Cote de Beaune Wines

wines

The 2022 Corton-Charlemagne from Rapet is magnificent – serious, but not forbidding. The aromas range from lemon peel to passionfruit and green apple, adorned with hints of hawthorn and spice and underpinned by a firm, saline minerality. The wine is slow to open on the palate, with abundant extract, lively acidity, and an interminably long finish. The grapes are from two parcels of old vines (among some replanting), totalling three hectares. The vines span En Charlemagne (Pernand) and Le Charlemagne (Aloxe), where the Ladoix limestone breaks through the surface of the thin Pernand marls.Decanter | 95 DECAnother strong performance from Rapet, the 2022 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with aromas of pear and crisp orchard fruit mingled with toasted nuts, white flowers and waxy citrus rind. Medium to full-bodied, layered and textural, with a glossy, concentrated profile, excellent underlying cut and a long, mineral finish, it’s a very good wine that still flies somewhat under the radar.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPThe 2022 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru has a very terse nose. It opens with struck flint—quite a bit of reduction here—and a very light fish scale scent in the background that imparts complexity. The palate is well balanced, with a slightly creamy-textured opening, flavors of chamomile and lemon curd and a fine bead of acidity. Impressive substance comes through on the finish. Give this two to three years in bottle. Tasted at merchants’ 2022 Burgundy tastings in London.Vinous Media | 93 VM90% is from the Pernand. Side, a third old vines, a third 20 year old, a third 35 year old. And guess what, the youngest are in the worst condition. Some tressed, some worked by winch. Pale colour, a beautifully mineral nose, properly shows its terroir. The wine picks up speed further back on the palate, opening out very nicely. Very attractive. Drink from 2029-2037. Tasted: October 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-96 JMThis is aromatically pretty similar to the Sous Frétille but with more citrus and slightly more evident wood influence. On the palate there is more size and weight to the rich and generously proportioned larger-bodied flavors that display solid power on the youthfully austere, balanced and very dry finale. Like several of the wines the range, this needs better depth but that’s often the case with CC in its youth.Burghound | 92 BH

Nicely broad and rich in aromas but kept refined and elegant in the Drouhin style, with fresh apples, crisp pears, minerals and a hint of butter. This has the purity and polish of the appellation and is tempting to drink now. Best after 2027.James Suckling | 94 JSRich, expressive and balanced, with a light texture to its peach, apple, butter and oak spice flavors. The lingering finish echoes oak spice and apple accents. Drink now through 2027. 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WSThere is a hint of liqueur-like quality to the aromas of pear and apple compote, hazelnut and a plethora of pretty floral nuances. The succulent and caressing medium-bodied flavors possess a gorgeous mouthfeel that delivers even better depth and persistence on the balanced finish that isn’t quite as dry. This is terrific for its level and strongly recommended.Burghound | 91 BHThe 2022 Meursault Village delivers aromas of honeyed pears, toasted nuts, white flowers and peach, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and suave palate of impressive length and structure. Like its Puligny counterpart, this will show well young.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RPMade up from 16 different plots. A pale lemon colour. The nose is undemonstrative but one senses the concentration behind. Indeed, the fruit builds to the back of the palate with a little ripe citrus and correct acidity. Fine length, a little more interest than the very capable Puligny. Drink from 2029-2034. Tasted: November 2023.Jasper Morris | 89-91 JMThe 2022 Meursault Village was picked from August 22 until September 10, depending on where the fruit is sourced (from 16 batches), though blending only takes place before racking. Following Drouhin’s other whites, I can imagine the nose will have broad appeal, offering touches of white peach and orange pith, more floral than the Puligny Village. The palate is well-balanced with good weight. It’s not complex per se and quite linear towards the finish that needs a little more intricacy.Vinous Media | 88-90 VM

Aromas and flavors of white flowers, citronella and hazelnut cream abound, backed by lively acidity. Lip-smacking and fresh, this white persists on the toasty, smoky finish. Drink now through 2028. 1,606 cases made, 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSFresh pale lemon. The bouquet is about elegance and finesse rather than weight. Fresh fruit on the palate, citrus and apple, white fruit behind, balanced and very long. Very Chevalières in style, even if unlike the Meursaults of yesteryear. All good, because this a substantial cuvee of 50+ barrels. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted: December 2023.Jasper Morris | 91 JMThe 2022 Meursault Les Chevalières is matured in 25% new oak 350-liter barrels in order to reduce the wood impact. It is taut and focused on the nose, quite understated at first, with touches of almond and hazelnut. The palate is well-balanced, with impressive concentration on the entry. Quite spicy on the mid-palate with tangy marmalade and ginger, this fans out in a pleasing fashion towards the finish.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

Lucie Coutoux explained that although La Maltroie and Champgains (as they spell it) are roughly the same elevations on the band of premier crus, there is more limestone in Champgains that gives a bigger wine. In 2022, this shows ripe notes of passionfruit and lime peel with an accent of hazelnut and hay. The texture is supple and rich, almost fat, but pleasantly so. The grapes are from the domaine’s parcel of 0.44 hectares at the top of the slope.Decanter | 94 DECA glowing pale lemon yellow. There is a clear white fruit charm to this, a little more chiselled than the softly welcoming Chenevottes, with a limestone length and purity at the finish. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted: October 2023.Jasper Morris | 92 JM

The 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos de la Maltroie 1er Cru is actually more backward on the nose compared to the Village Cru, tightly coiled with mineral-driven, malic fruit. The palate is well balanced with neatly integrated oak on the entry. Fresh and saline, there’s ample grip toward the finish, with just a touch of grilled walnut and fine length. Excellent. Tasted at merchants’ 2022 Burgundy tastings in London.Vinous Media | 93 VMAn attractive mid lemon. Slightly yellower fruit. Good acidity with a leaner style of fruit. Maltroie rarely shines in its youth, and this is again in the more austere style. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted: October 2023.Jasper Morris | 91 JM