France Wines

wines

Mid crimson purple. The nose is quite discreet, though a mix of strawberry and raspberry fruit then starts to sing out on the palate, along with a little vanilla from the oak. 25% whole bunches adds a little bit of zest. Drink from 2027-2033. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 90-91 JMDerived, as its name suggests, from 10 lieux-dits dispersed around the appellation that together represent fully four hectares, the 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin 10 Climats is medium-bodied, pretty and giving, evocative of sweet berries, spices, petals and orange rind. It will offer a broad drinking window.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 88-90 RPRipe aromas of plum, dark cherry and a distinct earth character gives way to solidly concentrated and voluminous flavors that manage to be at once caressing and punchy, all wrapped in a youthfully austere and lingering finale where the only nit is a touch of warmth.Burghound | 88-91 BH

From east-facing vines on the border with Chassagne-Montrachet, planted on red clay soils. The 2022 is a wine with surprising lemony freshness and hints of greengage plum and tarragon. The texture displays a refreshing, lively acidity and mineral depth that carry the wine to a marvellous finish. The family farms almost 1ha here; grapes are picked ripe (but not overly so) and sorted carefully before a light crushing and fermentation in cask, where they age over two winters.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECThe 2022 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Charmois is showing very well, unwinding in the glass with notes of ripe citrus fruits, freshly baked bread, toasted nuts and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, it’s beautifully pure and ethereal, with bright acids and a saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPClear mid lemon. There is very little apparent on the nose at first. Some fruit, and even some summer flowers, begin to emerge. There is a freshness to this along with concentration. It remains quite discreet, backward, needing the rest of the elevage, but there is a mineral note to the final acidity which promises very well. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 90-93 JM

The 2022 Mâcon-Uchizy Les Maranches has a more austere bouquet demanding some coaxing from the glass. The palate is well-balanced with a saline entry and fine weight in the mouth. Not complex per se, yet it feels quite long and spicy on the finish. Fine.Vinous Media | 90 VM

The delicate nose of floral honey and acacia blossoms leads you into this elegant Meursault Charmes. Very focused and vibrant on the medium- to full-bodied palate, the fine tannins keeping this straight. If the firm finish was a bit more elegant, this would certainly rate higher. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.James Suckling | 93 JSMore subtle oak influence can be found on the cool, airy and exceptionally pretty aromas of citrus, white flower and Granny Smith apple. Once again there is a beguiling texture to the impressively rich and mineral driven medium-bodied flavors that coat the palate on the youthfully austere, firm and beautifully persistent finale. While this could reasonably be approached after only three to four years, it has an excellent track record for aging and is a wine that should repay up to a decade of keeping.Burghound | 92 BHNotes of freshly sliced citrus and mineral reduction combine with those of white flower and discreet spice nuances that are trimmed in discreet oak. There is a restrained energy to the caressing, intense and lilting middle weight flavors that possess good richness but also a lovely sense of refinement on the bitter lemon-infused finale. This is certainly pretty but it will need a few years of cellaring to better develop the overall depth.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMMid lemon yellow. This is rather more open on the nose, with an easy white fruit, no great detail as yet but showing more on the palate. Quite intense apples with some ripe citrus rind alongside, medium plus bodied, fair length. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 90-93 JM

A powerful and ripe Meursault with plenty of Mirabelle plums filling out the generous medium- to full-bodied palate. Attractive interplay of creaminess, fine tannins and freshness. Matured in small oak barrels, of which one third were new. Very limited production. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSThe 2022 Meursault Santenots 1er Cru has a complex nose: yellow fruit, spice box, touches of fennel and crushed stone, all coming through with aeration. The palate is very well-balanced with good weight - a lovely creamy texture whilst retaining tension. More open than other cuvées and persistent in the mouth, this is a well-crafted and delicious Meursault.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMAll from Les Santenots Blanc. A lime and lemon colour, some charm to the nose along with the energy. Rather a pretty expression of fruit, then a little more flesh behind, well integrated with the oak. A supple rounded Meursault with still a sense of refinement. Drink from 2027-2033. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JMThere is enough wood present to merit pointing out surrounding the ripe aromas of primarily pear compote and citrus confit. The sleek, intense and solidly voluminous flavors possess an interesting hint of sweetness on the lingering finish that could use a bit better depth. With that said, this is sufficiently tightly wound to repay 6 to as much as 10 years of cellaring which should prove beneficial.Burghound | 90 BH

Wonderful nose of flint and grilled baguette with a touch of acacia. So energetic and racy, this is a strong argument for the greatness of Saint-Aubin. Excellent concentration in spite of being only medium-bodied. Long, driving, mineral finish. Very limited production. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JS

Coming from the Les Murets lieu-dit and 100-year-old vines, with 20% from L’Ermite, the 2022 Ermitage Ex-Voto Blanc is a heavenly white offering quince, candle wax, crushed stone, and orange blossom-like aromatics. Based on 95% Marsanne and 5% Roussanne and aged 24 months in new French oak, it shows incredible depth and purity, with full-bodied richness and a focused, balanced style. This monumental Hermitage needs a year or two and should have decades of longevity. Hermitage Blanc doesn’t get any better! Drink 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDThe fabulous 2022 Ermitage Blanc Ex-Voto unwinds with vivid lemon flesh, yellow apple, white peach and honeysuckle. Flinty subtleties add a deliciously reductive touch. On the palate, the 2022 dazzles with remarkable depth and intensity, all backed by refreshing levels of bright acidity. What an awesome Ermitage Blanc Ex-Voto! Readers should note that no 2021 was produced.Vinous Media | 96 VMVery youthful, but the concentration, firm structure and vitality are already very impressive. This shows ample toast and vanilla-oak aromas plus pronounced oak tannins, but all of this is integrating beautifully. Stunning interplay of restrained creaminess and intense stony minerality in the long finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JS

Pure and airy aromas of mineral reduction, essence of pear, just sliced apple, acacia blossom and a whiff of spice are trimmed in admirably subtle wood. The lively and overtly stony medium weight flavors are sleek to the point of being almost glossy on the youthfully austere, compact and built-to-age finale. This is really quite classy.Burghound | 91 BH

The wide spectrum of citrus, crisp pear and stone fruit aromas announces a remarkable achievement for an entry-level wine. Excellent depth on the racy, medium-bodied palate where the chalky minerality beautifully counterpoints the cool fruit. Crisp, long finish with so much vitality. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold. Screw cap.James Suckling | 92 JSThe 2022 Riesling is from countless vineyards between Scherwiller in the north and the Vallé Noble in the south and mainly based on marl limestone soils. The nose is clear, fresh and intensely aromatic and even displays some Muscat and herbal/stony aromas, which makes it more than just Riesling. On the palate, this is a dry but round and textured, quite rich, intense and powerful yet certainly elegant, savory and stimulating Riesling with food-friendly grip, salts and tension on the crisp finish. 12.8% alcohol. Screw-cap closure. Tasted at the domaine in April 2024.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPTrimbach’s basic Riesling shows the producer’s long experience and know-how with the grape variety. After being handpicked, the grapes were vinified in stainless steel and bottled quickly under screwcap. The wine then aged for a year in bottle before release. It’s a classic expression, youthful and fresh but with a hit of petrol on the nose as the wine starts to mature and evolve. Aromatic with juicy and tangy lime zestiness, bone dry and very moreish. Very well priced too.Decanter Magazine | 91 DECThe 2022 Riesling is blended from the estate and bought fruit from across Alsace with a sizeable portion of Grand Cru vineyards, plus the fruit from young estate vines and Grands Cru fruit that was brought in, mostly from limestone soils, but with some sandstone and volcanic elements. A lovely crackle of flint blends with a touch of chamomile and radiant dried lemon notes, making for an aromatic nose. The palate is juicy, bouncing with energy, with a slight astringency as of citrus peel and pith that bundles this exuberance. The 2022 shows gorgeous tension, lovely dryness and oh so much energy. (Bone-Dry)Vinous Media | 90 VM

TOP VALUE Jessiaume is using the 2ha of domaine vines it recently recovered from a sharecropping contract to produce this lovely wine with aromatic raspberry fruit and a floral edge. Supple and approachable, with a pleasant sweetness to the fruit, structure and freshness. A noticeable step up from the other village-level bottlings. Organic.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECThis red Santenay has a crisp acidity, but there’s excellent concentration and finely nuanced red-fruit aromas that easily balance this. Cool and elegant on the medium-bodied palate, where the fine-grained tannins, fruit and freshness neatly interlock. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSThe 2022 Santenay La Cassière has a pleasant bouquet with wild strawberry and raspberry fruit and some judicious and prudent use of new oak (20%). The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit, more harmonious, and unlike the Vieilles Vignes, the finish has more substance. Drink over 4-6 years.Vinous Media | 89-91 VMFrom a plot below La Maladière, recovered by the domaine in 2021. An attractive lighter purple colour. This is an elegant style of Santenay. Quite nuanced, pleasing light red fruits, enough acidity and good length. Very far from rustic! Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 87-90 JM

Bize owns 2.1 hectares here, including a half-hectare of Chardonnay. The red has an explosive blackberry and wild strawberry fruit aroma with hints of fresh and dried flowers, earth, and cigar leaf. The texture is tannic and firm but less tightly-wound than the 2020s. Fermentation is done as whole clusters; the wine is aged in cask, with just 5 – 10% new. When finished, this delicious wine should be approachable earlier than some vintages have been.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2022 Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Vergelesses 1er Cru has a complex and perhaps cerebral nose: dark berry fruit, black pepper, green tea and light scents of damp moss/forest floor. This unfurls beautifully in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins framing gorgeous dark berry fruit, a little peppery in style, quintessentially Savigny with a very persistent finish. Everything you want from a Savigny Premier Cru (and more).Vinous Media | 93-95 VMHalf in a foudre, half in a barrel. Pale colour with a faint green streak. The reduction is keeping the wine tense, while the fruit on the palate is immediately engaging. Ripe limes, fresh apple, a certain sensuality behind, and an excellent long finish. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JMCool, fresh and bright aromas of red currant, cherry, warm earth and a hint of spice are trimmed in a plethora of floral elements. The rich, velvety and solidly voluminous flavors possess the best concentration in the range while displaying focused power on the firm, serious, moderately austere and very much built to age finale. This is a buy and forget it wine for at least 7 to 8 years.Burghound | 90-93 BH

A total of one hectare is planted in Fournaux. The vines from the top of the slope in stony soils are blended with those from the deeper clay at the base. All the grapes are fermented as whole clusters and are ageing in mainly used casks to create this wine with a bright mulberry and pomegranate fruit aroma underpinned by saline minerality and a hint of savoury game. The texture is firm with grippy tannins and good length.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECThe 2022 Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Fournaux 1er Cru is more closed on the nose compared to the Grands Liards, yet it is still well-defined with black plum and bilberry fruit, intermingling with sous-bois and a touch of crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. It’s an elegant Savigny, not powerful, but armed with reassuring persistence on the white pepper-tinged finish. Lovely.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMAn even fresh purple. At first there is not much nose but a little fresh raspberry fruit begins to emerge. The Fournaux 2022 delivers a rounded raspberry and strawberry fruit across the palate with sterner tannins at the finish, and still a good acid balance. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 90-92 JMMore somber, even brooding, aromas of various dark berries, warm earth and a touch of the sauvage enjoy a floral top note. There is notably better punch, though not better density, to the powerful and serious medium-bodied flavors that coat the palate with firm tannins on the built-to-age finale.Burghound | 89-91 BH

Pale colour. The bouquet shows a bit of white fruit but is quiet. Quite intense on the palate, more tightly wound, almost a tannic touch. Patrick says not atypical here, along with their hard pressing. Interesting complexity with length. Drink from 2027-2033. Tasted: October 2023.Jasper Morris | 92 JMA rich style, this white offers yellow plum, melon and fresh herb flavors, with an underlying mineral note. Shows fine balance and length, ending with a tangy, mouthwatering feel. Drink now through 2028. 300 cases made, 47 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WSThe 2022 Chablis Fôrets 1er Cru has a more backward bouquet with touches of greengage and white flowers, later a hint of wild mint. The palate is well-balanced with a sapid entry and fine depth and acidity. It is quite strict towards the finish with a saline aftertaste. Good potential, but this will need time.Vinous Media | 90+ VMProminent smoky reduction notes dominate the nose today. More interesting are the sleek and relatively refined middleweight flavors that possess an equally lovely texture if not the same depth on the otherwise similarly long finale. Note that this should drink well on the younger side if desired.Burghound | 90 BH

An even more floral and cooler nose grudgingly reflects notes of mineral reduction, iodine and oyster shell. The ultra-sleek, vibrant and beautifully textured medium weight flavors retain excellent delineation while exhibiting outstanding length on the bone-dry, youthfully austere and sneaky long finale. Like several wines in the range, more depth would be advantageous but this is already exceptionally pretty.Burghound | 93 BHPale in colour. The bouquet is discreet at first, almost austere, but then develops some honeysuckle. Excellent tension, sun on the stones, ripe yellow fruit, very good acidity. Totally authentic Montée de Tonnerre. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted: October 2023.Jasper Morris | 92 JM

The 2022 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru has a lovely nose that is a mixture of white and yellow flowers, wet stone and hints of chalk. The palate is very well-balanced with a slightly tangy entry, fresh and saline, with plenty of substance on the finish. There is a real panache here.Vinous Media | 93 VMThis comes from the entry to the valley where there is very little topsoil. Patrick explains the relative austerity of this wine by the proximity of the mother rock. Very pure Chablis approach here, all in white fruit, with good grip behind. Plenty to work with here, needs time. Drink from 2027-2034. Tasted: October 2023.Jasper Morris | 92 JMThe 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains is a pretty, perfumed wine, bursting with aromas of peach, orange zest and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and charming, with a bright but generous core of fruit, it will make for appealing drinking out of the gates.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPHere too smoky reduction is all that can be discerned on the nose. By contrast, and as one would reasonably expect, there is a finer texture to the lightly stony if less powerful flavors that also offer reasonable length of limited depth.Burghound | 90 BH

Aromas of pear, honeycomb and dried white flowers introduce Piuze’s 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons Les Minots, a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and charming wine that’s seamless and enveloping, offering considerable early appeal.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2022 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru Les Minots has a lovely bouquet with orange blossom, Golden Delicious and light saffron aromas. The palate is well-balanced with a slightly honeyed opening, a little more exotic in style, yet it retains the essence of Chablis. There’s a very slight reduction that plays to its advantage on the finish. Highly recommended.Vinous Media | 92 VMMinots or Mélinots is the hottest part at the end of the valley. Mid lemon yellow. There is a clear pure ripe apple fruit, a slight marine note alongside, fresh and vigorous. A wealth of white fruit through the middle, with plenty of energy behind, and a very long finish. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted: October 2023.Jasper Morris | 92 JMMinots is another spelling for the climat Mélinots which was originally known as Les Minos; it is generally considered to be the warmest of all of the climats within Vaillons yet curiously the wines always seem to retain good acidityBurghound | 91 BHGreen plum, Honeydew melon, peach and vanilla flavors pick up a hint of the sea in this round, open, balanced white, which ends with a moderately long finish. Drink now through 2028. 330 cases made, 83 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Elegant and ripe yet cool aromas include those of a blend of white orchard fruit, spice, citrus confit and a hint of seaweed character. The utterly delicious bigger-bodied flavors brim with sappy dry extract that adds a sense of power to the sappy and palate coating finish that offers notably better depth and persistence. The Butteaux is quite good but the Vaulorent is at another level.Burghound | 93 BHMid lemon yellow. The nose shows evidence of the yellow fruit style of the right bank. Indeed, a very classy bouquet, while the fruit builds in volume on the palate, offering generosity without sucrosity, very digestible, excellent length of aftertaste and fine typicity. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted: October 2023.Jasper Morris | 93 JMThe 2022 Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru has a clean and precise bouquet with touches of nutmeg, desiccated orange peel, and chalky notes. The palate is very well-balanced with a sapid entry, quite powerful, with impressive density on the finish. Bit of a powerhouse, but a delicious powerhouse.Vinous Media | 92 VMAromas of pear, freshly baked bread, iodine and hazelnuts preface the 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent, a medium to full-bodied, ample and layered wine that’s richer and more unctuous than normal, reflecting the warmth of the vintage. If it tightens up with some time in bottle, it will make my score look conservative.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPGreen plum, Honeydew melon, peach and vanilla flavors pick up a hint of the sea in this round, open, balanced white, which ends with a moderately long finish. Drink now through 2028. 330 cases made, 83 cases imported.Wines Spectator | 90 WS

In 2022, the Chambolle Baudes was my favourite of Lignier’s several holdings in the village. The wine displays an expressive red and black fruit aroma, with notes of Asian spice and peonies, yet there is also a savoury, earthy side to the aroma. The texture is supple and not at all heavy. Ideally, one would wait five years to open this and then drink it over the next twenty or more that follow since it has the substance to age well.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThere is one new barrel out of the four. Mid purple, much more energy, and density behind. A lower pH compared to Chabiots is what drives this. An explosion of red berry fruit on the palate, with a crisp clean long finish, very complete. Drink from 2032-2038. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-95 JMThe 2022 Chambolle-Musigny Les Baudes 1er Cru has a very floral bouquet like the Chabiots…more intense perhaps, a touch more mineralité. Very well-defined. The palate is svelte and velvety smooth in texture, with vivacious redcurrant, strawberry notes, blood orange, and a touch of fresh fig towards the caressing finish. This will be very seductive.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMThe 2022 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Baudes is one of the highlights of the range, offering up aromas of ripe cherries, red berries, orange zest and Indian spices. Medium to full-bodied, supple and layered, it’s deep and concentrated, with a style that reflects its proximity to Bonnes-Mares.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPHere the ripe, spice and floral-suffused aromas display notes of violet, rose petal, anise and both red and dark pinot fruit. There is equally good size, weight and power to the slightly more muscular flavors that deliver excellent length on the balanced and slightly more structured finale. The Lignier Baudes always ages extremely well and the 2022 version should be no exception.Burghound | 91-93 BH

Aromas of peonies, mint and sweet red berries introduce the 2022 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Chabiots (négoce), a medium to full-bodied, supple and perfumed wine with melting tannins and a saline, rose-inflected finish. This delicate, ethereal red will offer a broad drinking window.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RPThe 2022 Chambolle-Musigny Chabiots 1er Cru comes from purchased fruit, 25% whole bunches, and comprises three barrels. This is nicely focused with rose petals, red cherry, and crushed strawberry on the nose. The medium-bodied palate is floral in style with pliant tannins, quite lush red fruit, and a smooth, sensual finish. Très Chambolle, this should be drinking after four or five years.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM3 barrels, one new, from purchased grapes. A pink crimson colour, flowery, soft strawberries, a little peppery behind, minor tannins. Agreeable yet lacking the density of the Nuits Poisets. Fair length though. Drink from 2030-2035. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 90-93 JMA much spicier and more elegant nose freely offers up its aromas of fresh red cherry, plum and pretty array of floral elements. The delicious, vibrant and moderately muscular medium-bodied flavors exude evident minerality on the dusty, firm and youthfully austere finale. This could use better depth but I like the balance, which should allow it to age gracefully over a decade plus.Burghound | 89-92 BH

Mid purple in colour with a sensual nose, and a touch of white pepper. A dark red fruit on the palate, dark strawberry, with fair length behind. A pleasing rendition of friendly Charmes-Chambertin. Drink from 2030-2039. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-95 JMModerate reduction blocks an evaluation of the nose. The succulent bigger-bodied flavors possess better concentration but not nearly the refinement and while there is good persistence, the dusty finish is a bit chewy and rustic.Burghound | 90-93 BHThe 2022 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a well-defined bouquet, opening with black cherries, wild strawberries, and crushed stone. There is real vibrancy here. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly rustic opening. It’s a solid Charmes-Chambertin with good depth but lacks some precision on the finish. A slipped catch from an otherwise strong line-up?Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

This wine is the star of the Lignier cellar and among the best in Morey, with its currant and mulberry fruit and hints of savoury, gamey depth. The wine is more muscular, structured, and dense than the ’classic’ Clos de la Roche, yet there is enough elegance to ensure that this wine is in a class of its own. The grapes come from 27 ares planted in Monts Luisants by Lignier’s grandparents in 1955. One-third of the grapes were gently fermented as whole clusters over 18 days, and the wine is ageing now in a cask (one-third new).Decanter Magazine | 98 DECThe 2022 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with aromas of smoky plums and berries mingled with notions of cinnamon, raw cocoa, game bird and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, rich and layered, with supple, powdery tannins cloaked by a sweet core of fruit, it concludes with a broad but saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPHere too the nose is sufficiently reduced as to mask the fruit. On the palate though there is both good verve and freshness to the highly seductive and rich larger-scaled flavors that brim with sappy dry extract and evident minerality on the balanced, firm and lingering finale that exhibits focused power. This is really quite impressive and a wine that should amply repay extended keeping.Burghound | 92-95 BH