California Wines

wines

Bright red cherries, cranberry, spices, mint, hard candy and anise all jump from the glass in the 2011 Pinot Noir de Villiers Vineyard. Hints of crushed flowers and tobacco follow, adding lift, inner perfume and a sense of sweetness. The de Villiers is the most open and radiant of these 2011s today, partly because it is the only single-vineyard Pinot in the range made from fully destemmed fruit.Antonio Galloni | 90+ AGTight, with a gritty, earthy edge to the firm strawberry, dark berry, violet, spice and cedar notes, gaining depth and ending with a persistent finish. Should gain with age.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

There are just under 900 cases of the 2013 Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard, and like the de Villiers cuvee, it spent 19 months in 30% new barrels. This is a big, rich, yet still graceful Pinot Noir that’s loaded with notions of mulberries, sappy underbrush, licorice, violets and dried earth. Mouth-filling, polished, balanced and concentrated, this changed dramatically with extended airing, and where it was a touch burly on opening, the tannin sweetened up beautifully and it showed much more polish with air. Nevertheless, there’s ample tannin here and it should be given 2-3 years of cellaring. When all is said and done, this might be the finest vintage of this cuvee to date.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPA big, powerful wine, the 2013 Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard packs a serious punch. Dark, bold flavors abound, the result of a drought year that produced tiny berries. Readers will have to be patient, as the Ryan is likely to require quite a bit of time to come around. Even at this early stage, though, it is super-impressive. The 100% whole clusters are nearly buried by the sheer intensity of the fruit. Today, the Ryan is the most tannic, backward and brooding of these Pinots.Vinous Media | 95+ VMA bushel of black cherries blends with slate, bay leaf, thyme and dried lilacs on the nose of this Josh Jensen bottling, which shows an amazing amount of aging potential. The palate is wound tightly by fine-grained tannins, which are starting to give a peek at the layered flavors of cranberry, pencil lead, thyme, bay leaf, pressed violets and dried citrus that patiently await their turns to shine. Drink 2018 through 2033.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE(Calera Wine Company Pinot Noir - Ryan Vineyard Red) This is the ripest of these 2013s with its wood and menthol-inflected nose that is comprised of plum, mocha, dark fruit and spice elements. There is excellent richness and mid-palate concentration to the powerful and robust big-bodied flavors that are shaped by borderline chewy tannins on the noticeably warm and slightly wooded finish. This overtly structured effort is very definitely an example of "power pinot" and will most appeal to those who prefer size and weight to refinement. (Drink starting 2023)Burghound | 90 BH

Calera’s 2014 Pinot Noir Reed Vineyard speaks to grace above all else. Exquisitely perfumed and gracious, the Reed emphasizes aromatics and sweet red fruits. The 100% whole clusters give the wine its distinctive lifted personality and red-toned flavor profile. Intensity without weight is the signature. This is an absolutely beautiful wine in every way. A north-facing site, Reed is the last to be harvested at Calera’s Mt. Harlan site.Antonio Galloni | 95 AGThe 2014 Pinot Noir Reed Vineyard is a classic expression of this site and has the hallmark sassafras, mint, rose petal and sweet core of strawberry and raspberry fruit. It’s ethereally textured on the palate, with bright acidity balanced by plenty of fruit and texture. It never has the weight or girth of the other single vineyards, yet always shines for its complexity and vibrancy. In short, it’s a beautiful Pinot Noir that speaks to this great site.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDFrom Josh Jensen’s 4.4-acre vineyard, this bottling offers black plum and mulberry aromas laced with crushed gravel and lavender notes. There is a powerful minty character to the palate, which helps enliven the hearty ripe cranberry and hibiscus elements. A thought-provoking and earthy wine.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

