France Wines

wines

The delightful 2014 Meyney marks a year when winemaker Anne Le Naour and her team raised their game once more. A nose of lovely red berry fruit mixed with wilted rose petals and cedar gains intensity with aeration. The palate demonstrates much finer tannins than previous vintages, well-pitched acidity and superb precision on the classically styled finish. This is just entering its drinking plateau. Tasted at a vertical at Château Meyney.Vinous Media | 93 VMMade with consulting advice from Château Angelus’ Hubert de Boüard, the 2014 Meyney is a seriously rich, concentrated 2014 that packs way more character and depth than most in the vintage. And it does it at a great price as well. Blackcurrants, graphite, cedarwood, and tobacco all emerge from this deep, concentrated, burly Saint Estephe that has a great mid-palate and sweet tannin. It has enough fruit to drink nicely today but won’t hit prime time for another 4-5 years and should last for two decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 92+ JDThis is one of the most immediately appealing 2014s from the appellation thanks to its very ripe black fruits, and there’s still a lot of structure behind it. Reminds me of some of Meyney’s top vintages of the 1960s. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 92 JSShows good tension, featuring a singed iron note running from start to finish, wrapped in dark plum and red currant fruit, with savory and tobacco accents. Best from 2019 through 2028. 16,165 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WSWhen I tasted the 2014 Meyney from barrel, I described it as a little gem. Now in bottle, is it still glistening as brightly? Well, it has a delightful, well-defined bouquet of blackberry, cedar and pencil box that is your typical Saint Estèphe. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin on the entry, good weight in the mouth and that Pauillac-like graphite tincture on the finish extant. There is a touch of chewiness here, some rough edges that will need to be abraded by bottle age, but there remains good potential.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 90 RP-NM

The 2014 Richebourg from Charles van Canneyt is stunning, with the elegance and transparency of the vintage finding a perfect dance partner in the depth and succulence of this cru. The superb bouquet wafts from the glass in a blend of red and black plums, cocoa powder, duck, a very complex base of soil tones, woodsmoke, violets and a lovely framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and very refined out of the blocks, with a sappy core of fruit, great mineral drive, suave tannins and stunning backend energy on the precise and very, very long and complex finish. A great young example of Richebourg. (Drink between 2025 - 2075)John Gilman | 97 JGThe 2014 Richebourg Grand Cru has a fabulous bouquet: complex and profound, quite floral in style with wonderful intensity. The palate is medium-bodied, more masculine than the Romanée-Saint-Vivant and perhaps without quite the same riveting tension and detail. That said, it comes across as extraordinarily fresh and vibrant, with hints of undergrowth and smoke towards the structured and masculine finish. It will need a few years to really settle into its groove, but it will surely evolve into a tremendous Richebourg.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPPerfumed with subtle aromas of raspberry and wild strawberry coupled with nuances of cured meat. A very racy wine with a velvety texture and some sweet spices on the finish.Decanter | 95 DECMedium red Distinctly darker on the nose than the RSV, offering scents of blackberry, boysenberry, violet, smoky minerals and spicy oak Sappy, saline, broad and classically dry; distinctly thicker and more backward than the RSV, with its soil character currently dominating its primary fruits Superb volume here but rather uncompromising today; this wine will need a long time to emerge from its shell Finishes with hints of chocolate and mint The RSV shows more oaky sweetness but this wine is more profound (Incidentally, when I tasted the 2014s from bottle at Hudelot-Noëllat in late 2015, this wine showed more high-toned lift and early personality than the Romanée-Saint-Vivant, but then Charles van Canneyt has been telling me for years that these two grand crus are constantly "changing their position in the cellar" during their élevageVinous Media | 93+ VMDiscreet but not invisible wood frames the less expressive but similarly spicy nose of fresh and ripe plum, cassis and violet scents that also display a hint of herbal tea. There is outstanding volume and intensity to the lightly mineral-inflected big-bodied flavors that possess very fine depth and length on the well-balanced finale. This is very firmly structured and is going to require at least a decade of cellaring before it will be approachable.Burghound | 93 BH

A sleek, lean cat, with distilled currant and raspberry fruit that races from start to finish, maintaining tension throughout thanks to a riveting chalky spine. A light floral hint hangs in the background. Should develop into a perfumy beauty with time. Best from 2022 through 2035. 3,167 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSA step back from the sensational 2015, yet still an incredible wine that checks in near the top of the vintage, the 2014 Clos Fourtet offers an elegant, seductive style as well as perfumed notes of ripe cherries, strawberries, spice and exotic flowers, with a touch of minerality coming through with time in the glass. Playing in the medium-bodied end of the spectrum, with ultra-fine tannin and a beautiful elegance and persistence, it’s already impossible to resist yet I suspect will cruise in the cellar on its balance.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDThe 2014 Clos Fourtet has developed a very perfumed bouquet with pure black cherry, raspberry and mineral aromas that seem very precise and relatively sophisticated compared to its Saint Emilion peers. The palate is medium-bodied with supple red cherry and cranberry fruit, the tannins both fine but firm. This is a supremely well-focused Clos Fourtet, perhaps one that shows more restraint than previous vintages, yet there is genuine focus and intensity towards the almost piercing finish with vivid black, mineral-soaked fruit. This is a superb Clos Fourtet that transcends the promise from barrel.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2014 Clos Fourtet has an extremely perfumed and floral bouquet with red cherries, crushed strawberry and a touch of orange peel and vanilla pod. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, crisp acidity, harmonious and poised, with a long mineral-driven finish that retains a sense of classicism and style. Serious...but delicious. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting.Vinous Media | 94 VMFar too early to enjoy, this 2014 is at first imperceptible aromatically, suggesting lead pencil. The palate has some 2011 like steeliness but more three dimensional, almost like a young Pauillac. A great wine can be delicious young, but it can also close down - and this seems to be the case of the 2014, which from barrel was superb for energy and ripeness. A conservative score for now . 3.57pH.Decanter | 94 DECRipe black-cherry aromas lead the nose of this wine that’s fruity while having just enough structure to promise aging. It’s fresh and crisp, with a cut of structure in the background. The aftertaste brings out a smokier, toasty character that does show its future maturation potential.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEThe richness and decadence of this are so pretty. Medium to full body and firm and silky tannins. Juicy and long. Flavorful. Needs time to soften. Austerity will turn to great beauty. Try in 2020.James Suckling | 93 JS

The 2014 Talbot is soft, silky and wonderfully nuanced on the palate. Much more refined from bottle than it was from barrel, the 2014 has moved toward greater finesse over the last two years. This is a lovely effort. Lifted rose petal and lavender notes add closing nuance. The blend is 62 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 35 % Merlot and 6 % Petit Verdot. Tasted two times.Antonio Galloni | 94 AGThe smoky oak, full body and chunky tannins make a bold statement; indeed, the wine has plenty of flesh and packs a big tannic punch on the finish. Best Talbot in years. Drink in 2023.James Suckling | 94 JSGood, firm fruits are well placed, with notes of cedar, liquorice and cassis – this really is an enjoyable Talbot that offers the promise of a long life. There’s enjoyable grip and tenacity through the palate, with spicy, flexible tannins. It has a substantial weight that fleshes out and deepens. It’s savoury in the French sense of ’savoureux’, with connotations of juiciness and a ’give me more’ appeal. Aged in 50% new oak. Drinking Window 2024 - 2038.Decanter | 93 DECThis has melded together nicely already, with a core of gently steeped plum, blackberry and anise flavors intertwined with light licorice snap and roasted apple wood notes. Focused and solid, but with a charming supple edge. Best from 2020 through 2030. 26,283 cases made. Wine Spectator | 92 WSThis generous wine is on the fruity side of the 2014 spectrum. Blueberry and black-currant fruits are supported by the spice and tannins from wood aging. The wine is likely to develop easily over the medium term. Drink from 2020.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEThe 2014 Talbot felt reticent and tightly knit on the nose, so I placed my glass to one side and allowed it to aerate for 15-20 minutes. This paid dividends as it revealed blackcurrant, smoke and tobacco aromas, hints of boysenberry with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, quite structure and perhaps needing more flow. It feels a little rigid at the moment and I would want more persistence and depth on the finish. Let’s see how this ages in bottle, because it certainly showed improvement between samples in October 2016 and February 2017.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 90+ RP-NMCut from the same cloth as the 2015, just more classic in style, the 2014 Château Talbot offers lots of black fruits, smoked herbs, graphite and a touch of lead pencil on the nose. This is followed by a classically styled, medium-bodied, dense, impressively concentrated 2014 that has another 10-15 years of prime drinking. This is always a well-made, classic Saint-Julien and readers can’t go wrong here.Jeb Dunnuck | 90 JD

Ripe and fruity, the wine is a great success. It has juicy berry fruits that are underpinned by the firm tannins and mineral structure. It is full while also crisp: a wine that is deliciously perfumed. Drink from 2024.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEThe complex savory, herbal and earthy nose leads into a medium-bodied wine with some real concentration and a nice freshness on the finish, where there are some serious but well-integrated tannins. Drink in 2020.James Suckling | 92 JSThe 2014 de Fieuzal is a bold, racy wine. Sweet red cherry, iron, smoke and tobacco give the wine its distinctive flavor profile. The tannins have softened quite a bit over the last 18 months, which has allowed the fruit to show lovely succulence and creaminess. Drink this juicy Pessac-Leognan now and over the next handful of years. There is plenty to like in this expressive sleeper wine for the vintage. Tasted two times.Antonio Galloni | 91 AGClosed black cherry aroma, not generous now but there is subdued power and tannic hold. House style is evident: firm and big, less lift than other Pessac estates, but the dark, bristling fruit is obvious and there is excellent potential for ageing. Drinking Window 2023 - 2035.Decanter | 91 DECThe 2014 De Fieuzal was following the Domaine de Chevalier Rouge and frankly that’s a difficult act to follow. It certainly does not possess the same precision of fruit concentration, perhaps enduring a reticent, broody stage of its evolution. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and well-judged acidity. Here perhaps more representative of the wine, building in the mouth towards a lovely cedar-tinged finish, leaving you on a high note. Hopefully the aromatics will develop with bottle age and then it will merit a higher score.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 90+ RP-NMRipe, fleshy and fun, with lots of friendly blackberry, boysenberry and raspberry preserve notes gliding through, structured by refined tannins and backed by light tar, anise and black tea details. Best from 2018 through 2024. 665 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Has a velvety edge, with notes of steeped plum and warm cherry sauce, flecked with light tobacco and savory hints. Offers a gentle, pretty finish. Drink now through 2024. 3,667 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WSThe mellow richness and generous scale of this wine helps to keep the tannins in check. Full and juicy. Drink in 2019.James Suckling | 90 JS

Not shy, with unctuous dried apricot, peach and tangerine fruit flavors, augmented with ginger, bitter orange and bitter almond notes that add tension. Expressive, with a floral twinge on the finish imparting lift. Best from 2020 through 2040. 2,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe lush mango and papaya nose leads into a wonderfully rich and concentrated palate, which also has bright acidity that really lights the whole thing up and pulls your hand back to the glass for more! Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSAlready beautifully balanced, this wine is intense, rich and full of layered acidity and concentrated honey flavors. It’s ripe, opulent and dense, with spice notes and acidity highlighting its rich core. Drink from 2024.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEComposed of 65% Semillon and 35% Sauvignon Blanc, the pale lemon-gold colored 2014 Guiraud opens with notes of honeyed apricots, lemon marmalade and beeswax followed by touches of musk perfume and lightly browned toast. The palate is wonderfully refreshing with plenty of zippy citrus fruit and a long perfumed finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThe 2014 Guiraud has a very attractive bouquet, not unlike a Mosel Auslese in some ways, very well defined and minerally with honey, apricot blossom and a light petrolly scent. The palate is very detailed with a killer line of acidity, a touch of ginger and rhubarb on the entry, segueing into some vibrant orange zest and honeyed notes towards the viscous finish. Not as weighty or as concentrated as some Sauternes but this is very pure and feels very long in the mouth. Excellent. Tasted in Bordeaux.Vinous Media | 93 VMTropical and orchard fruits are lifted by spicy botrytis notes, crystallised ginger and lemon verbena. Balanced and refined, yet bigger than usual but remarkably fresh thanks to vibrant acidity. Drinking Window 2020 - 2040.Decanter | 93 DEC

A tight and subtle wine with very pretty ripe-fruit character and chocolate. Medium to full body. Needs time to open. Better in 2020.James Suckling | 94 JSFor whatever reason, Chateau Clinet was not interested in having their 2015 tasted for this report and I was unable to taste it during my trip through the region. I’ll do my best to review it from bottle once it’s available in the United States. Nevertheless, I purchased a bottle of the 2014 Château Clinet locally and it showed beautifully, revealing a deep purple color, loads of plum, crème de cassis, spice-box, dried flowers, and graphite aromas and flavors, full-bodied richness, and a terrific minerality the developed with time in the glass. This is an elegant, balanced, beautifully pure 2014 that’s very much in the style of the vintage. It will keep for 20+ years.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDDark in profile, featuring a steeped core of fig and blackberry fruit that melds with roasted apple wood and ganache notes through the finish. Shows plenty of muscle, but the refined structure leads to a very long finish, boding well for the cellar. Best from 2020 through 2035. 4,750 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WSThe 2014 Clinet was a wine that perplexed when I tasted it from barrel and as a consequence, it was one that I went back and retasted three or four times during that primeur campaign. Now in bottle, the bouquet has improved and developed more fruit concentration, armed with red plum, wild strawberry and blueberry scents. The palate is medium-bodied and quite refined, certainly not as opulent as other vintages from the estate, perhaps just missing a persistence on the angular finish. It is not a bad Clinet by a long stretch, it just feels a little constricted, especially compared to say the 2010 or 2015. I tasted this on three occasions, drawing the same conclusion each time.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPThe 2014 Clinet is a wine that left me "perplexed" when I tasted it multiple times both from barrel and in bottle. The litmus test is how it shows blind... Here it has a lifted bouquet with truffle and smoke-infused red fruit, a subtle hickory note coming through with aeration. One or two attendees at the tasting suggested brettanomyces. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly chewy tannin, spicy in the mouth with a dash of white pepper towards the firm, quite masculine and angular finish. Two bottles tasted with consistent notes. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting.Vinous Media | 90 VM

Aromas of flowers, stones and hints of tobacco. Medium-bodied, very fine and pretty. The 18% cabernet sauvignon and 13% cabernet franc make the difference. Coolest Quinault ever. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSThe 2014 Quinault L’Enclos has meat and dried blood-infused red fruit on the nose, possibly with some expressive Cabernet Franc in the mix. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly green tannins on the entry that are framed by fresh black fruit. There is fine tension and a sense of energy conveyed by the finish and it should age well. Time to raise my score. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting.Vinous Media | 92 VMThe 2014 Quinault l’Enclos, which was the first vintage to utilize larger 500-liter barrels and also the first to utilize the newly planted Cabernet Sauvignon to lend structure. Now in bottle, this Saint Emilion has an attractive bouquet with brambly red berry fruit, predominantly raspberry preserve and a touch of loganberries. The oak here is neatly folded into the fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannin on the entry. Although the Cabernet Sauvignon does lend more backbone, I was quite surprised how approachable this Quinault l’Enclos is, partly because of the growing season. It is certainly harmonious, without enormous depth or grip, the dash of black pepper on the finish a pleasing way to finish off.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 90 RP-NMThe wine from this estate within the city of Libourne is packed with the most delicious Merlot. Ripe, layered with acidity and with intense red fruits, it is a rich red. Red currant and red-berry flavors dominate this generous full-bodied wine. Drink from 2022.Wine Enthusiast | 90 WE

Tight tannins mask the ripe fruit in a wine that is set for long-term aging, so there is a dry core that dominates at the moment. But not for long: the bold black fruits are insistent and are going to be delicious. This is a structured wine that will be ready in 2026Wine Enthusiast | 95 WESo perfumed with a freshness and beauty that is amazing. Blackberries, black cherries and violets. Full-bodied yet so polished and velvety. Gorgeous finish. A beauty. Best ever in bottle from here? Drink in 2020.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2014 Malartic-Lagraviere had quite a high-toned, upfront bouquet with kirsch, crushed strawberry, iodine and iris scents that do not hold back. The palate is rounded on the entry with supple tannin, possesses slightly lower acidity than its peers yet remains balanced. There is impressive depth to this Malartic-Lagravière with a subtle white pepper/sage note towards the finish. Though it will be overshadowed by the 2015, this is a well-crafted Pessac-Léognan with the chutzpah that it showed in barrel.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2014 Malartic-Lagravière has a crisp and focused bouquet with precise blackberry and briary scents, a lovely undercurrent of mineralité. The palate is beautifully balanced on the entry with rounded, quite concentrated black fruit. There is a lot of extraction here and I fear that they may have found a touch of under-ripe tannin towards the finish, which is a shame because the nose is so damn gorgeous! Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting.Vinous Media | 92 VMThere’s an austerity here but also a clear, striking quality to the fruit. It’s a good wine, almost ready to drink, and yet it’s holding back a few tricks. It doesn’t have the generosity of ’15 - you can feel the tannins pulling in a little harder on the finish, not as smile-inducing - and yet this is extremely well made, carefully extracted and well delivered. 5% Cabernet Franc completes the blend.Decanter | 92 DECVery solid, with a core of dark plum, blackberry and fig preserve notes held in check by tarry grip. Ample singed apple wood and cocoa elements form the frame. Give this time to meld fully. Best from 2019 through 2026. 9,167 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WSA terrific success in the vintage, the 2014 Chateau Malartic-Lagraviere is a blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot that was brought up in 70% new oak. Hitting 13.5% natural alcohol, it offers a vibrant ruby/purple color as well as vibrant aromatics of cherries, mulberries, red plums, exotic flowers, and lead pencil shavings. Medium-bodied and beautifully polished and elegant, with solid acidity, it’s a juicy, vibrant, fresh 2014 that’s going to drink nicely for 15-20 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 91 JD

Fascinating aromas of dark fruit, smoke and dried flowers. The palate is full and juicy yet still delivers a solid and polished tannin structure as well as a good backbone of acidity, which adds depth and definition. Solid wine. Great value for the quality. Better in 2020.James Suckling | 93 JSThe 2014 d’Aiguilhe has a wonderful, quite detailed bouquet with black cherries, melted tar, minerals and a touch of sea spray. The palate is well balanced with supple red and black fruit, well-judged acidity, very feminine and lithe in the mouth with a caressing and very pure finish. This is just a sublime d’Aiguilhe that will give several years of drinking pleasure.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPThis has an ample core of lively plum, blackberry and anise notes that is silky in feel, but has heft and persistence. The finish pulls in a singed apple wood note, but the purity of fruit wins out easily overall. Drink now through 2024. 19,200 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WSStephan von Neipperg of Château Canon la Gaffelière was an early proponent of Castillon vineyard potential and chose this property which is on the same ridge as Saint-Emilion. Fruity and ripe, this is a generous wine. Finely structured tannins back up the black-currant fruits and give the wine a texture that bodes well for the future. Drink from 2019.Wine Enthusiast | 91 WE

If you want to know what St.-Estèphe smells like, this is it. Aromas of spices, black truffles, forest floor, dried strawberries and tar. It’s full-bodied yet pinpointed on the palate with fabulous density and richness. It’s opulent but in a reserved and checked way. This needs at least five or six years to come around, but it’s already fantastic. What harmony and structure. Try in 2022 if you can keep your hands off it!James Suckling | 98 JSThis is an immensely dense wine that is going to be a classic. The dark tannins are still lined with wood aging but that will go because the fruit underneath is also just as dense and intense. Blackberry, black plum and damson plum give power and sweetness. This is a great wine with huge potential. Drink from 2028.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEThe 2014 Cos d’Estournel is rich, powerful and seductive, with notable unctuousness but a medium-bodied frame. Plum, blackberry jam, bittersweet chocolate and lavender notes flesh out in an effortless, sumptuous wine that will provide superb drinking for the next few decades. The 2014 needs time to shed some baby fat, but it is quite impressive, even in the early going. The blend is 65 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 33 % Merlot and 2 % Cabernet Franc.Antonio Galloni | 95+ AGThe grand vin 2014 Cos D’Estournel is gorgeous, and I think a step up over the 2015. A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc, this deep, inky-colored 2014 boasts a gorgeous perfume of ripe currants and cassis fruits, loads of chocolaty oak, cedar and scorched earth, full-bodied richness, and building, firm, yet ripe tannin. It’s certainly one of the gems in the vintage, as well as one of the more structured, opulent and age-worthy. Give bottles 4-5 years of bottle age and enjoy over the following two to three decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDThere’s a clear consistency across Cos d’Estournel’s wines – the quality is absolutely unmissable, but don’t open the 2014 just yet. Remember that from the end of August the weather really favoured St-Estèphe, with the result that all those key elements - tannins, acidity and fruit - are here in force. It’s still young and closed, with tight tannins, but after 10 minutes or so in the glass olive paste and rosemary notes emerge, followed by graphite and bilberry fruit. Give it time, then reap the rewards. Drinking Window 2024 - 2040.Decanter | 95 DECA blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc, the 2014 Cos d’Estournel has a deep garnet-purple color and is a little closed at this stage, offering slowly emerging scents of fresh blackcurrants, black plums and blackberries plus nuances of pencil shavings, dried lavender, bay leaves and fertile loam with a waft of iron ore. Medium to full-bodied, it has a generous mid-palate of muscular, youthful fruit with a firm frame of grainy tannins and seamless freshness, finishing long and savory.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPIntense, with a roiling core of luscious loganberry, blackberry and black currant fruit. Singed spice, apple wood and black tea accents emerge steadily on the finish. Has a rare combination of density and precision. Will cruise in the cellar. Best from 2020 through 2035. 14,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS