Rare Italians

wines

Combining power, intensity, class and great fruit, Produttori’s 2019 Montestefano Riserva is a phenomenal wine and a quintessential expression of this fantastic cru. It opens with heady aromas of new leather, Alpine herb, pressed rose, ripe dark-skinned berry and forest floor. It has the most Barolo-like structure of all the firm’s crus, delivering ripe Morello cherry, succulent raspberry, licorice and tobacco alongside a network of firm tannins that are more reminiscent of Serralunga than Barbaresco. A magnificent wine, with incredible aging potential. Drink 2031–2049. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 99 KOThe 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is perhaps the most complete of the 2019 Riservas at this stage. It offers fine depth, plenty of tannin and nascent emerging inner sweetness to tie it all together. A wine of stature and textural depth, the Montestefano is my early favorite in this lineup.Vinous Media | 95 VM

he 2019 Ovello Riserva is succulent and enveloping, offering scents of dark-skinned berry, forest floor, violet and new leather. Full-bodied with impressive structure and fruit, it boasts ripe raspberry, black cherry and licorice supported by firm, close-grained tannins that provide the backbone. Fresh acidity keeps it well balanced. Drink 2029–2044. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is powerful, savory and intensely linear, in classico Ovello style, and yet it appears to have enough fruit behind its imposing tannins to develop well over the coming years. In this tasting, the Ovello feels pretty closed post bottling, but its inherent balance and qualities are there. Clean saline notes extend the finish in promising fashion.Vinous Media | 94 VM

Balsamic aromas of camphor mingle with pressed rose, wild berry, new leather and dark spice. Showing intensity and structure, the full-bodied, delicious palate boasts a weightless concentration, delivering fleshy raspberry, blood orange, almond liqueur and licorice alongside tightly woven, velvety tannins. Fresh acidity lifts the rich flavors and provides great balance. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOThe 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà is redolent of dark fruit, crushed rocks, graphite, sage, menthol and lavender all race across the palate, supported by bracing, young Rabajà tannins that make themselves felt. This mid-weight, powerhouse Barbaresco packs quite a punch.Vinous Media | 94 VM

This wine kisses the sky with fruit from bush-trained vines planted in 2012 at the highest point of the appellation (above 600 meters in elevation). This is a wine to watch in the future, especially as these vines grow older. The Le Ragnaie 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Passo del Lume Spento has a fine and direct bouquet with vibrant red fruit, cranberry, pressed rose and rosemary blossom. Fruit and floral components run very strong, and you don’t get as much of the earthiness that we find in the other wines. Instead, it feels mineral and salty. Crunchy fruit and powdery tannins fuel a very long and polished finish with a contained 13.5% alcohol content. This wine is fluid and more of a shape-shifter. Only 4,400 bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPTo close out the single vineyard wines, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Passo Del Lume Spento takes a youthful red/garnet-tinged color and, as with the rest of the wines of this vintage from Le Ragnaie, has a signature stamp of incredible perfume lifting from the glass out of the gate, with notes fresh Mediterranean herbs, ripe cherries, anise, and crushed rose petals. Ripe citrus-toned fruit fills the palate of this medium-bodied Brunello, which has great mouthwatering acidity that floats through the sides of the palate, angular tannins, and a mineral-toned finish. It’s packed with tension, though, and is deserving of another year or two of cellaring before drinking 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Passo del Lume Spento opens with a mentholated freshness, as crushed stone and minty herbs complicate dusty dried strawberries. This is juicy in character and wickedly fresh, showing its minerality up front as a tart wave of wild berries descends upon the palate. It finishes with cheek-puckering tension, potent and primary, along with a coating of fine-grained tannins, all balanced by a bump of residual acidity. This is a spice bomb, yet it has the energy to balance. The Passo del Lume Spento hails from bush-trained vines planted in 2012 at 621 meters.Vinous Media | 94 VMCampinoti’s highest altitude single-vineyard bottling comes from a one-hectare plot planted in 2011 at a lofty 621 metres. The third release as a Brunello, it hits its stride with the 2019 vintage. While still reserved in aromas, this sings with inner mouth perfumes of white blossom and rose against a backdrop of sour red cherry and pomegranate. The mouth-cleansing tannins are linear, and brisk acidity whisks the wine across the palate. Slender but not bony, this has sufficient flesh to harmonise the structure. Really quite thrilling in its sinewy, chiselled personality.Decanter | 94 DEC

The character of this wine is more accessible and open-knit. The Le Ragnaie 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Petroso is less ethereal but more grounded, with an obvious delivery of fruit (and more primary intensity) framed by caramel, light tobacco leaf, redcurrant, cherry and wild plum. An herbal element comes forward too with white pepper and something fun that recalls cashew celery root. The mouthfeel veers toward chalky, and there is a hint of minerality with wet limestone or rose quartz. It shows managed tannins over mid-weight texture for a very elegant finish. These qualities give this 3,000-bottle release reasonable runway to age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe fourth vintage for this single vineyard, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Petroso takes a medium red color and has a gorgeous aromatic profile in its perfume of jasmine, dried cranberries, tangerine, and thyme. Displaying a Burgundian aesthetic, this medium-bodied Brunello has refined tannins, even, fresh acidity, and a delicate stony texture. It’s a beautiful wine that gently floats off the palate. With a wide drinking window, this is going to be one that’s hard to hold onto, but it will be worth cellaring. Drink 2024-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Petroso boasts a dark, rich, inviting blend of black raspberries, mint leaves and worn leather. Silky-smooth and elegant in feel, this easily flows across the palate, showcasing crisp red berry fruit enlivened by vibrant acidity. A wall of grippy tannins lingers as the 2019 tapers off primary and intense, promising many years of further development. I expect the Petroso to put on weight over time, which will complete this otherwise gorgeous wine. The potential here is incredibly high.Vinous Media | 95 VMFrom a 1 hectare, northwest facing plot, Petroso sits just below the Pietroso and Il Palazzone estates at an altitude of 500 metres. Surrounded by forests, it is a relatively cool site that was originally bottled as a cru Rosso. Compared to the cask sample I tried in 2022, the 2019 has shut down since bottling. The nose does show smoke, flint and pepper while the palate has just a suggestion of wild strawberry. With seemingly more structure than flesh at this point, tannins come across as slightly terse and austere. Another year or two in bottle will give a better indication of how it is resolving.Decanter | 92 DEC

The Pieve Santa Restituta 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille reveals a finely chiseled quality, with direct and lifted fruit, that gives this wine an angular or delineated personality. This impression is reinforced by delicate mineral notes of crushed stone that fold into dark fruit, sweet plum, black cherry and earthy iris root. The wine is elegant, but it also shows lots of umami or textural deliciousness thanks to the natural ripeness and concentration of the fruit. Give this wine more time in bottle.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPExtremely perfumed and intense with lilacs, violets, purple fruits and black cherries. Full-bodied and very structured with punchy tannins that give this great length and intensity. This is a great one for the cellar. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille is dark and youthfully inward, forcing the taster to work with its brooding blend of blackberries, sage and crushed stone. This displays textures of pure silk, polished and refined, with a dense textural wave of tart red and black fruits underscored by saline minerals and exotic spice. Orange notes add contrast through the close as this finishes tannic and long, with a pleasantly chewy sensation and angular tannins that pinch the cheeks. The 2019 is a dark stallion of a Brunello, all muscle and meat, that will take many years of cellaring to show its best. That said, it will be worth the wait.Vinous Media | 96 VMBalsamic aromas of camphor mingle with new leather, cedar, blue flower and underbrush on the brooding 2019 Sugarille. Showing more structure than the Rennina but still endowed with the firm’s hallmark of elegance, it delivers ripe black cherry, blood orange licorice and tobacco framed in tightly-woven, close grained tannins that give it a velvety texture. Drink 2039–2044. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOTo complete Angelo Gaja’s comparison with his Langhe wines, he likens Sugarille to Barolo (as opposed to the Rennina, which he equates with Barbaresco). Powerfully constructed, this will appeal to drinkers seeking a vigorous style of Brunello. Sweet oak spice and plum take on earthy forest undertones. It’s ample and expansive in fruit, yet austere and tight in structure: dark cherry and plum hang off steely, vertical grape tannins. Thicker wood tannins build through the core but crisp acidity offsets the dense structure, and medicinal herbs are tucked into its layers. This becomes increasingly firmer as it sits in the glass, and will need a whole lot of time.Decanter | 95 DEC

This is a classic beauty. The 2019 d’Alceo, made with 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Petit Verdot, is dark and enriched, but magically, it is never heavy or bulky. It carries its weight with feather-like grace backed by dry tannins and lovely fruit layering. There is blackcurrant, kirsch, blackberry liqueur, exotic spice, black rose and crushed stone. That mineral note stands out like a filigree of shiny silver stitched through the wine’s rich, velvety texture. Production is 13,749 bottles and 200 magnums.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPRampolla’s 2019 D’Alceo is creamy and resonant in the glass. Inky dark fruit, lavender, blackberry and spice all meld together in a wine that combines power and elegance. Seamless tannins extend the finish effortlessly. In many vintages, D’Alceo is a powerhouse. The 2019 is sublime.Vinous Media | 97 VMBlackcurrants, fresh flowers, and blue berries with sandalwood. Medium-bodied with very fine tannins and a fresh finish. Very fine, focused and bright. Cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot. Best after 2025.James Suckling | 95 JS

Very attractive combination of dried fruit and spices with black cherries and plums. Aromas of flowers and sandalwood, too. Full-bodied and very refined, yet intense, with plush, velvety tannins that are wonderfully integrated and intertwined with the fruit. Ripe center palate. Tight at the end, suggesting the need for some serious bottle age. Very structured. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 20th anniversary bottling of Testamatta made, from the 2019 vintage, in brand new winemaking facilities in Florence. This just shines from the moment it’s poured. Layered and complex this is a gem of a wine filled with cherry, raspberry, damson and caramel notes alongside a savoury edge that makes it so moreish. Tannins that support but don’t overwhelm give a nice overall weight to the palate while the flavous linger on the long finish. Made from old vines on stony soils on the Tuscan hilltops. Grapes are selected and sourced from the best five vineyards, which are divided into parcels and harvested up to eight times. Fermentation is in open-top barriques for the smaller parcels and in barrels or stainless steel for the larger ones without any temperature controls. Maceration for 7-10 days then moved into old barriques for 20 months.Decanter | 96 DECA pure expression of Sangiovese, the Bibi Graetz 2019 Testamatta is a wine in constant evolution. Bibi has added 17 more hectares of vineyard to the program, with 12 hectares in Fiesole (north of Florence) and 5 hectares in San Donato in Colle (south of Florence) with 70-year-old vines. The base of the wine sees fruit from old vines planted in the 1950s in the cool-climate Lamole subzone of Chianti Classico. These new terroirs bring a lot more aromatic nuance and complexity to the wine with perfumed blue flower, candied orange peel, wet earth and plumy black fruit. White Alberese soils add a strong chalky mineral signature to the finish of this elegantly streamlined and linear Tuscan red.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPDelicate aromas of red berry, sunbaked earth and dark spice shape the nose along with a whiff of Mediterranean scrub. Bright and elegantly structured, the linear palate features juicy Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry and baking spice framed in polished tannins. Drink through 2029.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEA sleek, well-delineated red, delivering cherry and raspberry flavors on an elegant frame. Fresh, and builds nicely on the mineral- and floral-laced finish. Drink now through 2028. 10,000 cases made, 2,500 cases imported. Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Sassicaia 2019 spent 25 months in oak (one-third new). ‘We are going longer in oak in the past few years,’ said Carlo Paoli, managing director of Tenuta San Guido. Quite pale in the glass, the nose is extremely graceful and intense with a lavender note enhanced by restrained bramble fruits, fermented citrus peel, an intense violet aroma and graphite minerality in depth. The attack is soft and full, the flavor savoury and cedary through to the finish, with integrated velvety tannins and lifted acidity. A perfectly woven structure is bound with signature freshness and fruit vibrancy, making this one for the long haul. Drinking Window 2022 - 2050Decanter | 100 DECThis 2019 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia is really very special. A subtle change has occurred and the typically aristocratic and elegant finesse of Sassicaia now has a little more joie de vivre. It is intense and deeply concentrated without being heavy and with very fine, beautifully integrated tannins that harmonize with the body of the wine. Carlo Paoli, MD and head of winemaking, views 2019 as “one of the great vintages of the last decades. Although it was not generous in quantity (about 15% less than in 2016), for the quality of the grapes… it is to be considered exceptional.” The winemaking team are at their peak in terms of understanding and managing the vineyards and the more extreme vintage variations they face due to climate change... The 2019 reminds me a lot of the sublime 2016 but somehow it is bolder with even more energy, vivacity, and exuberance. Drink from 2024-2050.The Wine Independent | 100 TWIThe 2019 Sassicaia is a thing of beauty. It showcases everything you would expect from this iconic wine, balance, precision and gorgeous fruit character are all on display. It begins with expressive aromatics of dark cherries and blackberries…. On the palate this is even more impressive, as it shows a remarkable combination of elegance and finesse, alongside a richly textured mouthfeel that is backed by beautiful ripe fruit. Pure and expressive, this goes on to show a wonderful sense of freshness that builds all the way through the long, persistent finish. This has it all and it is a simply thrilling release which offers plenty of upfront appeal, but will also thrive for decades in the cellar. I love what this vintage has to offer at this early stage and would expect the 2019 to ultimately be mentioned in conversation with some of the greatest vintages of Sassicaia ever. International Wine Report | 100 IWRThe purity of cabernet sauvignon fruit is exceptional here, with character and sensibility that’s reminiscent of some of the great Sassicaias from the 1980s, such as 1982 or 1988. But this is much more precise and clean. Aromas and flavors of currants and berries with cedar and earth. Sage and minty character, too. It’s full-bodied yet there’s so much polish and balance, together with structure, elegance, and refinement. Hard not to drink at this stage, yet give it time and respect. This will be a classic Sass and reminds me why I love this wine. Try after 2026.James Suckling | 99 JSEnticing aromas of blue flower, cassis, camphor and spice are front and center in this stunning red. The lithe, savory palate features black currant, red plum and star anise while tobacco notes linger on the long finish. Elegant, polished tannins and bright acidity keep it beautifully balanced and focused. Drink 2025–2044.Wine Enthusiast | 99 WEThe latest release from Tenuta San Guido is the 2019 Bolgheri Sassicaia. The bouquet is up front and very expressive from the get-go. It offers a generous display of crunchy, dark cherry that hints at the extra concentration and fruit weight obtained in the 2019 growing season. This vintage will be remembered for the crisp richness of the fruit and its important textural imprint. It also shows fine elegance, bordering on the ethereal, with berry aromas, tarry earth and brushes of balsam herb or grilled rosemary. Sassicaia always shows an almost-glossy finely knit quality to the polished mouthfeel, and I find it again here next to fresh acidity and firm tannins. Mouthfeel in 2019 is the wine’s strongest suit. The 2019 is one of the prettiest and most balanced editions of Sassicaia we’ve seen this past decade, along with the back-to-back duo of 2016 and 2015. The 2019 marries the precision of the 2016 with the rich fruit weight of the 2015.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPSupple and beautifully defined, with black cherry, black currant and blackberry fruit augmented by tobacco, iron and thyme. Firmly structured, tightening up as this lingers with an aftertaste of dark fruit, graphite and spice. Shows a sense of elegance as well as power and intensity. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2024Wine Spectator | 98 WSThe 2019 Sassicaia is restrained and also a bit reticent in its first impression. Rose petal, dried herbs, blood orange, mint, sweet pipe tobacco and cinnamon give the 2019 striking aromatic presence. The 2019 is a mid-weight, very classic feeling Sassicaia that is going to need a number of years to open. There’s good fruit depth, but the tannins are not as polished as they usually are. That could be a result of lingering stress from frost that year or recent bottling. The 2019 saw 18-20 days on the skins with natural ferments. Malos followed in tank. Aging was 25 months in barrel (1/3rd new), a longer elevage than normal. The 2019 shows beautifully with a few hours of aeration, so I am optimistic for the future. Let’s see what happens. Antonio Galloni | 94+ AG

Gaja’s 2019 Barbaresco was bottled only a few days before this tasting but it already has sweet roses and red fruits on the nose with very subtle, gentle spice notes. It has a great texture and flows gracefully across the palate. It feels very harmonious with plenty of refreshing acidity and finely integrated tannins. Sublimely elegant with a fine, silt-like texture to the tannins, it is poised, beautifully understated and charming. Keep for 2 years and drink for up to 20 plus.The Wine Independent | 97 TWIHeady aromas of rose, violet, forest berry and a whiff of oak-driven spice shape the nose. Smooth and full-bodied, the elegantly structured palate delivers crushed raspberry, licorice and coffee bean set against taut, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2025–2034.Kerin O’Keefe July 2022 | 96 KO(Gaja Barbaresco Red) Gaja’s 2019 Barbaresco is gorgeous. Bright and nervy, with fabulous balance, the 2019 captures all the best this tricky vintage had to offer. Gaja did not bottle any other Barbaresco crus, opting to use the best lots for this bottling. That decision paid off in a 2019 that sizzles with tension. The aromatics alone are captivating. Bright acids lend vibrancy to a core of beautifully delineated Nebbiolo fruit. I can’t wait to see how this ages. (Drink between 2025-2039)Antonio Galloni | 93+ AG

Very attractive aromas of currants, spices and sweet tobacco with some graphite and slate. Full-bodied with a rich and rather dense mouth feel, plenty of fruit and a spicy, dark-chocolate aftertaste. A solid and sturdy second wine from Masseto. Try in 2023.James Suckling | 95 JSNo written review provided | 95 W&SThe 2019 Massetino is fabulous once again in 2019. The estate has really hit on to something with their second wine. Inky dark fruit, mocha, chocolate, lavender, pencil shavings, licorice and espresso all meld together in the glass. Massetino has all the richness of the Grand Vin, but less heft, which makes it more approachable. The 2019 is a rich wine, with 15.5% alcohol, but that is not especially evident.Antonio Galloni | 94 AGThis is only the third vintage of Masseto’s second wine, which shares the same pedigree as its sibling, and the second time it is being released on the Place after the 2018 debuted last year. The first time Cabernet Franc is used in the blend, which is completed by 94% Merlot, this has a lovely ripe quality to it with florality coming from the Cabernet. There are some serious tannins on the palate, with a touch of heat, spicy new oak and liquorice coming through the blackcurrant and berry fruit. Opulent and rich but balanced with fresh acidity. Malolactic fermentation takes place in barrel, with 50% new oak. After the first 12 month of aging the wine is blended and put back into barrels for a further three months before bottling. Drinking Window 2025 - 2038.Decanter | 94 DECTasted before bottling, the 2019 Massetino is shaping up beautifully. This is the third vintage made of the Merlot-based wine enhanced with a small part of Cabernet Franc. The Cabernet Franc is what distinguishes this euphemistically diminutive expression of Masseto, and it is its distinctive vinous signature. The 2019 vintage is soft and pliant but also incredibly rich and layered. It offers generous black fruit with ripe cherry and blackberry. Spice, tobacco and campfire ash fill in the rear and build the aromatic profile of this wine that is already stacked tall and proud. We still need to see how the 2019 plays out in the bottle, and I am especially interested to gauge how the thick and rich fruit concentration works against the less pronounced acidity of the vintage.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94-96 RPHere's a plush, opulent, in-your-face kind of red, without being over the top. Toasty blackberry, black cherry and plum aromas and flavors ply the center, graced by leather, earth and tobacco accents. Dense, yet finishes long and light on its feet. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2023 through 2033. 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

This is a gorgeous vintage that continues to flesh out beautifully. I added an extra point to my score since the last time I tasted the 2019 Bolgheri Rosso Camarcanda in order to underline the great potential of this vintage. This wine could legally be a Bolgheri Superiore, but Angelo Gaja prefers not to use qualifying wine terms such as Superiore, Classico or Riserva in his various wine projects spanning from Piedmont to Tuscany to Etna. Semantics aside, this is a gorgeous wine—one of the best made at Ca’ Marcanda for sure—with impressive intensity and balance. Dark fruit and blackberry are contrasted against spice, tobacco, grilled rosemary and Mediterranean bramble. The 2019 vintage saw favorable weather conditions and "just the right amount of rain," Gaja says.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPCa’ Marcanda is officially a Bolgheri DOC, not a Superiore, but it is handled as if it were the latter. The blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc (there has been no Merlot since 2015) - a small percentage whole-bunch - is aged in oak (10% new) for 18 months. Volume and vibrancy distinguishes this 2019. It’s super-floral on the nose, with a graceful violet aroma, restrained cassis, a smorgasbord of Mediterranean herbs, the leafy eucalyptus typical of Bolgheri, and savoury chocolate and tobacco. The attack is full, with refined crunchy tannins and brilliant acidity. An enticing wine worth waiting for. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2035Decanter | 96 DECThis verges on thick yet remains balanced and vibrant, courtesy of the lively acidity. Boasts blackberry, dark plum and blueberry flavors framed by tar and toasty oak. The finish is both dense and clean, with a hint of licorice. Excellent length and potential. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2024 through 2038. 1,500 cases made, 225 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSA very beautiful young red with blackcurrant, fresh herb and hints of cedar and smoke. It’s full-bodied yet very polished and refined with a lovely texture. Extremely long and graceful. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2019 Camarcanda is a very good example of how much the wines have changed here. Medium in body with good depth, the 2019 Camarcanda is a tightly wound wine that is going to need a number of years to be at its best. Dark cherry, mocha, new leather, licorice and spice build nicely, with pretty floral and mineral accents that liven up the finish. The 2019 is classy, elegant and polished. Give it a few years, as the tannins are pretty intense today, but this softens nicely with air.Antonio Galloni | 94+ AG

Perfumed, composed and agile with notes of cherries, wild strawberries, white pepper, frozen raspberries, dried flowers and some stones. Full-bodied with fine, chalky tannins and crisp acidity. Bright and vertical with controlled power throughout. Textural and subtle. Great tension and energy on the mid-palate and onto the long, focused finish. From organically grown grapes. Vegan. Try after 2030.James Suckling | 96 JSThe Vietti 2020 Barolo Ravera offers dark fruit, cherry and blackcurrant enhanced by soft spice. You also get a sun-kissed note of eggplant, tomato leaf and ferrous earth. Ravera displays strong lines with good acidity and firm tannic backbone. It closes dry and ages in large oak botte only. This is one of the most eyeballed MGAs sites. Ravera, with its open mountain skyline and cool temperatures, is seen as one of the best sites in the appellation, especially as the climate changes. This vintage produced exactly 10,026 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPPicked on October 9 and 10, the 2020 Barolo Ravera has plenty of Ravera classicism and tension, but also feels a bit light in the mid-palate. Ravera is never a huge wine in body, but the depth is often there, even if expressed in an understated and more linear manner. The 2020 lacks that depth. Red-toned fruit, blood orange, mint, spice and white pepper lend brilliance throughout.Vinous Media | 94 VM

The 2020 Percarlo is a wine of nearly indescribable finesse and nuance. All the elements are so well balanced. In 2020, Percarlo is wonderfully understated, with mind-blowing balance and barely no perception of tannin. I don’t remember ever tasting a Percarlo with this much linear energy, tension and focus. The clean, mineral-drenched finish is unforgettable. The 2020 is, quite simply, spectacular.Vinous Media | 100 VMThe organic San Giusto a Rentennano 2020 Percarlo is born in a vintage of power, concentration and dark fruit flavors. All of these elements are delivered here, and as always, the wine shows impeccable Sangiovese balance with a spotlight on primary fruit, integrated tannins and bright acidity. The alcohol is high at 15%. In fact, the wine tastes young, and that’s not something you can say of most of the other releases from the 2020 vintage. This expression, however, still holds back just a bit and consequently promises an excellent cellar-aging evolution.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RP

Showing elegance, structure, concentration and great depth, the 2020 Brovia Vigna Cà Mia is magnificent, starting with its enticing fragrance of rose, camphor and pipe tobacco. Reflecting the fruit richness of the vintage and the balance and body the site is celebrated for, the delicious palate unleashes fleshy cherry and crushed raspberry before closing on truffle and licorice notes. A backbone of enveloping fine-grained tannins lends structure and a velvety texture. Drink 2028–2038. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOThe 2020 Barolo Brea Vigna Ca’ Mia expresses all the magic of this Serralunga site. Wild herbs, menthol, licorice, incense, crushed flowers, mint and sage all run through a deep, layered Barolo that hits all the right notes. Here, too, the tannins feel remarkably polished for a young Barolo, especially one from Serralunga. Readers will have a hard time keeping their hands off of this. The 2020 has been totally alluring in several recent tastings.Vinous Media | 95 VMThis Barolo from the Brea cru is an elegant and captivating wine. High-toned aromas of tart red currants, pomegranate, and wild raspberries are complemented by subtle savory notes and a mix of clove, cinnamon, and nutmeg spices. The palate is fine, earthy, and beautifully balanced, with a precise structure and silky tannins that seamlessly integrate with the vibrant fruit flavors. The lasting, haunting finish leaves a memorable impression. Drink 2026-2045. Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEPale ruby, intensely floral with sweet violets, vibrant pomegranate fruit and beguiling eucalyptus and balsamic depth. The palate is soft, ripe and velvety, with elegant tannins, savory character, a medium body and long, refreshing acidity. Super tense and polished in the finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JS

The 2020 Brovia Garblèt Sue’ is fantastic, starting with its enticing aromas of blue flower, wild berry and spice. Full-bodied and delicious, it boasts a weightless concentration that wraps around juicy red cherry, raspberry compote, licorice and dark exotic spice. Velvety tannins lend a smooth texture while fresh acidity keeps it beautifully balanced. This is already accessible but will also offer years of pleasure. Drink 2027–2035. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOThe nose offers intriguing notes of graphite, earth, wild herbs, and a hint of tart cherry. The palate is round and generous, bursting with succulent blackberries, juicy plums, and a touch of raspberry, balanced by earthy, tea-like tannins. Classic-driven yet sumptuous, this harmonious and expressive wine is truly lifted, showcasing the unique terroir and the winemaker’s skill in capturing the essence of this cru and this vintage. Drink Now - 2045Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEThe 2020 Barolo Garblèt Sue’ is a very pleasant, almost shockingly open young Barolo for this site. Wild flowers, crushed rose petal, anise, mint, spice and blood orange are all beautifully amplified. The Garblèt Sue’ is usually marked by incisive, forbidding tannins, but in 2020 it is pure sensuality. High-toned floral overtones grace the exotic finish. I imagine the 2020 will drink beautifully right out of the gate.Vinous Media | 94 VMExtremely pale ruby, with pungent fresh violet and pomegranate aromas highlighted by cocoa powder and licorice nuances. The palate is delicate and soft, with ripe tannins, refreshing acidity and tension in the chewy and precise finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2029.James Suckling | 94 JS

The 2020 Rocche di Castiglione from Brovia is gorgeous. Embodying the finesse the site is celebrated for, it boasts enticing scents of wild rose, iris, perfumed berry and botanical herb. Sleek and elegant, the smooth palate offers juicy red cherry, crushed strawberry and star anise set against lithe, refined tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it well balanced. Reflecting the forward nature of the vintage, this is already closing in on the start of its drinking window but will offer years of pleasure. Drink 2025–2035. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe 2020 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione is a sexy, racy wine. Pliant and deep, the 2020 is a great example of this site. Soft contours wrap around a core of dark red fruit, kirsch, spice, menthol, new leather and licorice. Time in the glass brings out the wine’s stunning inner perfume, that most Rocche of signatures. Deep and layered, with exceptional balance, the 2020 is a striking, captivating wine that captures the best the vintage had to offer.Vinous Media | 95 VMFloral bouquet of fresh roses and violets, plus bright red cherries and red currants with balsamic depth. This sample is full of sucrosity, with silky, graceful tannins and refreshing lifted acidity. Medium-bodied and tense in the finish. Delicious Barolo to drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSA lively and vibrant Barolo that captivates from the first sip! The nose bursts with fresh, tart raspberries and tangy wild strawberries. The palate reveals a concentrated core of tart cherries, cranberries, and redcurrants, complemented by dried rose petals and wild herbs. Refined tannins and lively acidity provide perfect structure to this thoughtful, nuanced, and truly remarkable wine. Drink 2026 - 2045 Wine Enthusiast | 94 WE

Showing great class and precision, Brovia’s fragrant 2020 Villero is a chiseled beauty. Taut and focused, the palate features crushed strawberry, pomegranate and blood orange accented with licorice and pink peppercorn before an almost salty close. A backbone of refined tannins provides firm support. It needs a few more years to fully develop and shows good aging potential for this rather forward vintage. Drink 2029–2036. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOA Villero masterpiece that demands your full attention. The fruit profile is a symphony of classic Nebbiolo notes, with ripe cherries, plums, and a hint of blackberry that’ll make your taste buds sing. The tannins? They’re so fine, they’re like silk threads woven into the fabric of the wine. But don’t be fooled by the elegance – this Barolo has a structure that’ll make you sit up straight and take notice. Savory flavors dance in perfect harmony with the fruit, creating a mesmerizing balance that’ll leave you speechless. This is a wine that’s not just exquisite – it’s unforgettable. Drink 2026 - 2050 Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEWhat a minty nose, elegant, fresh and vibrant, with classic dried cherry fruit, violets, minerals and notes of balsamic. Youthful palate with velvety tannins, crisp acidity, a medium body and a long, savory finish. This young Barolo is intended for the long haul. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSBrovia’s 2020 Barolo Villero is a potent, savory wine. Dried herbs, menthol, licorice, wildflowers, spice and dark-toned fruit give the Villero its distinctive personality. Broad swaths of tannin wrap it all together. Dark and brooding, the 2020 is not ready to reveal its charms. All this needs is time—I can’t wait to taste it in another few years. As is often the case, the Villero is Barolo that emphasizes savory/earthy/mineral notes more than overt fruit.Vinous Media | 94+ VM

The 2020 Sassicaia is a bold, rapturous wine. Dark, fleshy and expansive on the palate, the 2020 offers up scents of blackberry jam, gravel, spice, new leather, licorice and crème de cassis. Potent tannins are nearly buried by the sheer intensity of the fruit. Sassicaia is never a huge wine, the 2020 does seem to have an extra dimension of textural intensity. It’s an intensity that is hugely appealing.Vinous Media | 97 VMFrosts damaged the the earlier-developing Cabernet Franc in late March, leading to reduced production but superb quality fruit. Spring was mild and summer was generally warm, but a rapid acceleration of maturation in late summer forced the team to begin picking in the first week of September to avoid any overripeness. A traditional 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc blend, its blackcurranty, dusty, leafy and cedary character is brought into focus by an intense and balsamic palate. It’s poised and light on its feet with super-fresh acidity and a fine-grained, almost imperceptible tannic structure. Ripe and tangy raspberry and blueberry fruits linger on the mid-palate, leading to a long, fresh finish with some cream and chocolate notes. This will reward cellaring into the 2050s, yet you’ll get plenty of pleasure from it in its youth. ’We advise to keep it at least 10 months in the bottle before opening,’ states third-generation Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta.Decanter | 97 DECA very perfumed Sassicaia on the nose with forest floor, citrus and deep dark fruits. Blackcurrants. Cedar and black tea. Some balsamic. Pine needles. Full and very succulent. Really long, structured and complete. Tangy and energetic with a linear line of fresh tannins and acidity. Very Sassicaia throughout. 85% cabernet sauvignon and the rest is cabernet franc. Very attractive now in a youthful and vibrant way, but this will be better in three to four years. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 97 JSThe Tenuta San Guido 2020 Bolgheri Sassicaia speaks to those who seek a more voluptuous, opulent and, ultimately, more accessible wine. This vintage is a precise reflection of Coastal Tuscany, as opposed to a more generic "Tuscan" wine from elsewhere in this large central Italian region. You taste the ripeness and soft fruit weight that comes from a coastal appellation with especially bright luminosity and warm Mediterranean offshore breezes. Sassicaia from the cool vintages is a famously reticent or withholding wine in its earliest years, requiring a long lead time before it eases into an ideal drinking window. That’s definitely not the case here. This wine is beautiful and compelling straight out of the gate, showing a lovely mix of dark fruit, oak spice, balanced freshness, textural richness, soft tannins and an expertly contained 14% alcohol content. The wine’s immediate character is what distinguishes this vintage, and I wouldn’t get too fussed by exaggerated cellar-aging ambitions. The wine awards sheer pleasure in its current form, with dazzling primary fruit and soaring intensity over the near and medium term.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RP

Bright and lively on the palate, such beautifully expressed raspberry and red cherry fruit flavours alongside high-shining acidity that is so clean and precise. A supremely joyful expression with hints of caramelised strawberries and fresh mint. So sharp but so well defined with a clarity to the palate that is gorgeous. Really delivers a sophisticated, charming, characterful wine that is balanced, easy to enjoy with plenty of life. A more structured and perhaps harder to understand wine than Testamatta this year, but both have their own lovely personalities. This is so complete and abundant, muscular but controlled and full of complexity and detail - there’s weight and density without heaviness. A sensational wine. Ageing 12 months in 500l French oak barrels.Decanter | 98 DECThe subtlety and perfumed nature of this wine is enchanting, offering flowers, orange peel and cherries. Wonderful ripe strawberries, too. Full-bodied, but not over the top, with tannins that are polished and run the length of the wine. It’s tight, but gives you every indication of a terrific wine. You want to drink it now, and you probably should do, because it’s so alluring. Yet it will age beautifully as well. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 98 JSThe Bibi Graetz 2020 Colore is a pure expression of Sangiovese all sourced from old vines that are carefully selected in various parts of Tuscany. Much of the fruit comes from a high elevation and cool site in Lamole, or from 70-year-old vines in Bagno a Ripoli or Vincigliata near Fiesole. A small percentage of old vines in Olmo is also used. Bibi has a preference for old vines, and you can taste the lovely depth and complexity that comes through in the Colore. Compared to his other wine Testamatta, this wine has seen fewer stylistic changes over the years, and the goal has always been elegance and finesse. Colore boasts a pretty luminous quality with dark fruit aromas and wild berry. There are hints of licorice and mint as well. Mineral flavors and bright acidity are what set Colore apart.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2020 Bibi Graetz Colore has beautiful, appetising aromas of savory wild herbs, wild-flowers and Mediterranean shrub with a light peppery note and on standing there is an aroma of strawberries warmed in the sun. The palate is round and soft, then mouth-wateringly fresh, then it finishes with savory, salty tannins. What I love is that the flavours are clearly delineated and remind me of Sangiovese and the Tuscan landscape with bitter cherry, light sea salt, iron tonic and wild herb notes. The flavors are quite fragile but persistent, the texture is fine and silky and there is a lot of savory, mineral tension in this wine.The Wine Independent | 96 TWIThe 2020 Colore is spiced and pure, with vibrant ripe cherry, cinnamon, and cedar. There is elegance and ripeness within its medium frame, revealing notes of wild raspberry, dried herbs, and orange zest. There is another level of refinement from the Testamatta that will continue to improve over the coming 15-20 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDThe 2020 Colore is pleasantly unexpected and is a total feminine beauty. When I anticipate power, it delivers grace with a stunning bouquet of freshly cut roses, blood orange, wild strawberries and sweet smoke. It’s deeply textural, yet not heavy, feeling like crushed velvet gently draped across the palate, leaving mineral-tinged blackberries and currants in its wake. This finishes on a note of elegance with fine-grained tannins without slowing its momentum as spice notes slowly fade. The Colore is all old-vine (70 years or older) Sangiovese from vineyards Lamole, Vincigliata, Olmo and Siena.Vinous Media | 94 VMCherries, strawberries, raspberries, seaweed and soy sauce mingle with the scent of freshly paved road, gun flint and pencil on the nose of this wine. It offers a very cherry palate, with wet stone, white pepper, rose petal and chocolate-covered orange slice. A bright and lively wine, it balances structure with playfulness, and delivers fruit that is mouthfilling without turning velvety.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEThis red reveals a mix of earth, cherry and wild herb flavors that ride a bright, fleshy profile. Features a juicy midpalate, with vibrant structure and well-integrated tannins. The finish firms up, where cherry and spice notes linger. Sangiovese. Best from 2024 through 2035. 200 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Very attractive nose with ripe blackcurrants, spiced chocolate, grilled thyme, hazelnuts and bacon. Notes of tobacco and cedar, too. Full-bodied, so refined and polished with layers of finely chiselled tannins spread evenly across the wine and beautifully integrated. Blooming fruit with spicy herbs, peppermint and violets. Very long and persistent with a steady, mineral sensation in the finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 98 JSWhile there are subtle secondary notes present, this remains largely primary and still quite fresh with mostly red berry fruit that is cut with nuances of earth, roasted cherry and stone hints. There is moderate austerity to the relatively precise and energetic medium-bodied flavors that are presently somewhat lean and while not hard, it’s clear that this is not yet ready for prime time drinking. Save for one recent bottle that was hard to the point of being unpleasant, I have had consistent notes.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2020 Biserno is one of the best wines I can remember tasting here. Rich yet vibrant, the 2020 presents a much more restrained style than was once the norm. There is still plenty of intensity, but energy and vibrancy have replaced volume as signatures. Espresso, menthol, licorice, cloves and leather are some of the many notes that build in this powerful, elegant Maremma red. Gorgeous Franc aromatics open the finish effortlessly.Vinous Media | 96 VMSmells wild - herbal and gorgeously floral on the nose with ripe black, bramble fruit aromas. Round and supple, fully flavoured and textured with just fleshy tannins that also have a cool, mineral chalky edge giving some minerality to the palate and freshness offsetting the ripe, sweet black and blue fruit. I like the lingering powdery element and this has a certain sharp, sophistication - cool blue fruits, cola, vanilla, cedar and toast. I’d be hard pushed to put it in Tuscany though, it does smell and taste more like old-school Bordeaux or Californian wine. Massy, heavy, pushed with both oak and extraction. It has purity, but lacks the Tuscan charm that these wines can offer. Quality is there and this is enjoyable. 6% Petit Verdot completes the blend. Director Niccolo Marzichi Lenzi, winemaker Helena Lindberg.Decanter | 94 DECA powerful red, with a saline element underlining the black currant, blackberry, plum, leather, iron, herb and tobacco aromas and flavors. Reveals muscular tannins that shore up the finish, which has a lingering mix of fruit, herbs and spices. Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from 2026 through 2040. 25,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The 2021 Ornellaia captures all the magic of this sensational vintage on the Tuscan Coast. Rich, ample and expansive, with tremendous polish, the 2021 is pure class. Dark-toned fruit, mocha, espresso, licorice, plum and dried herbs abound. The tannins are present but also beautifully integrated, as is the French oak. There was a time not too long ago when young wines here needed years in bottle to drink well. That’s not at all the case with the 2021. The blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 7% Petit Verdot works so well. New oak was 70%.Vinous Media | 99 VMAromas of blackcurrants, iodine, crushed stone, hints of mint and sage. Blue fruits. Full-bodied with chewy tannins that open with air. It’s racy and very long. Very tannin driven and energetic with power and focus. Muscular and very toned. This is the best Ornellaia for the cellar in years. Try after 2030.James Suckling | 99 JSWhile the summer was hot and dry, with three months of drought, the vines’ roots were able to tap water reserves which had been topped up by rainfall the previous winter and spring. Despite the warm growing season, Ornellaia 2021 feels less dense and muscular than vintages of old, offering pretty floral and wild herb perfumes alongside ripe red and black fruit scents. It’s intense, fresh and vertical in character, with fine, ripe, round tannins that seem to be a trademark of the vintage – it’s a gorgeous, breezy iteration of the Bolgheri benchmark that is already drinking well. The blend is 53% Cabernet Sauvignon (up from 50% in 2020), 25% Merlot (down from 32%), 15% Cabernet Franc (up from 13%) and 7% Petit Verdot (up from 5%); a carefully considered response from the winemaking team to the increasingly warm summers in the region.Decanter | 97 DEC

The fresh herbs such as basil and thyme are attractive coupled with currants and blackberries on the nose. Full-bodied with lots of fruit and velvety tannins showing an opulence and Super Tuscan intensity. It needs three to five years to come together. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 97 JSDark nose, softly herbal and fragrant, touches of sunkissed ripe fruit - raisins, figs, plums and notes of jasmine and liquorice. Smooth and supple, this has life and energy. Round and intense, with some sweet ripe cherries and blackcurrants, this feels quite a serious wine, structured and with clear muscle on show but still showing refinement in the tannin finesse and overall weight on the palate. Streamlined and focussed with power underneath - reigned in right now but noticeable nonetheless. Nice touches of graphite. and cool blue fruits help offset the sweet ripeness which is evident but this manages to walk the line between the two.Decanter | 95 DECThis is fresh and well-defined by its bracing acidity, driving the black currant, blackberry, herb and spice flavors. Smooth and harmonious, with a line of chalky tannins on the finish, while the herb elements persist. Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from 2026 through 2037. 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

First made in 1971, this legendary Italian wine now celebrates its 50th birthday. Happy Birthday, Tignanello! The Marchesi Antinori 2021 Tignanello (made with 79% Sangiovese, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Cabernet Franc) pulls on all the heartstrings. To be released in May, the wine shows a quintessentially pretty taste profile with tart fruit flavors, redcurrant, tea leaf, heritage rose, crushed white pepper, licorice, nutmeg, clove and chopped mint. It opens slowly to reveal more richness and exuberance with time, becoming downright voluptuous and heady a short while later. The through line, however, remains the bright freshness and minerality of Sangiovese. Compared to the 2018 vintage (which I also loved), this vintage has more overall fruit weight and volume.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPThe 2021 Tignanello is every bit as impressive from bottle as it was from barrel and then just after bottling. Silky and polished, with exceptional finesse, the 2021 has all the pedigree to become a modern benchmark for Tignanello and Italian wine more broadly. Bright dark red fruit, blood orange, spice, cedar and sweet pipe tobacco all soar out of the gals, framed by a discreet touch of French oak that adds raciness. In some vintages, the elements are discernible. In 2021, it is the total harmony of the wine that makes the strongest and deepest impression. The 2021 spent 17 months in wood, three months in neutral oak during the malolactic fermentation and then 14 months (50% new) for the rest of its aging. Superb.Vinous Media | 98 VMLaced with pure cherry, strawberry, graphite and tobacco aromas and flavors, this red is beautifully supported by a backbone of vibrant acidity and taut, refined tannins. Everything is framed by vanilla and toasty oak in the best sense, revealing harmony, with a long, orange-tinged finish and, yes, even drinkability at this stage. Best to give this a few more years in the bottle. Best from 2027 through 2045. 11,083 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSThe currants and spices are very pretty, with some hazelnut undertones. Medium- to full-bodied with juicy tannins and a flavorful finish. Very structured for a Tignanello, with medium chewy tannins and a flavorful finish. Very polished and curated with a deft winemaking hand coming through. Needs three or four years to soften, but it’s all there.James Suckling | 96 JSTignanello is a southwest-facing 57-hectare vineyard on lime-rich soils in San Casciano Val di Pesa. The blend – predominantly Sangiovese with dashes of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc – has remained the same since 1982. Individually vinified in conical vats, with malo in oak barriques, the wines then age in mostly new French oak barrels plus a small percentage of Hungarian oak barrels, for few months before blending and further ageing; around 15 months in total. Ripe red and black berries and a herbal waft rise from the glass. Intense, grainy and vertical, it has impressive freshness of both acidity and dark fruits, with streaks of coffee and sous bois, and a sprinkling of peppery spice and dried herbs. The sapidity on the mid-palate combines with a soft, creamy chocolate and black fruit finish to create a deliciously approachable and gastronomic wine that will, of course, repay further ageing.Decanter | 95 DEC