The 2014 Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard is a powerful, bombastic wine with huge fruit and equally imposing tannins that demand patience. Waves of dark, deeply sketched fruit hit the palate in a virile Pinot Noir that is going to need at least several years to truly come into its own. By no means a shy wine, the Ryan also has tremendous potential. In 2014, the Ryan was done with 70% whole clusters, which is a bit lower than normal.Antonio Galloni | 95+ AGThe 2014 Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard offers a darker, Côte de Nuits style in its black cherry, mulberry, sassafras, spring flowers and violet aromatics. These give way to a rich, concentrated, spicy Pinot Noir that has beautiful mid-palate depth (as do all the 2015s), ripe tannin and focused, pure, impeccably balanced style.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDDark in color, this wine packs deep blackberry and boysenberry aromas together with violet, allspice and sandalwood. The palate is redolent of licorice and nutmeg, wrapped in an unrelenting texture that lets the black plum and lilac flavors just peek out. Time will allow this to blossom. Drink 2019–2034.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WESaturated ruby-black in hue, the 2014 Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard reveals a rich bouquet of plum preserve, cassis and asphalt, followed by an assertively firm palate that’s carrying a significant payload of stem tannin, but which also possesses a deep core of dark, crunchy fruit and concentration. If everything rounds out with time, this will be a magical wine, as its raw materials are impressive, but for now, it’s very hard to read. This was harvested between September 4-10—early by the standards of this, Calera’s highest-altitude vineyard—and cropped at a tiny yield of 0.81 tons per acre.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

Deeper ruby, the 2017 Pinot Noir De Villiers Vineyard reveals more black raspberry, sassafras, tea, and spicy notes. It’s medium-bodied, with a juicy, elegant style and a great finish.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDA juicy and powerful red with blackberries, dried strawberries, walnuts and spice undertone. Full-bodied and chewy with layers of tannins and a flavorful finish. Hints of bark and spice. Needs time to soften, but impressive. Drink after 2025, but already beautiful.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2017 Pinot Noir de Villiers Vineyard is fabulous. Rich, exotic and bold, the 2017 offers striking immediacy. Inky dark fruit, spice, lavender and menthol open up first, followed by a range of more savory, mineral notes that are typical of Mt. Harlan. The interplay of fruit intensity and structure makes for a compelling Pinot.Vinous Media | 94 VMPale to medium ruby-purple, the 2017 Pinot Noir deVilliers Vineyard, aged 17 months in 30% new French oak, gives up broody cherry coulis, underbrush, crushed stone, dried redcurrants and cranberries aromas with notions of blood orange, tea leaves and cured meats. Medium-bodied, intense and layered, it’s well framed and juicy with a long and pleasantly restrained finish. 1,382 cases produced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPDe Villiers is an east-facing site more or less in the middle of Calera’s Mt. Harlan vineyards, planted in 1997. In 2017, it produced a wine considerably more savory than most of its counterparts, with a wild berry scent and tealike accents. The fruit flavors are light and attenuated, more about perfume than flavor, marked by the tangy, mildly mineral grip of the mountain’s chalk soils.Wine & Spirits Magazine | 93 W&SWell-sculpted, with alluring sandalwood and allspice notes to the dried cherry and plum tart flavors. Savory richness emerges midpalate, leading to an extended finish that offers brioche and cream details. Drink now through 2024. 1,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WSRoasted boysenberry, crushed stone, baked earth and a slight plum-skin tang show on the nose of this bottling from vines planted in 1996. There’s a warm-weather sense on the palate, where cooked berry flavors dominate, yet the acid and rocky tension keep it complex and intenseWine Enthusiast | 92 WE

An elegant array of baked berries and creamy masala chai pull the nose deep into this single-vineyard bottling from the legendary appellation. Dark fruit flavors meet with lavender and peppery spice on the palate, which is wrapped in sticky tannins.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEHarvested at a minuscule yields from a vineyard planted in 1975, then aged 17 months in one-third new French oak. With a bit of aeration the youthful, concentrated aromas open to reveal opulent plum, spice, orange zest and pine forest accents. The palate offers juicy black cherry and more plum, mulled wine spices and powdery tannins, with crushed stone minerality and elegant cedar oak tinged with dark chocolate. There’s a distinct salinity to this wine which refreshes through the long finish. | 95 DECCalera’s oldest and most established vineyard produced its darkest pinot noir in 2018: Jensen feels lean, controlled and so full of internal tension that I wrote ‘disciplined’ in my notes. Wines can’t have discipline, can they? In this case, the structure is built around clove- and olive-scented tannins, which act like girders in the wine. With air, the tannins turn lighter, toward Christmas spices, suggesting layers of complexity and depth that one tasting can’t yet plumb. For the cellar. —P.J.C. (535 cases) Wine and Spirits Mag | 93 W&SDeceptive in its mid-weight structure, the 2015 Pinot Noir Jensen Vineyard is extremely closed to a degree I don’t think I have seen before in this wine. I imagine the 100% whole clusters have something to do with the wine’s current state of reticence. Time in the glass helps to some degree, but it is clear the Jensen needs time in bottle to be at its most expressive.Antonio Galloni | 91+ AGThis ripe red is filled with exuberant spiciness to its dark berry and plum tart flavors. Shows plenty of toastiness on the finish, with notes of chocolate-covered cherry. Drink now through 2025. 570 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

The 2018 Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard is quite deep and heady in this vintage. Red fruit, iron, white pepper and savory herbs give the Ryan its distinctly incisive, feral personality. Hints of blood orange, raspberry and spice add an exotic flair. There is plenty of character here, that is for sure.Vinous Media | 94 VMComing from vines that provided less than one ton per acre, this concentrated bottling begins with aromas of blackberry, loamy soil and a hint of violet. The palate is wrapped in chalky tannins yet remains bright with black-raspberry and elderflower flavors. Wine Enthusiast | 94 WECalera’s highest elevation vineyard on Mt. Harlan, Ryan produced a powerful wine in 2018—rich, flavorful, broad in structure—all of it delivered with a compact texture that’s a marvel of control. It leads with scents of chocolate mint, black plum and beeswax, glossy, vinous and firm, the dark fruit flavors brushing up against sage-scented mountain scrub. A big wine; all of its weight is in the right place for skirt steak.Wine & Spirits Magazine | 93 W&SRipe and well-focused, offering gently mulled loganberry and black cherry fruit, with steeped black tea, incense and savory details. This is carried by a fine chalky spine through a lengthy finish. Solidly built and one for the cellar. Best from 2023 through 2033. 752 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

A medium-bodied red with very poised and fine fleshy texture, with strawberries, orange peel and hints of hazelnut. Fruit tea. Juicy, long and flavorful, yet always reserved and focused. Refined and polished. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2019 Pinot Noir Jensen Vineyard is all class. Floral and bright, with terrific nuance, the Jensen is so impressive. Vibrant acids lift a core of sweet red berry fruit, rose petal, mint, cedar, cinnamon and blood orange. This is another Pinot in this range that is so harmonious right out of the gate. There’s real dimension and complexity here.Vinous Media | 94 VMRugged cherry aromas meet with earth herbs, star anise and gamy charcuterie on the nose of this bottling, which was grown in true limestone at 2,200 feet. That rugged character rolls through the palate, featuring wild plums, salted meat, bay leaf and wood oil, with enough texture and acidity to last awhile. Drink now-2039.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEVery fresh, featuring raspberry, blood orange and mulberry fruit that’s well-defined and backed by mouthwatering acidity. Offers rose petal and savory notes along the way. A nice piercing minerality extends the finish. Best from 2023 through 2032. 720 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The 2019 Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard is one of the more aromatic wines in this range. It is also incredibly tight at this stage. Crushed rocks, dried flowers, mint, earthiness white pepper and sweet red cherry are some of the many notes that grace this decidedly sinewy, taut Pinot. More exotic spice, blood orange and dried herb notes emerge over time. The 2019 needs a ton of air, as such it is an easy wine to underestimate.Vinous Media | 94 VMPlum, dried strawberry and rose stem aromas. Full-bodied, layered and savory with fine tannins and a long and flavorful finish. Juicy and bright. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSShowing lighter in the glass, this bottling from 1988 vines offers dark mulberry fruit on the complex nose alongside turned earth, juniper and toasty cappuccino notes. The gamy elements are well integrated on the palate, where coffee bean, roasted plum and bay leaf extend into a caramel-kissed finish.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WERedolent of blood and cloves, brown spices and sanguine tinges, this wine is fascinating if a bit unformed. The flavors are concentrated and the spice runs deep, surrounding its core, so, if you don’t cellar this, consider decanting it an hour before pouring with a dish with melded flavors, like lamb tagine. Wine & Spirits Magazine | 93 W&SWell-proportioned, with a juicy core of black cherry and mulberry fruit flanked by judicious toast. Sleek acidity drives the finish, where red tea and spice accents fill in. Built for cellaring. Drink now through 2030. 1,936 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS