France Wines

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I loved the 2021 Lirac Blanc, one of those whites that truly over-delivers. Beautiful notes of pear, white flowers, citrus, and some salty, mineral-like nuances define this beauty, and it’s medium-bodied, with terrific balance, integrated acidity, and a great, great finish. Bravo. Drink this over the coming 2-4 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDThere’s a touch of oak on the nose and palate that helps to frame the tangy citrus notes, and lends a touch of spice, but it’s far from overwhelming. Full-bodied, classically Lirac in its breadth on the palate. Ends on a nip of grapefruit bitterness. Good acidity. Also contains Marsanne, Viognier and Piquepoul.Decanter | 92 DECBrimming with stone-fruit aromas with a touch of mango, this is a rich but very clean and crisp dry white from the Southern Rhone. Good concentration and a touch of positive tannin help it carry the generous body and 14.5% alcohol. From organically grown grapes. Drink now.James Suckling | 90 JS

The 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape Deus Ex Machina is a strong candidate to be wine of the vintage. A blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvèdre, it combines scents of black truffles and black cherries with hints of cedar and vanilla (the Mourvèdre is aged in new oak, the Grenache in concrete). It’s full-bodied and concentrated, supple and almost creamy in feel, then long and velvety on the finish. Bravo.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPPossibly the wine of the vintage (at least at this early stage), the 2021 Châteauneuf Du Pape Deus-Ex Machina is a 60/40 split of Grenache and Mourvedre, with the Grenache brought up in foudre and the Mourvedre in demi-muids. Its vivid ruby/purple hue is followed by rock star notes of kirsch, blackberries, cured meats, woodsmoke, and dried flowers. Rich, full-bodied, and concentrated, it’s an incredible effort in this challenging vintage.Jeb Dunnuck | 94-96+ JD

Not included in the blind tasting at the local syndicat, Tempier’s 2021 Bandol Rose nevertheless looked good when I tasted it at the estate. It’s a very fine, elegant example of Bandol rosé, with notes of passion fruit and pink grapefruit leading the way in a tightly knit, medium-bodied package that adds promising hints of white peach and anise on the lingering finish.Robert Parker | 93 RP

The 2022 Rosé BY.Ott is such a complete wine. It’s just so elegantly put together. Orange oil, strawberry fruit, strawberry top (yes, the leafy part), ruby red grapefruit and fresh mint form an intoxicating bouquet as the 2022 puts on weight in the glass, especially in the mid-palate. Fresh, lively, juicy, salivating—all of these apply. A satisfying mineral bitterness tugs at the tongue as the wine exits the mouth, lingering with the subtlest hint of fruit sweetness. The finish is long and measured. Very well done. - Billy NorrisVinous Media | 92 VM

The 2022 Languedoc Les Darons brings more density and richness, with ripe black cherries, wild strawberry, ground pepper, and floral notes in a medium to full-bodied, pure, beautifully balanced package. The purity and balance here are top-notch. The blend is 70% Grenache, 25% Syrah, and the rest Carignan, from old vines, with the aging in concrete. This is going to be a smoking value.Jeb Dunnuck | 92-94 JDA well-made red from old grenache with notes of cherries, blueberries, stones and black pepper. Medium body with fine, firm tannins. Textured and balanced with a compact and juicy peppery finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 92 JS

In the arms race of bottle shapes and vibrant shades of pink, Jean-François Ott’s wines stand out for their restraint, even in Bandol. This wine channeled the hot, dry summer of 2022 into a silky texture that quietly undergirds a complex strawberry flavor, complete with the leafy tops. This is the first certified-organic vintage from the estate, and the health of the fruit is apparent in the elegance of the wine—lasting with mouthwatering savor, its acidity and tannins cleaning up after themselves like a neurotic houseguest. For me, elegance in rosé is defined by its ability to be simply delicious, but complex and rewarding under scrutiny—a test this wine passes with flying pink colors. Wine & Spirits Magazine | 95 W&SBoasts a beautiful core of fleshy white fruit and red currant, with mineral density and concentration on the palate. Richly textured and pure, with nice range to the dried hay, fresh chive, citrus pith and jasmine elements. Reveals a bitter quinine note, which brings focus to the long, harmonious finish. Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Grenache. Drink now through 2027. 6,100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSThis is a rich wine, its Mourvèdre giving concentration and a fine structure. From one of the Ott domaines, it has spice as well as layers of red fruits. Drink from later this year. Organic. Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEThe 2022 Rosé Château Romassan wafts up from the glass with a pretty blend of stone dust and savory herbs accentuating wild strawberry hints. It’s silky and pliant on the palate, showing crisp orchard fruits, sour citrus and minerals that add a more tactile feel toward the close. This finishes potent and with admirable length. Young peach and sage hints slowly fade. - Eric GuidoVinous Media | 91 VM

The 2022 Rosé Château de Selle Cru Classé opens with a striking bouquet, blending dusty dried flowers with ginger, a spritz of lemon and crushed apples. It’s supple and soothing to the senses, with a textural wave of white strawberry, candied orange and sweet inner florals. A core of brilliant acidity maintains a fantastic balance as this tapers off long and potent. A mineral staining and citrus hints tease the taste buds. Please pour me another.Vinous Media | 93 VM

Pale apricot color with aromas of pomegranates, grapefruit, rosemary, lavender and peaches. Fresh and delicate, yet fragrant and flavorful, with a medium body and bright acidity. Lovely fresh pink fruit. Drink and enjoy.James Suckling | 91 JS

Subtle aromas of red berries and blood orange with intensely elevated focused and juicy flavors of same with addition of slight tropical notes like grilled pineapple and star fruit. The finish is slightly chalky with white pepper. This is a wine that you simply can’t put down and leaves you begging for another sip. Delish!Sokolin Tasting Panel | 95

Light coral in hue. Bursting with lively aromas of ripe strawberries, zesty blood oranges, and delicate floral notes, intertwined with hints of aromatic herbs. On the palate, it is crisp and focused, showcasing dynamic flavors of red berries, tangy tangerines, and subtle florals, which evolve gracefully towards the finish. Sokolin Tasting Panel | 92 SP

Made from 40% each of Grenache Blanc and Roussanne and the rest Clairette, brought up all in wood, (2/3 demi-muids and 1/3 barrels, 5% new), the 2022 Châteauneuf Du Pape Grand Vin Blanc is one of – if not the – white of the vintage. White peach, citrus oil, green almonds, brioche, and toasty notes define the aromatics, and it’s full-bodied, with a layered, concentrated yet focused mouthfeel, good acidity (pH 3.4), and a great finish. It’s a stunning white from the south that I wish every reader could taste. It will evolve for 15 years or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JDThe Guigal team have done much to resuscitate this estate, and this 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape Grand Vin Blanc is indeed a great wine. Scents of ripe pears, pineapples and tangerines are accented by hints of pencil shavings on the nose, while the medium to full-bodied palate is honeyed, silky and harmonious, concentrated, elegant and long. It’s mainly Grenache and Roussanne, with close to 20% Clairette and tiny amounts of Picardin and Picpoul Blanc.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPA full-bodied expression, the generous fruit is further accentuated by flowing, silky oak – all cut through, thankfully, by a line of acidity and a long finish. Plenty of impact, no lack of intensity or concentration. Give it a year or two for the oak to fully integrate.Decanter | 94 DECIn spite of the full body and richness of this wine, this has a clarity and coolness that make it very satisfying. Plenty of ripe apricot and melon character. A cuvee based on roussanne with a good amount of grenache blanc and some clairette. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JS

The 2022 Rosé Clos Mireille Cru Classé is dreamy, wafting up with a perfumed blend of nectarine, sweet white flowers and white strawberry. Like pure silk on the palate, this soothes with its ripe orchard fruits, which are gently contrasted by a bitter tinge of sour citrus as juicy acidity adds fleshy depths. The 2022 cleans up beautifully as inner florals and confectionary spice echo throughout. This is a gorgeous Rosé today, yet it should evolve beautifully for years.Vinous Media | 93+ VMInstantly brilliant in the glass, the 2022 Cotes de Provence Rose ClosMireille, a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Cinsault and the balance of Rolle (or Vermentino), exhales aromas of red berries, lemon, peach, guava and hints of curry leaf. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, combining fineacidity and a salty, penetrating, mouthwatering finish. It’s one of the moregourmand, fleshy, generous wines in the Domaines Ott range.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

The 2023 Cheverny Blanc from François Cazin is crafted from its customary blend of eighty percent sauvignon blanc and twenty percent chardonnay, with the two grapes fermented together and aged in stainless steel and older oak foudres. The wine is bright and classy, offering up a refined nose of gooseberry, green apple, a beautiful base limestone soil, lovely grassiness and a topnote of dried flowers. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and nicely round on the attack from the chardonnay component, with a fine core of fruit, lovely acids and grip and a long, complex and beautifully balanced finish. This is really lovely. 2024-2034. 92.John Gilman | 92 JG

Deep, glistening amber-pink in the glass, the 2023 Rosé Les Commandeurs is expressive and especially pretty, with an engaging bouquet of ripe pear, honeysuckle, baked apple and sweet spices. Well-proportioned, it strikes a fine balance of suppleness, juiciness and grip, propped up against a backdrop of typical Provençal salinity. All this is missing is some depth through the mid-palate—it’s just a little ethereal. A pleasant vanilla nuance shows up right at the tail end, rendering this a little creamier than expected. Lovely. This is a fine effort. - Billy NorrisVinous Media | 90 VM

As always, this estate crafted one of the most perfumed and complex rosé wines in France. The 2023 Bandol Rose exhales aromas of spring flowers, guava, lemon, spices and iodine mingled with delicate licorice hints. Medium-bodied, textural and layered, it’s perfectly balanced with a fleshy core of fruit and bright acids, concluding with a long, mineral and iodine-inflected finish. Kudos!Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

Bright and vivid nose with strawberries, dried raspberries, cherry blossoms and a light, spicy undertone. Medium-bodied, round-textured and lengthy with lots of energy and a crisp, mineral backbone. Round and textural finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink now.James Suckling | 93 JS

The NV Brut Rosé Prestige is a beautiful wine. Sweet, perfumed fruit emerges from this crisp, layered Champagne. Ideally the Brut Rosé Prestige is best enjoyed as an aperitif as the light to medium-bodied frame is likely to be overwhelmed by food. This is truly a lovely effort for such a large property. Disgorged end of May 2008, (not indicated on label)Antonio Galloni | 94 AGDarker color. Lots of fruit and a creamy texture with cooked apples and cherries and strawberry undertones. Medium to full body. Delicious finish that is dry and fruity. Spicy. White pepper. Young strawberry at the end. Drink now.James Suckling | 92 JSThe latest release of Taittinger’s NV Brut Prestige Rosé is showing very well, revealing inviting aromas of red berries, plums, orange zest, crisp orchard fruit and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy but incisive, this bottling is based on the Brut Réserve, yet the addition of still red wine—much of which is produced in house—imparts structuring phenolics that complement the wine’s generous core of fruit to great effect. Readers should not that this cuvée’s clear glass makes it vulnerable to light strike, so it’s especially important to buy properly stored bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPVanilla and red fruit nose. Crisp, refreshing palate with notes of cherry, vanilla, almond, patisserie and a soft mousse.Decanter | 91 DECA fresh rosé Champagne that offers an accessible mix of baked strawberry, toasted almond, candied pink grapefruit peel and spice flavors set on the lively, persistent mousse. Drink now. 65,000 cases made, 1,800 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WSThe current release of Taittinger’s “Prestige Rosé” non-vintage Brut is composed from a blend of seventy percent pinot noir and thirty percent chardonnay, with fifteen percent of the pinot being still red wine from the villages of Ambonnay and Bouzy. This gives the wine its beautiful, deep salmon color. The wine delivers a lovely aromatic constellation of strawberries, rhubarb, chalky soil tones, fresh-baked rye bread and a topnote of rose petals. On the palate the wine is brisk, full-bodied and still quite youthful, with a lovely core, elegant mousse, good mineral drive, a snappy girdle of acidity and a long, nascently complex finish. This is a tad tight out of the blocks, but the wine has a history of blossoming beautifully with just a bit of bottle age and I imagine that by next year, it will be drinking with lovely generosity. (Drink between 2022-2040)John Gilman | 90+ JG

(NV R.H. Coutier Brut Cuvée Rosé Grand Cru Rosé) A moderately fruity yet beautifully complex nose speaks of a variety of red berries along with hints of green apple, pear and yeast. With air the flavors really open up to reveal the same outstanding complexity as displayed by the nose along with excellent verve and a very fine mousse, all wrapped in a tangy and dry finish that just avoids a trace of austerity. As to drinkability, this is actually delicious now, though those that prefer their rosés with a bit of age could cellar this with confidence as well. In a word, terrific and it also offers simply wonderful value. (Drink starting 2013)Burghound | 93 BHThe NV Brut Rose Grand Cru would be a highlight in virtually every other cellar, but here the competition is quite stiff. This release is built on the 2008 vintage, and it is the personality of the year that comes through most. Expressive red berries, flowers, mint and crushed rocks burst from the glass as this energetic wine shows off its pure vibrancy and class. Coutier’s NV Brut Rose is another clear winner. Disgorged May 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016.Coutier is one of my favorite among Champagne’s smaller houses. The wines always deliver tons of quality at reasonable prices. The estate is located in Ambonnay, a village with a reputation for broad-shouldered Champagnes. Coutier lists disgorgement dates on their corks, which is better than nothing but far from consumer-friendly. This is the last year I will review the Coutier NV wines until disgorgement dates appear on back labels.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPA pure note of macerated cherry is backed by a firm acidity in this lively rosé Champagne, while a subtle, smoky underpinning and hints of pink grapefruit peel and grated ginger ride the creamy bead. Disgorged December 2019. Drink now through 2023. 500 cases made, 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WSNo written review provided. | 91 W&SThe NV Brut Rosé Grand Cru is bright, airy and effusive, all of which give it tremendous charm. Crushed red berry fruit, mint, spice and dried cherry fruit all take shape effortlessly. This attractive, understated Rosé is full of charm, but also looks to be a near-term drinker. This release is 85% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Noir (including a portion of still red wine), based on 2016 with 40% reserve wines. Dosage is 6 grams per liter. Disgorged: February, 2021.Antonio Galloni | 90 AG(NV R. H. Coutier Brut Rosé NV (Ambonnay)) The Coutier family’s bottling of Brut Rosé in the market today is from the base year of 2015, with forty percent of the blend composed of reserve wines. The cépages is eighty-five percent chardonnay and fifteen percent pinot noir and the wine was disgorged in December of 2019 and finished with a dosage of seven grams per liter. All of the pinot noir in the blend is still red wine. The new release offers up a beautiful bouquet of cherries, rhubarb, rye bread, chalky soil tones and orange zest in the upper register. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and youthfully zesty, with a good core of fruit and soil signature, frothy mousse and lovely length and grip on the nascently complex and youthful finish. This is still fairly primary and further bottle age will be nicely rewarded. (Drink between 2022-2035)John Gilman | 90+ JG

(55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay; 9 g/l dosage; LAH9V): Light orange. Sharply focused red berry and tangerine scents are complicated by suggestions of allspice and cinnamon, with a hint of smokiness in the background. Sappy and minerally on the palate, offering fresh strawberry and blood orange flavors lifted by juicy acidity. Packs a serious punch but carries no excess weight and finishes stony and very long, with echoing red berry character.Vinous Media | 92 VM...Sharply focused red berry and tangerine scents are complicated by suggestions of allspice and cinnamon, with a hint of smokiness in the background. Sappy and minerally on the palate, offering fresh strawberry and blood orange flavors lifted by juicy acidity. Packs a serious punch but carries no excess weight and finishes stony and very long, with echoing red berry character.Vinous Media | 92 VMRaspberry and nectarine fruit flavors are ripe and appealing in this elegant rosé Champagne, with a fine, satiny mousse, neatly layered with accents of ground ginger, blanched almond and blood orange pith. Lightly mouthwatering, offering a lingering finish. Drink now through 2021.Wine Spectator | 92 WSA blend of 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay, and featuring around 25% reserve wines, this is 100% premier cru fruit from the Montagne des Reims and Côte des Blancs. Almost a third of the Pinot Noir was vinified as a still wine. A deep coral colour, this is fresh and youthful, with rounded wild red berry fruit, and hint of rose. With some time in the glass, it develops deeper, complex, more exotic notes, leading to a long and lively finish. Dosage: 8g/L. Drinking Window 2021 - 2026.Decanter | 92 DECStrawberry and pomegranate-infused yeasty autolysis aromas with freshly baked pastry and fresh bready notes. The palate has ripe peach fruits, strawberries and some hints of pink grapefruit. Sweetness, richness and a lively acid kick. Berry pie finish. Drink now.James Suckling | 92 JS(NV Dom Ruinart Brut Rosé NV (Reims)) The new release of non-vintage Dom Ruinart Brut Rosé is really a beautiful color, with cherry highlights in its deep salmon most inviting. The cépages is forty-five percent chardonnay and fifty-five percent pinot noir, with the wine going through full malo and finished with a dosage of nine grams per liter. I do not know what percentage of the pinot noir in the blend is still wine. The nose is really first class, wafting from the glass in a deep and complex blend of cherries, blood orange, rye bread, complex soil tones, a touch of cinnamon stick, orange peel and rose petals in the upper register. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and solid at the core, with fine focus and grip, lovely balance, elegant mousse and a long, classy finish. Good juice that should be even better with a few years’ worth of bottle age. (Drink between 2016-2035).John Gilman | 91+ JGIn the generous style that is Ruinart, the wine is full with red fruits that are mouthfilling and rich. At the same time, there is a crisp streak of mineral texture that cuts through the wine to give a bright aftertaste. Drink this beautifully balanced Champagne now.Wine Enthusiast | 91 WE

One of the best value grandes marques on the market, a blend of 60 crus, with roughly a third each of Pinot Noir, Meunier and Chardonnay, vinified individually by cru and variety, in stainless steel. Compared to other grandes marques, it is high (40%) in reserve wines, averaging 10 years old and dating back to 1990. Quite a floral style with lemon sherbet intensity and bready, leesy characters. It has great concentration and complexity, with a lovely grip of acidity on the finish. Drinking Window 2020 - 2025.Decanter | 93 DEC(NV Charles Heidsieck “Brut Réserve” NV (Reims)) The new release of Charles Heidsieck noon-vintage “Brut Réserve” is a blend of one-third each chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier- for the base year wines, which hail from 2008. However, forty percent of the cuvée is made up of reserve wines, with these being an equal blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, as the maison does not hold back meunier for its reserves. The wine spent eight years aging sur latte and was finished with a dosage of eleven grams per liter after its disgorgement in 2017. The wine is absolutely superb and clearly one of the best bargains out there in the world of non-vintage Brut from the Grandes Marques, as it offers up a pure and complex nose of pear, white peach, brioche, a touch of fresh almond, complex, chalky soil tones and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and refined, with excellent mid-palate depth, frothy mousse, lovely acidity and grip and a very long, complex and classy finish. This is terrific bubbly. (Drink between 2018-2045)John Gilman | 93 JGFresh and fruity while also rich and full in the mouth, this is a superbly balanced nonvintage selection. It is not quite dry with its apple and citrus fruits both given some softness. Disgorged in 2012, it already has two years bottle age that has rounded out the wine. Drink now.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEThis vibrant version shows a range of toasted brioche, baked cherry, crystalized honey, grated ginger and coconut flavors, remaining light-footed and lively throughout. Beautifully balanced, with a lasting, mouthwatering finish.Wine Spectator | 93 WSBased on the 2014 vintage, complemented by fully 40% old reserve wines, the new release of Charles Heidsieck's NV Brut Réserve was disgorged earlier this year. It's showing very well, opening up in the glass with notes of green apple, dried white flowers, pear, candied peel and walnuts. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with a textural attack and a racier, tighter-knit core than either the 2012- or 2010-base renditions, displaying good concentration and underlying richness. This is a bottling that continues to punch above its weight and which both merits and rewards a few years in the cellar before opening.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RPThis offers big house complexity in terms of toasty reductive warmth on the nose, as well as an array of grilled peach, praline and wild red berries. The palate has assertive flavorsome appeal, delivered in a well-crafted style. Fresh berries and stone fruits rule the finish. Drink now.James Suckling | 92 JS

This is a rosé of complexity and sophistication. It is essentially a finessed version of Special Cuvée and has all the brightness and nicely caught complexity of that Champagne with a layer of redder fruit aromas as well as a thread of raspberry and cherry on the palate; some blueberry too. Very long, even and thrilling on the finish.James Suckling | 93 JS