford AVA, has a dense black cherry and blackcurrant-scented nose with graphite and forest floor notes, beautiful purity, full-bodied mouthfeel and super-richness and power, but elegant and complex. This is classic Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon and should age beautifully for 20-25 years.Robert Parker | 96 RPDana’s 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Helms Vineyard possesses remarkable structure and density, especially within the context of the year. Firm yet well-integrated tannins give the wine much of its energy, tension and focus. Black cherry jam, graphite, smoke and tobacco add nuance as the wine opens up in the glass. Far from an easygoing 2012, the Helms is going to need time to fully come together. There is so much to look forward to here. This is the first vintage since 2008 that was vinified in wood uprights, as was originally intended. The intervening vintages have been much shorter, so they were done in barrel. The 2012 impresses for its balance of fruit, acidity and tannin.Vinous Media | 96 VMDense and pleasantly earthy, with an edge of loamy earth and crushed rock minerality cutting through the core of currant, blackberry and mocha before the dense, earthy tannins fold in. The finish is long and engaging. Drink now through 2030. 284 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Estate Oakville is 96% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Petit Verdot aged in 100% new French oak. This is perfection and an absolutely amazing effort. The wine is dense purple with sweet tannin, oodles of blueberry and blackberry fruit caressed by toasty new oak, and a full-bodied multi-dimensional mouthfeel -- akin to a skyscraper in the mouth, but without any heaviness. The finish goes on for a good 45+ seconds, and the wine is super-pure and majestic. Truly a tour de force in Cabernet Sauvignon. Kudos to Plumpjack. Drink 2018-2040.Robert Parker | 100 RPA dark, sumptuous wine, the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is a total knock-out. Crème de cassis, blueberry jam, new leather, espresso and cedar flesh out effortlessly. The Reserve captures all the magic of this fabled corner of Oakville, where the wines boast texture, nuance and volume, but with no sense of heaviness. A prototypical modern Napa Valley Cabernet, the 2013 Reserve hits all the right notes.Antonio Galloni | 96 AGA wine of considerable size and proportion, this is very dense, rich and focused, with an intense beam of lively, gravel-laced currant, blackberry, anise, sage and cedar flavors. Though the size of the wine merits cellar time, there’s a beauty within. Best from 2020 through 2033. 700 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

A blend of 94% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Petit Verdot, the deep purple-black colored 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve hits the ground running with the most stunning perfume of crushed black cherries, violets, dark chocolate, licorice and blueberry pie, going on to reveal subtle nuances of cinnamon toast, hoisin, menthol and fragrant underbrush. Full-bodied and oh-so-generously fruited in the mouth, the rich, decadent palate is beautifully lifted with fantastic freshness and powered by super ripe, silt-like tannins, finishing with layer upon layer of long-lingering floral, spice and vibrant berry notes. If "Plumpjack awesome" isn’t a phrase to describe the ultimate in deliciousness, it should be.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RPBottled under screw cap, the 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is certainly a worthy follow-up to the monumental 2015. As pure, seamless, and classy as it gets, with heavenly notes of crème de cassis, white flowers, lead pencil shavings, graphite, and damp rock-like minerality, this beauty hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a layered, multi-dimensional texture, no hard edges, and spectacular length. This is another monumental wine from this team that needs to be tasted to be believed.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDThe 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is expressive and sensual to the core. The Reserve possesses tons of textural richness and resonance in every dimension. Inky dark fruit, bittersweet chocolate, cloves, new leather and licorice are pushed forward. The 2016 is seamless, creamy and exotic, all of which add to its tremendous immediacy and overall appeal.Vinous Media | 97 VM