Cote de Nuits Wines

wines

The 2015 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots, matured in two-thirds new oak, has a bewitching bouquet that is very pure and intense, layers of dark cherry and wild strawberry fruit tinged with iodine that seems to blossom in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm tannin and structured, underneath those intense dark berry fruit, a touch of salinity towards the finish that keeps the senses searching and eager for the next sip. Typical of Cathiard’s style of winemaking, this is just a brilliant Les Suchots from one of its finest exponents.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95-97 RP(August malo): Full, bright red. Showy aromas of black raspberry, licorice and violet convey excellent cut and mineral lift. Savory, penetrating wine with strong early personality to its deep flavors of black fruits, salty minerality and spices. Has the old-vines density of texture to carry its ripe tannins effortlessly.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMJuicy raspberry nose packed with fruit. Good attack, with vibrant fruit and fine-grained tannins. Taut and concentrated with a piquant complexity and good depth of flavour.Decanter | 92 DECA brilliantly spicy nose is comprised by notes of violet, plum, lavender, soy, Asian-style tea and black cherry. There is more volume and richness if less precision and delineation to the velvety and seductive-textured medium weight plus flavors that coat the palate on the beautifully well-balanced, persistent and equally classy finish that is quite firmly structured. The sheer level of dry extract buffering the ripe and dense tannins is impressive and as such this terrific effort should age effortlessly.Burghound | 92-94 BH

Lying just above Grands-Echézeaux, this was the last of the domaine’s climats to be picked, on the 12th and 14th of September, at a yield of 25.7hl/ha. A flamboyant nose of sumptuous black fruit and a touch of coffee bean leads into a broad palate of great volume and lift, with ripe blackberry and raspberry fruit, firm fleshy tannins, and a fine line of counterbalancing acidity. The oak has been seamlessly suffused. Serious length, with a dry mineral and cola finish. Bottled from 16th to 20th February 2017. 1,147 cases produced. Drinking Window 2020 - 2033.Decanter | 95 DEC(Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echézeaux Grand Cru Red) A wonderfully spicy, fresh and equally ripe nose blends together more deeply pitched notes of plum, violet, plum, sandalwood and hoisin wisps. There is impressive richness to the seductively textured yet quite powerful full-bodied flavors that possess excellent density thanks to the abundant dry extract that does a fine job of buffering the firm but not rigid tannins on the mouth coating and strikingly long finish. This is built-to-age and like the Corton, this has made huge quality strides over the past ten vintages. (Drink starting 2030).Burghound | 94 BHDark red with ruby tones; the darkest of these 2015s today. Captivating high-pitched, slightly high-toned scents of raspberry, minerals, spices and violet. Intensely flavored, youthfully tight and gripping, conveying terrific energy and subtle sweetness. The flavors of black plum and berries are darker than those of the Corton. As sharply delineated as this classy Echézeaux is, it also possesses plenty of baby fat. Finishes with substantial fine-grained tannins and outstanding length. A superb vintage for this cuvée.Vinous Media | 94 VMAfter the more restrained Corton, the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti's 2015 Échézeaux Grand Cru bursts from the glass with a flamboyant bouquet of mulberry, black cherry, wood smoke and a lavish framing of new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, concentrated and intense, with a classically firm chassis of tannin and a lovely core of sappy, succulent fruit. This was the last of DRC's vineyards to be harvested, but despite its overtly ripe aromas and flavors, it retains superb acidity and focus and should amply reward cellaring. Cropped at 26 hectoliters per hectare and harvested September 12 and 14.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

This is a large grand cru and quality is not uniform, but the domaine’s 0.8ha parcel is well situated on the mid-slope. The rich, cherry-scented nose is clearly ripe but also ethereal and heady, and there’s a touch of mint to give a cool edge. Firm and concentrated on the palate, this has generous fruit and firm but elegant tannins. There’s a silky texture and an intense, stylish finish with fine acidity. Poised and long.Decanter | 94 DECVery pretty deepish purple, this has precisely the chiselled, racy detailed, lacy aspect which I want in Echezeaux. A wonderful volume of fruit, cashmere texture yet in a soft smooth comforting basket of red fruits, and great length. This is ‘strict in its boots’ says Charles, but I may have missed something in translation there!Jasper Morris | 94-97 JMThe 2017 Echezeaux Grand Cru is also showing beautifully, unwinding in the glass with scents of plums, peonies, exotic spices, orange rind and grilled squab. Medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, it’s lively and complete, with fine depth at the core, powdery tannins and a long, rose-inflected finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93+ RPA still youthfully fresh and very pretty nose reflects an abundance of floral characters along with plenty of spice influence to the dark currant and cool cherry scents. The sleek and tautly muscular medium weight flavors possess very good if not exceptional concentration where the copious sap imparts a beguiling texture on the still firm, balanced and sneaky long finale. At only 7 years of age, and in magnum format, it’s no surprise that this should still be decidedly compact and backward and the ’17 Ech is going to need most of the next decade to arrive at its peak.Burghound | 93 BHThe 2017 Echézeaux Grand Cru comes from a 1.09-hectare parcel in the lieu-dit of Rouge de Bas; this cru includes 100% whole bunches. It has a tightly wound bouquet at first, gradually unfurling to reveal quite intense dark berry fruit laced with tea leaves and bay leaf. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, crisp acidity, quite a masculine style and a stoic, rather aloof finish that might just require more flesh to counter the influence of the whole bunch stems. Let’s see how this matures in bottle.Vinous Media | 92-94 VM

Light in colour, with a certain attractive evolution in the bouquet, very sensual, lifted raspberry and alpine strawberry. This is a Vosne-Romanée which is all about the delicacy, perfumed and succulent up front, lighter behind. Perhaps just a little soft at the finish but with a heavenly fruit quality. Just the style that Charles Lachaux is trying to achieve. Tasted: October 2020.Jasper Morris | 91 JMAromatically the nose possesses a similar fruit profile but it’s notably spicier. There is also a bit more concentration to the medium-bodied flavors that possess a more refined mouthfeel before terminating in a saline and lingering finish. The refinement is mostly due to the dense but fine tannins and this should age well for its level.Burghound | 89-91 BH

From Lavières and Bas de Combe plus two vineyards nearer to Nuits. Again there is no especial depth of colour, yet with this sublime fragrance. The whole bunches are a bit firmer but the fragrance comes behind. Tasted: November 2018.Jasper Morris | 90 JMThe 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Village is a blend of several vineyards that offer homogeneous ripeness but on different soils. It has quite an earthy, sous-bois tinged bouquet that is very well defined, the 60% whole bunches nicely integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with a tart opening, and the 10% new oak lends discreet lift toward a persistent finish spiced with a dash of black pepper. Excellent.Vinous Media | 89-91 VMAn exuberantly expressive nose jumps from the glass to reveal a lovely array of earth, red currant, spice and a whiff of lavender. There is once again an appealing sense of energy to the lighter weight flavors that deliver solid punch and persistence on the balanced finish. This is a relatively elegant Nuits villages.Burghound | 88-90 BH

The 2017 Beaumonts from Cécile Tremblay is also outstanding, showing off the inherent elegance of the vintage on both its nose and palate. The bouquet is a refined blend of plums, red and black cherries, dark soil tones, Vosne spices, a touch of sweet stems again, fresh nutmeg and nutty new oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, soil-driven and very complex, with a superb core of fruit, fine-grained tannins, bright acids and excellent length and grip on the poised and very, very promising finish. (Drink between 2027 - 2065)John Gilman | 94 JGThe 2017 Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 1er Cru, matured in 60% new oak, has one of the most sensual bouquets from Cécile Tremblay this year, with plenty of crushed strawberry, rose petals and flecks of dark chocolate. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, the new oak more conspicuous than in other crus at the moment, so give this at least two or three years to subsume the wood; there is plenty of substance to soak it up. Should drink well for 12 to 18 years.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMFirm reduction dominates the nose. Otherwise there is excellent tension to the almost painfully intense and wonderfully refined mineral-driven flavors that are impressively long, complex and notably better balanced. However the finish is also notably firmer so at least some patience advised.Jasper Morris | 92-96 JMAromas of smoked duck, cassis and smoky plums introduce the 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaumonts, a satiny, medium to full-bodied wine with a characteristically generous, ample profile, framed by velvety structuring tannins. It’s one of the more gourmand wines in the cellar.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPFirm reduction dominates the nose. Otherwise there is excellent tension to the almost painfully intense and wonderfully refined mineral-driven flavors that are impressively long, complex and notably better balanced. However the finish is also notably firmer so at least some patience advised.Burghound | 91-94 BH

The 2017 Vosne V.V. shares the same beautiful fruit tones with the Chambolle AC in this vintage, but is perhaps even a hair more transparent in its expression of its underlying terroir. The nose wafts from the glass in a complex blend of raspberries, red and black plums, cocoa powder, duck, lovely soil tones, woodsmoke and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very soil-driven, with a sappy core, excellent focus and grip, suave tannins, vibrant acids and a very long, elegant and precise finish. This is a gorgeous village wine in the making! (Drink between 2022 - 2055)John Gilman | 91+ JGThe 2017 Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes, matured in 50% new oak with 25% whole bunches, has an aromatic, very floral bouquet, scents of pressed violets intermingling with the black plum and bilberry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, finely judged acidity and good balance and matière toward the almost citrus-like finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 90-92 VMBursting from the glass with aromas of sweet red berries, exotic spices and smoked duck, the 2017 Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes is the broadest and most satiny of Tremblay’s village wines, with a medium to full-bodied, fleshy profile that was still digesting some structuring tannin when I tasted it.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RPA markedly spicier and more deeply pitched nose grudgingly reveals notes of dark cherry, plum, violet and sandalwood. The velvety, delicious and caressing medium-bodied flavors possess fine concentration for the vintage, all wrapped in a highly seductive, sappy and sneaky long finish. I like the balance and overall this is too a really quite good plus it’s very Vosne.Burghound | 89-91 BHThis shows the typical deepish red colour of Cécile’s 2017s. The wood shows a little on the nose, in its toasty style but here it is just an inflection, then a really pure fine concentrated fruit on the palate, more red than black, fills out the mid palate. Tasted: November 2018.Jasper Morris | 89-91 JM

The Mugneret sisters’ Échézeaux comes from two contrasting parcels in Les Rouges du Bas and Les Quartiers de Nuits. It’s quite oaky at the moment, thanks to 75% new wood, but there’s plenty of plush, textured fruit to soak up the splinters. It’s floral and refined with the feminine touch that typifies the domaine’s wines.Decanter | 96 DECThe 2017 Echezeaux Grand Cru is still very open and expressive despite its recent bottling, bursting from the glass with aromas of smoky cherries, ripe berries, orange rind, dark chocolate and espresso roast. On the palate, it’s full-bodied, textural and enveloping, with powdery tannins, lively acids and an ample core of fruit, concluding with a long and perfumed finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2017 Echézeaux Grand Cru is far less strict than the previous bottle I tasted at the Domaine. This offers plenty of fruit on the nose, plush for the vintage with copious kirsch, Morello cherries and orange pith scents. Sensual and alluring. Just a hint of green olive lurks in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with finely-chiseled tannins, still plush with a judicious sprinkling of black pepper on the finish. This is a very impressive showing with a disarming persistence in the mouth. Tasted at Maison de Colombier in Beaune.Vinous Media | 94 VMThe family’s parcels in Echézeaux were quite badly frosted in 2016 and this seemed to show just a little in the 2017 version of the wine. It is not that the wine is fluide on the palate, as the depth at the core is very good here, but there seems to be just a touch less energy to this wine in 2017 than what is found in the other two grand crus, not to mention the top premier crus this year. Perhaps it was just the stage that the wine was going through at the time of my visit? The bouquet is certainly lovely, as it delivers a fine mix of plums, sweet dark berries, cocoa powder, duck, lovely spices tones, a fine base of soil and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure on the attack, full-bodied and quite complex, with a good core, refined tannins and very good length and grip on the well-balanced finish. I may have just been a touch hyper sensitive about this wine, but with the fireworks in abundance with the other two grand crus, this wine was just a tad subdued in comparison- though still excellent. (Drink between 2027 - 2080)John Gilman | 93+ JGMade up from Quartiers de Nuits, still sharecropped, and Les Rouges du Bas, which they now run themselves but the crop here was light in 2017, so the proportions between the two is still close to 50/50. This has been matured in 60% new wood. The nose is subtle, delicate charming but far from light. The fruit in the mouth is just ripe enough, deep cherry with some raspberry notes, but absolutely the lacy nature of the appellation. Pure charming fruit here. Very classic medium bodied Echezeaux . Tasted: November 2018.Jasper Morris | 93-97 JMA much more floral-inflected nose displays a lovely array of spice elements to the exotic tea and plum liqueur aromas that are trimmed in just enough wood to mention. There is impressive density to the extract-rich medium-bodied flavors that possess a velvety and seductive texture while delivering very good persistence on the slightly grippy finish. This won’t win any awards for elegance and it’s pretty compact at present though I suspect that like several wines in the range, this will successfully age out.Burghound | 92 BH

A well-defined red, with great focus and precision to the black cherry, black currant, violet and stony, mineral flavors. Ends with a chalky sensation, lending gravitas to the finish and overall impression. Best from 2023 through 2045.Wine Spectator | 95 WSFresh deep purple with a delicious exotic brambly character, pure and forceful, some whole bunch but it is the fruit which wins. Absolutely gorgeous with perfectly balanced acidity and non-aggressive tannins. Liqueur raspberry finish and great length.Jasper Morris | 95 JMThe 2017 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru has a well-defined bouquet of morello cherry, wild strawberry and just a touch of graphite. This is strict and backward, yet very focused, and the oak is nicely integrated. The palate is medium-bodied, taut and fresh, displaying fine tannins, superb mineralité and beautifully integrated oak, and delivering good body and persistence on the finish. An excellent Chambolle-Musigny with real pedigree. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.Vinous Media | 94 VMChristophe Roumier expresses the terroirs of Chambolle with a combination of emotional engagement and winemaking precision. This pale, delicate, almost balletic premier cru is racy and refreshing, with some spicy notes from 50% whole bunches and one-third new barrels.Decanter | 94 DECThe 2017 les Cras from Domaine Roumier is an outstanding bottle in the making. The nose wafts from the glass in a very classy blend of red and black cherries, violets, raw cocoa, gamebird, chalky minerality, vanillin oak and a gently smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, long and very soil-driven in personality, with a sappy core of fruit, fine-grained tannins and a long, focused and beautifully balanced finish. This should start to open nicely in another seven or eight years, but its real apogee is still probably twenty years down the road. (Drink between 2028 - 2065)John Gilman | 93+ JGThe 2017 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras is showing nicely, exhibiting notions of sweet berry fruit, cherries, peonies, spices and creamy new oak. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and enveloping, with a deep core of fruit, lively acids and chalky back-end grip, it will demand a bit of patience, even in this extroverted vintage.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RPA whiff of reduction detracts slightly from the appeal of the overtly floral-inflected nose that reflects notes of violet, lilac, lavender and rose petal along with a fresh mix of red and dark cherries. The sleek, intense and almost pungent mineral-driven medium weight flavors possess terrific delineation on the dusty, firm and youthfully austere finish that goes on and on. This is decidedly backward and compact at present and is going to require at least some patience first.Burghound | 92 BH

Ripe, exuding blackberry and blueberry fruit, this red is dense, with a slightly dusty quality to the tannins. Earth and iron accents add depth as this stays defined and extends on the fresh, mouthwatering finish. Best from 2022 through 2036.Wine Spectator | 94 WSPurchased by Christophe Roumier’s father in 1953, this 2.59ha clos is a monopole holding. Made with 35% whole bunches and aged in 25% new wood, it has the brightness, balance and freshness of the domaine’s Chambolle village, but with a bit more tannin and weight. Sappy, sweet and refreshing.Decanter | 92 DECThe 2017 Clos de la Bussière from Christophe Roumier is another bottling that has really benefited from the refined elegance of this vintage, as it offers up uncharacteristically early polish in its aromatic constellation of sweet dark berries, black cherries, pigeon, bitter chocolate, woodsmoke, dark soil tones and a touch of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and still properly reserved in personality, with a fine core of fruit, lovely transparency and a long, ripely tannic and very well balanced finish. This will be an excellent vintage of Clos de la Bussière in the fullness of time, but it is still close to a decade away from starting to blossom. (Drink between 2030 - 2070)John Gilman | 92 JGDeep core of fresh purple, with much charm to the dark raspberry fruit. This is a concentrated wine, quite firm at the finish, a question of time because the fruit will certainly win through. Tasted: September 2021.Jasper Morris | 92 JMThe 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussière 1er Cru has quite a straightforward bouquet of raspberry and cranberry fruit, pleasant sous-bois aromas percolating through with time. This gains complexity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine acidity and chiseled tannins, but it feels a little attenuated on the finish. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.Vinous Media | 91 VMAn unusually spicy nose reflects notes of earth and a whiff of game on the black raspberry and violet scents. There is a fleshy, even velvety, mouthfeel to the nicely voluminous medium-bodied flavors that flash focused power on the ever-so-mildly rustic and beautifully complex finale that delivers sneaky good length. This youthfully austere effort is finer than it usually is and should reward extended keeping.Burghound | 91 BHThe 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussière is a real success, and decidedly reminiscent of the domaine’s excellent 2007. Offering up aromas of sweet red berries, warm spices, peony and subtle soil tones, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a fine core of fruit that cloaks its rich but fine-grained tannic chassis. While it’s an elegant rendition of the Clos de la Bussière, this always needs bottle age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RP

This cuvée, sourced from a 0.75ha parcel of 46-year-old vines completed its malolactic fermentation late, so was a little more backward than the other releases when I tasted it. It may need more time in barrel and bottle, but this is a superb expression of the premier cru, located at the fresher, more scented end of the spectrum. It has fruit intensity from the small berries (millerands) and a chiselled finish.Decanter | 96 DECNoble imperial purple. There is a such a wealth of vibrant heady fruit, which defies simple categorisation, so much more than just dark cherry, too concentrated for floral descriptors though some peony notes are lurking. There is an explosion of fruit at the back of the palate, a little more red than black, an excellent fresh acidity, a very complete wine with as much concentration as one could hope for in 2017. Tasted: November 2018.Jasper Morris | 95-97 JMCathiard’s emblematic cuvée, the 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts is also a great success, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cherries, licorice, spices, dark berries, grilled game and an elegant framing of new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and fleshy, with a broad-shouldered chassis of velvety structuring tannin, considerable concentration and a long, expansive finish. Due to a late malolactic, this was one of the more primary wines in the cellar, but its immense potential is impossible to miss.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2017 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru is matured in 62% new oak and underwent a slightly later malolactic fermentation than the other cuvées. It has a very pure, detailed bouquet of precise blackberry, briar and crushed stone aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red and black fruit, displaying more grip and backbone than the Les Suchots, and the bold finish perhaps offering less charm. It will certainly require several years in bottle.Vinous Media | 93-95 VM Firm reduction renders this impossible to fairly assess today. Otherwise there is more size, weight and muscle to the big-bodied and more evidently mineral-driven flavors that are almost painfully intense, all wrapped in a gorgeously long finish that really fans out as it sits on the palate. However, it is pointless to buy this without the express intention to cellar it as it is very structured.Burghound | 92-95 BH

Showing a deeper colour than the other wines in his cellar, as it always seems to do, this serious, well-structured Nuits from Emmanuel Rouget shows bramble and black cherry fruits, some subtle oak spice, vivacious acidity and good underlying grip.Decanter | 92 DECThe 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Village, matured in 30% new oak in order to preserve freshness, according to Rouget, has quite a generous bouquet of blueberry and black cherry fruit, the oak nicely integrated. The palate is bright and fresh with violet-tinged blue fruit, almost Vosne-like in style, leading to a silky-smooth, very classy finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 90-92 VMThe 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges Village exhibits aromas of sweet Morello cherries, cassis, violets and rose petals. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, satiny and expressive, with a layered core and fine stony tannins, combining richness of structure, with lightness of touch.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RPThis is at once more deeply colored and more deeply pitched with its fresh and restrained nose of plum, dark currant, violet and newly turned earth. There is notably better concentration to the muscular and punchy medium-bodied flavors that flash a mild rusticity on the mouth coating though not particularly austere finale. This well-made effort is very Nuits in character and should age well over the mid-term.Burghound | 89-91 BH

This excellent grand cru bottling was wiped out by frost in 2016, but is back with a flourish in 2017. Sourced from a single 100-year-old parcel in Les Cruots, it sees 100% new wood but isn’t particularly oaky. With 30% whole bunches adding some extra sap, this is sweet, stylish and textured, with an undertone of ginger spice and engaging fruit sweetness.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECThe 2017 Echézeaux from Domaine Georges Noëllat is another excellent wine in the making. The wine offers up a fine aromatic constellation of black cherries, black plums, a fine base of dark soil tones, venison, woodsmoke and spicy oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and beautifully sappy at the core, with suave tannins, excellent focus and grip and a very long, velvety and classy finish. This was pretty badly frosted in 2016 and perhaps is a bit easy-going structurally this year, due to last year’s frosts. But, it may well be that there is a more serious structural chassis here currently buried under the gorgeous fruit and it may firm up a bit more when Maxime racks the wine. If this is the case, then my score will prove to be conservative. (Drink between 2027 - 2075)John Gilman | 94 JGCheurlin’s 2017 Echezeaux Grand Cru is showing beautifully from bottle, bursting with aromas of cherries, cassis, rose petals, spices and orange rind, deftly framed by classy new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, broad and succulent, built around powdery tannins and a fragrant core of ripe but lively fruit.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThe 2017 Echézeaux Grand Cru contains between 15 and 20% whole bunches, matured entirely in new oak. It has quite a complex bouquet of blackberry, raspberry confit, tobacco and crushed stone scents, all nicely focused. The palate is medium-bodied, offering sappy black fruit with veins of blue, gentle grip and a sensual, lascivious finish. Give this five to eight years in bottle if you can.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMFrom very old vines in Les Cruots. Maxim has included a few whole bunches(15%) to freshen the wine up with a deliberate little touch of youthful astringency. The deep purple colour is an immediate indicator of the wine’s intensity This is a wine of huge substance if not immediately obviously Echezeaux. Plenty of barrel which it will manage. The whole bunch was needed here I think. Tasted Nov 2018.Jasper Morris | 91-95 JMHere too a deft touch of wood sets off the spicier and more complex aromas that combine plum, black and blue fruit with a broad range of floral elements. The bigger, richer and more concentrated if less evident mineral-driven medium-bodied flavors culminate in a youthfully austere, long and bitter cherry pit-infused finish. This seductive effort should be approachable on the younger side but reward extended keeping.Burghound | 90-93 BH

The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuées 1er Cru has a wonderful bouquet of joyful red fruit laced with wild hedgerow and pressed rose petals, very elegant and crystalline in quality. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, good structure and impressive tension on the classic, traditional-style finish. Difficult to resist!Vinous Media | 94 VMThe 2017 les Fuées from Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier is a lovely bottle in the making. It is still young, but the suave personality of the 2017 vintage also makes this quite easy to drink today, as it offers up a bright and complex nose of red and black cherries, beetroot, a lovely base of soil, woodsmoke, a touch of mustard seed and a whisper of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, pure and full, with a lovely core of fruit, fine soil undertow, suave, fine-grained tannins and a long, nascently complex and very well balanced finish. Though this is quite accessible in its youthful guise, I would try to leave my hands off of it for another seven or eight years and really let it come into its own. Lovely juice. (Drink between 2028 - 2060)John Gilman | 93 JGThe 2017 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuées is superb, wafting from the glass with aromas of rose petal, raspberries, sweet forest floor and cherries. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied with excellent concentration and depth at the core, balanced by juicy acids and displaying an elegant but reserved profile that will demand and reward some bottle age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPMedium depth of colour, a slightly charred note on otherwise attractive fruit, a little touch of bacon. Some tannins behind, the quality of the fruit is really lovely apart from the hint of something medicinal, which may clear later. Tasted: September 2021.Jasper Morris | 92 JMThere is enough reduction present to dominate the underlying fruit along with a similar note of herbal tea so if you’re going to try a bottle young, I would advise decanting it first. There is a lilting, indeed almost delicate mouthfeel to the more mineral-driven and slightly denser medium-bodied flavors that possess a silky mouthfeel, all wrapped in a sneaky long finish that is shaped by admirably fine-grained tannins. My rating assumes that the nose will clear up with a few years of bottle age.Burghound | 91 BH

I can’t remember a more appealing sample of the Aux Thorey premier cru at this young stage from Sébastien Cathiard. Made with grapes from a 0.43ha parcel planted in 1953, it has a wonderful combination of sweetness, acidity, structure, and plush black cherry and orange zest flavours.Decanter | 95 DECThe 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Thorey 1er Cru is consistent with my previous notes. Raspberry and black cherries, less cassis than noted out of barrel and more Pinoté than expected. The palate is well-balanced with fine-grain tannins. It’s quite Vosne-like thanks to its florality, with a subtle oyster shell-tinged finish. It still requires a couple of years in bottle, but it’s getting there.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Aux Thorey offers up a lovely bouquet of cassis, blackberries, warm spices, licorice and peony. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, with superb concentration and an earthier, chewier profile than the Murgers this year—despite the finesse of its tannins.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPA still youthfully fresh, pure, cool and restrained nose offers an appealingly spicy array of red currant, cherry and soft earth nuances. The mouthfeel of the energetic medium weight flavors is wonderfully refined while possessing fine complexity on the balanced, lingering and still slightly austere finale. Lovely stuff fashioned in an understated style that is still clearly on the way up though another 5 to 7 years should see it at its full maturity. I would note that this isn’t so backward that it couldn’t be enjoyed now if you don’t feel like waiting!Burghound | 91 BHFullish purple with a lighter rim. Some density of red fruit, not quite so intense, certainly ripe, a slight tarriness from the wood, perhaps because of a late malolactic fermentation. It does give grip to the finish though. Tasted: November 2018.Jasper Morris | 90-94 JM

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots is showing brilliantly this year, wafting from the glass with a deep-pitched bouquet of cassis, blackberries, spices and dark chocolate. On the palate, it’s full-bodied, rich and enveloping, its textural attack segueing into a deep and layered core, concluding with a long and penetrating finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2018 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru was more backward than the Les Beaumonts and demanded more coaxing to offer raspberry, wild strawberry, sous-bois, touches of morels and light sage aromas, gradually unfolding from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, quite strict and maybe a little rustic for a Les Suchots, but with fine grip and spiciness toward the finish. This will require 4–5 years to fully meld.Vinous Media | 93+ VMThis is spicier still and a bit riper as well if not quite so elegant on the variety of black berry fruit aromas that are trimmed in very subtle wood. The velvety, generous and extremely rich flavors coat the palate with sappy dry extract on the, robust, muscular and bitter cherry pit-inflected finale. As is usually the case, this is not as refined but it’s definitely more powerful.Burghound | 92 BHSuchots is quite a way further down the slope than Beaumonts and is always a riper wine as a result, which in 2018 gives it a bit more of a roasted character here (again, very reminiscent of a 1990 Vosne), but still with plenty of complexity and breed. The nose wafts from the glass in a mix of roasted cassis, blackberries, roasted meats, dark soil tones, a bit of coffee grounds, bonfire and a topnote of Vosne spices. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and nicely plush at the core, with far more mineral drive on the backend than the nose suggests, good focus and grip and a long, ripely tannic finish. This is a very good bottle in the making and I am sure that some might prefer its more flamboyant style than that of the Beaumonts, but I have a slight preference for the latter. (Drink between 2028 - 2060)John Gilman | 91 JGFrom vines planted in the 1910s, towards the bottom of the vineyard where there is plenty of earth but not down in the dip. Glowing mid purple. Soft and luscious but then with good energy behind and very good length. As always a very discreet wine, and in this case a very fine one. Tasted Nov 2019.Jasper Morris | 91-95 JM

The most Vosne-Romanée-like of the Nuits-St-Georges Premiers Crus according to Etienne Grivot, with a character that he identifies as ’a little wild’, Aux Boudots often produces on my favourite wines at the domaine. It’s plush, smooth and glossy all right, with a sheen of aromatic 30% new wood, fine tannins and some underlying bounce and vitality.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECA well of black currant and blueberry mark this sappy, yet beefy red. It’s a tannic Titanic, with a dense, compact finish that echoes the dark fruit, spice and iron notes. The aftertaste is saturated with fruit. Impressive, yet will require time to resolve the tannins. Best from 2025 through 2047. 53 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSHalf the vines were ripped out 5 years ago and will come back into play in 2020 maybe. Bouncing concentrated dark red fruit, not too exuberant on the palate though, an excellent fine-grained tannic structure behind, and exceptional length. This has been picked at optimum ripeness. Tasted Nov 2019.Jasper Morris | 94-96 JMThe 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Boudots 1er Cru comes from the old part of the vineyard, half of which was replanted in spring 2017 (these young vines may reenter this cru next year, or more likely the Bourgogne Rouge until they reach maturity). The crisp, fresh, well-defined bouquet is probably the best among Grivot’s Nuits Saint-Georges this year, reflecting the pedigree of this vineyard. The palate is medium-bodied with impressive mineralité and tension, quite "strict" in style but boasting so much coiled-up energy on the finish that you could easily drink it now. This is a superb offering that should age with grace and style over many years.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMThis too is quite firmly reduced to the point that it’s unreadable today. Otherwise the less concentrated but finer middle weight flavors exude evident minerality on the tautly muscular bitter cherry-inflected finish that is a bit leaner and less complex. The younger vines are in evidence though to be fair, and clear, this is still a very pretty effort.Burghound | 89-92 BH

This large 1.75ha holding is at the northern end of the lieu-dit, not far from Bonnes Mares, where it is planted in a terres blanches soil similar to the top of the slope. In 2019, the fruit has given a seductive result, with profuse raspberry aromas, a hint of ginger and liquorice. The texture on the palate shows plenty of extract, with sweet fruit but also a lovely depth and density. Drinking Window 2024 - 2049.Decanter | 95 DECThe 2019 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru was showing a little more reduction than the Les Combottes, though not much, allowing black fruit laced with crushed stone and iris flower to emerge with aeration. The palate is beautifully defined with succulent, vibrant red and black fruit, hints of blood orange and a subtle irony tincture toward the graceful finish. An outstanding Les Cras. Just superb.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMThis is definitely ripe yet again quite fresh with its overtly floral combination of cassis, poached plum, anise, rose petal and discreet wood-suffused aromas. Once again there is a really lovely texture to the more obviously mineral-driven flavors that culminate in a highly refreshing, chiseled and youthfully austere finale that delivers notably better length. Impressive stuff that should age effortlessly. (Drink starting 2031)Burghound | 93 BHRoumier’s 2019 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras unwinds in the glass with scents of cherries, smoky berry fruit, orange rind, Indian spices and dark chocolate. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and elegantly textural, it’s rich and concentrated, with powdery tannins, succulent acids and a perfumed finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RP

For the first time, Maxime Chuerlin decided to use stems in his crown jewel, the 2019 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru, settling on 25% whole bunch for this year. This was an astute decision, because it lends freshness and more complexity to the bouquet of blackberry, undergrowth, tobacco and crushed limestone aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, hints of peppermint behind the black fruit and touches of white pepper and sage toward a finish that fans out wonderfully. A slam-dunk for Maxime Churlin. Five barrels produced, matured entirely in new oak.Vinous Media | 96-98 VM(Domaine Georges Noëllat Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru Red) In contrast to the expressiveness of the Echézeaux, this is aromatically more restrained and somber and only grudgingly reveals its more floral-suffused aromas of various dark berries, spice and lavender and violet scents. The sleek and impressively intense bigger-bodied flavors are also not especially dense with very good detail, all wrapped in a dusty, somewhat angular and short finish. Note that my score assumes that this become much more harmonious with a few years in bottle as the underlying material appears to be quite good. (Drink starting 2034)Burghound | 91-93 BH

The 2019 Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 1er Cru, matured in 80% new oak, has a very detailed, focused bouquet of blackberry, briar, raspberry jam and light orange peel aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly tarry opening, a smear of dark chocolate combining nicely with the dark berry fruit, but it is unapologetically backward and surly on the finish compared with the Echézeaux or the Vosne Les Chaumes, so give it some serious cellaring.Vinous Media | 93-95 VM(Domaine Georges Noëllat Vosne-Romanée "Les Beaux Monts" 1er Cru Red) A ripe but cool and even spicier nose offers up notes of anise and hoisin on the pretty aromas of black pinot fruit and violet nuances. The sleek, refined and beautifully detailed middle weight flavors are not especially dense though there is enough sap to buffer the moderately firm supporting tannins on the balanced finish. This isn’t quite as vibrant as the Petits Monts but it’s attractive in a riper fashion. (Drink starting 2029)Burghound | 89-92 BH

From the section of Echézeaux known as Clos St. Denis, 45-year-old vines are planted on southeast facing slopes in clay and limestone soils. The whole cluster vinification here provides a balanced, elegant wine, with bright red fruit and floral aromas, moderate weight, firm-ish tannins and an engaging elegance that should age well. Drinking Window 2021 - 2034.Decanter | 94 DEC(Maison Philippe Pacalet Echézeaux Grand Cru Red) Here the nose is firmly reduced though it seems clear that the underlying fruit is definitely ripe. The sleek, delicious and relatively refined middle weight plus flavors possess good delineation on the unusually chalky, complex, youthfully austere, compact and beautifully long finish. This is also very much built-to-age though it’s not so structured that it could not be approached after 7 to 8 years. In a word, lovely. (Drink starting 2034)Burghound | 92-94 BH

ean-Nicolas Méo’s 2020 Clos Vougeot is really, really refined this year. The wine delivers a complex and very pure aromatic constellation of red and black cherries, plums, dark chocolate, gamebird, violets, a touch of fresh nutmeg, complex soil tones and a nice foundation of new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a lovely core of sappy fruit, excellent mineral undertow and grip, ripe, buried tannins and impeccable balance on the long, suave and classy finish. Fine, fine juice. (Drink between 2035 - 2095)John Gilman | 94+ JGApart from 2017, Jean-Nicolas Méo only makes one commercially available cuvée of his substantial holding of Clos de Vougeot. Even purple throughout. This is a sturdy, weighty, richly dark fruited, multi-layered wine, with great potential for the long term. Ripe but not exaggerated. Tasted: December 2021.Jasper Morris | 94-97 JMThe 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is very promising, unfurling in the glass with aromas of wild berries, cherries, orange rind, potpourri and loamy soil. Full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, it’s seamless and complete, with superb depth at the core and a long, resonant finish. It will be fascinating to compare with the 2019 rendition in two decades’ time.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru had to shake off a little reduction before revealing its minerally blackberry, raspberry and cassis fruit. Wilted rose petal emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, nicely focused yet surprisingly strict and linear at the moment. This will gain "shoulders" once in bottle.Vinous Media | 92-95 VMDiscreet but still perceptible wood-suffuses the ripe aromas of black cherry, currant, newly turned earth and a floral top note. There is a lovely sense of underlying tension to the palate coating and nicely detailed medium weight plus flavors that offers excellent depth and persistence on the relatively refined if youthfully austere finale. This is more structured than it usually is and is a wine that is going to require at least a decade of aging first.Burghound | 92-94 BH

The Grivot family owns 0.84ha of Echézeaux, mainly in Les Cruots. The grapes are entirely destemmed and given a cold soak before gentle fermentation on native yeasts. The wine is pressed and aged in cask (40% new). The result shows impressive elegance yet is in no way lacking fruit, with a lovely, expressive black cherry and pomegranate quality. The texture is delicate, yet there is impressive concentration, and the red fruit and floral notes linger on the finish. Drinking Window: 2027 - 2050Decanter | 96 DECTouches of bitter chocolate and kirsch are present on the spicy aromas of plum, violet and soft wood. The finer if not denser flavors possess a velvety texture while also coating the palate with dry extract on the dusty and chalky finish that is likewise youthfully austere. I very much like the depth and persistence and this beauty should also age gracefully for as long as most anyone would like.Burghound | 93-96 BHThe 2020 Echézeaux Grand Cru offers mulberry, sous-bois and very subtle star anis aromas on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, quite taut and fresh, linear at the moment with touches of blood orange and Clementine towards the finish. Give this several years in bottle.Vinous Media | 92-94 VM

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru, the usual blend of Crapiots and Perrières, has a beautifully defined bouquet with dark cherries, bergamot and wild hedgerow, very focused and classy. The palate is medium-bodied with a powdery texture, just a very small reduction at play, though that does not disguise the structure and substance on the finish. Wonderful.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMWafting from the glass with notes of smoky berries, sweet soil tones, spices and orange zest, the 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru is medium to full-bodied, lively and elegant, with bright acids and sweet, powdery tannins, concluding with a mineral finish. Once again, it’s the usual blend chez Dugat of premiers crus Craipillot and Perrières.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RPHere too the nose is firmly reduced. More interesting are the delicious and vibrant middleweight flavors that possess slightly better density while delivering solid length on the punchy and mildly austere finale. Good mid-term development potential here.Burghound | 90-92 BH

There are only three barrels of the 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques, but its quality is some compensation for the lack of quantity. Exhibiting complex aromas of raspberries and cassis mingled with sweet spices, orange zest and smoke, it’s medium to full-bodied, layered and fleshy, with excellent concentration, powdery tannins and lively acids.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPThe 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru shows a bit of reduction on the nose, yet it still offers quite delineated, brambly red fruit and conspicuous crushed rock aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with tensile tannins, strict and what you might call as "vertical" in style. This feels as if it is keeping everything under wraps on the finish. Very fine.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMFirm reduction is all that is discernible though there is again excellent vibrancy and freshness to the relatively supple, if more concentrated, medium weight flavors that flash evident minerality on the lingering and moderately austere finish that firms up noticeably as it sits on the palate. Dugat almost never misses with this wine and the 2021 vintage continues that streak.Burghound | 91-93 BH