France Wines

wines

This delicious wine is perennially among the most concentrated and nuanced in Lignier’s cellar—just don’t refer to it as ‘the blended premier cru’. He is at pains to point out that the rows start out in Faconnières and end up in Cheneverey, but that it is one single parcel. The wine boasts aromas of ripe plums with notes of violets, pepper, and a hint of dark chocolate. The texture is dense and rich but without any heaviness. The grapes are from 0.66 hectares of vines. The oldest were planted in 1936, and the youngest in 1962.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2023 Morey-Saint-Denis Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru comes from the usual three lieux-dits. It has an intense bouquet with cool but focused blackberry, briar and light flinty scents. The palate is medium-bodied and very well balanced, with finely sculpted tannins and seductive creaminess to the texture in the finish. Frequently one of Laurent Lignier’s finest cuvées, this is just wonderful.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMMostly Faconnières. Rich dark crimson with the most fruit to date, fully ripe. The palate offers a balanced headiness, with a fruit dark enough to include some plums. This is the more hedonistic of the two but I think my preference comes down narrowly on the more cerebral Chaffots. Drink from 2032-2038. Tasted Dec 2024.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JMA restrained but beautifully layered nose grudgingly offers up its aromas of black cherry, crushed anise and newly turned earth. There is slightly better density to the overtly powerful and more obviously mineral-driven medium-bodied flavors that culminate in a firm, serious and compact finale. This too virtually always ages well and the 2023 version should be no exception.Burghound | 91-94 BH

The Très Girard is spot-on typical Morey, with a bit more tannin and grip and less sweet fruit than some of the other offerings in the cellar. Since he doesn’t have a lot of village-level vines, he has purchased fruit from this site in the heavier soils at the base of the slope for many years. One-third of the grapes are fermented as whole clusters, and the wine is ageing in cask (20% new). This should open in three to five years and drink well for 10 years or more afterwards.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECPurchased in grapes since 2009. A full ruby crimson. Rich bright fruit on the nose, a wealth of dark cherry and raspberry on the palate, even if a little bit firm in tannins at the finish. They will settle down. Drink from 2029-2034. Tasted Dec 2024.Jasper Morris | 90-92 JMThe 2023 Morey-Saint-Denis Très Girard is blended with 30% whole cluster. It offers dark berry fruit mixed with brown spices and nicely integrated 50% new oak. The palate is fresh and very harmonious on the entry with finely chiseled tannins and a tensile, precise finish. Very fine.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

I think of Lignier’s ‘Trilogie’ as a village++. The grape blend is nearly two-thirds from the village-level part of Chenevery, planted in the 1960s, withi a bit of fruit from old cordon-trained vines in the clay-rich soils of Clos Solon, and a bit more of Les Porroux (30%), the total amounts to a hectare of old vines, low-yielding due to age, even in 2023. The ripe plum and currant fruit aromas are accented by hints of smoke and spice and a suggestion of black tea. The texture has lovely depth and richness, and should drink well for 20 years at least.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECA blend of Chenevery, Clos Solon and Les Porroux. Mid ruby in colour. The fruit is sufficiently ripe to cover the structure without turning into lush dark fruit., More of a sweet red cherry. Excellent intensity, this is a cut above Très Girard both in class and intensity. Tannins are present, but subdued beneath the fruit. Drink from 2030-2036. Tasted Dec 2024.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JMThe 2023 Morey-Saint-Denis Trilogie comes from three parcels (as you would expect). This has a perfumed, floral bouquet with touches of peony infusing the dark berry fruit and hints of bay leaf coming through with time. The palate is very well balanced with a sorbet-fresh entry and lively blood orange infusing the dark cherry and cassis fruit on the crunchy finish. This is what you might describe as a "solid" Morey-Saint-Denis without the flair or chutzpah of the Vieilles Vignes.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

The Pommard En Brescu from Domaine Hubert Lignier is high-toned with red berry-fruit aromas and a floral edge. It’s light bodied with fresh acidity and firm tannins. The grapes are from 0.40ha that Lignier purchased in 2014, planted on terraces high on the slope overlooking the Clos des Mouches. The grapes are partially destemmed and fermented with native yeasts before ageing in cask (20% new).Decanter Magazine | 93 DECVines in terraces, planted 1997, vines purchased 2014. A lighter crimson ruby colour. Some firm red berry fruit on the nose. Plenty of energy on the palate, actually fills the mouth despite this being a cool, hillside site. A fine long dark red fruit finish, covering the tannins. Drink from 2030-2035. Tasted Dec 2024.Jasper Morris | 89-92 JMDeep ruby color. A distinctly earthy yet cool and airy nose of both red and dark currant introduces caressing, delicious and seductively textured medium weight flavors that also conclude in a dusty, youthfully austere and firm but not grippy finish.Burghound | 87-90 BH

The 2023 Volnay Village comes from two lieux-dits. It has a lively, punchy bouquet with blackcurrant and raspberry scents and great vigor. The palate is smooth and sensual, with touches of dark chocolate and pain d’épices infusing the red berry fruit with a caressing and quite persistent finish. This is very fine.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

Lignier’s new cuvée in Morey is the premier cru Les Sorbès. The wine boasts a ripe blackberry fruit with an almost gamey savoury note and hints of mineral and spice. Although the flavour is substantial, the texture is pleasantly ethereal, almost like a wine from Chambolle. This is the first vintage of this wine; Lignier sourced enough fruit for four barrels from the site located down the slope below the Clos de Tart and the village.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECSlightly fuller crimson colour with a floral nose, a touch of peony. All destemmed as it is the first year of this contract. More sweet cherry fruity intensity on the palate, a little gentian at the finish, an interesting, complex wine. The fruit has more sucrosity than some. Drink from 2030-2037. Tasted Dec 2024.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMHere too there is a hint of herbal tea on the softly wooded nose of earthy red currant aromas. The seductive, round and utterly delicious middle weight flavors are shaped by relatively fine-grained tannins on the youthfully austere and lingering finale where the only reproach is a touch of warmth. This is a wine of finesse but with sufficient stuffing to repay up to a decade of aging.Burghound | 90-93 BHThe 2023 Morey-Saint-Denis Les Sorbés comes from a purchase of fruit that represents four barrels this year. This has a vibrant floral bouquet with lovely delineation and lift, as rose petal and bergamot infuse the raspberry fruit. The palate is well balanced with supple tannins and a caressing finish, a little fleshy and perhaps Chambolle-like. This will drink well in its youth.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM