Collector Wines

wines

The harvest at Petrus took place between September 27 and October 12, and the 2010 finished at 14.1% natural alcohol, which is slightly lower than the 2009’s 14.5%. The 2010 reminds me somewhat of the pre-1975 vintages of Petrus, a monster-in-the-making, with loads of mulberry, coffee, licorice and black cherry notes with an overlay of enormous amounts of glycerin and depth. Stunningly rich, full-bodied and more tannic and classic than the 2009, this is an awesome Petrus, but probably needs to be forgotten for 8-10 years. It should last at least another 50 or more.Someone told me recently that Petrus had a second wine, so I asked Olivier Berrouet, their young, talented administrator, whether that was true, and he flatly denied it, so if any Asian wine buyers are running across second wines of Petrus in Hong Kong or on mainland China, be warned – they are not genuine. Proprietor Jean Moueix, who I believe is in his late twenties, has taken over for his father, Jean-Francois, who has largely retired, and the younger Moueix has really pushed quality even higher at this renowned estate. Anyone visiting Pomerol would have undoubtedly noticed the renovations at Petrus, as it was once one of the most modest and humble buildings in the appellation. Moreover, I suspect that multi-millionaire/billionaire collectors will have about 50 years to debate over which vintage of Petrus turns out better, the 2009 or 2010. In a perfect world, most people would love to have a few bottles of each, or at least the opportunity to taste them once in a while, as they have become more of a myth than something real, but these wines do, in fact, exist!Robert Parker | 100 RPThis a Petrus with extraordinary balance and depth. It shows such elegance in the nose with complexity of black olives, dark fruits, and flowers. The palate is full and ultra-velvety yet there is a cashmere quality to the texture. It takes your breath away. There’s almost a Burgundian quality in the mouthfeel meaning it takes you deep into the soil and captivates your attention. Greatest modern vintage of Petrus ever? Try after 2018.James Suckling | 100 JSThe 2010 Petrus has an extraordinary bouquet, ineffably complex with brambly red fruit, sous-bois, dried blood and wild mint aromas that unfurl magically from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fleshy and generous, yet amazingly controlled with such tension and grace on the silky smooth finish. This is a fantastic Petrus, one of the greatest in recent years. Tasted from an ex-château bottle at the BI Wines & Spirits 10-Year On tasting.Vinous Media | 98 VMMaybe surprising to see a Pomerol that is so well-built that it is not anywhere near ready even at 10 years old, but this is Pétrus, a place that writes its own rules. The brushed silk exuberance is there, but hidden underneath a still-pulsating wall of tannins. You expect this level of concentration in Pauillac, so it is more of a surprise on the Right Bank, but here you are in no doubt that 2010 is an intellectual, demanding vintage that needs to be given time. You need to look to 2009 Pétrus to begin enjoying any time soon - this is structured, full of dark fruits, structured, savagely built, out to impress. Drinking Window 2025 - 2050Decanter | 98 DECThis feels dense and unyielding now, with loads of grip supporting a dark, muscular and very backward core of bay leaf, tobacco, plum, blackberry and fig notes. Powerful, fresh and racy, with a tarry edge adding vivacity and drive to the lengthy, raspberry-dominated finish. The raspberry spine seems destined to win out after extended cellaring. Best from 2017 through 2035. 2,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WSHugely full-bodied wine, with the ripest fruit, black plum juice and spice. The tannins are very dense, balanced of course with acidity. The end is beautiful, structured.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WE(Château Pétrus) The 2010 Château Pétrus is one of the two top wines of the vintage on the Right Bank, but it is not quite in the same celestial league as the magical 2009 vintage here. The wine is very ripe at 14.5 percent, but shows no signs of overripeness in its powerful aromatic blend of black cherries, plums, tobacco smoke, a touch of black olive, lovely soil tones and a discreet base of new oak. The team at Château Pétrus once again used only fifty percent new wood for the 2010- an example that I wish more of the top estates would follow. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and powerful, with ripe, substantial tannins, a rock solid core of fruit, great focus and superb length and grip on the very well-balanced and pure finish. Given the octane level here, it is rather amazing how well this wine has retained its precision, but I have little doubt that Monsieur Berrouet would like nothing better than to always end up with a Pétrus under fourteen percent in alcohol. A very, very good result that underscores just how difficult it was this year on the Right Bank to manage alcohol levels. (Drink between 2025-2100)John Gilman | 95+ JG

The 2021 L’Apparita is sublime. A wine of compelling inner perfume and exotic richness, the 2021 is shaping up to be one of the great L’Apparitas. Inky dark fruit, espresso, licorice, lavender and crushed rocks abound in a towering, statuesque wine that will absolutely thrill those lucky enough to own it. It perfectly embodies all the greatest qualities of this historic vintage.Vinous Media | 100 VMAlways one of the greatest Merlots from Italy, the gorgeous 2021 L’Apparita is all about finesse, starting with its enticing aromas of lavender, Mediterranean scrub, graphite, licorice and red berry. It’s also incredibly delicious, with layers of ripe raspberry, bitter orange, cocoa and vanilla wrapped up in smooth, velvety tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. What a beauty. Drink through 2041. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOThis shows so much depth and intensity, with a beautiful nose of dark fruit, walnuts, licorice, iodine and seashells. Some wood showing now. Pure and structured. It shows both richness and freshness, with a full body and a compact, seamless tannin structure. Need time to soften. Try after 2028.James Suckling | 97 JSOne of Italy’s most collected Merlots, the Castello di Ama 2021 L’Apparita opens to a rich and inky-dark appearance. Very true to the grape, this vintage hits impeccable ripeness with soft cherry intensity and spice that is padded by extra textural fiber. Like always, this wine is especially successful in terms of mouthfeel and finish. The bouquet has ripe fruit, softly toasted spice and a hint of olive tapenade. It is quite the mouthful.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPExpressive and racy, this red features cherry, black currant, violet, green olive, cedar, stone and sweet spice aromas and flavors. Vibrant and firm, with savory elements of Tuscan scrub. Needs time to shed its tannins, but the length reveals its potential. Best from 2027 through 2045. 950 cases made, 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WS