Cote de Beaune Wines

wines

The Cortonesi 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Poggiarelli draws its fruit from a vineyard planted in the 1970s and replanted in part during the 1990s. Its fruit has made this designate wine since 1998, and like many of the Selezioni (and the Brunello cru expressions), this wine shows a pretty mineral character that lifts above the bright red fruit. It’s absolutely true that these special sections from Montalcino are always recognized by their terrain or soil-adjacent aromas. In this case, I can smell those flinty or gravel-like tones from the schistous Galestro rocks. That special aromatic signature is followed by dark fruit and balsam herb, firm tannins and bright acidity. This is a limited 4,000-bottle release.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPVery aromatic young Brunello with ripe cherries, peaches, orange peel and some flowers. Full-bodied with a beautiful center palate of fruit and creamy, polished tannins that go on for minutes. This is all in-check and reserved with a tight structure, but there’s well balanced fruit and tannins underneath. Drink after 2025.James Suckling | 96 JSThis is rich and fruity, offering black cherry, blackberry, earth, underbrush and tobacco flavors allied to a dusty matrix of tannins. Bright acidity keeps it focused until it tightens up on the finish. Best from 2024 through 2045. 350 cases made, 250 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Poggiarelli is a brilliant ruby color in the glass, showing bright cherries and strawberries with a dusting of cedar and savory spice. It’s medium-bodied and velvety in texture with rich dark fruits, hints of licorice and dark inner florals, coming across as a bit of a bruiser today. Grippy tannins come forward through the finale, creating a classically dry expression with hints of lavender and violets lingering. There’s a bit of a large-scaled feel here; that said, the Poggiarelli does find balance toward the close.Vinous Media | 92 VMAromas of underbrush, mocha, wild herb and leather form the warm, inviting nose. Full-bodied, the concentrated palate boasts ripe black cherry, blackberry jam and licorice before finishing on a coffee bean note. Tight, close-grained tannins creep up on the close. Drink 2024–2029. Kerin O’Keefe | 92 KOAromas of underbrush, mocha, wild herb and leather form the warm, inviting nose. Full bodied, the concentrated palate boasts ripe black cherry, blackberry jam and licorice before finishing on a coffee-bean note. Tight, close-grained tannins creep up on the close. Drink 2024–2029. Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru is more timid on the nose following on from the Les Combettes and this needed more encouragement from the glass. Cold stone, granite and flint aromas are the order of the day, very well defined and precise. The palate is very concentrated with a lot of grip, the volume of this Les Pucelles towards the finish, energetic and very persistent in the mouth. This is another electrifying Puligny ‘19 from Leflaive. Closure: Diam 30Vinous Media | 95+ VMThrilling wine. Leflaive owns three parcels in Les Pucelles at the northern tip of Bâtard-Montrachet and Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet at the center of the vineyard. The mature vines deliver a perfumed, almost exotic fruit character with notes of spice and hazelnut. Still, there is also a bright lemony freshness to the wine and a lovely salty mineral finish that lift it to another plane and will allow it to continue improving for decades. The most compelling of the premiers crus from Leflaive. (Drink between 2021-2040)Decanter | 95 DECFiner boned and less concentrated than the extraordinary Combettes, the 2019 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles offers up aromas of peach, orange zest, white flowers, freshly baked bread and hazelnuts. Medium to full-bodied, saline and chiseled, this might just be a little shy after bottling, but on first encounter, it doesn’t dominate Leflaive’s range of premiers crus to the extent that it usually does.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPProminent notes of honeysuckle and passion fruit are laced with a variety of spice and citrus elements. There is good richness and an abundance of dry extract to the strikingly refined flavors that possess a gorgeous mouthfeel while delivering flat out superb length on the balanced finale. This is very classy juice that should basically age for as long as anyone would reasonably like. (Drink starting 2034)Burghound | 93-96 BH

Here the equally cool, airy and elegant nose reflects citrus and floral scents that are liberally-suffused with a similar dose of borderline pungent wet stone nuances. There is both excellent volume and focused power to the dense and intense medium-bodied flavors that exude an almost palpable minerality on the superbly long finish that comes close to etching itself on the palate. This is an absolute knockout and a clear candidate for the best premier cru of the vintage.Burghound | 96 BHGuillaume Boillot continues to work his nearly four hectares of old vines in the Clos de la Mouchère in several parcels; we tasted each section separately. The vines near the wood surrounding Clos de la Garenne have bright citrus notes with hints of flint and mineral. Those near Clavoillon have more of a ripe pear and marzipan aroma; they are less focused but have more density, elegance and depth. The combination makes a superb wine that is one of the delights of Boillot’s cellar.Decanter | 95 DECMid yellow, with a biscuity touch. Seems unsubtle until you get to the palate which is super powerful but also with subtlety. This Monopole vineyard comprises four distinct terroirs though they are always assembled. An electric backbone stops the power overturning the balance. Yellow fruit, and then an extraordinary, indeed grand cru, weight. Incisive white fruit finish. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted: December 2023.Jasper Morris | 95-97 JMThe 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 1er Cru is one of the most shut down of the whites in this vast range. Mineral and savory notes abound, but fruit is decidedly pushed into the background. Citrus confit, crushed rocks, mint and white pepper all race across the palate. There’s quite a bit of youthful austerity at this stage, but this should come together in time. A whole range of complex floral and tropical nuances linger. - Antonio GalloniVinous Media | 93-95 VM

This beautiful Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru has a subtle nose of bergamot and orange zest with notes of wild herbs. Excellent tension on the generous but focused palate, driving the very long, structured finish, which has a serious stony minerality. From a high-altitude site that may well become better known due to climate change. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSThis white is creamy, with ample baking spice, butterscotch, peach and lemon cake flavors. Shows latent power yet remains fresh and long on the complex finish, where the fruit and spice elements echo. Drink now through 2030. 1,250 cases made, 350 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSA discreet application of wood frames the pretty aromas of the essence of pear and apple compote, carnation and crushed fennel. The sleek and intense middleweight flavors possess both good richness and a subtle minerality that adds a sense of lift to the markedly zest-inflected finale that exhibits solid length. Once again there is enough gas to notice so a few minutes in a decanter would be helpful.Burghound | 91 BH

Although the vines for this Fremiets are very close to those for the Clos des Angles bottling, the style is very different – it is much more mineral, almost salty, with bright black fruit, notes of violets and spice, and a texture with abundant tannic grip and an almost chewy feel. The domaine farms nearly 1.6 hectares on the steeper slopes with shallow soils. Although it is not as reserved as the Clos des Ducs, this would benefit from five years of age before opening. (Drink between 2025 - 2050)Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2022 Volnay Fremiet 1er Cru has more depth and fruit concentration compared to the Clos des Angles. The nose displays a mélange of red and black fruit, pressed flowers and a touch of loam aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, just a slight lactic note on the entry, segueing into a more marine-tinged latter half. A pinch of black pepper appears toward the finish. Give this two or three years in bottle.Vinous Media | 93 VMAromas of kirsch, black raspberry, anise and plenty of spice nuances are trimmed in just enough oak to notice. The suave, palate coating and solidly concentrated flavors possess a richer and more generous mouthfeel where equally fine-grained tannins shape the less mineral-driven but slightly longer finish. In the context of what is typical, this is a relatively powerful Frémiets that is very much built to repay extended keeping.Burghound | 92-94 BHOffering up aromas of raspberries, plums, sweet spices and petals, the 2022 Volnay 1er Cru Fremiet is medium to full-bodied, pure and lively, with refined, powdery tannins and a fine-boned, elegant profile.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPMid crimson purple. The vineyard is just above Clos des Angles, and bears some similarity on the nose. However, the fruit is a little deeper, and darker on the palate, good acidity here, just a little more structure all round. Drink from 2030-2037. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JM

This powerful, thrilling wine has ripe green apple and pear aromas and hints of flint, smoke, and spice. A racy acidity, even from the heat of the 2022 vintage, carries the impressively dense extract to an interminable finish. The grapes are from two parcels that François Carillon farms in the centre of Puligny Perrières, north of Boillot’s monopole Clos de la Mouchère. They are pressed as whole clusters and fermented in cask (15% new), where they age for a year, followed by a further year in tank.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECFine bright mid lemon. The bouquet is discreet but powerful this is the one which needs waiting for, it just offers that little bit extra, a very complete rendition in François Carillon’s forthright style. Retasting the last three, the Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières definitely has it all. Bravo! Drink from 2029-2036. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-96 JMAn opulent version, offering peach, lemon curd, toasty oak and vanilla aromas and flavors. Underlying hints of quinine and bitter grapefruit lift the finish. Drink now through 2029. 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSAiry and cool aromas are comprised by notes of primarily citrus zest, just sliced apple and a whiff of mineral reduction. Here too the palate impression of the medium weight flavors is refined, if not quite as refined as that of the Combettes, while delivering fine length on the detailed and youthfully austere finale. This is lovely and if perhaps not quite as classy, it is still stylish and appealing.Burghound | 91-93 BH