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Here’s a wine I am very excited to taste, given the phenomenal performance of this vintage in the annata version released last year. The Gianni Brunelli Le Chiuse di Sotto 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva reproduces that same brilliant intensity and deep inner brightness, only this Riserva has seen one more year of aging, and it shows more spice and thicker textural heft as a result. This wine is penetrating and layered with a harmonious playlist of red and purple fruits, spice, tar, cola, licorice and grilled herb. The tannins are more austere in the case of this 2,993-bottle release, and you’d do well to age it longer before popping the cork. I love the spontaneous radiance and energy captured by this estate, especially in 2016.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPGianni Brunelli’s Riserva is built from the Olmo vineyard in Montalcino’s southeast. Reaching 500 metres on stony soil, this warm site is the first to be picked by the estate. A small portion of the northeast-facing Le Chiuse di Sotto vineyard is added for freshness and aromatic lift. Heady and inviting, the 2016 presents ripe florals of mint blossom, peony and allspice on a nutty, truffly backdrop. It is iron-edged and succulent on the palate. The tannins are steely yet supple, ultimately clinging gracefully to fresh red cherry and blueberry. Tarragon resounds on the finish. Thrillingly tense.Decanter Magazine | 98 DECSurprisingly, the 2016 Gianni Brunelli Brunello di Montalcino Riserva has a more open, accessible nose than the 2016 Brunello ‘annata’ with layers of citrus fruit, blood orange, blue flowers and red cherry aromas. This is a very complete wine with great depth and concentration of flavor yet without ever being heavy. It wears its concentration so well. There is a great density of silty, chalky tannins on the finish and the wine still feels so young. The texture, weight, harmony, and balance are all terrific! In fact, this wine epitomizes harmony, with a range of dark fruit which is very classical in delivery. Dried orange peel, citrus and bitter herb, Negroni-like aromas and flavors are set like jewels in a velvety texture.The Wine Independent | 98-100 TWIThe deep, sensual 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva wafts up with spice-dusted cherries, sweet herbs and hints of flowery undergrowth. It fills the senses with rich yet tart black raspberries and exotic spice, along with a hint of citrus that sends sparks across the palate, creating a pliant yet nicely chiseled effect. The 2016 tapers off like a black hole of structure, turning quite savory but with a coating of fine tannin that seems to devour the coating of primary fruits beneath it. Masses of tobacco and brown spice linger. The sheer density, amazing minerality and balanced acidity make the 2016 Riserva an extremely exciting wine.Vinous Media | 97+ VMA beefy, muscular style, this red features black cherry, blackberry and plum fruit shaded by earth, iron and spice flavors. Reveals a tangy edge, partly from the bracing acidity, with wild herb and savory notes on the lingering finish. Best from 2026 through 2045. 271 cases made, 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSCherries and dried flowers on the nose with some sandalwood. Some chocolate, too. It’s full-bodied, yet tight and compact, with firm and fine tannins and a long, flavorful finish. Racy and savory. Really delicious already, but will repay patience for three or four years.James Suckling | 96 JSFull-bodied and savory, this offers aromas of new leather, camphor, mature dark-skinned fruit and cedar. The firmly structured palate delivers dried Marasca cherry, blood orange, mocha and licorice framed in tightly wound, close-grained tannins. Drink 2028–2036. Kerin O’Keefe | 96 TWIFull-bodied and savory, this offers aromas of new leather, camphor, mature dark-skinned fruit and cedar. The firmly structured palate delivers dried Marasca cherry, blood orange, mocha and licorice framed in tightly wound, close-grained tannins. Drink 2028–2036.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WE

Tension of raw material and compactness for a Brunello for years an embodiment of balance and elegance. Juniper and eucalyptus aromas, with sensations of dogwood and dill jam. The taste is savoury and compact, with great balsamic chime and nuances of small fruits.Luca Gardini | 100 LGSo perfumed and seductive on the nose, with black cherries, minerals and rose petals that follow through to a medium body with ultra-fine tannins. Its finesse and vision tell you why Brunello is great. Long, vivid and beautifully balanced. Already a joy to taste, but best after 2027.James Suckling | 99 JSLavender, eucalyptus, dark spice, new leather and juniper berry aromas shape the beautiful nose on the 2021 Fuligni Brunello. All about class and finesse, the palate boasts great intensity, delivering ripe Marasca cherry, blood orange, star anise and rosemary alongside vibrant acidity. Taut, refined tannins lend support. While incredibly tempting, this is still young so give it time to reach its full potential. Drink 2031–2041. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOThe Fuligni 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is an elegant expression with layers of dark fruit and blackcurrant that give way to pressed rose, grilled herb and petrichor, recalling rocks bathed in hot sunlight. The wine is chiseled and refined, owing to the classic nature of the vintage and the restrained, non-extractive house style that distinguishes Fuligni, a historic estate based just outside the village of Montalcino on higher-elevation sites. The wine shows precision with fine tannic tension and a linear, poised finish, making it an ideal match for traditional Tuscan dishes such as pappardelle al cinghiale or grilled lamb with rosemary. The wine ages for three years in Slavonian oak casks and tonneaux, resulting in a production of 30,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino mixes crushed violets and roses with nuances of sour citrus and wild berries to form its alluring bouquet. A model of purity, it is surprisingly lifted yet silken in feel, with pretty red berry fruits swirling across a tactile mineral core. Sweet tannins and a staining of primary concentration remain, finishing long and balanced with a pleasantly chewy sensation that lingers. While already appealing, the 2021 will require cellaring to soften the blow.Vinous Media | 95 VMFragrant notes of red fruits, flowers and citrus announce an elegant, admirably balanced silhouette with authoritative stature. The wine’s textural compactness, measured personality and stylistic consistency are convincing. This noble family has cultivated vines in Montalcino for over 100 years. The 15 hectares of vineyards, mainly around the estate’s centre to the east of Montalcino, are 380-450 metres above sea level.Decanter Magazine | 95 DEC

Without taking anything away from owner Alessandro Mori, it seems that since his son Iacopo joined him in the cellar in 2019, Il Marroneto’s wines have achieved even greater precision. Perhaps it is the result of having another equally meticulous pair of hands. Whatever the reason, this 2021 could be the estate’s best classic Brunello so far – definitely on a par with the Madonna delle Grazie bottling. Perfumes of rose, peony, lavender and lilac unfold from a sweet, earthy backdrop. It floats effortlessly yet with ample depth of dark red cherry and raspberry flavour. Juicy orange rings from the core. Exquisitely refined, suede-like tannins are long and silky, though denser than usual, while piercing minerality prolongs the finish. Drinkability that is delectably within reach.Decanter Magazine | 98 DECA dark and complex wine with aromas of black cherries, cherry pits, dried flowers, licorice and hints of leather and intoxicating violets. There is elegance as well as depth. Medium- to full-bodied with great density and concentration, sleek tannins of outstanding ripeness, graceful acidity and a super-polished finish. Licorice aftertaste. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino wafts up with an exotic blend of crushed sour cherries and dried violets complemented by cedar spice box and nuances of incense. It is seamless and silken in feel, displaying notable weight while also coming across as graceful and refined, with a remarkably pretty blend of wild strawberries and a crunch of minerality. A raspberry sauce concentration and sour citrus twang remain as edgy tannins linger, offset by a bump of riveting acidity. This is a fantastic vintage for Il Marroneto’s Brunello, here taking on a level of complexity and concentration I usually associate with the Madonna delle Grazie.Vinous Media | 97 VMIl Marroneto’s 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is immediately captivating, showing lift and verticality that sets it clearly apart, with bright cherry fruit, grenadine and grilled watermelon underscored by an energetic, punchy edge. There is an appealing sweetness to the aromatics alongside hints of white peppercorn and pressed violet, with lifted tones that flirt with volatility yet remain controlled, carried by remarkably soft and polymerized tannins. The 2021 is distinctly austere and complex, etched with mineral precision and built with multiple layers stacked one atop another, gaining depth rather than breadth. Before fermentation is complete, the cap is soft and malic acid is not yet developed, and the wine is racked with residual sugar (from six to 10 grams per liter). The skins are pressed at 350 atmospheres in a vertical press, and the free-run juice is combined with the must to complete fermentation very slowly, over many months, bubbling happily along. It ages in oak botti for 42 months. This is a release of 22,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPSpicy and floral, with a mineral graphitic tinge, the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino offers a youthful look ahead to what is likely to shape up to be another fantastic vintage for Montalcino. It is plush, yet is pinned together with lifted acidity, and while there is significant baby fat at this stage, it offers a lot of immediate pleasure.Jeb Dunnuck | 93-95 JD

