Collector Wines

wines

A comparison of two 1961s from Giacomo Conterno is next. Conterno’s 1961 Barolo Riserva Speciale Monfortino is, not surprisingly, deeper and more intense in all of its dimensions. Iron, smoke, graphite, leather and sweet tobacco wrap around a core of dark fruit in a Barolo that packs a serious punch, especially considering its age. This is a superb bottle.Vinous Media | 95 VMThe 1961 Barolo Riserva Monfortino was especially beautiful and fresh. It offered a similar flavor profile as the 1958 with greater harmony and balance, if not quite as much sheer power.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

Full-bodied, unctuous and powerful in the glass, the 1985 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano is a total turn on. Exotic spice, smoke, tobacco, dried rose petal, leather and licorice build into a heady crescendo of aromas, flavors and textures. Although the 1985 is currently at a glorious peak of expression, I don’t expect it will improve much from here. Readers lucky enough to have had the 1985 know just how magical it is. Any remaining bottles are best enjoyed over the next decade or so.Vinous Media | 97 VMThe 1985 Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva’s medium ruby/garnet color displays considerable amber at the edge. The intoxicating perfume of Chinese black tea, smoke, tobacco, cherries, and exotic spices jumps from the glass. The wine is full-bodied, gorgeously-nuanced, and multidimensional, with considerable glycerin and layers of flavor. It unfolds fabulously in the mouth, exhibiting remarkable intensity and complexity. The 1985 has just reached full maturity, where it should remain for another decade.Robert Parker | 96 RPGiven how many bottles of the 1982 Santa Stefano Red Label I have drunk over the years, it is surprising that I have seldom had the pleasure to drink the superb 1985 version, and it is more than fifteen years since I last crossed paths with this wine. It is a fine, fine wine, but not one of the legends of the decade of the 1980s from Signor Giacosa. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a nicely blossomed blend of red and black cherries, bonfire, a touch of road tar, lovely soil tones, oregano and a topnote of fresh bay leaf. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, complex and still sporting a bit of backend tannin, with fine focus and grip, a good, solid core and a long, well-balanced finish. This is a very good bottle that misses the extra dimension of the 1982 and 1989 versions. (Drink between 2017 - 2040)John Gilman | 93 JG

Sandrone appears to have topped what he achieved in 1982, 1985, 1988, and 1989 with a nearly perfect 1990 Barolo from the Cannubi Boschis vineyard. There are only 1,600 cases of this blockbuster Barolo for the world, but should you have the requisite contacts to be able to latch on to a few bottles, don’t hesitate! It is an amazingly rich, superbly balanced, profound Barolo that is crammed with flavor. It exhibits a hauntingly intense bouquet of roses, black-cherries, new leather, and a touch of tar. Great richness and extraordinary precision are its hallmarks. This massive wine is a riveting tasting and drinking experience. Do not be misled by the wine’s appearance of immediate drinkability. Many of the 1989 and 1990 Barolos are so sweet and precocious there is a temptation to forget how much tannin is buried beneath the decadent levels of fruit. The 1990 Cannubi Boschis should peak in 7-10 years and last for at least 20 or more. An awesome effort!Robert Parker | 99 RPMassive yet classy. Dark ruby color. Fabulous aromas of fresh berries, cherries and minerals. Full-bodied, with loads of round, ripe tannins and a long, long finish. A joy to taste. Better with more age.--Piedmont retrospective. Best after 2005. —Add this wine to this Personal Wine ListAdd this wine to this Personal Wine ListDefault PWL (0) Learn more about Personal Wine ListsRelated Links Additional Tastings User NotesAdditional Tastings for LUCIANO SANDRONE Barolo Cannubi Boschis 1990Issue: Oct 31, 1994Score: 96Rich, ripe, round and utterly captivating, a powerful wine that wraps its rich fruit in plush textures. Berry, currant, black cherry, vanilla, spice and toasty flavors spill over the palate in a torrent of sweet richness.Wine Spectator | 97 WSStill young, it is simply magnificent on this night. Luciano Sandrone’s 1990 Barolo Cannubi Boschis is the wine that made him a super-star, and rightly so, as it is tremendous. Still, this is one wine where I am starting to see limited potential from further cellaring.Vinous Media | 96 VM

While the 2004 is a finessed wine, the 2006 Barolo is all brute power and intensity. Raw and explosive, with tons of underlying structure, the 2006 simply dazzles from the very first taste. With time in the glass, a host of dark, balsamic-inflected notes start to blossom. Even so, the 2006 is a wine to bury in the deepest corner of the cellar and forget about for at least another 5-10 years, as it is very much still on the ascent. What a wine.Antonio Galloni | 98 AGThe 2006 Barolo is flat-out great. It possesses dazzling inner perfume, intense color, beautifully nuanced fruit and a classic, austere young-Barolo profile that will allow it to age gracefully for decades. The 2006 is shaping up to be a gem. Anticipated maturity: 2021-2036.Bartolo Mascarello was a true icon in Piedmont. Although Mascarello was famous for his wines, he was at least as well known for his outspoken views on everything from winemaking to politics. Mascarello’s best wines were legendary, but the quality of what was in the bottle didn’t always live up to all of the hype. Against this backdrop, it must have been very difficult for Maria-Theresa Mascarello to take over the family winery after her father passed away a few years ago. Not only has Maria-Theresa Mascarello suceeded in living up to her father’s legacy, she has taken the wines to a new level entirely. The Baroli in particular have been nothing less than stunning here over the last few years. The rebirth of Bartolo Mascarello (the winery) is one of the great, unheralded success stories in Piedmont over the last few years. I urge readers to do whatever they can to taste these great wines. Those who have an interest should make a point to visit the winery and taste from barrel. I also include notes on the 2005 and 2006 Baroli for readers who are curious to see how the wines are developing. The only wine that is disappointing this year is the 2008 Freisa Monrobiolo. The Freisa undergoes a secondary fermentation in bottle and the summer of 2009 did not provide consistently warm enough temperatures for that to happen. The Mascarello Freisa is a staunchly traditional wine and often requires an especially forgiving palate, as is the case with the 2008.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPCantina Bartolo Mascarello, one of the feistiest and most historic estates in the Langhe, has crafted an amazing Barolo in 2006 that delivers both elegance and opulence. It’s a richly layered and complex wine with a natural fullness and generosity that really sits well on the palate. Cellar this wine 10 years or more.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEA distinctive orange pekoe tea aroma settles into cherry, licorice and eucalyptus flavors as this rich red unfolds on the palate. It’s firm and closes down, but the sweet fruit lingers and this shows fine potential. Best from 2015 through 2032.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

Mascarello’s 2007 Barolo shows just how compelling this vintage can be, even now. Sensual, layered and totally voluptuous in the glass, the 2007 shows the more flamboyant side of Barolo. I find the wine’s voluptuous, engaging personality impossible to resist. Sure, 2007 is not a classic vintage, but when a wine is this good, I say: Who cares?Vinous Media | 97 VMThe 2007 Barolo has grown tremendously over the last few months. Some bottles have been more closed than others, but what is certain is that the wine is putting on weight. The 2007 appears to have a long drinking window ahead. It is without question one of the wines of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2037.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPMascarello presents an outstanding 2007 base Barolo (with fruit sourced from the Barolo and La Morra zones) that is packed extra tight with generosity, concentration and rich chocolate, cherry and leather aromas. The long finish is soft and velvety, but the tannins and acidity guarantee a long future ahead.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WE

This is an elegant Nebbiolo-based wine and arguably the most feminine of Gaja’s newest releases. There’s extreme balance and sophistication evident in the focused aromas of wild berry, white licorice, pressed violets and polished stone. The mouthfeel is tight, firm and those tannins need at least 10 more years to soften in your cellar. Beautiful.Wine Enthusiast | 99 WEThe 2007 Langhe Sori Tildin opens with a huge, kaleidoscopic bouquet that immediately draws me in. A remarkably vivid wine, the sensual Sori Tildin caresses the palate with silky, textured fruit, showing incredible power, length and class. There is a transparency to the wine that is beguiling. Once again, the finish is eternal. Sori Tildin is one of Gaja’s more nuanced wines, and in 2007 it is breathtakingly beautiful. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2037My most recent visit to Gaja was quite an experience, as I tasted all of the estate’s 1989s, 1990s and 2007s. The 1989s and 1990s are reviewed in this issue’s What About Now feature. Angelo Gaja, always loquacious on a wide range of subjects, says virtually nothing about his wines, an approach I have increasingly come to appreciate in an era where so many producers are constantly in pitch mode. Then again, Gaja doesn’t really need to say anything, the wines speak for themselves. I tasted the 2007s at the winery in November 2009 and then again in New York in January 2010. Both times they were spectacular. Stylistically the 2007s remind me of the 1997s in terms of their opulence. Gaja’s wines are often immensely appealing when young – which is certainly the case with the 2007s – but then close down in bottle for a number of years, sometimes many years. My impression is that the Costa Russi and Conteisa are the most likely of these 2007s to offer the widest drinking windows throughout their lives with a minimum of cellaring. Fermentation and malolactic fermentation take place in steel. The wines then spend approximately one year in French oak and a second year in cask prior to being bottled. As has been the case for a number of years now, Gaja’s Langhe wines incorporate a small percentage of Barbera. On a final note, it’s great to see Gaja’s daughters Gaia and Rossana increasingly involved in the winery. They, and their younger brother Giovanni, have big shoes to fill, but couldn’t have asked for better teachers than Angelo and Lucia Gaja.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2007 Langhe Sorì Tildìn opens with a huge, kaleidoscopic bouquet that immediately draws me in. A remarkably vivid wine, the sensual Sorì Tildìn caresses the palate with silky, textured fruit, showing incredible power, length and class. There is a transparency to the wine that is beguiling. Once again, the finish is eternal. Sorì Tildìn is one of Gaja’s more nuanced wines, and in 2007 it is breathtakingly beautiful.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGVery, very fresh and floral with peaches, ripe strawberries and plums. So aromatic and clear. Full-bodied, with powerful tannins and a cocoa, chocolate aftertaste. Gorgeous and sturdy. Needs time. Better after 2016.James Suckling | 97 JSToast and spice aromas lead off in this warm, expansive red, which quickly evokes black cherry, plum, floral and spice flavors, all allied to the silky texture and precision structure. Rich fruit and spice flavors echo on the finish. Best from 2014 through 2032. 80 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

The 2009 d’Alceo comes across as much more classic in style and structure than the 2008. According to Luca di Napoli, the trick to 2009 was harvesting on the early side. Freshly cut flowers, sweet red berries, plums, mint and licorice all take shape in the glass Over the last few months, the 2009 d’Alceo has softened a bit, releasing expressive, floral aromatics, brighter shades of fruit and striking inner perfume, but it remains quite vibrant in the context of a vintage in which so many wines are quite a bit riper in style. The 2009 is a wonderfully deep, resonant d’Alceo that should offer a wide drinking window starting in a few years. It certainly looks like Rampolla nailed the vintage.Antonio Galloni | 96+ AGA super generous red with spices, meat and berry character. Full body with round and velvety tannins. Rich and generous. Gorgeous wine. A blend of cabernet sauivgnon and petite verdot. Much better in 2015 when the tannins come together.James Suckling | 95 JSNo written review provided. | 90 W&S

Fragrant, with incense and sandalwood notes framing the core of cherry, accented by hints of leather, tobacco and tea. Exhibits purity and density despite the formidable tannins. The finish is long and complex, revealing fruit and spice elements. Best from 2018 through 2035. 1,833 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WSThe 2010 Sperss delivers a broad approach to the bouquet with bold flavors of red fruit, spice and milk chocolate that caress the palate. The wine sports a broad frame with beautiful fruit filling at its core. The tannins in Sperss are very firm and structured and this wine won’t be ready for five to ten more years. Drink: 2018-2040.I have some happy news to report from the exciting world of Angelo Gaja. The estate that was notoriously difficult (if not impossible) to visit for those outside the wine trade is now opening its doors to the public. There is a steep entrance fee, but the scheme makes perfect sense in my option. Any wine lover can make an appointment to tour the estate and sample wine for up to 300 euros a person. The money must be paid to charity as none of the proceeds go to Gaja. If you have a favorite non-profit organization, make a donation in that amount. Once you send receipt of payment to Gaja’s tasting room staff, your visit will be granted. It sounds like a fair exchange to me.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPDark red fruit, savory herbs, menthol, tobacco and smoke are some of the many notes that take shape in the 2010 Sperss. A wine of unusual translucency and nuance, in 2010 Sperss is supremely refined and less bombastic than is often the case. The 2010 shuts down quickly in the glass and its best days lie many, many years ahead. Today, though, I am quite struck by what appears to be a subtle yet noticeable change in direction at Gaja.Vinous Media | 95+ VMAromas of menthol, tobacco, juicy black fruit, grilled herb and a whiff of truffle unfold in the glass. Made with Nebbiolo from the firm’s Serralunga holdings and a drop of Barbera, it has a pristine palate that delivers dark black cherry, licorice and black pepper alongside firm but fine tannins. It’s still young and austere so give it time to develop fully. Drink 2020–2045.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WELots of dark, deep fruits on the nose with hints of game. Full body, soft and silky tannins, and a long and flavorful finish. I like the play of fruit and austere tannins. Better in 2017.James Suckling | 94 JS

A beautiful, late-release 2010 Barolo Riserva, whose first impression is pink grapefruit, before settling on more familiar territory of dark cherries, lemon peel, lavender and heather with a touch of cedar. Full body, savory yet generous tannins and a long, chewy finish. Floral undertones throughout. Handsomely indented Burgundy bottle that you should seek out. Drink in 2022.James Suckling | 97 JSWow, this is really quite a wine. The 2010 Barolo Riserva Ginestra is guided by three lucky stars: First, it is made by an excellent producer. Second, it comes from an excellent vintage. And third, it comes from an excellent vineyard site. This is a stunning achievement that is teeming with life, intensity, elegance, pedigree and sheer excitement. The bouquet achieves impressive balance with fruit, spice, mineral and tertiary tones that are all played forward with equal intensity. There is a spot of sweetness on the close (with 15% alcohol) that adds to the volume and fullness of the mouthfeel. This wine merits a special place at the back of your cellar where it can age undisturbed for the next decade or two. Only 4,000 bottles exist.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPNot surprisingly, the 2010 Barolo Ginestra Riserva is the most overt and explosive Barolo in this range. Violets, lavender, blue/black fruit, smoke and licorice burst from the glass. The 2010 is wonderfully alive, with tons of Ginestra power and personality to burn. Today, the 2010 has the potential to develop into a thrilling Barolo.Vinous Media | 93-96 VMThis is still pretty closed up, with a kernel of sweet fruit surrounded by chewy tannins and licorice, leafy tobacco and underbrush flavors. Gains flesh and cherry notes with air, culminating in a dense, tannic finish. Best from 2023 through 2045. 400 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2011 d’Alceo is fascinating to taste next to the Sammarco, as it is much more open-knit, silky and expressive. Cherry jam, pomegranate, spice and new leather flesh out in the glass. The integration of fruit, tannin and acidity is further along than in the Sammarco. The 2011 d’Alceo should open up pretty early, which should be welcome news to readers cellaring some of the more tannic vintages. I expect the 2011 will provide readers with a long drinking window of pure pleasure.Vinous Media | 97 VMThis is very firm and dense with fantastic structure and a superb depth of fruit and silky tannins. Full body showing a core of ripe fruit featuring currants and blackberries. Minerals and fresh mushrooms to add. Better in 2018.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2011 d’Alceo is a stunning blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon with 15% Petit Verdot. The bouquet is perfumed and enticing with dark rose, cherry fruit, spice, leather, cola, grilled herb and so much more. Fruit comes from a six-hectare single vineyard (whereas fruit for the Sammarco represents a special selection from various vineyards.) The intensity and purity is what sets this wine apart. Both are impeccable. In the mouth, d’Alceo feels long, linear and meaningful. Castello dei Rampolla practices biodynamic farming.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPSmooth and structured, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot opens with intense aromas of ripe blackberry, red currant, exotic spice, menthol, blue flower and a hint of grilled bell pepper. The dense, concentrated palate offers juicy black cherry, raspberry, vanilla, mocha, Asian spice and a hint of game alongside velvety tannins that give it a polished texture.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WE

The 2011 Barolo Riserva Novantesimo is a proud and exuberant wine that does enormous justice to the vintage and to the mighty Nebbiolo grape. This is remembered as a warm growing season, and this wine is richly layered, generous and beautifully intense as a result. Dark cherry aromas are folded within spice, cured tobacco and leather. The best part is that subtle crunch or snap you get on the palate, thanks to the fresh acidity that is neatly integrated within.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPPressed rose, iris, new leather, exotic spice, menthol and a whiff of wild berry come to the forefront on this gorgeous wine. The full-bodied, polished palate has a weightless elegance, delivering raspberry compote, crushed cherry, licorice, aromatic herb and a floral note alongside taut, velvety tannins. It’s already beautiful but hold for even more complexity. Drink 2021–2031. Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOPressed rose, iris, new leather, exotic spice, menthol and a whiff of wild berry come to the forefront on this gorgeous wine. The full-bodied polished palate has a weightless elegance, delivering raspberry compote, crushed cherry, licorice, aromatic herb and a floral note alongside taut velvety tannins. It’s already beautiful but hold for even more complexity. Drink 2021–2031.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEIn 2011, Scavino bottled a small amount of the 2011 Barolo Riserva Novantesimo, a blend of fruit fruit from a handful of top-notch sites to celebrate the winery’s 90th anniversary. A hauntingly beautiful wine, the 2011 graces the palate with notable nuance and detail. Freshly cut flowers, mint and sweet red berries are all laced together in an exquisite Barolo endowed with real class and pedigree. The Novantesimo is shaping up to be one of the wines of the vintage. That is little wonder. Look at the vineyard sites: Fiasco (Castiglione Falletto), Monvigliero (Verduno), Cannubi and Vignane (Barolo), San Bernardo (Serralunga), Bricco Ambrogio (Roddi) and Rocche dell’Annunziata (La Morra). This is a fabulous effort.Vinous Media | 96+ VMFresh and inviting, this beckons with complex aromas of cherry, sweet spices, leather and tar. The silky texture and refined tannins complement the cherry liqueur, tobacco and licorice flavors as this glides to a lingering aftertaste. Best from 2020 through 2035. 486 cases made, 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

The 2011 Syrah is an outstanding wine that evokes the elegance of the Rhone Valley with that of the Rhone Ranger in California. But it also shows a true Tuscan heart with warm climate tones of ripe blackberry and spice. The wine’s appearance is inky black and its long list of aromas include cured meat, barbecue spice, grilled herb, black mineral and blackberry pie. There’s even a balsamic note of cola or rosemary oil that pops at the end. You can count on a long drinking window with this gorgeous Syrah. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2035.Stefano Frascolla and Tua Rita have almost single-handedly put Suvereto on Italy’s winemaking map. His latest releases are nothing short of spectacular.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2011 Syrah is striking in its beauty. Despite the warm, precocious vintage, the 2011 screams with varietal character as expressed in Maremma. A wine of pure volume and breadth, the 2011 is going to be a lot of fun to follow. As of this tasting, the 2011 has just been bottled, so it is quite likely the wine will show even better in another 6-12 months.Antonio Galloni | 94+ AGFascinating aromas of violets, blue slate and crushed raspberries. Full body, polished and silky tannins and a fruity, lightly wooded aftertaste. Needs time to come together, but already delicious. Better in 2015.James Suckling | 93 JS

Aromas of blackcurrants and blueberries with hints of lavender and violets. Full body, chewy and polished tannins and a long, flavorful finish. A beautifully linear and polished red. Give it time to show it all but this is already a beauty. The depth and class to this are indeed impressive. Better in 2017.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2012 Tignanello is deep, rich and voluptuous, yet also retains a distinct element of classicism in its focused, mid-weight structure. Dark red cherry, pomegranate, kirsch, spice, tobacco and menthol open up in the glass, but only reluctantly. Firm veins of tannin and pulsating acidity give the wine its sense of energy and verticality. The mid-weight structure should allow the wine to open up in another few years. The 2012 isn’t as powerful as the 2010 or exotic as the 2011, but rather is most similar to how the 2005 was in its youth. The 2012 is a Tignanello built on pure finesse and grace. I would not open a bottle before its tenth birthday, if at all possible.Vinous Media | 95 VMHere’s a structured red with lots of finesse. It opens with alluring aromas of fragrant blue flowers, red berries, baking spices and exotic herbs while the firm, vibrant palate delivers black cherry, crushed raspberry, clove, orange zest, licorice and a sprinkling of white pepper. It’s still young but well balanced, with tightly woven but polished tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2017–2024.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe 2012 Tignanello is a very handsome wine with dark fruit nuances that extend far beyond the normal spectrum for Sangiovese (and the smaller percentages of French grapes that complete this wine). This vintage, that started off with a very hot summer and ended with a cool harvest season, show a little more spice and Mediterranean herb on the finish. Grapes were harvested at the end of September and delivered slightly less alcohol than previous vintages. There is a point of freshness but the tannins are mature and yielding. In fact, the tannic management is spot-on and is complimented by the velvety and rich nature of the mouthfeel. Pretty mineral accents add a lasting touch of complexity. The 2012 Tignanello has the qualities for a successful evolution.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPA rich, cherry-laced red, showing a slightly jammy character before shutting down in a grip of tannins. A bit awkward now, but should come around once the tannins are integrated.—Non-blind Tignanello vertical (October 2019). Best from 2022 through 2040. 2,500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2013 Syrah Per Sempre is another gorgeous wine from Tua Rita. This estate on the Tuscan Coast offers one of Italy’s top Syrahs. In vintages like this, it is in the running for the number one spot among Italian expressions of the Rhône grape. It opens to supremely finessed varietal characteristics of blackberry, chocolate, toasted espresso, smoked bacon and dark spice. The wine is aged in barrique for 21 months and no clarification is performed. In warmer vintages with early-ripening fruit, you risk that the muscular structure of the wine eventually overcomes the bouquet. This is not the case in 2013. The wine presents power and generosity in equal fashion across the senses. This wine was not produced in 2014 because the grape skins were damaged that year. Hold onto your bottles of 2013, because you need to make it last.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPI have tasted the 2013 Sirah Per Sempre several times over the last few months and it just keeps getting better. Intensely aromatic, Tua Rita’s Syrah is unusual for the Tuscan coast because of its distinctly floral/savory personality. Sweet tobacco, rose petal, sage, mint, wild flowers and red-fleshed fruit are some of the signatures. In the 2013 Sirah readers will find a wine endowed with tons of nuance and complexity. A final kick of aromatics married to rich Suvereto fruit leaves a lasting impression on the finish. Just bottled, the 2013 is quite raw and in need of time, but it is incredibly promising, not to mention delicious.Vinous Media | 95+ VMWonderful dried meat, spice, dried herb and earth character topped off with ripe fruit. It’s elegant and racy with great length and structure, yet also refined and gorgeous. So drinkable now. The Hermitage La Chapelle of Italy. Pure Syrah.James Suckling | 95 JSA meaty red, boasting blackberry, plum, black olive, smoke and vanilla aromas and flavors. Rich and dense, with a lingering aftertaste of herbs and oak spice. Drink now through 2023. 200 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSSpicy and supple, this has aromas of cured meat, white pepper, toast and dark plum that follow the warm robust palate along with dried black cherry, coffee and licorice. Round tannins provide the supple framework. Drink through 2020.Wine Enthusiast | 90 WE

This stunning red opens with a captivating fragrance of perfumed berry, rose, sandalwood and aromatic herb. Smooth, elegant and delicious, the intense palate delivers juicy Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, star anise and baking spice while a menthol note lingers on the close. Taut, polished tannins and fresh acidity give it great tension and balance. Drink 2023–2035. Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThis stunning red opens with a captivating fragrance of perfumed berry, rose, sandalwood and aromatic herbs. Smooth, elegant and delicious, the intense palate delivers juicy Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, star anise and baking spice, while a menthol note lingers on the close. Taut, polished tannins and fresh acidity give it great tension and balance. Drink 2023–2035. Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEThe 2015 Barolo Acclivi represents a blend of Nebbiolo from various hilltop sites in Verduno that have been selected for the quality of their fruit. The wine takes the concept of a Barolo "base" up one notch, because it represents a special selection of fruit that is not limited to a single parcel. This expression is grounded and even a bit heavier at its core, with more dark fruit and thickness that becomes its defining characteristic. This is especially true in a vintage like 2015 that already starts off with robust and sun-darkened fruit. The wine is not necessarily more accessible—because it is not—but it does offer a thicker caliber of Nebbiolo fruit.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2015 Barolo Acclivi is another stellar wine from Fabio Alessandria and Burlotto and is a blend of fruit from Monvigliero, Rocche dell’ Olmo and Neirane, all in Verduno. Bright, perfumed and silky on the palate, the Acclivi is a jewel of a wine. Floral notes appear in the glass, adding lift, perfume and sensuality. All the elements are in the right place. Today, Burlotto’s Cannubi and Monvigliero have become hard to find, but savvy readers will want to focus on the Acclivi, a wine that offers superb quality for the money. Another few years in bottle should help some of the fruit soften.Vinous Media | 94 VMJuicy, featuring cherry, strawberry, woodsy spice and tobacco aromas and flavors. Elegant, with firm, dry tannins. The terrific length echoes the fruit and spice elements. Best from 2022 through 2038. 660 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThis shows purity and brightness of fruit with cherry and ripe strawberry character. Medium body, integrated tannins and a fresh and clean finish. Very pretty. Drink from 2022.James Suckling | 92 JS

The 2015 Barolo Cannubi is another dizzying wine from Burlotto. A rush of dark cherry, plum, hard candy licorice, violet and spice all hit the palate. Powerful and vertical in the glass, the Cannubi simply has it all. I would give the 2015 a good bit of time to shed some of its considerable baby fat. Powerful, dense and packed, the Cannubi is not as showy or seductive as the Monvigliero, but it has so much to offer, especially with a bit of bottle age. What a magnificent wine it is!Vinous Media | 97 VMThe 2015 Barolo Cannubi is a very delicate and streamlined expression that puts one little foot forward in front of the next with timid steps before it starts to pick up speed and find its stride. That slow start is important to the character and quality of the wine because it means that you will find something a little different each time you put your nose to the glass. I like the wine better each time I go back to the glass. I’m sure I will love it even more five to ten years from now.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPA pretty red, this exhibits floral, strawberry, raspberry and white pepper aromas and flavors. Firms up quickly, offering a refined and present tannic backbone. This hangs together very nicely and lingers. Best from 2022 through 2038. 333 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSAromas of dried strawberries, orange peel and rose petals. Complex. Full body, super silky tannins with juicy acidity and a savory undertone. Needs time to open. Always a beautiful Cannubi. Try in 2022.James Suckling | 94 JSAromas of menthol, eucalyptus and dark skinned cherry form the nose. Lithe and linear, the taut palate offers Marasca cherry, strawberry, clove and crushed mint alongside tight, refined tannins and fresh acidity. Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KOAromas of menthol, eucalyptus and dark-skinned cherry form the nose. Lithe and linear, the taut palate offers Marasca cherry, strawberry, clove and crushed mint alongside tight, refined tannins and fresh acidity.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEThis historic estate based in Verduno is renowned for its Monvigliero bottling, but in 2015 its Cannubi from the village of Barolo seems even finer. The nose is sweet, floral and lifted, with no trace of overripeness. Initially sleek, the palate grows in austerity, which is often a characteristic of this wine. But this grip and structure are welcome and don’t dominate the spiciness and persistence of the fruit. Very long.Decanter | 92 DEC

Perhaps the most robust and solid of the three wines by Roberto Voerzio tasted this year, the 2015 Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata is built like a little tank, or motor, that keeps moving forward no matter what. You taste that spirit and determination thanks to the elegantly aligned fruit and spice flavors that make up the wine’s elaborate profile. However, I also taste the 2015 vintage characteristics of rich and concentrated fruit to a greater degree in the Rocche dell’Annunziata. There is a point of softness here that you don’t get in Fossati or Cerequio. I tasted the open bottle again 24 hours later and was treated to beautiful notes of mint and balsam herb.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPSimilar notes of mulled black cherries, menthol, toasted spices, tobacco, and licorice emerge from the 2015 Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata. It has the ripe, sexy style of the vintage, medium to full-bodied richness, an elegant, seamless texture, and a great finish. There are plenty of tannins here, yet they’re sweet and polished, and this beauty already offers pleasure. Nevertheless, it’s going to benefit from 4-5 years of bottle age and should have three decades of overall longevity.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2015 Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata is laced with the essence of crushed raspberry, flowers, cedar, spice and tobacco. Silky and lifted in the glass, with a real sense of translucent beauty, the 2015 hits all the right notes. It’s a super classic Barolo from one of La Morra’s greatest sites.Vinous Media | 94 VM

This is a fantastic white. The greatest Ornellaia white so far. Very complex and dense yet, at the same time, energetic and vivid. This shows so much richness and density with a pretty, phenolic texture that keeps you entranced. Full-bodied with lots of honeysuckle, green-melon and cooked-apple character. Very long and flavorful. Dynamic and great wine. Drinkable now, but better in 2021.James Suckling | 99 JSThe star of the show with regard to the whites is unquestionably the 2016 Ornellaia Bianco. It’s reminiscent of a great vintage of Domaine de Chevalier with its incredible purity, precision, and length, displaying notes of clean citrus, melon, white flowers, and honeyed minerality. Fresh and vibrant as well as rich and powerful, it’s medium-bodied, seamless, and flawlessly balanced on the palate, with a thrilling finish. While it’s beautiful today, it should keep for 10-15 years or more. The 2016 is 100% Sauvignon Blanc that was brought up in 30% new French oak.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDA cooler but drier year than 2015, making an interesting comparison between Ornellaia Bianco’s only two 100% Sauvignon Blanc vintages. Smoky lanolin notes lead to a concentrated, intense and juicy palate with creamy nectarine, grilled pineapple and citrus zest. Despite heading towards all-out exoticism, however, the 2016 is corseted and refined, demonstrating a push-pull between juicy, ripe tropical fruits and mineral restraint, suggesting there is much more to come from this wine. The individual base wines were fermented in barriques (30% new) with no malolactic fermentation, then aged on the lees for up to 18 months with occasional batonnage. A final three months on steel was completed before blending and bottling.Decanter | 96 DECThe 2016 Ornellaia Bianco is a beguiling wine, even a bit deceptive when you get down to facts. This is indeed the central part of its irresistible charm. For one, this edition is a mono-variety wine made solely with Sauvignon Blanc. (The other protagonist of the blend, Viognier, is said to return in 2017.) However, the complexity of the bouquet could mistakenly make you think the blend is more intricate. You get white rose, crisp apple, saffron, toasted pine nut, cinnamon and wild sage. The aromas show brilliant detailing. In addition, the wine is expansive and creamy in terms of mouthfeel. However, none of the whites at Ornellaia—including this wine—undergo malolactic fermentation, though the creamy and richly textured mouthfeel might lead you to conclude otherwise. This classic vintage is especially generous and rich. The wine does see barrique aging, but only a third of the wood is new. Those spicy endnotes serve to frame the beautiful fruit that sits squarely at center stage.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2016 Ornellaia Bianco has more nuance, freshness and layers of flavors than the 2015 tasted alongside it. I very much like the delineation and energy that are such signatures of the 2016.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMThe 2016 Ornellaia Bianco looks more mature than the 2015 and Heinz comments that it may have had a little too long in oak - 18months - which was longer than in other vintages. Although 2016 was cooler than 2015 - so you might expect more freshness - it was also much drier than 2015. This 2016 has an orange-gold tone to the color and a slightly, nutty, dried fruit aromatic profile with lightly perfumed spice notes. The texture is great, more of a full, voluptuous style with a medium-long finish. The 2016 is 100% Sauvignon Blanc, perhaps lacking a little freshness and vibrancy, but has a lovely silky weight and a gentle savory finish.The Wine Independent | 93 TWI

This is an absolutely gorgeous expression, very full and generous. The 2016 Syrah Per Sempre spent a little less time in oak compared to other vintages, just 16 months, and the results are excellent. This area’s Syrah always does best in hot years, such as 2009 and 2007, and this vintage is reminiscent of the latter. There is lovely black fruit, surrounded by milled black pepper and hints of charcuterie. The key to hot-vintage Syrah is to keep the extraction low: This wine saw a 20-day maceration period, but still, the Syrah Per Sempre is thick and highly concentrated, and the 15% alcohol content is unmistakable. This would be a perfect accompaniment to a filet mignon and potatoes au gratin. This Syrah is a true standout.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPTua Rita’s 2016 Syrah Per Sempre is fabulous. Crème de cassis, lavender, licorice, plum and blueberry jam are all beautifully delineated. Savory, powerful and also structured, the 2016 has plenty of intensity, but it also is not as dense or obvious as has been the case in the recent past. Readers should be prepared to cellar the 2016 for at least a few years.Vinous Media | 97 VMThis is very exotic and seductive with dark berries, incense, citronelle and hints of sandalwood. Full-bodied, chewy and intense with a powerful palate and a long finish. Very fresh and muscular syrah. Needs three or four years to come around.James Suckling | 96 JSFocused flavors of black cherry, blackberry, licorice and black pepper are wrapped in toasty oak, but this intense red remains balanced and on the elegant side, with a long, fresh and spicy aftertaste. Decant now, or give it a year or two to absorb the oak. Syrah. Best from 2022 through 2032. 250 cases made, 15 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

Offers forthcoming aromas and flavors of blackberry, black currant, licorice, tobacco and vanilla backed by vivid acidity and dusty tannins, with a long, saline finish. Showing enough fruit and structure to absorb the oakiness over time, this is balanced overall and poised for a promising future. Best from 2026 through 2045. 800 cases made, 350 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 98 WS(Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Red) Rich and deeply alluring, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva wafts up to display crushed ashen stone mixed with hints of ginger, dusty florals and black cherry preserves. This is velvety-smooth and pliant in feel, lifted by cooling herbal and mineral tones, as an opulent wave of ripe red and black fruits washes across the palate, leaving a staining of minerals and spice in its wake. It’s long and structured, in need of further time to come fully into focus, yet somehow the 2016 Riserva remains completely fresh, tapering off to inner earth tones and hints of blueberry. Time will reveal further depths. This is an utterly classic Uccelliera Brunello in the making. (Drink between 2024-2034)Vinous Media | 97 VMThe 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a terrific wine: bold, well-defined, powerful and balanced. There are many good things to relate, but the high alcohol content (measured at 15.5%) is the only distraction. This is a trend in the Riserva category in the 2016 vintage. The bouquet shows black cherry, cassis, earth, leather and dried roses. The palate offers soft fruit flavors supported by firm oak tannins. Coming back to the bottle 24 hours later, I found impressive integration and smoothness that took away from that alcohol heat. Production is 9,600 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThis is really polished and refined, yet remains polished and beautiful, with cherries and berries, as well as light hazelnut and walnut undertones. Compact and silky. Drink after 2024, but already so attractive.James Suckling | 95 JS(Uccelliera, Riserva, Riserva, Sangiovese, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, Red) Andrea Cortonesi crafts distinctly umami Brunello from various parcels at diverse altitudes and exposures in the warm reaches of Castelnuovo dell’Abate. After trying the sensuous 2015 Riserva at the estate in September 2021, I was excited to taste the 2016 release. It too is voluptuously shaped yet shored up by sturdy, muscular tannins. Pronounced clove and nutmeg meet prune, dried raspberry and tar. And there is a saline beef broth undertow. While it offers plenty to unpack over the years, I actually prefer to drink Uccelliera’s wines when they are still full of vim and vigour. (Drink between 2023-2031)Decanter | 94 DEC

The 2017 Ornellaia Bianco is a slightly tweaked blend compared to the 2016 and includes a splash of Viognier. The blend is 91% Sauvignon Blanc and 9% Viognier, which is a combination you don’t see often, yet it makes sense, and the Viognier plays the role of Semillon seen in Bordeaux Blanc releases. Coming from a dry, hot year, it has a beautiful bouquet of Meyer lemons, honeysuckle, flowers, and hints of barrique. This carries to a seamless, full-bodied white that’s flawlessly balanced, has a bright core of acidity, ample mid-palate depth, and a great finish. It’s one seriously classy white I’d be thrilled to drink any time over the coming 4-5 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDA really beautiful, layered white with sliced lemons, limes, stones and hints of steel. Some lemon curd. Tight and solid with fine phenolics that give it structure and focus. Extremely poised and dignified. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSThe previous vintage of this wine was made soley with Sauvignon Blanc, but as expected, the Ornellaia 2017 Ornellaia Bianco sees a small percentage of Viognier added to the blend. The exact percentage of the two components is 91% Sauvignon Blanc and 9% Viognier. If you are a fan of these grape varieties, as I am, this wine will appeal to all your basic pleasure points. Showing medium rich concentration and a creamy textural fiber, it reveals some of the weight that we associated with this hot and dry vintage. However, any trace of over-ripeness is mitigated by the cool soils that, in this case, consist of deep calcarious clay broken up by rocks at a breezy 80 to 100 meters above sea level. This consistency is perfect for locking in moisture even in drought vintages. The wine is fermented in oak, but no malolactic fermentation occurs, and the wine instead rests on the fine lees with frequent stirring. Orchard fruits and Cavaillon melon give the wine a sturdy center of gravity. Some 5,000 bottles were made, and this wine was released in April 2020.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2017 Ornellaia Bianco is impressive, especially within the context of the warm, dry year. Bright and focused, the Bianco shows the natural richness of the vintage - that is impossible to escape - but it also retains quite a bit of energy. Orchard fruit, citrus and floral notes are beautifully delineated throughout. Once again, the Bianco is a wine of real distinction.Vinous Media | 94 VMSubtle peach, passion fruit, elderflower and earth flavors converge in this white. There is a touch of oak adding a vanilla accent. Though lush in texture, this is also intense and long, with an echo of passion fruit and salty elements. Drink now through 2024. 75 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

The freshness and the floral aromas with citrus fruit and berries are startling for a 2017. The palate is full and extremely refined with elegant tannins and vivid fruit and orange-peel undertones. Racy and bright at the finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JSHere’s a handsome bottle inside and out. The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Luce is an exuberant and flashy expression of Sangiovese. Just like the etched label design that features sunbeams, the wine radiates fresh fruit, cherry, spice, tar, licorice and grilled herb. The house style favors a contemporary and rich style of Sangiovese, and the wine’s velvety approach is measured against the ample texture and fruit weight presented here. This warm 2017 vintage is well interpreted by the folks at Tenuta Luce (even with that high 15% alcohol). Production is 30,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPGorgeous aromas on the nose, cola, cherries and exotic sweet spices. Lovely intensity straight away, piercing, finely detailed and driven. Wild strawberries, cherries and raspberries combined with dried scrubland mingling together to give both fruit and savoury aspects while the acidity keeps things lifted and bright. I love the freshness with the hit of sweet cherry and cola. Nuanced and giving. Still a touch of wood spice on the finish giving things a piquance and reminding you that this is a 14.5% alcohol wine and is one to be taken seriously. Excellent ageing potential.Decanter | 94 DECUnderbrush, violet and baked plum are some of the aromas you’ll find on this bold red. Big and savory, the warm palate is brawny but polished, offering fleshy black cherry, licorice and tobacco framed in velvety, enveloping tannins. It’s already almost accessible but also offers good midterm aging potential. Drink through 2027.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEA rich red, this boasts cherry, plum, leather, tobacco, bitter almond and herb flavors. Taut and dense, with brisk acidity and dusty tannins that truncate the finish for now. Traditional style. Best from 2025 through 2040. 2,500 cases made, 117 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WSNo written review provided. | 90 W&S

This has been such an exciting addition to the Luciano Sandrone portfolio. The 2018 Barolo Vite Talin is a bigger-styled Barolo with dark fruit, ample oak shadings and generous concentration. Overall, it is a wine of considerable fruit weight, and that richness is reflected in the grippy nature of the young tannins and the very plump and primary nature of the fruit. There is a note of dried Mediterranean herb, or something like a dried chili husk. You need time to tame that bossy tannin. Production is limited to 2,500 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2018 Barolo Vite Talin is a sexy, opulent Barolo. Although the 2018 does not quite have the pedigree of the best years, it comes pretty close. Succulent dark fruit, clove, gravel, mocha and incense are all front and center. This dense yet mid-weight Barolo will drink well with minimal cellaring.Vinous Media | 96 VMA rich style for the vintage, this dense red exhibits cherry, raspberry, earth, leather and wild herb aromas and flavors. Ripe and spicy, with a vibrant structure and a wide swath of tannins on the energetic finish. Still needs time. Best from 2026 through 2043. 208 cases made, 25 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSForest floor, new leather, blue flower and exotic brown spice aromas come to the forefront on the deeply-hued 2018 Vite Talin along with whiffs of crushed mint. Full-bodied and firmly structured, the still rather austere palate offers layers of dried cherry, prune, bitter orange, licorice and tobacco before closing on a note recalling almond liqueur. A backbone of tightly knit, fine-grained tannins provides support. Drink 2028–2038. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOGrown on the top of the Cannubi Boschis vineyard, this wine bowls out of the glass with aromas of black cherry, crushed raspberries, black tea and a melange of spices. Driven, polished and well-crafted, the palate is firm yet the generous fruit shines through as savory herbs and compelling hints of earth peek through, giving insight into how the wine will age. Drink now through 2045.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe aromas of dark fruit, mushrooms, tar and and asphalt come through clearly. It’s medium-bodied with integrated and polished tannins and a savory and juicy finish. Already open and very drinkable, but it will age nicely. Better from 2026 and onward.James Suckling | 94 JS

Very attractive combination of dried fruit and spices with black cherries and plums. Aromas of flowers and sandalwood, too. Full-bodied and very refined, yet intense, with plush, velvety tannins that are wonderfully integrated and intertwined with the fruit. Ripe center palate. Tight at the end, suggesting the need for some serious bottle age. Very structured. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 20th anniversary bottling of Testamatta made, from the 2019 vintage, in brand new winemaking facilities in Florence. This just shines from the moment it’s poured. Layered and complex this is a gem of a wine filled with cherry, raspberry, damson and caramel notes alongside a savoury edge that makes it so moreish. Tannins that support but don’t overwhelm give a nice overall weight to the palate while the flavous linger on the long finish. Made from old vines on stony soils on the Tuscan hilltops. Grapes are selected and sourced from the best five vineyards, which are divided into parcels and harvested up to eight times. Fermentation is in open-top barriques for the smaller parcels and in barrels or stainless steel for the larger ones without any temperature controls. Maceration for 7-10 days then moved into old barriques for 20 months.Decanter | 96 DECA pure expression of Sangiovese, the Bibi Graetz 2019 Testamatta is a wine in constant evolution. Bibi has added 17 more hectares of vineyard to the program, with 12 hectares in Fiesole (north of Florence) and 5 hectares in San Donato in Colle (south of Florence) with 70-year-old vines. The base of the wine sees fruit from old vines planted in the 1950s in the cool-climate Lamole subzone of Chianti Classico. These new terroirs bring a lot more aromatic nuance and complexity to the wine with perfumed blue flower, candied orange peel, wet earth and plumy black fruit. White Alberese soils add a strong chalky mineral signature to the finish of this elegantly streamlined and linear Tuscan red.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPDelicate aromas of red berry, sunbaked earth and dark spice shape the nose along with a whiff of Mediterranean scrub. Bright and elegantly structured, the linear palate features juicy Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry and baking spice framed in polished tannins. Drink through 2029.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEA sleek, well-delineated red, delivering cherry and raspberry flavors on an elegant frame. Fresh, and builds nicely on the mineral- and floral-laced finish. Drink now through 2028. 10,000 cases made, 2,500 cases imported. Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Deep, complex and graceful, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino entices with a cascade of blue and purple flowers, black cherries and hints of Tuscan spice. This is a radiant effort, with a tinge of tangerine up front that gives way to ripe red and black fruits propelled by tantalizing acidity. The 2019 tapers off long and staining, leaving a coating of fine tannins to flex their structural muscle as traces of black raspberry fade slowly. This is a soulful Brunello from start to finish. Beautifully done.Vinous Media | 95 VM