Rare Italians

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A bright red color, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino was bottled in March of 2024 and will be released in March of 2025. The aromas are layered and complex with notes of red berries, cranberries, rosemary, orange peel, and black licorice that are constantly evolving in the glass as it opens. Medium-bodied and structured, but also elegant with a weightless feel, it has a long and savory finish. It feels as though it’s going to gain in intensity with more time in bottle. Drink 2027-2050.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDThe radiant Biondi Santi 2019 Brunello is a classic offering from the estate and follows the focus on elegance, energy and restraint that Franco Biondi Santi and his father and before him were both known for. It opens with enticing scents of violet, dog rose, wild berry and dark culinary spice that on the vibrant, focused palate segue into red cherry, pomegranate, licorice and black tea. Taut, refined tannins provide support while racy acidity keeps it balanced and lends tension. It’s still youthfully austere and shows great aging potential. Drink 2031–2044. Abv: 13.5%Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOThis wine will be released in March 2025. The Biondi-Santi 2019 Brunello di Montalcino was born in a generous vintage that provided abundant high-quality fruit. The growing season became progressively warmer throughout summer, without heat spikes, and it ended with well-timed rains and a warm autumn. Harvest started in mid-September, and the grapes ripened according to the right parameters without over-ripeness. The wine shows a natural textural richness that is supported by dark fruit, navel orange, tobacco, laurel leaf and Mediterranean herb. There are flinty mineral notes that add to the complexity. This beautiful wine hits a special mark: it offers the ethereal qualities you expect of this celebrated estate, with a good level of austerity to match.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino pulls the taster close to the glass, darkly floral and balsamic at the first tilt. This blossoms with a textbook profile of worn leather, dried rose, dusty earth, spice and dried black cherry. It sweeps across the palate, silky-smooth with hints of ripe red and black fruit underscored by saline mineral tones that add a crunchy yet salty sensation toward the close. It finishes with tremendous length and concentration, lifted by a tinge of sour citrus. Fine-grained tannins resonate under an air of sweet lavender. The 2019 is classic to the core. With this level of depth coming from the anatta, one can only imagine what the riserva will reveal.Vinous Media | 97 VMSurely one of the wines of the vintage, Biondi-Santi 2019 is balletic and dynamic, opening with a waft of balsamic herbs suffused with tobacco, black tea and blood orange. Bright, confident acidity underlines stony mid-palate sapidity and shy glimpses of gorgeous black cherry and blood orange. Vertically built with very fine, cashmere tannins, the balance and energy is nothing short of majestic. An interesting fact as stated by winemaker Federico Radi: in its long history, Biondi-Santi has only made wines over 14% abv four times.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECVery perfumed and fragrant with sweet berries and fresh roses that follow through to a medium body with pretty depth of fruit and balance. Racy and driven, there’s a lot going on in the center-palate. The legend lives. Give this a few years to open, but already impressive. Best after 2027.James Suckling | 97 JSThis red feels open and juicy at first, with a vein of cherry, strawberry and floral flavors, before the firm edge of stiff tannins emerges. The underlying mineral element takes a little time to reveal itself but then defines the extended aftertaste. Best from 2028 through 2048.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

For lovers of this estate, you’re going to want to stop everything and go find the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Madonna Delle Grazie if you have the means. There’s simply nothing else like it, and it needs to be experienced. It pours a saturated, youthful ruby color and has an unmistakable and distinctive nose that is highly expressive, with layered aromas jumping from the glass and unfolding notes of cassis, wildflowers, orange marmalade, clove, and blackberries. (Words do this no justice.) Equally potent and layered on the palate, it continues seamlessly, with noble structure and profound concentration through a stunning and long finish that lasts for several minutes (or as long as I could give it until moving on). Remarkable and singular, it truly stands apart from the crowd, even in this phenomenal vintage, where it’s hard to do much wrong. Profound. It’s a showstopper now and will be one of the great wines of the region for decades. Drink 2028-2050.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDThis is a racy wine with deep layers, infinite complexity and a wild, almost mischievous personality. I have noticed that other Brunellos imitate this style, but none come close to the one and only. The Il Marroneto 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle Grazie exudes immediate aromas that are vibrant, elegant and full of energy. This is a wine of light and power, and I am reminded of Spain’s Comando G, especially considering its uniquely punchy quality. Sweet cranberry, coriander seed, cola, licorice and white pepper emerge with purpose. There is a hint of sweetness that feels like summer singing from the glass. The mouthfeel is very much alive with terrific freshness and fine, dusty tannins that coat the entire mouth.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 99 RPThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle Grazie tempts the imagination with a dark veil of exotic florals and spices that slowly lifts to reveal dried blackberries and cherries enlivened by hints of mint and a dusting of clove. This soothes with its silken textures and ripe red berry fruits as a blend of saline minerals and fine tannins slowly collect toward the close. Structured yet incredibly long and deep, it tapers off like a black hole, inward and youthfully tense, blending sweet tannins with steeped plums and balsam herbs. The 2019 is one of the most energetic yet complex renditions of Madonna delle Grazie I have yet tasted. I could get lost for days in this wine.Vinous Media | 99 VMThose familiar with Il Marroneto will notice that with the 2019 vintage, the name of the estate is now at the fore on all labels. This echoes proprietor Alessandro Mori’s conviction that the estate possesses greater significance than the denomination. Like the estate Brunello, this single-vineyard bottling is a study in what is enough. Without relying on any embellishments, it’s a gorgeous expression of a very specific place. Heady yet youthful in aromas, an evocative whiff of roasted chestnut makes way for lavender, camomile, evergreen and mint. Dark cherry washes over the palate leaving stony, mineral undertones in its wake. Sturdy tannins are expertly chiselled, giving a confident frame. Perfectly pitched acidity serves to resonate perfumes, while giving a purposeful stride and enduring length.Decanter | 99 DECFragrant and refined, the gorgeous 2019 Madonna delle Grazie offers enticing aromas of rose, sun-warmed hay, forest floor, Mediterranean scrub and wild berry. Vibrant and loaded with energy and finesse, the palate shows succulent Morello cherry, wild strawberry, orange, star anise and crushed mint alongside firm, refined tannins and bright acidity. Drink 2029–2044. Abv: 14%Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOThe 2019 vintage of Madonna delle Grazie shares the same superb young quality as the Normale bottling of Brunello in this year. Out of the blocks, this strikes me as one of the finest young Brunellos I have had the pleasure to taste, as it offers up a pure, complex and vibrant bouquet of red and black cherries, Tuscan herb tones, gamebird, a touch of coffee bean, a gorgeous base of soil, cigar wrapper, woodsmoke and a whisper of cedar. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very refined and elegant in profile, with lovely transparency down to its soil, a superb core of fruit, fine-grained tannins and impeccable focus on the long and seamlessly balanced, complex finish. This will be a legendary bottling of Brunello in due course, but will deserve plenty of hibernation time in the cellar to properly soften up its tannins and allow it to reach its apogee. (Drink between 2037 - 2085)John Gilman | 95+ JG

This wine kisses the sky with fruit from bush-trained vines planted in 2012 at the highest point of the appellation (above 600 meters in elevation). This is a wine to watch in the future, especially as these vines grow older. The Le Ragnaie 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Passo del Lume Spento has a fine and direct bouquet with vibrant red fruit, cranberry, pressed rose and rosemary blossom. Fruit and floral components run very strong, and you don’t get as much of the earthiness that we find in the other wines. Instead, it feels mineral and salty. Crunchy fruit and powdery tannins fuel a very long and polished finish with a contained 13.5% alcohol content. This wine is fluid and more of a shape-shifter. Only 4,400 bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPTo close out the single vineyard wines, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Passo Del Lume Spento takes a youthful red/garnet-tinged color and, as with the rest of the wines of this vintage from Le Ragnaie, has a signature stamp of incredible perfume lifting from the glass out of the gate, with notes fresh Mediterranean herbs, ripe cherries, anise, and crushed rose petals. Ripe citrus-toned fruit fills the palate of this medium-bodied Brunello, which has great mouthwatering acidity that floats through the sides of the palate, angular tannins, and a mineral-toned finish. It’s packed with tension, though, and is deserving of another year or two of cellaring before drinking 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Passo del Lume Spento opens with a mentholated freshness, as crushed stone and minty herbs complicate dusty dried strawberries. This is juicy in character and wickedly fresh, showing its minerality up front as a tart wave of wild berries descends upon the palate. It finishes with cheek-puckering tension, potent and primary, along with a coating of fine-grained tannins, all balanced by a bump of residual acidity. This is a spice bomb, yet it has the energy to balance. The Passo del Lume Spento hails from bush-trained vines planted in 2012 at 621 meters.Vinous Media | 94 VMCampinoti’s highest altitude single-vineyard bottling comes from a one-hectare plot planted in 2011 at a lofty 621 metres. The third release as a Brunello, it hits its stride with the 2019 vintage. While still reserved in aromas, this sings with inner mouth perfumes of white blossom and rose against a backdrop of sour red cherry and pomegranate. The mouth-cleansing tannins are linear, and brisk acidity whisks the wine across the palate. Slender but not bony, this has sufficient flesh to harmonise the structure. Really quite thrilling in its sinewy, chiselled personality.Decanter | 94 DEC

The character of this wine is more accessible and open-knit. The Le Ragnaie 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Petroso is less ethereal but more grounded, with an obvious delivery of fruit (and more primary intensity) framed by caramel, light tobacco leaf, redcurrant, cherry and wild plum. An herbal element comes forward too with white pepper and something fun that recalls cashew celery root. The mouthfeel veers toward chalky, and there is a hint of minerality with wet limestone or rose quartz. It shows managed tannins over mid-weight texture for a very elegant finish. These qualities give this 3,000-bottle release reasonable runway to age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe fourth vintage for this single vineyard, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Petroso takes a medium red color and has a gorgeous aromatic profile in its perfume of jasmine, dried cranberries, tangerine, and thyme. Displaying a Burgundian aesthetic, this medium-bodied Brunello has refined tannins, even, fresh acidity, and a delicate stony texture. It’s a beautiful wine that gently floats off the palate. With a wide drinking window, this is going to be one that’s hard to hold onto, but it will be worth cellaring. Drink 2024-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Petroso boasts a dark, rich, inviting blend of black raspberries, mint leaves and worn leather. Silky-smooth and elegant in feel, this easily flows across the palate, showcasing crisp red berry fruit enlivened by vibrant acidity. A wall of grippy tannins lingers as the 2019 tapers off primary and intense, promising many years of further development. I expect the Petroso to put on weight over time, which will complete this otherwise gorgeous wine. The potential here is incredibly high.Vinous Media | 95 VMFrom a 1 hectare, northwest facing plot, Petroso sits just below the Pietroso and Il Palazzone estates at an altitude of 500 metres. Surrounded by forests, it is a relatively cool site that was originally bottled as a cru Rosso. Compared to the cask sample I tried in 2022, the 2019 has shut down since bottling. The nose does show smoke, flint and pepper while the palate has just a suggestion of wild strawberry. With seemingly more structure than flesh at this point, tannins come across as slightly terse and austere. Another year or two in bottle will give a better indication of how it is resolving.Decanter | 92 DEC

The Pieve Santa Restituta 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille reveals a finely chiseled quality, with direct and lifted fruit, that gives this wine an angular or delineated personality. This impression is reinforced by delicate mineral notes of crushed stone that fold into dark fruit, sweet plum, black cherry and earthy iris root. The wine is elegant, but it also shows lots of umami or textural deliciousness thanks to the natural ripeness and concentration of the fruit. Give this wine more time in bottle.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPExtremely perfumed and intense with lilacs, violets, purple fruits and black cherries. Full-bodied and very structured with punchy tannins that give this great length and intensity. This is a great one for the cellar. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille is dark and youthfully inward, forcing the taster to work with its brooding blend of blackberries, sage and crushed stone. This displays textures of pure silk, polished and refined, with a dense textural wave of tart red and black fruits underscored by saline minerals and exotic spice. Orange notes add contrast through the close as this finishes tannic and long, with a pleasantly chewy sensation and angular tannins that pinch the cheeks. The 2019 is a dark stallion of a Brunello, all muscle and meat, that will take many years of cellaring to show its best. That said, it will be worth the wait.Vinous Media | 96 VMBalsamic aromas of camphor mingle with new leather, cedar, blue flower and underbrush on the brooding 2019 Sugarille. Showing more structure than the Rennina but still endowed with the firm’s hallmark of elegance, it delivers ripe black cherry, blood orange licorice and tobacco framed in tightly-woven, close grained tannins that give it a velvety texture. Drink 2039–2044. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOTo complete Angelo Gaja’s comparison with his Langhe wines, he likens Sugarille to Barolo (as opposed to the Rennina, which he equates with Barbaresco). Powerfully constructed, this will appeal to drinkers seeking a vigorous style of Brunello. Sweet oak spice and plum take on earthy forest undertones. It’s ample and expansive in fruit, yet austere and tight in structure: dark cherry and plum hang off steely, vertical grape tannins. Thicker wood tannins build through the core but crisp acidity offsets the dense structure, and medicinal herbs are tucked into its layers. This becomes increasingly firmer as it sits in the glass, and will need a whole lot of time.Decanter | 95 DEC