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Crushed stone, mint, blackberries and cassis all appear upon the nose of the 2020 Ermitage le Pavillon. The great vintages of these wines soak up the oak, like this one has. Full-bodied, concentrated and massive in scale, it’s a mouthful of dark fruit flavors that gradually morph into something more savory on the long, silky-firm finish, adding notes of black olives and espresso. It’s really impressive, as it maintains a sense of elegance all along its path.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RPThe 2020 Ermitage Le Pavillon is pure gold, and Hermitage doesn’t get any better. Incredible aromatics of cassis, graphite, burning embers, and crushed stone all emerge from this beauty. Stunningly proportioned and incredibly pure, it’s full-bodied, concentrated, and powerful, but as with all great vintages of this cuvée, it’s going to demand bottle age. While Les Greffieux and Le Méal bring much more opulence, this is the powerhouse, long-distance candidate in the lineup. It’s an incredible effort. Give bottles upwards of a decade in the cellar, and it should evolve effortlessly over the following 30-40 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDThis has that tell-tale touch of soy to the plum and blackcurrant fruit so reminiscent of this cuvée. Fluid and juicy on the palate, this has great intensity and salinity without feeling heavy or overripe. Plenty of sweet, ripe tannin and balanced acidity. Only medium-bodied, there’s a touch of pepperiness on the finish, great freshness, harmony and balance. Sometimes a wine seems a bit too easy, a bit too effortless, and it can lull you into a sense that it lacks seriousness; this wine tries to do that, but I’m not inclined to underestimate it.Decanter | 99 DECPatience, please, but in return for that you will be given the keys to Hermitage heaven. This is extremely concentrated, but also extremely refined. Incredible finesse for this level of power with extraordinary density of ripe black fruits. Somehow this manages to smell and taste unbelievably fresh. And that freshness just doesn’t want to stop at the finish. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drinkable now, but best from 2026.James Suckling | 98 JSMassive and full-throttled, with beautiful delicacy to the tannins, which gives this a sleek, velvety feel. Packs generous fig, plum and mulled cherry fruit flavors, with great tension and mineral intensity, while a graphite edge drives the length. The subtly chewy, nicely defined close is graced with warm earth accents, harnessing ample energy in reserve. Drink now through 2040.Wine Spectator | 97 WSDark purple. Potent dark berry preserve, cherry-cola, exotic spice, potpourri and mineral aromas convey impressive energy and acquire smoked bacon and licorice nuances with air. Sappy, deeply concentrated blackberry, bitter cherry, fruitcake and salty olive paste flavors stain the palate and show almost shocking energy for their heft. Closes with superb, floral- and mineral-dominated persistence and chewy tannins adding final grip. I also had the chance to drink the still-youthful and mineral-driven 2011 rendition of this wine, made entirely from fruit grown in Bessards, and was blown away by its balance and freshness.Vinous Media | 96-98 VM

Brought up all in new demi-muids and barrels, the 100% Roussanne 2022 Châteauneuf Du Pape Roussanne Vieilles Vignes offers a heavenly bouquet of ripe quince, acacia flowers, toasted almonds, citrus oil, and spice. Ful-bodied, deep, concentrated, and layered, with an unctuous style, this is pure Beaucastel magic. Reminding me of the 2009 (which is drinking brilliantly today), it deserves 2-4 years of bottle age and will absolutely blow you away over the following decade or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDThe 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape Roussanne Vieilles Vignes is another triumphant vintage for this bottling. Fermented and matured in a combination of new and second-use oak, it’s ripe and honeyed, with waves of lush peach and melon fruit, yet it somehow never seems overdone. Full-bodied, ripe and round, it’s expansive in the mouth yet never heavy, finishing long and luxurious, with subtle hints of wood spice, honey and citrus.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPAmazing nose of dried apricots and caramelized pears with a lot of toasted nut complexity. Very rich and mellow on the full-bodied palate, this glides over your palate. Opulent in the best sense, the creaminess very sensual, and then comes the amazingly graceful and properly dry, super-long finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSThis extraordinary white is just beginning to open up to reveal its expert mix of power and refinement, with measured opulence held in check by saline-streaked mineral notes. There’s plenty of ripe yellow apple and pear to give the desired voluptuousness, with a simmering well of energy keeping tension from start to lengthy finish. Subtle oak toast and buttercream hints remain gracefully integrated in the backdrop. A few years in the cellar will allow this to really shine. Drink now through 2035.Wine Spectator | 96 WSRicher, more honeyed than the 2023 on the nose. Generous and full-bodied, with low acidity and more noticeable noble bitter notes than the 2023. The oak isn’t quite so well integrated yet, so give it more time to harmonise. Powerful, though, and very flavoursome, with a spicy profile. The alcohol doesn’t feel excessive, even for a hot, dry vintage like 2022. A particularly bold and powerful example of this cuvée, which is from a single parcel of Roussanne, planted in 1919 and grown biodynamically. Aged in one-year-old demi-muids and barriques. Maximum of 6,000 bottles per year.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECThe dashing 2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Roussanne Vieilles Vignes is yet another brilliant white from this reliable address. Discrete cedar, lemon peel, ripe pear, yellow apple and spring blossom are all pushed forward. Verbena tea and melon add more dimension. Hitting the palate with ample concentration and tension, the 2022 flawlessly makes its way to a sapid finish that lingers with an elegant aftertaste.Vinous Media | 95 VM

Coming from the Les Murets lieu-dit and 100-year-old vines, with 20% from L’Ermite, the 2022 Ermitage Ex-Voto Blanc is a heavenly white offering quince, candle wax, crushed stone, and orange blossom-like aromatics. Based on 95% Marsanne and 5% Roussanne and aged 24 months in new French oak, it shows incredible depth and purity, with full-bodied richness and a focused, balanced style. This monumental Hermitage needs a year or two and should have decades of longevity. Hermitage Blanc doesn’t get any better! Drink 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDThe fabulous 2022 Ermitage Blanc Ex-Voto unwinds with vivid lemon flesh, yellow apple, white peach and honeysuckle. Flinty subtleties add a deliciously reductive touch. On the palate, the 2022 dazzles with remarkable depth and intensity, all backed by refreshing levels of bright acidity. What an awesome Ermitage Blanc Ex-Voto! Readers should note that no 2021 was produced.Vinous Media | 96 VMVery youthful, but the concentration, firm structure and vitality are already very impressive. This shows ample toast and vanilla-oak aromas plus pronounced oak tannins, but all of this is integrating beautifully. Stunning interplay of restrained creaminess and intense stony minerality in the long finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JS