Collector Wines

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The 2021 Bolgheri Superiore Guado al Tasso is a very beautiful wine, but also quite a departure from the style that made it famous years ago. Readers will find an especially polished Guado al Tasso, a wine that emphasizes finesse more than power. Silky tannins wrap around a core of black cherry fruit, licorice, spice, mocha and new leather. Bright, saline undertones extend the exquisite finish. There’s more Cabernet Franc in the blend these days, and that very much comes through in the wine’s crazy aromatic presence and feel. The 2021 spent 16 months in wood, three months in used French oak barrels during the malolactic fermentation and then 14 months in barrel (80% new) for the rest of its aging. Gorgeous.Vinous Media | 98 VM

100 Points, Jane Anson, InsideBordeaux.com: "Just love this wine, the lyricism and the generosity of it, and its always vivid depiction of fruits and stones. So juicy, so drawn out, works with the vintage, leans into its low yields, with greengages, raspberry, plum, gentle spices, lemongrass, minerality studded with mandarin peel and sage. Translucent and yet full of flavour, once again it begs you to draw up a chair, gather friends, and enjoy. What a brilliant wine and a brilliant winemaker in Bibi Graetz. From a 58ha estate, Colore comes from the oldest vineyards of Sangiovese that range up to 135 years old." 03/23Jane Anson | 100 JAIntense aromas of purple fruits such as raspberry, spice, lead pencil and granite. Perfumed flowers as well. Full-bodied, tight with poised tannins that show transparency and focus. Crunchy and very long. Better after 2028 when it opens and integrates beautifully.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2021 Colore, 100% Sangiovese, is medium garnet-purple in color. After a little swirling, a glorious perfume of raspberry coulis, Morello cherries, and rose oil emerges from the glass, followed by hints of cinnamon toast, Sichuan pepper, and underbrush. The medium-bodied palate is coated with vibrant red berry and floral layers, framed by exquisitely ripe, fine-grained tannins and bold freshness, finishing epically long and fragrant. This is absolutely stunning!The Wine Independent | 99 TWISeductive and layered, the 2021 Colore is also entirely Sangiovese, coming from 100-year-old vines. It pours a rich magenta/ruby hue and reveals pure and luxurious aromas of black cherry liqueur, fresh lavender, polished leather, cedar, and sweet sage. Medium to full-bodied, it’s chiseled and well-defined, with refined, plush tannins, harmonious depth, and an extraordinarily long finish that slowly tapers. This is a stunning wine from Bibi Graetz that will only improve with proper cellar time. It’s remarkable. Drink 2027-2050.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDProduction of Colore in 2021, like Testamatta, was down slightly on 2020, with around 30,000 bottles produced, due to the decision to drop 20% of the fruit in the vineyard. ‘2021 was a really hot vintage,’ said Bibi, ‘but with all this fantastic selection, the wines were perfect.‘ While earlier vintages of Testamatta included some old-vine fruit, Bibi now reserves all old vines for Colore. Vinification is very similar to Testamatta – fermentation in open-top French oak barriques, 50hl casks and stainless steel tanks depending on the size of the parcel; malo in old barriques and casks; but ageing for Colore is in used French oak barriques rather than a mixture of barrique, tonneau and stainless steel. The combination of reduced yields, the inclusion for the first time of some north-slope fruit, and the new winery in Fiesole has seen a step-change in quality: Colore 2021 is incredibly energetic, with ripe red and black fruit aromas and a balsamic waft leading to a fleshy palate showcasing sweet and sapid raspberry, cherry and pomegranate. Fine, integrated tannins and zesty acidity really help to drive this wine forward, with a really long, stony and cool menthol finish. Superb.Decanter Magazine | 98 DECFrom one of my personal favorite vintages comes the Bibi Graetz 2021 Colore. This Sangiovese-based wine offers vertical intensity, energy and remarkable freshness. It also shows a polished quality to the palate that translates into a long, finely tuned finish. There is plenty of berry fruit and balance, yet the wine shows enough structure to pair with roast duck breast or guinea fowl.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe nose asserts aromas of dark fruit and berries, with rubbery, slightly smoky notes drifting around the edges. A juicier, denser berry streak defines the satiny palate, while bitter undertones of orange and chocolate provide structure. Firm, taut tannins emerge on a warm finish. Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEPure and elegant, offering a beam of cherry, strawberry, pomegranate, rose and mineral aromas and flavors. This harmonious version builds in intensity to the long, fruit-filled finish, where a hint of blood orange peeks through. Sangiovese. Drink now through 2037. 480 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSHauntingly dark and alluring, the 2021 Colore entices with a blend of dusty violets and lavender, giving way to dried blueberries and sweet smoke. It washes across the palate with textures of pure silk, finessed and lifted in feel, with depths of tart wild berry fruit that saturate. Brisk acidity adds balance, and hints of licorice form toward the close. While firm, the 2021’s tannins are crunchy and crisp, adding structural tension without taking away from its undeniably pretty persona. This finishes with outstanding length and a sour cranberry tinge that puckers the cheeks. The future is bright, but patience is required.Vinous Media | 94 VM

Super-restrained nose here with candied lemon and lemon bush, tuberose, peach kernel and integrated toastiness. Full body with amazing weight and concentration, yet with vibrant, lemony flavor, zesty and integrated acidity and a warming but balanced finish. Drinkable now, but with aging potential of more than 10 years.James Suckling | 97 JSFor the first time, Ornellaia Bianco becomes a Bolgheri DOC wine in the 2021 vintage. It’s again 100% Sauvignon Blanc, vinfied in a mixture of 300L and 500L amphorae, barriques and tonneaux, with only 25% new wood. Perfumed, exotic, stony and honeyed, it’s nonetheless a vertical and focussed wine, its structure constraining rich aromas and flavours of mango, peach, white flowers, orange peel, papaya and passion fruit. It does feel like it’s being held back, with a touch of austerity and that stony, mineral authority that makes it a necessity to drink with food. ‘It has much more vibrancy than in the past...a better defined character than when the project began,’ notes Marco Balsimelli.Decanter | 96 DECPreviously a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier, the Ornellaia 2021 Ornellaia Bianco is now all Sauvignon Blanc. The estate recently planted Semillon, so it is possible that we will one day see that grape in the blend (especially because it is known to thrive in hot vintages). This wine plays its best cards in terms of texture. It sports broad shoulders and enough texture to support those many creamy citrus and delicately tropical flavors. A dusting of crushed stone adds elegance. The wine should show its best results in five to 10 years from now.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2021 Ornellaia Bianco is alluring. I sense a bit more textural richness vis-à-vis prior editions, a positive in my book. White pear, jasmine, sage, mint, white pepper, peach and apricot fill out the layers. Light tropical accents appear with some aeration, adding a tropical flair that is quite attractive. This is impeccably done.Vinous Media | 95 VMVerging on creamy in texture, this silky white features floral, peach, sage and mint flavors, with a flash of grapefruit pith. Complex, balanced and long, with a salty component on the persistent aftertaste. Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now through 2030. 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

Wow. The aromas are really something else with red fruits, black olives, spices like cardamon and nutmeg, as well as hints of tar and meat. It’s full-bodied yet in check and focus with fine, fine tannins that roll over the palate and create beautiful motion. Chewy yet silky and endless. A great young merlot and one of the best for a number of years. Try after 2028.James Suckling | 99 JSTua Rita’s flagship bottling is pure Merlot from Colline Metallifere, matured for 18 to 20 months in new French oak barriques. There’s chocolatey richness here but also fragrance, with some violet, plum and blue fruit scents. In the mouth its super-fresh, saline acidity invites an intense attack of spiced plum, blackberry and damson along with white pepper and clove, leading to a plush, velvety mid-palate with cocoa and wood lingering in the background and supported by fine, well-integrated tannins. Concentrated, vibrant and saline, this is an extraordinary Merlot with a gastronomic edge.Decanter Magazine | 98 DECPutting aside the thrashing Merlot got from Hollywood, there is in fact good reason to be skeptical of Merlot thanks to its general mistreatment from winemakers far and wide, apart from the heaviest of heavy hitters who made a few expressions that became the ultimate exceptions to the rule. But I always love an underdog story, and I love Merlot from southwest Tuscany, especially Redigaffi. Wine Enthusiast | 98 WEThe 2021 Redigaffi is superb. Silky, dense and expansive, with terrific depth, it possesses striking nuance from start to finish. Black cherry, plum, espresso, licorice and menthol infuse the 2021 with tons of resonance. Here, too, the approach is quite a bit dialed back from the early days.Vinous Media | 97 VMThe Tua Rita 2021 Redigaffi is a wine of thick character and dark extraction. This 100% expression of Merlot offers tension and extreme balance with very generous layers of dark cherry, plum, dried blackberry, spice and tobacco. It displays a spectacularly soft and velvety texture over a full-bodied approach. Redigaffi is often monolithic and monotone in its younger years, and it needs more bottle age to come into focus. This is very true for the 2021 vintage.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPExuding black currant, blackberry, plum and iron flavors, this sleek version is also powerful, with beefy tannins, yet it’s the vivid acidity that drives the long, toasty oak–infused aftertaste in the end. Merlot. Best from 2027 through 2043. 1,250 cases made, 360 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS