Rare Italians

wines

The nose is so pure and subtle with a sophistication and ethereal notion to it. It just makes you sit back and ponder the world. Like sitting in a pasture of mountains. Medium to full body with ultra-fine tannins that are endless and glorious in every sense. It’s like being connected to a unique piece of the earth when you taste this. Just-ripe berries with dried flowers, shell fish shell, and subtle mushroom and bark. Lasts so long on the palate. Endless. Drinkable because it is perfectly balanced, but it will be better in three to six years and beyond.James Suckling | 100 JSPossibly immortal, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Montosoli evolves slowly in the glass, at first dark and dusty with dried violets, cedar and clove. Patience rewards the taster as complex hints of spiced oranges emerge, followed by suggestions of lavender, chalk dust and wild strawberries. This floods the palate with textures of pure silk, weighty yet energetic, with a dense wave of tart wild berry fruits underscored by salty mineral tones and licorice. A core of brisk acidity maintains harmony throughout as a bitter tinge of boysenberry and cocoa settles in, framed by youthfully gripping tannins. The 2019 Vigna Montosoli is an unbridled beast in need of taming. This is an epic wine in the making.Vinous Media | 97 VMThere’s intensity to this red, along with breadth and depth, showing cherry, raspberry, iron, eucalyptus and tobacco aromas and flavors that are expressive, allied to a supple texture and refined structure. This finds an equilibrium between elegance and power, with a persistent aftertaste of fresh red fruit. Best from 2026 through 2042. 1,000 cases made, 250 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSAfter selling its significant holdings on the hill of Montosoli in the early 1970s, the Abbruzzese family was able to buy back 1.3 hectares in 2008. And, in 2015, after first seeking the blessing of Elizabeth Gnudi out of respect for Altesino’s historic Montosoli bottling, Valdicava came out with its cru bottling. Just the third release, the 2019 demonstrates intense ruby depths with a virile personality to match. Scents of oily herbs, iron, incense and game are penetrating, and mineral nuances repeat on the palate where bitter chocolate tones lie in wait. Full, velvety dark-skinned fruit is cinched in by crisp, vertical tannins and pierced by energetic acidity. As voluble as this is now, its structure demands time.Decanter | 97 DEC

The 2019 Barolo Pira is powerful and deep, but also very closed. There’s so much energy here, but readers will have to be patient, as this classically austere young Barolo clearly needs time. Hints of pine, menthol, licorice and dried herbs appear with some reluctance. I would not dream of touching a bottle anytime soon. Superb.Vinous Media | 97 VMA distinctive white pepper aroma leads off, followed by flavors of strawberry, sour cherry, mint, menthol and iron. Despite the lightness and ethereal quality, the texture reveals viscosity and intensity. Balanced and complex, ending with terrific length. Best from 2027 through 2045. 886 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WS

Deep, complex and graceful, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino entices with a cascade of blue and purple flowers, black cherries and hints of Tuscan spice. This is a radiant effort, with a tinge of tangerine up front that gives way to ripe red and black fruits propelled by tantalizing acidity. The 2019 tapers off long and staining, leaving a coating of fine tannins to flex their structural muscle as traces of black raspberry fade slowly. This is a soulful Brunello from start to finish. Beautifully done.Vinous Media | 95 VM

Brooding and balsamic, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli is a dark stallion of a wine with a bouquet to meditate to, wafting up exotic spices, flint, incense, dried roses, black cherries and hints of ashen stone. It’s racy yet complex and sensual, with silken textures and masses of mineral-inflected red berry fruits, all guided by a core of zesty acidity as a tinge of sour citrus adds tension throughout. Pleasantly chewy yet still mouthwatering, the 2019 leaves a web of fine tannins, along with a hint of orange zest and cloves to linger on and on and on. This is drop-dead gorgeous.Vinous Media | 98 VMThe estate’s prize plot, Vigna Paganelli was planted in 1964. Fabrizio Bindocci says that while it performs well even in the most challenging vintages, it is only bottled separately in the best years. The rejected fruit of three subsequent selections is completely discarded, rather than used for another wine. Gorgeously perfumed but properly restrained, the 2019 doles out nutmeg, cinnamon, black tea and incense on a persistent backdrop of dried cherry and black plum. Dense and sizeable but deftly balanced in its proportions, it remains effortlessly afloat as it expands assuredly across the palate. Soft, grainy tannins leave the mouth cleansed, yet this needs time, gratifyingly, for all its intricacies to be revealed.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECThe 2019 Vigna Paganelli Riserva is perfumed with gorgeous notes of fresh fallen leaves, incense, rose petal, and currants. The palate has energy and drive, with lithe tannins, fresh just-ripe berries, rosemary, and white pepper. There is a spherical shape to the finish, which is deliciously long. Vigna Paganelli was dry-farmed in this vintage.The Wine Independent | 97 TWIA mix of fruity and savory, this red offers a distinctive ray of graphite, along with cherry, strawberry, juniper, tomato leaf, earth and sanguine flavors. There’s good grip on the finish, but the tannins are softer and broader, more chalky than piercing. Shows fine balance and length, needing a little more time to knit together. Best from 2028 through 2046. 3,300 cases made, 1,500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThe Il Poggione 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli (with 40,000 bottles produced) sees a prolonged 48 months in oak botti with an additional 12 months in bottle. Fruit comes exclusively from a 12-hectare vineyard that was originally planted in 1964. We haven’t seen this Riserva since the 2016 vintage. It starts off with broad richness, and the bouquet fires on all cylinders. It shows tart blackberry and plum with cured tobacco leaf and sweet baking spice. You feel a rich buildup on the palate from what is a naturally concentrated vintage. I have adjusted the drinking window to be a bit shorter compared to past vintages.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli is a deep ruby red color and is dark with aromas of black licorice, sappy herbs, toasted cedar, black cherry, plum pit, turned earth, and cocoa. Full-bodied, it has a lovely, refined texture with a bit of gamey richness, ripe tannins, a plush, velvety texture, and a hearty but well-managed finish. It’s going to drink well over the next 12-15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDThis has a concentrated nose of blackberries, licorice and notes of espresso. The palate is medium- to full-bodied with supple tannins and red-fruit flavors complemented by cedar. Elegant Brunello. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2019 Vigna Paganelli Riserva opens with aromas reminiscent of resin, blue flower, pipe tobacco and a whiff recalling burnt rubber. Full-bodied and enveloping, the palate delivers ripe black plum, cherry extract, licorice and tobacco set against a backbone of velvety tannins. Abv: 15% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KO

A bright red color, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino was bottled in March of 2024 and will be released in March of 2025. The aromas are layered and complex with notes of red berries, cranberries, rosemary, orange peel, and black licorice that are constantly evolving in the glass as it opens. Medium-bodied and structured, but also elegant with a weightless feel, it has a long and savory finish. It feels as though it’s going to gain in intensity with more time in bottle. Drink 2027-2050.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDThe radiant Biondi Santi 2019 Brunello is a classic offering from the estate and follows the focus on elegance, energy and restraint that Franco Biondi Santi and his father and before him were both known for. It opens with enticing scents of violet, dog rose, wild berry and dark culinary spice that on the vibrant, focused palate segue into red cherry, pomegranate, licorice and black tea. Taut, refined tannins provide support while racy acidity keeps it balanced and lends tension. It’s still youthfully austere and shows great aging potential. Drink 2031–2044. Abv: 13.5%Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOThis wine will be released in March 2025. The Biondi-Santi 2019 Brunello di Montalcino was born in a generous vintage that provided abundant high-quality fruit. The growing season became progressively warmer throughout summer, without heat spikes, and it ended with well-timed rains and a warm autumn. Harvest started in mid-September, and the grapes ripened according to the right parameters without over-ripeness. The wine shows a natural textural richness that is supported by dark fruit, navel orange, tobacco, laurel leaf and Mediterranean herb. There are flinty mineral notes that add to the complexity. This beautiful wine hits a special mark: it offers the ethereal qualities you expect of this celebrated estate, with a good level of austerity to match.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino pulls the taster close to the glass, darkly floral and balsamic at the first tilt. This blossoms with a textbook profile of worn leather, dried rose, dusty earth, spice and dried black cherry. It sweeps across the palate, silky-smooth with hints of ripe red and black fruit underscored by saline mineral tones that add a crunchy yet salty sensation toward the close. It finishes with tremendous length and concentration, lifted by a tinge of sour citrus. Fine-grained tannins resonate under an air of sweet lavender. The 2019 is classic to the core. With this level of depth coming from the anatta, one can only imagine what the riserva will reveal.Vinous Media | 97 VMSurely one of the wines of the vintage, Biondi-Santi 2019 is balletic and dynamic, opening with a waft of balsamic herbs suffused with tobacco, black tea and blood orange. Bright, confident acidity underlines stony mid-palate sapidity and shy glimpses of gorgeous black cherry and blood orange. Vertically built with very fine, cashmere tannins, the balance and energy is nothing short of majestic. An interesting fact as stated by winemaker Federico Radi: in its long history, Biondi-Santi has only made wines over 14% abv four times.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECVery perfumed and fragrant with sweet berries and fresh roses that follow through to a medium body with pretty depth of fruit and balance. Racy and driven, there’s a lot going on in the center-palate. The legend lives. Give this a few years to open, but already impressive. Best after 2027.James Suckling | 97 JSThis red feels open and juicy at first, with a vein of cherry, strawberry and floral flavors, before the firm edge of stiff tannins emerges. The underlying mineral element takes a little time to reveal itself but then defines the extended aftertaste. Best from 2028 through 2048.Wine Spectator | 94 WS