Collector Wines

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Berry, cherry and chocolate on the nose, with hints of spices. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and a spicy, cedary, dark chocolate aftertaste. Very silky and caressing. Grabs your attention. Muscular for Cheval. Overlooked by many Cheval fans.—’88/’98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Drink now. 12,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS(40 h/h; 12.5% alcohol): Bright red. Very pure floral nose with enticing aromas of redcurrant, violet, minerals, licorice, lead pencil and coffee: very cabernet franc! Then linear, pure and juicy, with pristine flavors of red berries, dark plum, minerals and coffee. This midweight finishes clean and smoothly tannic, offering amazing balance and an impression of seamlessness on the long, very floral finish. As much as I like its pure aromas and flavors, I find this Cheval Blanc lacks a little density for an even higher score. This was an overall dry and cool year, with some rain present only in the first part of the year, which caused some mildew pressure. The dry conditions started at the end of July and never really let up; from July to September, there was less than two inches of rain. Flowering was late, taking place on June 10, and veraison on August 20. Harvested during the first ten days of October.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Dark red. One of the evening’s great successes, the 1988 Cannubi Boschis offers an exquisite balance between its evolved aromas of licorice, tar, spices and cocoa and the youthfulness it shows on the palate, where delicate and highly nuanced stewed prune and plum flavors coat the palate with notable vibrancy and freshness. Of the four wines in this flight it is the most expressive Barolo for drinking today and over the next five or so years, and this bottle was pure magic.Vinous Media | 94 VMSandrone is one of the finest producers of Barolo. Fortunately, I still have some bottles of his spectacular 1982 and 1985 in my cellar.The 1988 Cannubi Boschis promises to rival his 1985, but will it be as stunning as his 1982? Traditionally styled, the 1988 is unbelievably intense, with a super nose of damp earth and black fruits. There is sensational chewy, ripe, opulent fruit, softer tannins than many producers appear to have obtained, and a massively long, heady finish. Approachable now, this wine should hit its peak of maturity in 3-4 years and last for up to 15 . Wow!Robert Parker | 93 RP

This wine continues to get better and better and is certainly one of the great successes in what is a profound vintage for Bordeaux. While the wine still tastes young, it is already complex, with so much sweet tannin and lavish fruit that it is impossible to resist, even though it probably will not hit its plateau of maturity for another 5-6 years. A stunning nose of licorice, earth, cedar, Provencal herbs, black currants, asphalt, and cherries soars from the glass. Full-bodied, opulent, with fabulous concentration, a seamless texture, and remarkable stuffing and power, this low-acid, thick, almost viscous wine can be drunk now or cellared for at least another two decades. For trivia buffs, this was the wine President Chirac served former President Clinton when he hosted Clinton in Paris at the famous Parisian bistro L’Ami Louis in June, 1999. I know, because several days later President Chirac gave me the Legion of Honor. In his speech, he acknowledged the fact that President Clinton only wanted to “drink a wine rated highly by Robert Parker.” Anticipated maturity: Now-2020. Last tasted, 9/02.Robert Parker | 96 RPAn estate known for its long ageing, and here it has softened at 31 years old, but still offering silky tannins and autumnal fruits with cedar smoked oak, marzipan, dried leather and gentle truffled spice. A thoroughly enjoyable Gruaud Larose showcasing old-school St-Julien balance. Clear crushed mint leaf on the finish, utterly moreish. 3% Petit Verdot completes the blend; 33% new oak. (Drink between 2021-2035)Decanter | 94 DECBright medium red with a reddish-amber rim. Pungent notes of cinnamon, quinine and rosemary complicate red cherry on the enticing, aromatic nose. Juicy and fresh on the palate, showing good density to the red fruit, peppery plum and herb flavors. Offers very good texture and chewy but noble tannins, with precise mineral-tinged fruit flavors lingering nicely on the peppery, flinty finish. A real step up in concentration from the 1989, and unlike that vintage this will still improve with further bottle age, though it’s drinking well now. Very well done.Vinous Media | 92 VM

An absolutely spectacular Tertre Roteboeuf, probably the only other vintage that will reach this level of quality is the 2000. The 1990 has a deep plum/ruby color with some lightening at the edge and an extraordinarily flamboyant nose of jammy black cherry and berry fruit infused with smoke, caramel, and coffee notes that soar from the glass. This is a very viscous, full-bodied, silky textured wine has a to-die-for finish and enough glycerin and body to get lost. It is just entering its plateau of full maturity. A wow-wow wine! Anticipated maturity: Now-2015. Last tasted, 12/02.Robert Parker | 98 RPDeep red-ruby. Fabulous nose of toffee, coffee, smoke, cinnamon, minerals and a faint animal quality. Extraordinarily thick entry; great density and sweetness but with plenty of underlying acidity and backbone. As with the voluptuous ‘89, there’s lovely delineation of flavor beneath all the glycerine. Finishes with a wave of melting tannins. Kept revealing additional nuances as it opened in the glass. Along with the ’90 L’Angelus, a great example of what can be done with controlled yields, 100% new oak, and - minimal filtration. This wine is now putting most of Bordeaux’s bigger names to shame.Vinous Media | 94 VM

1995 was a warm year and the ripe fruits, with notes of fig and prune, come through strongly on the nose. The palate showcases soft truffles, gentle tobacco and some mushroom notes alongside the ripe fruit. You can feel the warm embrace of those Pomerol tannins, tugging rather than dragging you through the palate. It’s softened so beautifully that it’s fully in its drinking window and should be enjoyed now, although it won’t dip for at least another decade. Drinking Window 2018 - 2030.Decanter | 94 DECFascinating aromas of mineral, lilac and blackberry follow through to a full-bodied palate, with layers of silky tannins and a long finish. Just starting to come around. Give it more time.--’95/’96 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2008.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThe 1995 La Conseillante is now fully mature on the nose with brambly red fruit, black truffle and light copper piping aromas. It still feels cohesive and fresh, although I cannot see it improving with continued bottle age. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly rustic tannin that have softened in recent years. There is a pleasing plumpness to this La Conseillante, although it feels a little simplistic and rough-hewn towards the earthy, clove-infused finish. This is an enjoyable Pomerol but one that I would drink over the next five years. Tasted at La Conseillante vertical at the property.Vinous Media | 91 VM

(Château Pape Clément) It had been several years since I last tasted the 1995 Pape Clément and the wine is showing lovely potential and is now only a few years away from primetime drinking. The deep, soil-driven nose offers up scents of roasted cassis, road tar, cigar smoke, herb tones, a lovely base of soil and a nice touch of cedar. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and just a touch rustic in terms of structure, with a lovely gloss of pure fruit on the attack, a very good core and still a fair bit of firm tannins perking up the long and still fairly youthful finish. This is an old school Pape Clément that fully needs its requisite two decades in the cellar before it starts to really drink at its potential. (Drink between 2015-2045)John Gilman | 91+ JGAromas of blackberry, tobacco and black licorice follow through to a full-bodied palate, with lots of ripe fruit and a chewy, slightly hot finish. Big, muscular wine. Needs time.--'95/'96 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2008.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Amazing aromas of crushed berries and fresh flowers. Full-bodied, with wonderfully velvety tannins and a long, long finish. This wine has wonderful texture and length. What a second wine!--’95/’96 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2008.Wine Spectator | 92 WSDeep ruby-red. Vibrant cassis and licorice aromas. Firmer and fresher than the ’97, with plenty of flesh and backbone. Dense, sweet and deep. Finishes long and subtle. A very strong vintage for this wine.Vinous Media | 91 VMThe dense ruby/purple-colored 1996 Les Forts de Latour is exceedingly tannic, with cassis and mushroom-like notes in the aromatics. This full-bodied wine is impressively constituted and one of the finest Forts de Latours of the last two decades. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2018.Robert Parker | 90 RP

At ten years of age, this remains quite fresh with a lightly spiced, elegant and pure nose of still largely primary earth-suffused red and dark berry fruit aromas that marry into supple, stylish and delicious medium weight plus flavors that possess mouth coating structure on the linear and moderately austere but impressively long finish. The structural elements are notably firm but well-integrated and the overall impression is one of harmony and as such, this should age gracefully for years.Burghound | 93 BHJean-Nicolas Méo’s 1999 Clos Vougeot is a wonderful wine in the making. The deep and pure nose offers up a vibrant blend of black cherries, plums, chocolate, fresh herb tones, incipient notes of venison, a beautiful base of soil, espresso, vanillin oak and a nice touch of smokiness in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very well-balanced, with a sappy core, fine soil inflection, suave tannins and a long, tangy and beautifully focused finish. More complexity is going to emerge here with further bottle age, but the wine has no rough edges today and is already a very tasty bottle. (Drink between 2015 - 2060)John Gilman | 93+ JGRed-ruby. Primary aromas of sappy berries, black cherry, licorice and bitter chocolate. Very fresh and primary in the mouth, with terrific flavor intensity and sucrosity. Dense, lush and vibrant. Finishes with very fine tannins. Perhaps less fat than the Boudot, but more refined.Vinous Media | 91+ VMThe ruby-colored 1999 Clos Vougeot reveals black cherry, spice, and perfumed aromatics. Medium-bodied and rich, it has an excellent depth of fresh, well-ripened cherry fruit. Toasted oak comes out in its supple finish. Drink it over the next 7 years.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 88-90 RP

I do not taste enough mature bottles from Anne Gros. This 2000 Richebourg Grand Cru is delightful, sporting impressive purity on the nose, summer fruit and ember aromas, lightly spiced with perhaps just a hint of VA. The palate is medium-bodied and nicely poised, light in terms of grip for a Richebourg but with good length on the ash-infused finish. Plenty of character and a commendable wine for the vintage. Tasted at La Paulée in Beaune.Vinous Media | 93 VMVery spicy and extremely elegant crushed black fruit and hints of oak toast lead to superbly complex, firm and relatively fine flavors. The palate impression is quite refined and not nearly as robust as classic Richebourg though there is a solid backbone of ripe tannins. Classy, very rich, very complex flavors and a supremely long finish make for a stunner of a wine.Burghound | 93 BHThe 2000 Richebourg from Anne Gros is still on the young side, as is the case with so many of the best grand crus in this vintage. However, as is so often the case with Madame Gros’ wines, the Richebourg is carrying a pretty heavy load of high toast new oak, and while there is probably sufficient stuffing to eventually absorb all the wood, the wine is certainly not better off for its veneer. The bouquet offers up a classy blend of cherries, plums, a bit or raspberry, chocolate, smoke, earth and plenty of new oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, focused and fairly tannic still, with good mid-palate depth, but a rather rigid palate impression today from the oak tannins. I suspect that in another five or six years this will give more pleasure than it does today, as it is a well-made wine from the school of new oak. (Drink between 2012 - 2025)John Gilman | 90+ JG

(Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat Richebourg Grand Cru Red) (with thanks to Dr. Reed Day). While this has certainly matured since I first saw it from bottle in 2004, the original note still largely captures the wine with its deep, complex and spicy old vine aromas that are slightly floral in character. This brilliant introduction is followed by wonderfully harmonious and quite powerful middle weight flavors that are beautifully delineated and perfectly balanced while delivering superb length. In sum, this ultra-pure effort offers reference standard quality with more refinement than young Richebourg usually displays - plus it’s approaching readiness for prime time and could easily be enjoyed now though for my taste another 3 to 5 years would serve it well. Tasted twice in the last few months. (Drink starting 2015)Burghound | 94 BHModerately saturated palish red. Very sexy, open-knit perfume of raspberry, truffle, mulch and menthol. Not a powerhouse but boasts lovely retention of fruit and finesse, with its flavors of strawberry, raspberry, truffle and spices nicely framed by bright acidity. The tannins are still a bit tight but the firmly structured finish displays lovely rising spicy length. This perfumed but youthfully reserved wine should continue to mellow with further time in the cellar.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Gorgeous, a clear step up from the 2000 vintage as it approaches its second decade. This is not quite ready to drink, although a few hours in a decanter could open it up sufficiently. It’s full of intense, tight and spirited black fruits, replete with this château’s signature richness of structure, which seems to ooze naturally through the tannins. There’s a real sense of energy and zest, with liquorice, slate, spice, cassis and black cherry. The second half of August was hotter in 2001 than 2000 in St-Estèphe, and the grapes were left to reach a long, slow maturity. Harvesting did not begin until 1 October when the nights were getting cooler –this will have helped the wine keep its remarkable freshness. Matured in 80% new oak. Drinking Window 2018 - 2040Decanter | 95 DECThe 2001 Cos d’Estournel is blended of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Merlot—a very high percentage of Merlot in this vintage and a very late harvest, which started on October 1st. Deep garnet in color, the nose is singing with savory notes of smoked meats, tapenade, bay leaves and beef drippings with a core of plum preserves, redcurrant jelly, dried cherries and baked blackcurrants with wafts of peppermint tea and dried roses. Medium-bodied, the palate practically tingles with vibrant dried herbs, red fruit preserves and minty notes, structured with firm, finely grained tannins and fantastic freshness, finishing very long and minerally.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2001 Cos d’Estournel has a fresher nose than the 2000, showing more focus and vigor and delivering black cherries mixed with fig, blood orange and light cigar box aromas. Side by side, this is certainly more youthful. The palate is well balanced with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity, and fine grip and freshness. This is still quite tight at 20 years old and would certainly benefit from decanting. Blood orange and a light sprinkling of white pepper appear toward the finish. In this face-off, I have a preference for the 2001 over the 2000.Vinous Media | 93 VMVelvety textured with soft and silky tannins and a chocolate, meat and berry character. Full and round. Slightly forgotten and delicious. Drink now.James Suckling | 93 JSSuave, with a cool, minty hint weaving around the core of mulled red currant, blackberry and plum fruit. Lovely spice, black tea and singed juniper notes are perfectly inlaid throughout, showing a tug of charcoal at the very end.—Blind ’01/’03/’05 Bordeaux retrospective (December 2017). Drink now through 2025. 17,705 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WSNo written review provided. | 91 W&S

Bold and structured red. Dark color; black licorice, raspberry and mineral character and hints of dried flowers; full-bodied, with spicy fruit and undertones of black pepper. Chewy finish. This is fantastic. Best after 2007. 5,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe 2001 Serpico is another wine that appears to need more bottle age. Today it is in an in-between stage where the fruit is no longer primary but the tertiary notes aren’t fully developed either. The 2001 is a powerful Serpico with impressive tannic clout that will require further cellaring to soften. With time, hints of wild cherries, herbs, chocolate and leather emerge but only with great reluctance. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023.Feudi di San Gregorio is one the leading estates in Campania and Italy. Enzo Ercolino spared no expenses in snapping up vineyards and building a state of the art facility that cranks out more than 4 million bottles per year. Along the way Feudi garnered considerable accolades from the press, perhaps too much attention for a winery that was just getting started. Today Feudi is owned and run by the Capaldo family. The estate makes a wide range of whites and reds, but the most consistently outstanding wines are the two Aglianicos; Serpico and the Taurasi Piano di Montevergine. From the outset Serpico was conceived as a more approachable interpretation of Aglianico than Taurasi. The softness of some early vintages suggests other grapes may have been used to help smooth the trademark Aglianico rusticity. The Taurasi di Montevergine was initially made from a number of different parcels although today it is a true single-vineyard wine made from a late-ripening plot that sits at 700 meters above sea level. Over the years, this site has proven to be exceptional in yielding structured Taurasis that at their best capture the full breadth of Aglianico. Consulting oenologist Luigi Moio, who had just returned from a stint in France, made the wines from 1995 through 1998, although he did not see all the wines through to their bottling as he left Feudi in 1999. Moio is one of the key figures in the development of the wines of the south. His consulting projects include Caggiano and Cantina del Notaio, in addition to the superb wines he is making at his own estate, Quintodecimo. At Feudi Moio favored lengthy fermentations often reaching more than 25 days (Moio has since adopted a shorter approach to fermentations with his own wines at Quintodecimo). Malolactic fermentation was done in steel. Moio used 100% new oak for Serpico and 60% new oak for the Piano di Montevergine. Oenologist Riccardo Cotarella made the wines between 1999 and 2006. Cotarella is another seminal figure in Campania, as he pioneered Montevetrano and Terra di Lavoro - two wines that were groundbreaking when they were conceived and that continue to set a high bar for the region - as well as Feudi’s 100% luxury Merlot cuvee, Patrimo. Cotarella preferred shortish macerations. After the alcoholic fermentation was completed, the wines were racked into oak until spring, when they were moved into steel for the malolactic fermentations. The wines were then moved back into oak, where they completed their aging. Cotarella favored 100% new oak for both Serpico and Piano di Montevergine. Since 2006 Feudi has moved most of its winemaking in house and relied less on outside consultants.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RPThe 2001 Serpico is another wine that appears to need more bottle age. Today it is in an in-between stage where the fruit is no longer primary but the tertiary notes aren’t fully developed either. The 2001 is a powerful Serpico with impressive tannic clout that will require further cellaring to soften. With time, hints of wild cherries, herbs, chocolate and leather emerge but only with great reluctance.Antonio Galloni | 92+ AG

Good bright dark red. Lively aromas of plum, violet, espresso and underbrush; a bit more primary than the Suchots. Impressively concentrated, dense and sweet, with vibrant red fruit and spice flavors. Impeccably balanced, generous 2001, finishing with superb sweetness and breadth. This, too, should reward several years of aging but is fat and pliant already.Vinous Media | 93 VMThis too is reference standard RSV with its wonderfully seductive panoply of spice and fresh crushed herb notes that seamlessly merge with rich, powerful yet refined flavors that pack plenty of punch and length. The length here is simply phenomenal and this is without question the finest wine in the line-up. In short, this is a compelling wine that is endowed with the potential to become a genuinely great wine. Burghound | 92-95 BHFloral, elegant, silky. Full-bodied, a lovely red Burgundy, with smoke, blackberries, black cherries and raspberries swirling around, seducing from start to finish. Clean, pure, long, balanced finish.Wine Spectator | 91 WSSugar-coated creamy red fruits and flowers are found in the aromatic profile of the 2001 Romanee-St.-Vivant. Armed with wonderful depth of fruit, it is medium-bodied, silky-textured, and offers loads of red cherry fruit. An elegant, concentrated wine, it is well-structured and lengthy.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-93 RP