California Cults

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There are 6,500 cases of the superb 2006 Dominus (91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot). Its dark plum/purple color is accompanied by aromas and flavors of truffles, forest floor, black cherries, black currants, and Asian spices. One of the finest wines of the vintage, it is complete, full-bodied, and seamlessly built with beautiful ripe tannins, low acidity, and a luscious, layered mouthfeel. The aromatics are even more evolved and complex than the 2005’s. The 2006 should drink well for 20-25 years.Christian Moueix, Dominus’ owner, has purchased the 35-acre Swanson Vineyard, which is situated between the well-known California bistros, Brix and Mustard’s. I suspect that will result in a third label from Dominus. At present, the production from these large holdings in Yountville is approximately 10,000-12,000 cases, with the second wine, Napanook, representing 3,500-4,000 cases, depending on the vintage. It is ironic that Christian Moueix, the great Merlot specialist at his flagship chateaux in Pomerol, especially Petrus, prefers the other Bordeaux varietals at his Napa property. Interestingly, when I visit Dominus, they always open a fresh bottle and serve it alongside a bottle that has been decanted for 24 hours. On each occasion, the more complex, open wine is the one that has had 24 hours of aeration, something buyers of this wine should take into consideration. These are the two strongest back to back vintages for Dominus since 1990-1991 and 2001-2002.Robert Parker | 96 RPStarting to take on the tertiary character of ripe fruit and savory components with dusty tannins. Full and round with a lovely texture and a light salty, meaty and tobacco character. Forest floor. Sweet and sour. Just opening.James Suckling | 96 JSBright red-ruby. Lovely floral lift contributes precision to the aromas of raspberry, rose petal and licorice. Sweet, high-pitched and sharply delineated; velvety but not thick. There’s a juicy quality to the ripe red fruit, mineral and graphite flavors, not to mention a firm underlying spine, that promises a long and positive evolution in bottle. Quite young but not austere, finishing with building tannins and lovely lift. The lingering perfume of red fruits, pepper, flowers and licorice is unusually complex. A really superb 2006, seemingly every bit as good as the sensational 2005.Vinous Media | 94+ VMUnless you knew that this was Dominus and had tasted older vintages, you might not be impressed. In its youth the wine is tannic and dry and linear. However, it is Dominus and it does need cellaring. Right now it shows blackberry, black currant, cedar and baker’s chocolate flavors. Will slowly open and reach maturity after 2011, and could easily develop for far longer.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEYouthfully floral and tight, this vintage of Dominus is a big wine that holds all of its weight behind a powerful structure. And it’s the power of that structure that is front and center-red apple-skin acidity and walnut-skin tannin-needing a ribeye with plenty of fat to bring the fruit out of its cage. Stay with it and the wine’s earthiness begins to meld with the blueberry and chocolate richness. But it’s all completely primary. Put this away for ten years, and drink the Napanook while it matures.Wine & Spirits | 93 W&S

Medium garnet in color with a hint of purple, the 2007 Maya Proprietary Red Wine possesses the most alluring nose of blueberry compote, Black Forest cake, crème de cassis, licorice and espresso with suggestions of truffles, beef drippings, dried sage and forest floor. Powerful, rich and substantial on the palate, it explodes with profound black fruits and earthy layers with a rock-solid frame of ripe, grainy tannins and just enough freshness, finishing long.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2007 Maya is deep garnet-brick in color. Notes of blackberry pie, creme de cassis, and black cherry preserves pop from the glass, followed by hints of cinnamon toast, red roses, and fallen leaves. The full-bodied palate is packed with bold black fruit layers, supported by plush, beautifully ripe tannins and bags of freshness, finishing long and opulent. Andy Erickson started here in January 2007 and it was also the first year of organic farming.The Wine Independent | 97 TWIWhat a difference a year makes. The 2007 Maya is a drop-dead gorgeous beauty. Sexy and racy to the core, the 2007 captures the sensuality of the year in spades. Raspberry jam, white flowers, mint and spices are nicely shaped by silky tannins. Production was tiny, at around 270 cases, partly because 2007 is the vintage in which Dalla Valle introduced their second wine, Collina Dalla Valle. It’s great to see Maya back on track after the less than stellar 2006.Vinous Media | 96 VMShows a juicy side to the loamy earth, tobacco, cedar and tar flavors. Complex and layered, if starting to show signs of age and a drying edge. The initial burst of fruit is captivating. -- Blind 1997/2007 California Cabernet retrospective (January 2017). Drink now. 300 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Deep garnet colored, the 2007 Ancient Way Vineyard Summer’s Vineyard sings of preserved plums, Christmas pudding, figs and incense with suggestions of spice cake, licorice and Morello cherries plus a waft of tobacco. Rich, spicy and full-bodied in the mouth, it offers an alluring texture of soft, rounded tannins and just enough freshness, finishing very long and with loads of savory nuances coming through.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPInky purple. Superripe aromas of cassis, cherry preserves and dark chocolate, with complicating notes of licorice and mint. Densely packed and chewy, offering palate-coating black and blue fruit flavors that show serious depth and building sweetness. A hint of smoked meat comes up on the long, clinging finish, which is framed by broad, pliant tannins. I’m not exactly sure what I’d serve with this but it would definitely have to be part of a dead mammal and it would be roasted, braised or grilled.Vinous Media | 93 VMMeaty flavors step forward in this rich, decadent Shiraz, piling savory soy sauce and wet earth nuances around the core of dark, dense blackberry. Shows depth and power. Drink now through 2017. 500 cases made, 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Deep Time has a medium garnet color and sings of Indian spices, baked plums and crème de cassis with forest floor, black truffles and iron ore accents plus a waft of potpourri. The full-bodied palate delivers a firm yet plushly textured foundation to support the generous black and blue fruit preserves flavors with bags of earthy nuances and a very long finish. The sensuous mouthfeel on this wine, in particular, is to be commended!Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Deep Time is gorgeous. The personality of the vintage is very well suited to the extended time in barrel (40-50 months) Woodbridge gives this wine. All the elements are in the right place. Rich, dark and sumptuous, the 2007 is totally seamless on the palate, yet at the same time, there is more than enough support from the tannins. This is yet another compelling, totally beguiling wine from Jayson Woodbridge.Vinous Media | 96 VM

Potentially a candidate for perfection, the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon is the finest Bryant Family wine since the aforementioned 1997. Striking aromas and flavors of blackberries, blueberries, flowers, smoke, truffles, and sweet berries lead to a wine with profound concentration, a silky, layered mouthfeel, perfect integration of tannin and wood, and remarkable depth, intensity, and balance. The finish lasts nearly a minute. This stunning Cabernet should age nicely for 20-30 years.Robert Parker | 98 RPA very opulent, yet fresh nose. Perfumed with fresh mushrooms, currants, and blackberries. Full bodied with an amazing density of fruit, and ripe velvety tannins. So big and compacted, with a superb structure. Very 2006 in style but with much more intensity. The fruit amazing and intense. Leave this for another five or six years. 900 cases. Pull the cork after 2016. 15+25+24+34. Find the wineJames Suckling | 98 JSAt points rustic and rough-hewn, but also enormously complex and layered, with dense, elegant herb, olive, cedar, blackberry and wild berry fruit that is full-blown and tightly focused, rich and layered, gaining velocity on the finish while retaining a sense of wildness. Best from 2012 through 2024. 850 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WS(14.9%): Healthy ruby-red. Wild plum, dark berries, musky espresso, mocha and graphite on the varietally expressive nose. Shows wonderful mineral verve but this utterly seamless wine still conveys a musky suggestion of reduction. It’s also more red than black fruit in style and shows its site more than the vintage character. Really lovely inner-mouth aromatic perfume here. Finishes with fine-grained tannins and lovely slowly building lift. This wine blew away many of the portier, clunkier examples in my 2007 group tastings but it may need earlier drinking than some vintages of Bryant. The silky, seamless finish features a light touch and terrific spice and mocha lift.Vinous Media | 95 VM

This shows so much dark fruit, spice, berry and minerals incense. Full body, with lots of black pepper, spice and berry. It’s so dense and beautiful. The purity of fruit is all there. Hard not to drink now. But will improve for many years ahead.James Suckling | 97 JSBright, saturated medium ruby. Youthful but already highly expressive high-pitched perfume of blackberry, violet, licorice, crushed rock and honeysuckle. Savory, sappy, thick and fine-grained, delivering uncommon depth of texture and a strong umami character to its sweet/salty dark fruit and meat flavors. This wine stands out for its restraint today but it’s much easier to taste than it was shortly after being bottled, and there’s still a lot to come. Finishes classically dry and very long, with wonderfully suave, integrated tannins and mouthfilling perfume.Vinous Media | 96 VMI could have sworn the 2009 IX Estate Syrah had some Viognier in it, but all of these wines are 100% Syrah. Flowery, peppery, blackberry and bacon aromas reminiscent of a Cote Rotie jump from the glass. However, once in the mouth, the masculinity, power, awesome richness and incredible texture come forward. This killer Syrah should drink well for 20 or more years.Robert Parker | 95 RPA brilliant expression of dense, rich layers of spice, beef, wild berry, savory and herbal notes, offering intensity, focus, grace and finesse. Should evolve beautifully over the next decade or two. Drink now through 2030. 420 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

Phenomenal aromas and flavors of pure fruit with stones and rock. Turns to mint and eucalyptus. Full body, with powerful yet polished tannins. Creamy and fresh. Changes continually. The finish goes on for minutes Savory. And juicy.James Suckling | 99 JSComposed of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot, the 2009 IX Estate exhibits a flowery bouquet with notes of subtle smoke, blackberries, black currants, kirsch and baking spices. Rich, deep and full-bodied, this voluptuous, sensational blend boasts an inky/purple color. While approachable, it should hit its stride in 4-5 years and last for two to three decades.Robert Parker | 97 RPThe 2009 IX Estate is deep garnet in color. It needs a swirl or two to bring out notes of creme de cassis, chocolate-covered cherries, and blueberry preserves, followed by suggestions of cigar box, graphite, red loam, and tapenade. The palate is rich, full-bodied, and wonderfully bold, with bright, slow-maturing black fruits and firm, ripe grainy tannins, finishing long with saline and gentle herbal layers.The Wine Independent | 97 TWIFull, deep ruby. Deep aromas of dark fruits, spices, smoky oak and flowers, plus a whiff of game. Utterly plush and mouthfilling but not at all heavy, showing serious thickness and high-altitude density to its sweet blue and black fruit, spice and chocolate flavors. And yet this wine’s floral element gives it an almost light touch, if that’s possible. Some subtle soil tones reminded me of the outstanding Syrah from this site on Pritchard Hill. Finishes with substantial but noble tannins and terrific length.Vinous Media | 96 VMA muscle-bound effort, tight, dense and chewy, with tar, blackberry, cedar and tobacco flavors. Ends with a pleasant wall of tannins and a persistent push of flavors. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2014 through 2030. 1,300 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

This is my favourite of the famous Colgin reds in this vintage. It’s incredibly aromatic and perfumed, full- bodied and harmonious. Loads of violet and lavender character. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 98 JSDeep red-ruby. Sappy aromas of black raspberry, blackberry, mocha and cracked pepper. Incredibly vivid and high-pitched on the palate, with the vibrant dark berry flavors complicated by orange peel, espresso and pungent minerality. Conveys an impression of great density without weight. Best today on the inexorable, slowly mounting finish, which finishes with substantial but utterly refined tannins and great lift and length. Stunning already but it would be a shame not to allow this beauty to express itself more fully, as it has the size, balance and acidity to support a long and graceful evolution in bottle. I underrated this wine in the early going.Vinous Media | 97 VMThe 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Tychson Hill is virtually all Cabernet Sauvignon except for tiny dollops of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. It offers up gorgeous aromas of lavender, creme de cassis, violets, toast, incense and camphor. Layered, full-bodied and rich with great purity, focus and symmetry, this stunning effort from one of the tenderloin corridors of Napa Valley can be drunk early on or cellared for another 25-30 years.There are a lot of magnificent estates with Shangri-La-like beauty spread throughout California, and the Colgin property is in the top ten list for spectacular views as well as top quality. Sitting atop Pritchard Hill with stunning views of Lake Hennessey and the surrounding mountains, their IX Estate Vineyard is on a steep, intimidating hillside. It is one of the must-see attractions in Northern California, if not the entire state. The longstanding winemaking team of Ann Colgin, Allison Tauziet and Bordeaux consultant Dr. Alain Raynaud has produced some magnificent wines over the years (the 2001s, 2002s, 2005s, 2007s and 2008s) as well as amazing efforts in 2009, 2010 and 2012. There are three Bordeaux blend offerings, one from their Tychson Hill estate vineyard off Highway 29, north of St. Helena, and the second, the IX Estate blend. The Cariad is fashioned from a blend of grapes purchased from a number of David Abreu-s well-known and highly respected vineyards. There is also a fourth wine, the IX Estate Syrah, which is often a dead-ringer for a great Northern Rhone. In 2010, March and early April were very cold, but normal conditions persisted over the summer with no heat spikes, and September and October were ideally warm. The results include some spectacular wines that are among the finest I have ever tasted from Colgin. The 2011s were the result of a Draconian-like sorting procedure in both the vineyard and the winery, and significant bleeding of the tanks to concentrate the wines. The wines have turned out well, although as I might expect they are lighter and less significant than the other vintages reviewed. 2012 promises to be a spectacular vintage. This was a big as well as ripe crop (without over-ripeness), and the growing conditions were nearly ideal. In the past, I have underrated Colgin-s Syrahs only to have them in blind tastings later and be blown away by just how profound they are. They are completely different from any other California Syrahs and have an affinity to some of the great 100% single vineyard Syrahs from Michel Chapoutier and the up-and-coming firm of Delas.Robert Parker | 96 RPVery firm and tannic, yet with a pleasingly dense and richly flavored core of dark berry, mineral, graphite and licorice. Unfolds slowly, ending with a dash of espresso and mocha. Needs time. Best from 2015 through 2025. 370 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Tychson Hill is an absolutely profound wine, dense, bluish purple color to the rim with a stunning nose of acacia flowers, graphite, blueberry and blackcurrant fruit. The wine is full-bodied and displays a multi-dimensional, skyscraper-like mouthfeel with no sense of heaviness or weight. An incredibly pure, rich, gorgeously constructed wine from a fabulous terroir, this is a stunner to drink now and over the next 30+ years.Robert Parker | 100 RPAromas of black fruits, hay, hazelnut and chocolate that move to wet earth and mushroom, then flowers. Sous bois too. Full-bodied, yet caressing and polished. Velvety texture. Flavorful. Toasted and juicy with a violet undertone. Weightlessness in the wine despite being dense. Out March 2016.James Suckling | 96 JSDeep, full ruby. Compelling sweetness to the aromas of black raspberry, licorice and minerals. Plush, layered and deep, boasting outstanding volume and inner-mouth perfume to the glossy flavors of dark berries, flowers, ginger and earth. This has all the elements for Cabernet greatness, dialed up to higher setting, and yet today it’s hiding more than it’s showing even if it already saturates every square millimeter of the palate with flavor. Finishes with huge but utterly sweet tannins and outstanding lingering perfume. A knockout for the vintage, boasting great density and aromatic character.Vinous Media | 96+ VMExhibits a gravelly, crushed rock dustiness woven through the chunky dark berry, dried herb and savory flavors. Complex aromas of cedar, fresh-cut flowers and anise are the initial lure. More trim than opulent on the palate, most impressive on the long finish. Drink now through 2024. 390 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Ark Vineyard sports a deep garnet color and rocks up with a ready-to-party nose of blackcurrant cordial, blueberry pie and freshly baked plums. And yet it also possesses a seriously savory undercurrent of tapenade, chargrill, rosemary-roasted lamb and fried Indian spices plus a waft of fragrant earth. The full-bodied palate has an evocative earthiness interlacing the opulent black fruit preserves with firm, velvety shoulders to support all that generous fruit flesh along with seamless freshness, finishing very long and savory. Truly stunning.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RPA deliciously pure and juicy style, capturing the currant and blackberry essence of Cabernet in a supple, graceful manner. Texturally harmonious, with just the right amount of sage details and dusty, earth-laced tannins. Ends on a tart note. Drink now through 2027. 1,100 cases made.Wine SpectatorWine Spectator | 93 WS

Medium garnet in color, the 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Kayli Morgan Vineyard opens with the most beautiful red roses and lilacs scents with red and black cherry compote and hints of cinnamon stick, earth, stewed tea, cigar box and forest floor. The palate is full-bodied, rich and seductive with incredibly perfumed fruit and a satiny texture, finishing very long.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 99 RP(15.5% alcohol): Bright ruby-red. Black cherry, cassis, raspberry, dark chocolate and licorice pastille on the nose, accented by dusty herbs. Boasts great depth to its intense, dark flavors of black cherry, menthol, dried herbs, flowers and licorice pastille. A classic powerful-yet-elegant wine with great texture and finesse and no undue weight. Finishes with firm but ripe tannins and outstanding length. This will repay patience but even in the early going its suavity of texture gives it great appeal.Vinous Media | 95 VMOffers a complex array of dark berry, mocha, dried herb and toasty, mocha-scented oak, framed by dusty, earth-laced tannins. Ends with a long, full finish that echoes notes of black licorice and dried flowers. Drink now through 2029. 900 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Mind-blowing aromas of dark fruits, forest flower, pine needles and Asian mushroom. Black olives too. Full body and very fine tannins, elegant and refined. It goes on for minutes. Breathtaking. Burgundian in uniqueness and texture. Perfect now. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 99 JSAs is the case with most top 2012s, the 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon from Bryant Family is drinking brilliantly today. This incredible wine will stop anyone who loves Cabernet in their tracks. A dense purple color is followed by gorgeous red, blue, and black fruits, and it has wonderful complexity in its spring flowers, violets, forest floor, and spice-driven aromas and flavors. Showing subtle background oak, full-bodied richness, and sweet tannins, this flawlessly balanced, heavenly Napa Cabernet can be drunk any time over the coming 20-30 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDBryant’s flagship wine, the 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon from the estate vineyard on Pritchard Hill offers a rare but magnificent forest floor/floral aromatic profile with lavishly rich, ripe notes of crème de cassis, blueberry and black raspberry liqueur. Fleshy, opulent, full-bodied and multidimensional, it conceals some significant tannins behind its wealth of extract and fruit. From a first-growth quality, hillside vineyard (13 acres), this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is gorgeously pure as well as impeccably well-balanced with a seamless integration of tannin, acidity, alcohol and wood. In fact, the new oak component, which is significant, is largely obliterated by the wine’s stunning fruit. This majestic Cabernet Sauvignon should age effortlessly for 25-30 years.Robert Parker | 98 RPGood dark red with ruby tones. Very ripe aromas of currant, cherry, spices, sage and graphite. Wonderfully sweet, silky wine with a chocolatey aspect to its liqueur-like dark fruit flavors. This plush young Cabernet struck me as remarkably accessible following the '10 and '11 vintages but it will need time in bottle to lose some of its baby fat and gain in nuance. Finishes very long and a touch warm, with a sizable tannic structure to support at least mid-term aging.Vinous Media | 94 VMRustic and pleasantly chewy, this offers a rich, extracted core of dusty currant and blackberry flavors, ending with a stream of gravel, anise, tar and cedar notes. Drink now through 2028. 1,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS