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A comparison of two 1961s from Giacomo Conterno is next. Conterno’s 1961 Barolo Riserva Speciale Monfortino is, not surprisingly, deeper and more intense in all of its dimensions. Iron, smoke, graphite, leather and sweet tobacco wrap around a core of dark fruit in a Barolo that packs a serious punch, especially considering its age. This is a superb bottle.Vinous Media | 95 VMThe 1961 Barolo Riserva Monfortino was especially beautiful and fresh. It offered a similar flavor profile as the 1958 with greater harmony and balance, if not quite as much sheer power.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

The 2013 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is another huge, tannic wine. Crystalline and so precise, the 2013 is deceptive, as the aromatics are quite inviting, until masses of tannin hit the palate. Tar, rose petal, spice and cedar open with a bit of time in the glass, showing just enough to make the wine pleasurable today. Even so, the best is clearly yet to come. Patience will be rewarded.Vinous Media | 99 VMSubtle aromas of cherry, wild herb and tobacco introduce this sleek, complex version, while cherry, strawberry, loam, iron and tobacco flavors build in intensity to the extended finish. But what truly defines this superb and silky Barolo is the texture and harmony, with a fine weave to the dense tannins. All the components come together on the lingering aftertaste. Best from 2022 through 2050. 1,666 cases made.Wine Spectator | 99 WSWarm aromas of plums, rose petals and spices with hints of sandalwood. Some tar. Full body, dense center palate with glorious fruit and a fantastic finish. Very, very polished and fine tannins. Vertical and deep. A great Monfortino. Try in 2023.James Suckling | 99 JSI have been tasting this wine from barrel for the past two years and now finally, abracadabra, the 2013 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is safely housed in bottle. The wine was bottled in June of last year and will hit the market this upcoming October. The Barolo Francia was not produced in 2013 because Roberto Conterno diverted all fruit from that vineyard to this wine. Monfortino was not produced in 2011 or 2012, meaning that this 2013 edition follows directly after the absolutely stunning 2010 vintage (which earned a perfect 100-point score). The two vintages (2010 and 2013) are very similar, strikingly so, but the 2013 vintage registers at a slightly lower structural threshold. The tannins are slightly looser, or softer in the case of this wine. With up to six years in botte, the 2010 vintage is still crunchy and super sharp, while this wine is slightly more succulent and earthy. Some 20,000 bottles, 2,500 magnums and 400 three-liter bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPAfter the celebrated 2010, Monfortino is not disappointing in the cool and classic 2013 vintage as it suffers more in the warm vintages than the fresher ones. This Riserva is rich with fresh and savoury aromas of red cassis, cherry and blood orange, full of cinnamon spice and balsamic notes with a minty finish that’s intoxicating in its depth. On the palate it’s velvety with pleasant and ripe tannins and full and consistent structure. Overall, it’s perfectly balanced and will age for decades but is delicious for drinking now.Decanter | 97 DEC

The 2015 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is magical. This is the first vintage that includes fruit from Arione, so the 2015 is 80% Francia and 20% Arione. That marks a return to Monfortino as a multi-vineyard wine, which it mostly was until 1978, when the first Monfortino from Francia was made. The combination of sites works so well. I remember tasting the 2015 as separate components and seeing what exactly the Arione piece adds, and that is aromatic explosiveness, texture and breadth. Rose petal, mint, sage, tobacco and cedar lend complexity. More than anything else, though, I am blown away by how utterly delicious the 2015 is. Of course, the 2015 will be better in time, but its pedigree is plainly evident today. Roberto Conterno gave the 2015 just five years in cask, the shortest time in wood for any Monfortino in recent memory, maybe ever. Like most producers around the world, Conterno is thinking deeply about what the optimal period of time in oak is. As for the 2015, it is a flat-out stunner in every way.Vinous Media | 99 VMMonfortino was not produced in 2016 nor was it made in 2017. The jury is out on whether will see it in 2018 (but I do know that Roberto Conterno is super excited about the 2019 vintage in Barolo, speaking generally). That means that we might not see his flagship wine for a number of years. The 2015 Barolo Riserva Monfortino gives us plenty to contemplate in the meantime. First, in terms of winemaking notes, this vintage see 22% Arione fruit in the blend, with the rest from Francia. Roberto Conterno is fond of telling me that "Francia is a Barolo you drink, and Monfortino is a wine you chew." (The exact word in Italian is "masticare.") I think his comment rings especially true in this vintage that arguably shows greater concentration and fruit weight and softer or more integrated tannins overall. There is structure but minus any hard edges or bite.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98+ RP

This is the second 100-point Vigna Le Rocche, following the 2015. What the former had in intensity of fruit and transparency, this has in structure and power. The purity of fruit is sensational in this young Barolo, offering blackberries, black truffle and iron. Rust too. This is so tannic and powerful with incredible structure. This may be the most structured Barolo from Bruno Giacosa I have ever tasted as a young wine. Speechless. Full-bodied and so intense, yet it remains fresh and agile. Traditional in every sense of the word, but this is clear and clean. A classic in the making. It will be in the market January 2022. Leave this for at least six to eight years. Try in 2027.James Suckling | 100 JSThe Bruno Giacosa 2016 Barolo Falletto Vigna Le Rocche sees its fruit sourced from the oldest vines in the Falletto cru. This wine boasts all the signature touches of Serralunga d’Alba with the massive structure, density and the long aging potential that comes with Nebbiolo grown in this village. The wine spreads evenly over the palate, imparting its considerable fruit weight and generally leaving a big impact. This Barolo is really quite lovely and beautiful. The bouquet is fluid and ever-shifting, showing new sides with firm fruit, blackberry, smoke, rusty nail and mineral with every swirl of the glass. I visited this vineyard site shortly before tasting this wine and marveled at the beautiful peacocks that roam free between the rows of vines.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RP

Deep ruby-colored with a light purple tinge, the 2016 Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Madonna Del Piano takes on another gear with its rich perfume unfolding with lavender, black cherry, cassis, fresh leather, licorice, fresh soil, and sage. The wine is full-bodied, with a ripe velveteen texture, while maintaining freshness, and it is elegantly rounded through the mid-palate, with notes of black plum, Earl Grey, scorched earth, and tea leaf. This seems to be moving at a glacial pace in its evolution and certainly warrants at least a few more years in cellar. Drink 2026-2050.Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JDThis is heavenly on the nose with fresh flowers such as violet and cherries with undertones of freshly shaved sandalwood. It’s full-bodied with very fine tannins that are focused and intense with a polished nature. This is a complete wine that impresses at every level. Give it at least five to six years to come together and resolve the tannin structure. Better after 2027.James Suckling | 99 JSExpressive yet complex, this red is already revealing tertiary hints of truffle, fading roses and spice. Features cherry, raspberry, iron, eucalyptus and anise flavors allied to a firm, compact structure. Balanced and long, with fresh fruit, spice and mineral accents lingering on the endless finish. Best from 2025 through 2045. 2,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 98 WSThe Valdicava 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano impresses for its intensity, its balance and its freshness. The wine is medium to full-bodied with a good amount of fruit weight and power that is offset by acidity and the lifted, vibrant quality of the bouquet. If balance is the objective, this wine meets it goals, although like with many of its peers, you certainly won’t miss the deep inner power of this determined Brunello.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano is totally captivating: deep, dark and viral. It smolders up from the glass, with a thrilling mix of cherries and plums complemented by notes of black tea, balsam herbs and ashen stone. With each return to the glass, this seems to expand further, adding nuances of smoke and animal musk. The 2016 is packed full of energy but also youthful tension, showing the radiance of the vintage with its citrus-tinged fruits and depths of minerality. Through it all, energizing acidity maintains harmony, just as fine tannins slowly saturate, resulting in a long finish that resonates on licorice and purple-tinged inner florals. The 2016 is one of the most balanced, yet also prettiest, expressions that I have ever witnessed from Valdicava’s Madonna del Piano.Vinous Media | 96 VM

Roses and lavender with other flowers. Peaches. Glorious fruit of dark plums and ripe strawberries. This is dense and intense but there are layers of very fine tannins, like fine cashmere. Goes on for minutes. Opens in the mouth. Almost endless. Three years in cask and two years in bottle before January 2023 release. Give this at least five to six years.James Suckling | 98 JSThis year’s top-end release from Bruno Giacosa is the 2017 Barolo Riserva Falletto Vigna Le Rocche (in the red label). Bottled in 2019, the wine stands apart thanks to a hot and dry growing season that Bruna Giacosa is very excited about. In fact, she prefers 2017 to 2015, although the two vintages do share similarities. This wine is very open-knit, and it reveals dark concentration in the form of ripe blackberry, candied cherry and spice. The tannins show a loose, granular quality that adds considerably to the textural impact of this Riserva.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThis supple red is elegant and powerful, driven by an underlying mineral element. Strawberry, cherry, rose, iron and wild thyme aromas and flavors persist, building to a long aftertaste, while dense, refined tannins lend support. Offers superb balance and length. Best from 2025 through 2045. 110 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WS

The 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva is a benchmark wine for the estate and one of the clear standouts of the vintage. It shows gorgeous transparency on the nose, with bergamot, incense, fresh red berries, cherries, and a saline mineral drive. Medium to full-bodied, it’s weightless and incredibly precise, with ripe tannins, focused acidity, and a finish that carries for ages without feeling heavy. This captures what makes the 2019 vintage so compelling, and it should evolve beautifully over the next several decades. Drink 2028-2058.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDHead winemaker Federico Radi describes 2019 as intrinsically generous in every way – even in the quantity of grapes produced. Intense and captivating, the Riserva is already forthcoming with scents of wet earth, porcini, dark red berries, sage and dried mint. Neither opulent nor lean, it is tastefully generous. Dark violet, fresh moss and bittersweet orange perfume the mid-palate. Long, fine tannins are intricately knit giving textural complexity, while steely acidity amplifies the whole. Oily herbs and sweet spice linger leisurely. Complete and aristocratic with nothing out of place, this exudes its impeccable sartorial style and should continue to do so at a steady cadence.Decanter Magazine | 99 DECKeeping with tradition, the 2019 Biondi Santi Brunello Riserva is an absolutely gorgeous wine with class, finesse, depth and serious aging potential. It beguiles with heady scents of violet, wild rose, perfumed berry and Mediterranean brush that on the elegantly structured palate seamlessly segue into succulent wild cherry, licorice, crushed mint and blood orange. Taut, fine-grained tannins provide support while bright acidity keeps it energized and impeccably balanced. What a stunner. It’s still youthfully austere so have patience. Drink 2031–2049. Abv: 13.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 99 KOIntense and expressive, this red evokes plum, raspberry and cherry flavors accented by iron and tobacco. The mouthcoating tannins are dusty and inform the finish, with ample fruit up front that should offset these in the long run. The overriding impression is of elegance, yet patience is required. Best from 2030 through 2050. 1,067 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 98 WSA classy wine with restrained aromas of embers, incense, stony minerality, fresh violets, dried cherries, red currants, leaves and vibrant orange peel. Full-bodied and juicy on the palate, with firm acidity and tannins, a slightly chalky yet ripe texture and flavors of red cherries and graphite. Super-polished and cleansing finish. Outstanding tannins. Biondi-Santi is back! Drink or hold. It will last for decades.James Suckling | 98 JSThe Biondi-Santi 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva shows balanced fruit weight and clear definition, with dark currant and cherry at the core. Retasted one day later, the wine had opened nicely, gaining cohesion and improved harmony. The 2019 growing season delivered healthy, well-ripened fruit with natural concentration, a profile that emphasizes structure and richness. This Riserva is made from a strict selection of the estate’s best fruit, sourced from its oldest vineyards. Fermentation is carried out with indigenous yeasts, followed by extended aging in large Slavonian oak casks (which has been somewhat shortened in recent years). At Tenuta Il Greppo, the historic home of Biondi-Santi in Montalcino, some of the estate’s vines date back to the 1930s, making the oldest plantings over 80 years old. These heritage vines contribute to the depth and lineage of the estate’s Brunello and Riserva wines.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva reveals a darkly floral, balsamic profile as it slowly unfolds in the glass. With coaxing, the nose impresses with a classic array of dried roses, worn leather, dusty earth and spice-encrusted black cherries. The finessed palate displays silky-smooth textures and a pure core of ripe red and black fruit. Saline mineral tones frame the palate and provide a crunchy, savory sensation toward the close. The 2019 concludes with tremendous length and concentration, violet and lavender florals, fine-grained tannins and a persistent lift of sour citrus. This is a stunning Riserva from Biondi-Santi that showcases the estate’s successful pursuit of purity over the last six to seven years. This will require considerable patience for its textures to flesh out. I wouldn’t approach it today without a long decant.Vinous Media | 97+ VM