A sleek and graceful wine with aromas of Parma violets, licorice, red fruit and a touch of mint. Full-bodied, it shows elegant tannins with freshness and well-tamed power. Amazing length, with a polished cherry pit aftertaste. Drinkable now, but intended for aging. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 98 JSA layered and complex expression, the Pieve Santa Restituta 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille combines dark fruit and oak with a deep plummy core accented by delicate hints of exotic spice. A precise mineral line runs through the wine and leads to fine, powdery tannins. The overall profile remains tightly wound at this young stage and will benefit from time to settle into a more integrated and complete expression. Sugarille is known to make wines with a subtle sweet-edged richness and supple yet structured tannins, shaped by soils rich in galestro and white clay that lend both age-worthy structure and mineral complexity. Production totals 9,500 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille bursts from the glass with masses of thyme, incense, rosemary and cedar before giving way to dried strawberries. It presents a subtle inner sweetness and elegant texture, coming across as weighty yet refined, with polished red berry fruits swirling throughout and leaving a bitter licorice tinge to linger on the palate. A complex web of fine-grained tannins flexes on the palate as a tart wild berry saturation lingers incredibly long. The 2021 is youthfully dense and tightly wound today, with the balance for a long and glorious evolution.Vinous Media | 96+ VMThe 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino Sugarille was also resting in concrete when I tasted it in November of 2024. (The blend was completed in July.) It displays a darker red color and is deeper and more layered on the nose, with darker cherry fruit liqueur, sappy herbs, and fresh earth. It’s juicy and ripe at this early stage, with very nice balance, ripe tannins, a full, rounded feel, and a deeper mineral richness.Jeb Dunnuck | 95-97 JD

Here is another masterpiece from vintner Martino Manetti (and winemaker Paolo Salvi, following in the footsteps of long-time key figures Giulio Gambelli and Estate Manager Bruno Bini). The Montevertine 2022 Le Pergole Torte is 100% Sangiovese made in a similar winemaking style as the others, although both botte and barrique are used here. It opens to a dark garnet appearance that is velvety and rich yet shiny on the inside with a ruby brightness that is specific to this Tuscan grape. This is an amazing wine, so precise and balanced. I love the boldness of the vintage, and I am delighted by how elegantly it unfolds over the palate. The wine is contoured and pretty in terms of texture, and yet there are mineral notes that add freshness and vertical lift. This portfolio offers good scale with three wines, an entry-level, middle-level and top-end wine, each offering a distinct identity. Production is 30,000 bottles. This is one of my favorite wines from 2022, a vintage with highs and lows. This is definitely a high.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPA spicy and deep wine with licorice and bergamot aromas. The fruit is bright and layered, with plums and red cherries. But it’s on the palate where you feel the quality of this wine. It’s full-bodied with ripe, velvety tannins and long, refreshing acidity. Polished aftertaste. Made for the long haul, but also very drinkable now. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2022 Le Pergole Torte is every bit as magnificent as it was last year. Deep and expansive in the glass, with stunning depth, the 2022 stains the palate with layers of dark fruit, mocha, new leather and cedar. The 2022 starts to blossom with just a bit of time in the glass, leading to a finish that explodes on the back end. As has been the case for some time, the differences between Montevertine and Pergole Torte are increasingly mostly about style. The 2022 spent a year in Damy French oak barrels followed by a second year in cask. It will require a number of years to shed some baby fat to be at its most expressive.Vinous Media | 97+ VM