France Wines

wines

Shimmering ruby. Powerful blackberry, cherry and licorice aromas are complicated by suggestions of smoky minerals and violet. Well-concentrated and broad in the mouth, offering bitter cherry and dark berry flavors enlivened by a snap of cracked pepper. Slowly building tannins frame the finish, which lingers with very good, dark-fruit-driven persistence.Vinous Media | 91 VMThe light tannins are beautifully textured and encase vivid raspberry and currant flavors matched with woodsy spice, licorice and floral details. Undertones of mineral and spice sail through the tangy finish. Drink now through 2026. 5,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WSFull blackberry fruit, generous body and lively acidity make this Moulin-à-Vent easy to enjoy, and the well drafted balance of discreet tannins and mineral acidity at the finish provides very satisfying harmony. Drink now.James Suckling | 90 JS

This is perhaps the spiciest wine in the range with a lovely mix of anise, exotic tea and sandalwood on the deeply pitched dark berry fruit aromas that also evidence a hint of volatile acidity. The rich, full-bodied and mouthcoating big-bodied flavors brim with sappy dry extract before concluding in a grippy and mildly rustic finish that still manages to deliver very good length. (Drink starting 2033)Burghound | 90-93 BH

The 2018 Des Fougères Clos Montesquieu is terrific. Black cherry, espresso, licorice, dried flowers, mocha, blood orange, gravel and baking spices open gradually in the glass. More than anything else, I admire the wine’s persistence and overall balance. Clos Montesquieu is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot.Antonio Galloni | 91 AGClove and chili to the dark-berry and pine-needle undertones. It’s medium-bodied with a solid core of ripe, fine tannins and dark fruit. Drinkable now, but better in 2022.James Suckling | 91 JSA blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon brought up in 20% new oak, the 2018 Château Des Fougères Clos Montesquieu has a pretty, incredibly floral perfume of blue fruits, mulberries, leafy herbs, cedar, and rose petals. These all carry over to the palate, where the wine is medium-bodied, has a lively thread of acidity, light tannins, and solid length. It’s one of those wines that grows on you with time in the glass and shines more for its finesse and elegance than power. It’s going to benefit from 2-4 years in the cellar and should keep for a decade. (Drink between 2023-2033)Jeb Dunnuck | 90 JD

Matured for one year in barrel and six months in tank, the 2019 Montagny 1er Cru delivers aromas of pear, peach and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, ample and charming, with a satiny attack and mouthwatering acids, it’s the most open-knit, giving white in the cellar, and it’s drinking well out of the gates.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPPurchased fruit, blended from two sites - L’Épaule and Creux de Beauchamp - planted with old vines. Both vineyards are densely planted and propagated using massale selection, to give super-ripe grapes with aromas of apple and just a bit of spice. A long maturation on the lees gives this wine a density and supple texture that is truly appealing. Drinking Window 2021 - 2029.Decanter | 90 DEC

The 2019 Noaillac retains the superb bouquet from barrel, featuring blackberry and bilberry fruit, ripe and generous, while maintaining fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins. Classic in style, and a little fleshier than before, with black pepper and cedar on the finish. An excellent Noaillac.Vinous Media | 91 VMSweet berries and plums with some rose-petal and stem undertones. Full-bodied with round tannins and delicious fruit, with a light vanilla undertone at the end. Drink after 2023.James Suckling | 91 JSThe 2019 Noaillac is showing better than I perceived shortly after bottling. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of minty red berries, cassis, pencil shavings and loamy soil, it’s medium to full-bodied, supple and elegant, with an attractive core of fruit, refined tannins and a penetrating finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

The 2019 Poitevin has a perfumed, floral bouquet with more red fruit than I observed from barrel, showing fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, very cohesive and harmonious. There’s just a touch of graphite on the finish. Stylish, top-notch Poitevin.Vinous Media | 91 VMThe 2019 Poitevin is performing better than it did when I tasted it earlier this year, when I suspect it was still shut down after bottling. Opening in the glass with attractive aromas of orange zest, sweet red berries, petals and spices, it’s medium-bodied, lively and elegant, with lovely purity of fruit and nicely integrated structure.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

Blackberries, cherries, sesame and salted-chocolate notes. Peach stones, too. It’s medium-bodied with silky, creamy tannins. So juicy and pure. 88% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot and 2% cabernet franc. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Delicious now.James Suckling | 93 JSThe 2019 Les Plantes is the new, young-vines wine from Durfort-Vivens. It offers notable depth to match its creamy, succulent personality. Drink this over the next few years, while the dark red fruit remains vibrant. There’s so much character here.Vinous Media | 91 VMVery bright and bursting through on the nose which shows a soft perfume and red summer fruit aromas. Wow - juicy, bright and energetic. Not massive in structure, but clear summer berry fruit, lift and verve. Measured extraction achieves soft tannins, fruit pulp and bright juice. Lively and easy to drink. From young vines and 2019 is the first vintage.Decanter | 90 DEC

The 2019 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru has a less flamboyant bouquet than its peers. This feels more reserved and flinty, though very nicely defined and focused. The palate is well balanced, with the weight and density I look for in a Vaillon, and a little spicier than the Vosgros. A touch of lemongrass and a hint of green olive appear toward the finish. Fine.Vinous Media | 91 VMAromas of peach, apricot, honey, white flowers and iodine preface the 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and charming wine that’s the most demonstrative premier cru in the cellar this year.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

The 2020 Meursault Les Tillets opens with notes of crisp green apple, freshly baked bread, white flowers and crushed mint. Medium-bodied, satiny and elegant, it’s lively and precise, with a pretty core of fruit and a mouthwatering finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RPThis too is quite firmly reduced and unreadable today. More interesting are the delicate but punchy flavors that evidence plenty of minerality on the vibrant, focused and beautifully well-balanced finale. Once again, more depth would be beneficial, but this wine has an excellent track record in that regard. Worth checking out.Burghound | 89-91 BH

Shows a core of lovely mulberry, cassis and plum reduction flavors that stretch out over a racy graphite note, in turn revealing flashes of anise, apple wood and sweet tobacco. Offers a late tug of warm earth, too. Rock-solid, with an old-school hint. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2026 through 2038.Wine Spectator | 94 WSDried flowers, lots of pot pourri scents on the nose, very aromatic in a floral sense with some rich Cabernet blackcurrant flavours at the back. Smooth and lively, excellent acidity from the get go, this has a nice bounce and push but also a creaminess and a touch of spice so you’re getting a lot of complexity in the mouth. A touch little rustic with clove, green pepper and cinnamon spice but I love the slightly textured grainy tannins and the freshness is there. Definitely learner than I was expecting, with a saline finish and wonderful crystalline aspect to the fruit. Clear, detailed, precise with a sense of classicism.Decanter | 94 DECThe 2020 d’Armailhac is excellent, bursting with aromas of blackberries, violets, burning embers and licorice, followed by a medium to full-bodied, rich and fleshy palate that’s broad but precise, with powdery tannins and a lively core of fruit. It’s a blend of 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThe 2020 d’Armailhac has a very pure bouquet with blackberry, bilberry, crushed iris flowers and hints of potpourri, tightly-wound at first but opening nicely in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly angular tannins at first, fine acidity, pure blackberry and graphite notes becoming more accentuated towards the finish. That could only come from Pauillac. A classy d’Armailhac that bestows great terroir expression and sense of classicism.Vinous Media | 93 VMA fresh, layered red with blackberry and chocolate. It’s full and beautiful. Cool finish. Soft tannins spread across the finish. Savory.James Suckling | 93-94 JSRipe and juicy fruits go along with intense background tannins, giving this wine richness as well as structure. Open and full of fruit, the wine still needs time. Drink the wine from 2026.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEThe 2020 Château D’Armailhac is a blockbuster that’s going to reward patience. Based on 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Petit Verdot, its inky purple hue is followed by a deep, concentrated, mouth-filling Pauillac offering classic darker currant fruits, notes of graphite and lead pencil, building tannins, and outstanding length. This chewy, tannic, backward wine will need 5-7 years of bottle age and will evolve for two decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 91+ JD

94–96. Barrel Sample. This fine estate has produced a powerful, rich wine that has fine potential. Solid, foursquare with dense tannins that will gracefully meld into the fruit, the wine should age well.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WE(Château Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux, France, Red) This has the tight tannins of the vintage with damson and an edge of bitter dark chocolate, but it is a success all the same - confident, succulent, elegant and classic. Philippe Dambrine retires as director of the estate as of this vintage, replaced by Laure Canu from Château Angélus. A yield of 45hl/ha, 40% new oak, 6% Petit Verdot completes the blend. (Drink between 2028-2042)Decanter | 93 DECLots or richness and fruit for this winery, showing blackberry, blackcurrant and dark-chocolate character. It’s full and layered. Well done.James Suckling | 93-94 JSLots of darker currants, cedarwood, lead pencil, and tobacco-like notes emerge from the 2020 Château Cantemerle, and it’s medium-bodied, with lots of fruit and texture, building tannins, and a great finish. Drink this classic, nicely structured, balanced beauty over the coming 10-15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 89-91 JDDeep purple-black in color, the 2020 Cantemerle reveals a great intensity and purity of blackcurrant cordial, stewed plums and black raspberry scents, plus hints of dried Provence herbs, Indian spices and woodsmoke. The medium-bodied palate delivers approachable chewy tannins and just enough freshness to support the savory-laced black fruit flavors, finishing with an herbal lift.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 88-90 RP

15% whole bunch vinification. The colour is noticeably more robust than the preceding wines, as too is the bouquet, backed a little by new oak (30%) but showing a good intensity of robust raspberry fruit on the nose, which carries through across the palate. This has a good balance between fruit and structure. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted Dec 2022.Jasper Morris | 90-92 JM

Brisk fresh pale yellow. There is a fine floral quality here too. Then almost a touch of super-ripeness with a bit of bacon fat, followed by a more saline finish. Interesting and high quality in its style. Drink from 2024-2029. Tasted Oct 2022.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JMHere too there is noticeable petrol character to the floral, mineral reduction and green apple-suffused aromas. The middleweight flavors don’t possess the same density but they are markedly finer and much more mineral-driven on the linear, youthfully austere and crisp finale. This could also use more depth but the underlying material and balance should allow that to occur if given a chance.Burghound | 90-92 BH

A cooler and airier mix is comprised by notes of plum, red and dark currant that are trimmed in noticeable wood and menthol influences. The medium-bodied and vibrant flavors possess a positively gorgeous mouthfeel along with both good richness and minerality while delivering impressive power on the palate staining finish. The wood treatment aside, this is a classic Clos des Chênes.Burghound | 91-93 BH

From the upper part. More sensual perfume here despite the altitude. Fuller white fruit with salinity, tis sufficiently ripe but with a fresh edge. Quite nuanced at the back and with good persistence. Drink from 2025-2030.Jasper Morris | 90-92 JM

Pale colour. A light and elegant nose, some marine notes behind, gentle but showing well, with a little more volume behind, a wave of white fruit and an attractively nuanced finish. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Jul 2023.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

This delightful white from a single lieu-dit in Rully is a marvelous example of the solid quality possible in the Côte Chalonnaise. It boasts ripe apple and linden flower aromas with a hint of butter and spice. The fresh acidity feels fairly chiseled, yet there is enough extract to give the wine a rich texture and lingering finish. Chartron farms three hectares here on the border with Mercurey; the grapes are pressed as whole clusters and run into cask (10% new) for fermentation.Decanter | 91 DEC

Mid crimson purple. The nose is quite discreet, though a mix of strawberry and raspberry fruit then starts to sing out on the palate, along with a little vanilla from the oak. 25% whole bunches adds a little bit of zest. Drink from 2027-2033. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 90-91 JMDerived, as its name suggests, from 10 lieux-dits dispersed around the appellation that together represent fully four hectares, the 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin 10 Climats is medium-bodied, pretty and giving, evocative of sweet berries, spices, petals and orange rind. It will offer a broad drinking window.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 88-90 RPRipe aromas of plum, dark cherry and a distinct earth character gives way to solidly concentrated and voluminous flavors that manage to be at once caressing and punchy, all wrapped in a youthfully austere and lingering finale where the only nit is a touch of warmth.Burghound | 88-91 BH

The 2022 Mâcon-Uchizy Les Maranches has a more austere bouquet demanding some coaxing from the glass. The palate is well-balanced with a saline entry and fine weight in the mouth. Not complex per se, yet it feels quite long and spicy on the finish. Fine.Vinous Media | 90 VM

Pure and airy aromas of mineral reduction, essence of pear, just sliced apple, acacia blossom and a whiff of spice are trimmed in admirably subtle wood. The lively and overtly stony medium weight flavors are sleek to the point of being almost glossy on the youthfully austere, compact and built-to-age finale. This is really quite classy.Burghound | 91 BH

The wide spectrum of citrus, crisp pear and stone fruit aromas announces a remarkable achievement for an entry-level wine. Excellent depth on the racy, medium-bodied palate where the chalky minerality beautifully counterpoints the cool fruit. Crisp, long finish with so much vitality. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold. Screw cap.James Suckling | 92 JSThe 2022 Riesling is from countless vineyards between Scherwiller in the north and the Vallé Noble in the south and mainly based on marl limestone soils. The nose is clear, fresh and intensely aromatic and even displays some Muscat and herbal/stony aromas, which makes it more than just Riesling. On the palate, this is a dry but round and textured, quite rich, intense and powerful yet certainly elegant, savory and stimulating Riesling with food-friendly grip, salts and tension on the crisp finish. 12.8% alcohol. Screw-cap closure. Tasted at the domaine in April 2024.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPTrimbach’s basic Riesling shows the producer’s long experience and know-how with the grape variety. After being handpicked, the grapes were vinified in stainless steel and bottled quickly under screwcap. The wine then aged for a year in bottle before release. It’s a classic expression, youthful and fresh but with a hit of petrol on the nose as the wine starts to mature and evolve. Aromatic with juicy and tangy lime zestiness, bone dry and very moreish. Very well priced too.Decanter Magazine | 91 DECThe 2022 Riesling is blended from the estate and bought fruit from across Alsace with a sizeable portion of Grand Cru vineyards, plus the fruit from young estate vines and Grands Cru fruit that was brought in, mostly from limestone soils, but with some sandstone and volcanic elements. A lovely crackle of flint blends with a touch of chamomile and radiant dried lemon notes, making for an aromatic nose. The palate is juicy, bouncing with energy, with a slight astringency as of citrus peel and pith that bundles this exuberance. The 2022 shows gorgeous tension, lovely dryness and oh so much energy. (Bone-Dry)Vinous Media | 90 VM

Welcome to this smoky and flint Chablis masterpiece that’s only just beginning to reveal it’s enormous depths. Stunning balance and purity on the full-bodied but extraordinarily fresh palate. Great drive at the compact and very clean finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2023.James Suckling | 96 JSLike the Dame Nature Chablis, there is a touch of phenolic character lurking in the background of the aromas that blend white orchard, mineral reduction, shrimp shell with an interesting hint of something akin to a bitter almond nuance. There is again excellent mid-palate density to the very rich, even opulent, larger-bodied flavors that coat the palate with sappy dry extract on the firm, compact and built-to-age finale. At least some patience strongly advised as this is a relatively structured wine in the context of the 2022 vintage.Burghound | 91-94 BHThe 2020 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru spent 14 months in oak and stainless steel vat. It has a clean and precise bouquet with lime, orange pith and light stony aromas, perhaps missing a touch of flair yet it is clearly well defined and gains intensity with time. The palate is well balanced with an ever so slightly honeyed entry. Quite fierce, lightly spiced with hints of vanilla and almond, the only real shortcoming is that it seems to fade prematurely on the finishVinous Media | 90 VM

Fine lemon and lime colour. The bouquet is very alluring and signals a yellow fruit style. Guillaume thinks the plant material is earlier ripening here than in Vergers. The fruit is sunny, the finish remains all lemons and limes. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JMThe 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes 1er Cru has an impressive sense of delineation and poise on the nose, yellow fruit commingling with sea spray and linseed aromas, and a touch of chai tea. The palate is well-balanced with a fine line of acidity, taut and fresh with subtle stem ginger notes towards the Meursault-like finish. Good potential.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Les Levrons has a very fine bouquet with real tension. A slight reduction is well-played (apparently, it comes from the clay-limestone soils). The palate is well-balanced with impressive depth and grip, a subtle nutty/fumé element, and quite a persistent finish. Not one to be ignored, but I would give it 3-4 years in bottle.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMEarly picking here. Pale in colour. An attractive bouquet with spring flowers. Plenty of energy on the palate, a lime thread running through the middle, elegant and fairly long. In fact, the fruit keeps coming back. Fine-boned. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 90-92 JM

For many years now I have felt that Alex Moreau produces the very finest example of Chassagne-Montrachet villages in the entire commune and his 2022 is once again, an outstanding bottle of wine. The bouquet is deep, precise and complex, wafting from the glass in a refined blend of apple, pear, a touch of almond, a beautiful base of chalky soil tones, vanillin oak and a topnote of orange blossoms. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a beautiful core of fruit, excellent soil signature and grip, a fine spine of acidity and a long, well balanced and youthful finish. Like many of the best 2022 white Burgundies, this wine is already quite tasty, but it will be an even better drink if given three or four years’ worth of bottle age to allow it to fully blossom. Fine juice. (Drink between 2025-2050)John Gilman | 92 JGAn even lemon and lime colour. Energy on the nose, not yet so much detail. The palate delivers its usual resounding success, a mass of pure white fruit which builds in intensity to the back and finishes with the lightest of toasty notes which is complementary. Excellent length. Not only is this really good, there are 100 barrels of it! Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMMoreau’s production has diminished to the extent that space is no longer a constraint, meaning that he can afford the 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc a longer élevage on the lees than was hitherto the case. The wine is shaping up nicely, revealing aromas of pear, green apple, white flowers and toasted nuts, followed by a medium to full-bodied, lively and attractively complete palate.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RPThe 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Village has a very composed bouquet with yellow plum, fresh pear and light lemon verbena scents that gain momentum in the glass. The well-balanced palate is harmonious and focused, with a keen line of acidity and a dab of orange rind and peach skin on the finish. A delight.Vinous Media | 89-91 VMSmoke and petrol nuances add breadth to the aromas of rosemary oil, pear and soil tones. There is impressive volume to the dense and seductively textured medium weight flavors thanks to the abundant amount of dry extract that imparts a sappy quality to the lingering, powerful and balanced finale. This is noticeably less refined, indeed it’s mildly rustic, but offers excellent quality for its level. Recommended.Burghound | 89-92 BH